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John Morrow Member
Joined: 03 Apr 2007 Posts: 1526 | TRs | Pics Location: Roslyn |
donb and Roald invited Jake and I for this great mini vacation trip at the end of Lake Chelan. We had so many fortunate events fall into place on this one. Upon arrival into Stehekin we promptly found rides, boats, and old pickups donated by the generous people of Shehekin allowing us to cut off the 8 or 9 round trip hiking miles from Harlequin Bridge to Weaver Point. As evidenced by the pic at the end of the report, the boat even floated!
Thursday was the casual ascent 5 miles up Devore Creek trail to Bird Creek camp. It did gain 3000 vertical feet but was a nicely graded trail.
Friday we got out of camp a little after 6AM for the long combo of Tupshin and Devore. After the first 500 feet of climbing through lightly brushy forest I realized I left my camera in the tent, I wasn't going back!
Since I have no pics of the day, and there are good reports on the net between Matt, Stefan, and Klenke, (soon add the Honey Badgers), I'll just add this:
Warning: what follows is a long winded and boring route description.
Tupshin was scrambleable through at least the first three pitches (pitches 0,1,and 2) as described in Summitpost.
At the start of Klenke's Pitch 3 we thought we were basically at the base of the 5.4 corner/flake. I guess we weren't moving that fast with 4 of us.
So I started straight up and found a reasonable low class five move in the vicinity of what Klenke calls "5.hard". It really wasn't. Then, by the time I reached the 5.4 move, the rope had run out its full length and we began simulclimbing. The move was solid. I then moved right on easier class 3/4 ground to set up the belay at the first rappel station. Everyone else came directly up under me to add more enjoyable mid fifth climbing (by avoiding my rightward exit to reach the 1st/highest rappel station). In all, that would make two pitches of reasonable low fifth class climbing. It also can basically be completely avoided by moving right when things "look difficult" as discovered by Matt, Carla, and Franklin. Somehow, we neglected to find some of that rightward easier stuff.
I have to say that with lots of loose debris on the ledges, this climb was not really very enjoyable having to constantly worry about stuff coming down onto the rest of our party of four whether climbing, rappelling, or pulling the rappel rope. Note, though, that the holds and climbing are basically solid. I guess I am a bit tainted toward this mountain by also having taken a 2x4 inch rock to the side of my jaw, instantly disorienting me for a bit, making my ear ring loudly and my jaw throb in a good deal of pain for a few hours. No problem in the end, it was a just another lesson of many, and could have been much worse. Reminded me of all the times I "got my bell rung" as a neighborhood kid in pick up games of whatever!
The four rappels we did were slow, tedious, and cautious due the the loose junk on the ledges and 4 in the party. With a headache and throbing jaw, I was just glad to be back on the snow.
The descent into Bird Creek Basin from 6800 feet to 5800 feet was non eventful through mostly open steep meadow. Needless to say we didn't start for Devore until 4PM! We raced to the top to reach the final moves a bit before 6PM. At 5800 feet the broad grass, snow, and rock gully that splits the waterfall basin headwall is obvious. It reaches the lakes bench to the east of the lakes. Having left all gear behind, the fourth class move, the traverse around the SW exposed class 3 corner, and the final gully all took time with four of us moving carefully, safely, and methodically. Summitpost description is right on.
Backing down, descending Bird Creek to the left (north) through often less than pleasant wandering at dusk, brought us back to camp at 9:30PM. Darkness in the forest and triedness in the body. Hmm, another tent in camp...20 minutes later Carla and Franklin arrived back from Tupshin to share some stories and discussion of the day's events!
Saturday was a long and pleasant walk through much gorgeous larch basin country to Flora.
Sat morning and Wy'east Wy'east and Lk Marie Basin Wy'east to Devore
Avoiding the long circuitous approach in Summitroutes, we ascended into the first major basin south of point 8015 to reach its 7440+ foot saddle.
Glacier Peak Wilderness, WA Key Saddle Arriving at saddle
The east side descent of this saddle was the only scrambling of the day and we were off through beautiful Castle Creek basin to the south slope of Flora.
Cl 2/3ish downclimb Castle Creek meadows Tupshin peeks out Chelan Mtns. Crest Fernow to Bonanza Flora top with Jon and Don Glacier Peak Wilderness, WA Glacier Peak Wilderness, WA Eldo-Buckner-Tupshin-Logan Glacier Peak Wilderness, WA Chelan and Domke a long way down
Retrace our steps, back to camp, get some sleep, hike out, board the pirate ship, engorge ourselves on Stehekin Bakery pies, cinnamon rolls, sandwiches, and quiches, and then the long ferry home.
Finally about done ascending! Flora afternoon Saddle Basin Jake leaves the pirate ship
There you have it, congratulations, you have reached the end of another long, unimaginative, and dry trip report!
The truly entertaining version here:
https://www.nwhikers.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=7993180&highlight=
Tell me, what is it you plan to do with your one wild and precious life?-Mary Oliver
A nation that continues year after year to spend more money on military defense than on programs of social uplift is approaching spiritual doom.
― MLK Jr.
Tell me, what is it you plan to do with your one wild and precious life?-Mary Oliver
A nation that continues year after year to spend more money on military defense than on programs of social uplift is approaching spiritual doom.
― MLK Jr.
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honey badger Member
Joined: 03 Jul 2007 Posts: 146 | TRs | Pics Location: Mukilteo |
Nice tr John. Thanks for writing it. Maybe gets me off the hook? nah... We were glad you guys were off Tupshin before we got there. And assuring we were on route when we heard your voices 200' up on your traverse. So dang hot, we took it slow, hiking from shady spot to shady spot.
I was looking forward to a row in the pirate boat. I think it added to the adventure. We did manage to get bakery goods and a relaxing wait on the deck in Stehekin on an enjoyable lazy day out.
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silence Member
Joined: 25 Apr 2005 Posts: 4420 | TRs | Pics
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silence
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Mon Aug 08, 2011 3:35 pm
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don't have a clue where this is .. seriously i've never heard of these beautiful places (great pix btw) .. but i like it and your tr is just dandy and not dry and boring at all .. thx for posting it ..
PHOTOS
FILMS
Keep a good head and always carry a light bulb. Bob Dylan
PHOTOS
FILMS
Keep a good head and always carry a light bulb. Bob Dylan
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Roald Member
Joined: 06 Aug 2007 Posts: 367 | TRs | Pics Location: Seattle |
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Roald
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Mon Aug 08, 2011 4:23 pm
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Thanks for your tr and pics, John! Franklin's still on the hook for a tr, but does this get me off the hook?
Traveling with such skilled and generous partners - and trading dessert and stories with Carla and Franklin in camp made this a super outing. Thanks! And then there's Stehekin...
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Stefan Member
Joined: 17 Dec 2001 Posts: 5091 | TRs | Pics
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Stefan
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Mon Aug 08, 2011 4:38 pm
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great stuff. love the campfire picture of reading the route stuff--I don't think one of those pages was from Beckey!
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John Morrow Member
Joined: 03 Apr 2007 Posts: 1526 | TRs | Pics Location: Roslyn |
Roald wrote: | Thanks for your tr and pics, John! Franklin's still on the hook for a tr, but does this get me off the hook? |
No way, Jon. Not a chance, nada...git it done!
Franklin...a must.
Besides, I forgot to mention a few key happenings like the trek pole that loved to swim and the bicycle "incident"!
Oh, Stefan, thanks for the great TR earlier this month to help us out! No helpful assistance from Beckey on this one after all....
John
Tell me, what is it you plan to do with your one wild and precious life?-Mary Oliver
A nation that continues year after year to spend more money on military defense than on programs of social uplift is approaching spiritual doom.
― MLK Jr.
Tell me, what is it you plan to do with your one wild and precious life?-Mary Oliver
A nation that continues year after year to spend more money on military defense than on programs of social uplift is approaching spiritual doom.
― MLK Jr.
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iron Member
Joined: 10 Aug 2008 Posts: 6392 | TRs | Pics Location: southeast kootenays |
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iron
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Mon Aug 08, 2011 5:01 pm
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is don b done with the list yet?
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twodogdad Member
Joined: 21 Nov 2006 Posts: 846 | TRs | Pics Location: seattle |
Congratulations, pirates. I don't know about the rest of you, but Jon has now used skis, plane, and boat in his T100 quest: how about hijacking a hot-air balloon, Jon--for the Moxes? Or for ptaking Ptarmigan, in Don's case. (Idea comes from the late-nineteenth century American mountaineering classic To the Matterhorn in a Boat--the boat in question being a Hot-Air Balloon.)
N
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Matt Tea, Earl Grey, Hot
Joined: 30 Jan 2007 Posts: 4307 | TRs | Pics Location: Shoreline |
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Matt
Tea, Earl Grey, Hot
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Tue Aug 09, 2011 9:21 pm
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Sound like this was the area to be lately, between your party and fwb & Dicey this weekend, plus Stefan's group earlier. I had hoped to be there also no the same weekend, with mtnmike & Fay Pullen but had to change plans.
As beacons mountains burned at evening. J.R.R. Tolkien
As beacons mountains burned at evening. J.R.R. Tolkien
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Tom_Sjolseth Born Yesterday
Joined: 30 May 2007 Posts: 2652 | TRs | Pics Location: Right here. |
Cool report on a neat area. Thanks for sharing.
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Quark Niece of Alvy Moore
Joined: 15 May 2003 Posts: 14152 | TRs | Pics
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Quark
Niece of Alvy Moore
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Wed Aug 10, 2011 4:09 pm
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Been a long time since I've seen a trip report from Devore, et al. I guess the road washout has something to do with that.....
Nice pics, John. It's not unimaginative and dry at all! Jeezus.
"...Other than that, the post was more or less accurate."
Bernardo, NW Hikers' Bureau Chief of Reporting
"...Other than that, the post was more or less accurate."
Bernardo, NW Hikers' Bureau Chief of Reporting
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honey badger Member
Joined: 03 Jul 2007 Posts: 146 | TRs | Pics Location: Mukilteo |
I think the area is less visited due to the ferry to get to Stehekin then another 9 mile walk or a bus ride part way, or bringing a boat to cross the lake. Though you can also get there from Holden. Just more logistics and time needed.
Quark, no road, so no washout issues.
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