Forum Index > Trip Reports > Kyes Peak 7/1-2/2011
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Jim Dockery
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Location: Lake Stevens
Jim Dockery
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PostThu Aug 04, 2011 9:45 pm 
As a birthday celebration I needed a solo photo expedition so I headed up Kyes Pk. after looking over at it from Columbia a few weeks ago. It was another little peak in my backyard I hadn't made it up yet, so I could mark one off the tick list, and camp near the summit for sunset and sunrise photos. The route description sounded pretty straight forward, with no technical difficulties, so bringing overnight gear along with my SLR and tripod wouldn't be a problem. I'd read Tom's great TR and loved his shot in the calendar, so that was another incentive.
Drive to trailhead
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Drive to trailhead
Kyes rt.
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Kyes rt.
Kyes rt. 2
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Kyes rt. 2
The drive over Jack's pass took longer than expected so I got a bit of a late start at 12:30, but since I was staying up there I didn't think it mattered much. The trail up to Virgin Lake is excellent. I hit continuous snow just below the lake. I couldn't find the blaze on a tree that is supposed to mark the start of the climber's trail up the ridge, but since there was so much snow I wouldn't be on it all that much anyway. Following the crest of the ridge to start is easiest, but then small cliffs force you right where the first steep sidehilling is encountered. It doesn't look like much of a slope from below, but the trees shade the snow, so it was quite hard and melted into moats around the trees and cliffs. In a couple spots I wished I had my crampons on (it would have been a pain to put them on and off again for the rocky dry sections), but lots of hard kicking and hooking my self-arrest grip into the snow got me up. I saw blue flagging marking the way periodically, but I'm not sure I followed the trail - I made use of many a veggy handhold to pull up and through steep trees. It all ended up taking much longer than I anticipated (esp. since I was solo I was careful and took my time). Sorry, but I don't have any pictures of this section since I had my SLR in my pack.
First good view of Kyes
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First good view of Kyes
I found some recent cramponed footsteps that I followed down the ridge and across the first snowfield, but then they descended when the route climbed back up another ridge and I never saw them again. A last little rock scramble off the ridge got me onto the final snow slopes (which were the easiest part of the route) up through the gap between The Shark's Fin and the summit ridge.
scramble down to final snow slopes
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scramble down to final snow slopes
I set up camp around 7:30, then decided to wait until the next day to tag the summit. While cooking dinner I got out my tripod and set up for a hopefully beautiful sunset, which didn't disappoint. I was hoping the forcasted clouds would cooperate to make for some nice color, and they put on a show for quite some time. I put on my telephoto to zoom in on the jagged peaks to the west that I had climbed, but never seen from this angle.
camp on Kyes
camp on Kyes
Looking up to Kyes summit from camp
Looking up to Kyes summit from camp
West from Kyes
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West from Kyes
I'd chow down a few mouthfuls of beef stew, get up to shoot a few pictures, sit back down to relax, then the light would change and I'd have to shoot some more. As the sun sunk through the layers of clouds I was treated to two sunsets.
North from Kyes
North from Kyes
First sunset pano from Kyes
First sunset pano from Kyes
Monte Cristo Sunset
Monte Cristo Sunset
sunset from Kyes
sunset from Kyes
Finally it was over and I could get some sleep, but I set my camera up next to my bivy sack so I could snap some star pictures when I woke up to pee.
North from Kyes at night
North from Kyes at night
Kyes at night
Kyes at night
I set my alarm, but never heard it, luckily I woke up at dawn anyway and got up for coffee and a beautiful sunrise.
Dawn on Kyes
Dawn on Kyes
Dawn on Vesper and Wilman's Pk.
Dawn on Vesper and Wilman's Pk.
Dawn to the NW
Dawn to the NW
Sunrise on Big Four
Sunrise on Big Four
Sunrise Panorama East from Kyes
Sunrise Panorama East from Kyes
It was nice not having to get going on a climb and just hang out eating breakfast watching the show.
Sunrise on Columbia Pk.
Sunrise on Columbia Pk.
Mt. Rainier
Mt. Rainier
Mt. Index
Mt. Index
Finally it was time to tag the summit. The last rock scramble looked very steep from camp, but was just as easy as advertised (3rd class).
Mt. Baker from Kyes summit
Mt. Baker from Kyes summit
I had just gotten my camera out when I heard a roar below me on the Pride Glacier and I looked down to see a big avalanche calve off and fall down an open area that had obviously been active this summer. A couple minutes later it let loose even bigger!
Once the snow softened it was time to head down. Descending the tricky steep snow on the lower ridge was almost as slow as the climb, then the trail did a number on my thighs (skiing doesn't get those muscles ready for that!). When I got to the car I was dismayed to find the battery dead. After waiting two hours I was lucky to get a jump from a couple of good Samaritans (mid week here I was thinking I might have to bivy and worry my wife). Turns out I'd bumped the parking light switch on the steering column when I reset my trip-ometer to check milage and didn't see they were on. Live and learn. Kyes is a great little peak with fantastic views, but too much up and down traversing and scrappy climber's trail to qualify as a classic. Conditions right now are interesting, be prepared for steep hard snow down in the trees.
North from Kyes
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North from Kyes

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Luc
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Joined: 05 Jul 2003
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Luc
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PostThu Aug 04, 2011 10:06 pm 
dang swell! nice window, I'll say!

GNGSTR
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Matt Lemke
High on the Outdoors



Joined: 15 Jul 2010
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Matt Lemke
High on the Outdoors
PostThu Aug 04, 2011 10:10 pm 
Great photos Jim...put mine to shame once again embarassedlaugh.gif

The Pacific coast to the Great Plains = my playground!!! SummitPost Profile See my website at: http://www.lemkeclimbs.com
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NikonHiker
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PostThu Aug 04, 2011 11:08 pm 
Great shots!

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iron
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iron
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PostThu Aug 04, 2011 11:53 pm 
great eye candy. nice shot of index

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puzzlr
Mid Fork Rocks



Joined: 13 Feb 2007
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puzzlr
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PostThu Aug 04, 2011 11:58 pm 
Great shots of the ice falling. Nice that you had the presence of mind to take pictures, not just watch it.

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GaliWalker
Have camera will use



Joined: 10 Dec 2007
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GaliWalker
Have camera will use
PostFri Aug 05, 2011 6:08 am 
I'm probably way in the minority, in that I'm not much of a panorama appreciator, but West from Kyes and First sunset pano from Kyes are very nice. In fact I can't envisage them being any better as non-panoramas. Great shots and an awesome spot! up.gif

'Gali'Walker => 'Mountain-pass' walker bobbi: "...don't you ever forget your camera!" Photography: flickr.com/photos/shahiddurrani
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Don
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Don
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PostFri Aug 05, 2011 7:08 am 
Beautiful images as always, Jim! I love the sunset pano as well, but also must give kudos to sunrise on Liberty - nice. Kyes offers a nice perspective, especially from a high camp below the summit.

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Stefan
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Stefan
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PostFri Aug 05, 2011 9:10 am 
nice shots of the ice falling!

Art is an adventure.
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jd_hiker
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PostFri Aug 05, 2011 2:42 pm 
Well done. Really like the shots of the avalanche and that you had the presense of mind to take the shots. I'd frame the sunrise pano.

I have 11 essentials, the 10 plus an extra camera battery. http://www.flickr.com/photos/jd_hiker/ http://jdhascup.wordpress.com http://jdhascup.500px.com
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Jim Dockery
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Joined: 12 Sep 2007
Posts: 3092 | TRs | Pics
Location: Lake Stevens
Jim Dockery
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PostSat Aug 06, 2011 6:51 pm 
Thanks for the comments guys, I'm pretty happy with how the pics are coming out (still processing the RAW images). Here are a few more:
Dawn on Mt. Stuart
Dawn on Mt. Stuart
Dawn to the west
Dawn to the west
Dawn, north to Three Fingers
Dawn, north to Three Fingers
South
South
Sunrise on Chimney Rock
Sunrise on Chimney Rock
Sunrise on Vesper-Big Four
Sunrise on Vesper-Big Four

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