Forum Index > Trip Reports > 8/5/11 Pasaytens -Iron Gate: Ampitheatre, Cathedral, Remmel
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applewood
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Location: North Central WA.
applewood
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PostSun Aug 21, 2011 4:47 pm 
I'd been wanting to make the trip to Cathedral Peak for more than 30 years, but somehow never found the time, until this year (ah, the joys of unemployment in the Great Recession). A few days before our planned departure I went to bed a bit apprehensive, wondering what I was doing making such an adolescent adventure (worrying if my accumulation of old injuries might not prove to be too much), but I awoke the next morning realizing it was going to be like a retreat, a time of physical and spiritual discovery and recharge, and especially a time to enjoy the company of my 16 year old daughter, Shae. What had begun as a modest week-long plan quickly morphed into a 10 day trip including climbs of at least Cathedral Pk and Mt. Remmel, so we added a minimal climbing rack and dumped the tent, opting for a simple tarp and ground cloth instead. We then threw in an extra day of food, just in case. The result was a load substantially more than the 30 lbs I'd been hoping for, but the consolation was that for the first time my child was carrying a load (slightly) larger than mine! It all began on an auspicious note when on the drive in we encountered a moose cow crossing the road below Iron Gate. I'd been in to Windy Peak and Horseshoe Basin from Iron Gate several times in the 90's, but had never gone further west, nor seen the area since the 2006 Tripod Fire. For Shae it was all new.
Windy Peak from near Iron Gate trailhead
Windy Peak from near Iron Gate trailhead
Approaching Sunny Pass and Horseshoe Basin
Approaching Sunny Pass and Horseshoe Basin
First view Of Mt Remmel from Horseshoe basin
First view Of Mt Remmel from Horseshoe basin
Day 1 - So on 8/5 Shae and I hoisted our 50lb loads at Iron Gate and began our much anticipated trip along the Boundary trail. We began with incredibly high spirits, soon enough we had climbed the gentle 4 mile slope to Sunny Pass (the only part of our trip within the '06 fire damage), where we enjoyed a gourmet lunch of smoked salmon and sharp cheddar cheese to the sights of Horseshoe Basin opening before us to the north and Mt Remmel forming the end of an even larger arch to the west. Horseshoe Basin was lovely with wild flowers and soon we were pushing west past Louden Lake along the dryer forested slope leading to Haig Mtn. After another hour (a total of only 8 miles for the day) I was beat and so we found a camp on an attractive rock ledge at about 6900' elevation and made dinner and explored the area under the constant buzz of mosquitoes - our introduction to the little vampire-zombies of the Pasaytens. This was not a good introduction, by the way, and immediately I began my string of apologies for not bringing the tent. As it turned out this rocky spot was not too far above a little boggy area which turned out to provide the worst mosquitoes of the trip. We made a vow to camp higher and in more open areas from here on - and we did.
First night's camp west of Horseshoe Basin
First night's camp west of Horseshoe Basin
Shae the proud Jetboil owner and master cook...
Shae the proud Jetboil owner and master cook...
The old man relaxing amid the mozies
The old man relaxing amid the mozies
Day 2 - After hiking a mile or so up the trail towards Teapot Dome we headed off-trail up Haig Mtn wandering as we pleased above the tree line. Both the hiking and the views were spectacular, and we felt in 7th Heaven.
Pumping water
Pumping water
heading cross country on Haig Mtn.
heading cross country on Haig Mtn.
The stunning NE face of Bauerman Ridge from Haig Mtn (a view hidden from the main trail).
The stunning NE face of Bauerman Ridge from Haig Mtn (a view hidden from the main trail).
The only downside was seeing the extensive erosion on the upper slopes which I figure could only have been caused by the commercial sheep grazing (which ended sometime in the mid 90's). Our "rest-day" plan had been to backpack along Haig Mtn, over Teapot Dome and on to Bauerman Ridge to camp near Scheelite Pass. But at the look of the steep east ridge of Teapot Dome we decided to bail off the ridge to join the main trail east of Teapot Dome. We traded freedom for conveniences and made quick time to the high point on the trail where it crosses the southern slope of Bauerman Ridge. After a little exploring we found a lovely protected cave and set up camp (7300').
Cave camp on lower Bauerman Ridge.
Cave camp on lower Bauerman Ridge.
Megalithic comforts...
Megalithic comforts...
Happy campers!
Happy campers!
Top-roping the clean and nubby slabs on lower Bauerman ridge
Top-roping the clean and nubby slabs on lower Bauerman ridge
Teapot Domes from ridge/cave camp
Teapot Domes from ridge/cave camp
One of hundreds of flower photos....
One of hundreds of flower photos....
Then we went to explore the slabs above camp for a bit of top-rope climbing. Shae had brought her rock shoes, but I had left mine at home in an effort to trim my load, and so I was anxious to see how my heavy hikers would do on the granite (turns out surprisingly well). I realized this was exactly what I'd done during my summers when I was my daughter's age (in Colorado) in the days of real adventures, heavier gear and mostly naive expectations. This part of Bauerman Ridge had been effected by an earlier fire (which I'd guess was maybe 50 years ago). The result is an open ridge scattered with the skeletons of large burnt tree, younger, smaller replacements, assorted boulders and a profusion of wild flowers. I must have taken a hundred photos that evening as we wandered around trying to avoid the local flying zombies. We had backpacked maybe only 4 miles that day, but it had been strenuous at times, and our "rest" was mostly in the form of being positively recharged with endorphins. That night the cave gave protection from the dew, but left me feeling a bit claustrophobic, and too warm to sleep comfortably or bug-free. For the second night I didn't sleep. Day 3 - This was our 10 mile push day to Cathedral Pass, and the gentle trail miles unfolded easily as we passed through Scheelite Pass (wherever it is...), Tungsten Mine and Apex Pass. We had yet to see any other hikers since below Teapot Dome (this turned out to be our only day of the trip without encounters with other humans).
First full view of Cathedral Pk from Apex Pass.
First full view of Cathedral Pk from Apex Pass.
The majestic Cathedral Peak - Our climb of the NE Ridge will follow the right skyline.
The majestic Cathedral Peak - Our climb of the NE Ridge will follow the right skyline.
The view of Mt Remmel from Apex Pass, our eventual route up the NW Ridge will follow the right skyline.
The view of Mt Remmel from Apex Pass, our eventual route up the NW Ridge will follow the right skyline.
On the west side of Apex Pass we got our first full views of Cathedral Peak and Amphitheatre Mtn ahead of us and Remmel Mtn off to the left. As we did the last couple of miles to Cathedral Pass we got a good view of Cathedral's NE Ridge (the easy route we had hoped to do). We set up camp on a spectacular rocky ledge on the east side just below the top of the pass (7450'), and then headed down the other side to visit the sights around Upper Cathedral Lake which we had to ourselves.
Our camp at Cathedral Pass
Our camp at Cathedral Pass
Upper Cathedral Lake.
Upper Cathedral Lake.
One of the locals...
One of the locals...
We planned to catch a fish or two for dinner, but we spent most of the time learning to cast our borrowed fly rod, and when I finally got a bite, I was too distracted with photographing the local goats to set the hook... The goats quickly went from being a delightful novelty to a potentially dangerous pest. I could have had them eating out of my hand (which apparently others have done). That evening back in camp one again visited us, and to both get away from the mini-zombies and deter the goat we followed him up the north ridge of Amphitheatre where we planned to climb the next day. We were amazed that he let us follow so close and even climb into a position above him as he lay in one of his nests at the base of the ridge. Day 4 - After securing our camp as well as we could against the threat of goats (all food into my pack nestled as high as I could in a dead fir), we headed up to the base of Amphitheatre's North Ridge, an apparently easy route made up of small vertical steps interspersed with scrambling and down climbs through the various notches along the ridge. The route finding proved to be a bit of a challenge, as we started more on the west face in the attempt to add a bit more climbing. At first everything I thought was easy turned out steeper and more difficult than I cared to do! Soon we were back on the North Ridge and alternating leads.
Shae on route along North Ridge of Amphitheatre
Shae on route along North Ridge of Amphitheatre
The intimidating South Face of Cathedral Pk from Ampihitheatre's N Ridge.
The intimidating South Face of Cathedral Pk from Ampihitheatre's N Ridge.
The modest summit of Amphitheatre Mtn.
The modest summit of Amphitheatre Mtn.
This was the first time Shae had led trad pitches, and I was delighted to see her growing confidence in placing anchors and making the moves (up to 5.5). By early afternoon we were coiling the rope on the upper N ridge and heading off to enjoy the magical seeming ridge to and south of the main summit. A couple of hours later we were heading down the SW "amphitheatre" basin of this sprawling and charming mountain in a great mood, only a bit dampened by the shocking and obvious evidence of abundant horse traffic through the fragile alpine slopes. In less than a couple of hours we had followed the trails around the west to Cathedral Lake and back to our camp at the pass. Along the way we met some Outward Bound students who also were only using tarps and it was heartening to see that others were having a similar wilderness experience to ours. One of the women with a welt covered face looked serious when she confided that the mozies were driving her crazy. We could relate... That evening we had dinner on the pass - hoping to catch any available breeze and threw rocks at the goats to get them to stay away and perhaps learn a little healthy respect for humans. Some other guys hiked up from Cathedral Lake to join us (in our "dinning room") for some relief from the mozies and pleasant conversation of other trails and goat encounters.
Looking back at camp on Cathedral Pass on the morning of the climb
Looking back at camp on Cathedral Pass on the morning of the climb
Dramatic (unnamed, probably unclimbed) NE face on Amphitheatre Mtn's East Ridge.
Dramatic (unnamed, probably unclimbed) NE face on Amphitheatre Mtn's East Ridge.
Looking east from base of Cathedral's NE Ridge (Apex Mtn on the left)
Looking east from base of Cathedral's NE Ridge (Apex Mtn on the left)
View up the NE Ridge
View up the NE Ridge
Shae's belay mid-way up NE Ridge
Shae's belay mid-way up NE Ridge
View south from Cathedral's summit - the sprawling arms of Amphitheatre with Mt Remmel in the distance.
View south from Cathedral's summit - the sprawling arms of Amphitheatre with Mt Remmel in the distance.
Day 5 - Up early and out of camp by 6am to do the ascent of Cathedral's NE Ridge. Half asleep we surprised ourselves by being at the base of the ridge in only half an hour. Shae led the first pitch (my new rope gun), and by mid-morning (7 pitches later, each with a bit of 5.3 and scrambling), we were on the summit, enjoying a spectacular 360 degree view under blue skies.
The joys of climbing...
The joys of climbing...
Jr. scattering Sr's ashes on the summit
Jr. scattering Sr's ashes on the summit
Studying the climber's log
Studying the climber's log
We lingered long there (having to work hard to remove the cap on the summit log tube), then negotiated the descent of the western "walk-up" route - glad to have a rope! The run down the fine scree slopes to the pass were the high point. By noon we were back at camp and ready to move on to Remmel (rather than be driven more crazy by mosquitoes). On the way we stopped to swim and wash in Cathedral Lake, Shae diving in immediately and swimming for ages, while it was all I could do to dive in once. But once in it was so great!
negotiating the "walk-off"
negotiating the "walk-off"
View east from Upper Cathedral Lake
View east from Upper Cathedral Lake
refreshing...
refreshing...
Then it was off to Remmel, which we'd been able to scout a tentative route up from the recent summit views. The plan was to head due south from Remmel Lake, bush-wacking through a couple of miles of forested hill sides to access the alpine meadows below the NW ridge. When we got to Remmel Lake in the late afternoon we were already showing signs of fatigue. We filled our water containers at the last for sure source then headed off aiming for a distinctive snow field along the ridge. For the next hour we hiked in mostly silent thirst and mosquito driven anguish. The ground was often boggy and no camp sites looked suitable until we were on the ridge top exhausted and nearly catatonic. But a flat spot was eventually found amid the stunted bouldery ridge-line krummholz forest (7500'), and Shae set about creating a reviving meal.
Remmel Mtn (from Amphitheatre Mtn.)
Remmel Mtn (from Amphitheatre Mtn.)
Camp at 7500' on the NW Ridge of Mt Remmel
Camp at 7500' on the NW Ridge of Mt Remmel
Moonrise over Remmel, with the promise of changing weather...
Moonrise over Remmel, with the promise of changing weather...
This was the first time we felt we'd entered real wilderness - far removed from trails, horses, metal culverts and other hikers. That evening the moon (nearly full) rose directly above the summit of Remmel under the wisps of a few cirrus clouds. That night I got my first really good sleep of the trip.
Day of the climb, dawns with fog...
Day of the climb, dawns with fog...
View up the NW Ridge from near camp
View up the NW Ridge from near camp
View east from the NW Ridge
View east from the NW Ridge
Day 6 - Dawn met us with a dramatic cloud bank flowing in to the low lands from the west and north. Remmel Lake was hidden, and it looked almost as if it would keep rising as if a tide was flowing in from a vast white Western ocean. It was beautiful to watch streaming in, like a cloud river or glacier, but it also made us want to get the ascent done quickly. Our planned route was up the NW ridge which the Beckey guide commented "appears sensible as a route", but had no recorded ascent at the time of publication (1981).
View north towards Cathedral Pk, Cornwall lake below.
View north towards Cathedral Pk, Cornwall lake below.
View up the upper NW Ridge from the N summit
View up the upper NW Ridge from the N summit
View back to N summit from upper NW Ridge crest
View back to N summit from upper NW Ridge crest
View west from near the summit
View west from near the summit
Happy climbers (mid morning)
Happy climbers (mid morning)
View up the full NW Ridge of Remmel on the hike out (mid-afternoon)
View up the full NW Ridge of Remmel on the hike out (mid-afternoon)
In less than an hour we had covered the mile of 2nd class ridge to the N summit. From there the ridge became steep and scary. We did two rappels on the west side to access the upper NW ridge, and scrambled up to the first of the main gendarmes. A couple of 5.2 pitches on each of these gendarmes led to the summit cone where we once again enjoyed the spectacular views, and stood in amazement that there had once been a Forest Service lookout tower there (and that other "hikers" had recently ascended the mtn on horseback!). Somehow as I took summit photos the fog bank suddenly cleared without my noticing. We were elated. It had taken only 3 and a half hours to climb the NE Ridge and it appears we may have been the first to do so (no sign of old rappel anchors). A couple of more rappels got us down the upper ridge and allowed us to scramble along the lower (easy but often dangerously loose) west slope. By 1 pm we were back in camp just as a violent hail storm began. As the tarp slowly collapsed we packed our gear and made ready to leave the exposed lightning ringed ridge. In a steady rain we hiked out north along the beautiful ridge (avoiding the boggy slope we'd come up). Tired, soaked, wandering a bit aimlessly and wishing a dry shelter would somehow appear we made our way back to Remmel Lake and eventually found a perfect camp site about a half mile north the lake; an old horse camp with some dry ground beneath trees and plenty of dry firewood (6950').
Shelter from the storm - Teatime at Remmel Lk
Shelter from the storm - Teatime at Remmel Lk
Horse camp north of Remmel Lk.
Horse camp north of Remmel Lk.
Heading home - Looking back to Remmel on day after ascent
Heading home - Looking back to Remmel on day after ascent
We pitched the tarp in a higher (more conventional) arrangement than usual and hung our gear up to dry. Ironically the rain and hail seemed to have killed the mosquitoes (nature's homeopathic remedy), and we felt like we were finally having a normal camp (vs. a climber's bivy) for the first time on the trip. Day 7 - After sleeping in and hanging out in the mostly mosquito free morning sun we began the return trip - the first leg, 9 miles to Tungsten Mine. By this time Shae's foot, achilles' tendon and knee were all starting to come undone, and so our plans to wander up Apex Mtn, and explore along Bauerman Ridge and finally hike out over Windy Peak (all adding 3 more 8000' peaks to our bag in so many more days), turned into just getting back to Iron Gate in one piece.
Bunk-house at Tungsten Mine
Bunk-house at Tungsten Mine
A level floor, home away from home.
A level floor, home away from home.
A friendly ground squirrel at Tungsten Mine.
A friendly ground squirrel at Tungsten Mine.
That night we stayed in the larger building at Tungsten Mine, finding it delightfully bug free (6900'), although conducive to strange dreams.... Day 8 - After another slow start we headed off on the enjoyable 5 miles to our next camp on the southern end of Bauerman Ridge (7250'). Here we spent the afternoon napping, pumping water and photographing wild flowers.
Camp on the lower Bauerman Ridge
Camp on the lower Bauerman Ridge
A little light trail reading
A little light trail reading
the inviting slabs of the Teapot Domes from camp on the lower Bauerman Ridge (next time...).
the inviting slabs of the Teapot Domes from camp on the lower Bauerman Ridge (next time...).
Day 9 (8/13/11) - Leaving a fuller exploration of the enticing Buaerman Ridge for another trip we headed the 12 miles out to Iron Gate. It was obvious how much dryer and slightly less buggy the area had become in a week. There were more people, but also more wild flowers. We were not as excited or energetic as we had been at the start, but we were certainly more satisfied.
Horseshoe basin in full bloom
Horseshoe basin in full bloom
Lingering on Sunny Pass, a final meal before we go.
Lingering on Sunny Pass, a final meal before we go.
Back at Iron Gate - contented survivors.
Back at Iron Gate - contented survivors.
Throughout the trip we'd occasionally read from a pocket edition of the Tao Te Ching, opened at random to set the tone for the day. Chapter 29 stuck with me as a favorite passage. Do you think you can take over the universe and improve it? I do not believe it can be done. The universe is sacred. You cannot improve it. If you try to change it, you will ruin it. If you try to hold it, you will lose it. So sometimes things are ahead and sometimes they are behind. Sometimes breathing is hard, sometimes it comes easy. Sometimes there is strength and sometimes weakness. Sometimes one is up and sometimes down. Therefore the sage avoids extremes, excesses, and complacency.

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Backpacker Joe
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Joined: 16 Dec 2001
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Backpacker Joe
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PostSun Aug 21, 2011 5:53 pm 
A wonderful report/trip and really nice pics. How long is that trip from the trailhead to Upper Cathedral?

"If destruction be our lot we must ourselves be its author and finisher. As a nation of freemen we must live through all time or die by suicide." — Abraham Lincoln
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#19
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PostSun Aug 21, 2011 6:06 pm 
Up there with the best of the best TRs. Very cool. cool.gif

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applewood
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applewood
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PostSun Aug 21, 2011 6:22 pm 
Thanks Backpacker Joe, It's 22 miles from Iron Gate to Cathedral Pass (Upper Cathedral lake is almost another mile further), but they are a relatively gentle 22 miles. The various valley access routes to the south are shorter, but involve about twice the total vertical gain. Thanks #19!

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Magellan
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Magellan
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PostSun Aug 21, 2011 6:37 pm 
Lovely description and photos. up.gif up.gif Good for you keeping up with the 16 year old!

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Backpacker Joe
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PostSun Aug 21, 2011 7:09 pm 
Thanks Apple. I guess Ill save that hike until late september early october.

"If destruction be our lot we must ourselves be its author and finisher. As a nation of freemen we must live through all time or die by suicide." — Abraham Lincoln
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jackchinook
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PostSun Aug 21, 2011 9:18 pm 
Great TR applewood. I was one of the groups that you passed in Horseshoe Basin (group of 5 guys, we talked about wildflowers and horse impacts and I asked what your wife did for the USFS). After passing you two, I remarked to my buddies that I thought it was really cool you and your daughter were out there obviously having a great trip together and that I hoped I'd be doing that when my daughter is old enough.....She turns two tomorrow.

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applewood
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applewood
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PostSun Aug 21, 2011 9:33 pm 
Thanks Jack - hope you guys had a great trip too. It was a lovely trip for us with the climbs and scenery, but the shared companionship was the best part. I wish you many such with your daughter too! Just don't wait....
My daughter at just over a year old...(secure on a belay ledge)
My daughter at just over a year old...(secure on a belay ledge)

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Yet
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PostSun Aug 21, 2011 10:18 pm 
OMG. Most awesomest TR ever! Your daughter is way cool. Can she be my FB friend? embarassedlaugh.gif smile.gif Seriously cool TR. You and your daughter both rock, applewood! What a trip to remember. Thanks for sharing. up.gif smile.gif

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Backpacker Joe
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PostSun Aug 21, 2011 11:01 pm 
Hey Jack, congrats on the young-in. I agree how nice it is to see (well watch) a father and young daughter get out into the wilderness together. Tenn thumbs up on that one! up.gif up.gif up.gif up.gif up.gif up.gif up.gif up.gif up.gif up.gif

"If destruction be our lot we must ourselves be its author and finisher. As a nation of freemen we must live through all time or die by suicide." — Abraham Lincoln
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hikermike
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hikermike
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PostMon Aug 22, 2011 12:08 am 
One of the few times a forest fire has improved the view. (Referring to the second picture) Those trees are no taller than when I was there 20 years ago and you couldn't see over or through them as they were so thick. One of the most boring and dismal trails I'd been on. Looks like now you can actually see something. (Up to Sunny Pass it used to be a mining road.)

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Bedivere
Why Do Witches Burn?



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Bedivere
Why Do Witches Burn?
PostMon Aug 22, 2011 1:55 am 
Sweet report and great pics! Looks like we narrowly missed you. You are lucky to get to spend such quality time with your daughter - it will surely be something she'll remember the rest of her life.

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Stefan
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PostMon Aug 22, 2011 8:52 am 
Now this is great. Thank you for sharing. You motivate me to get my daughter to do this...when she is teenager!

Art is an adventure.
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Rainie Too!
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Rainie Too!
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PostMon Aug 22, 2011 11:40 am 
up.gif up.gif up.gif I truely moving TR. Thanks for sharing what you shared with your daughter.

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