[williswall]

Usually I choose my WT hike time based on weather and days off, but this week my daughter and I had to stick to a specific schedule with me returning to work and her starting up HS swimming. I was skeptical that we could pull off a fastpack under current conditions so made sure I had a buddy on standby today (Sunday) to pick us up if we had to abort. Short version of the schedule: take advantage of good weather Saturday by hiking from Longmire CCW to Granite creek, a 41 mile day total. I was planning a 20 hour day with 3-4 hours of rest. Then a milder day during forecast rainy weather to stay at the North Puyallup on Sunday night. This way, if weather and/or conditions wreaked havoc on the climb to Klapatche Park, we could bail by walking the West Side road out and either regain the trail via the South Puyallup or Tahoma creek trail, or simply hitch a ride back to Longmire. We had very light packs, my daughter's was 8 pounds and mine 5, then I carried most of the food to even it up. I had planned on field testing our Blizzard tube/Momentum liner bag/B4 combo in the lower elevation camps, but some surprises were in store for us.

Zpacks with tube

front packs

WT 2011 Cassie pack

After obtaining the permit we set out at 8 AM and a 48 degree temp for an uneventful morning with pleasant sunny hiking past Paradise River camp and Reflection Lakes, down into the Stevens Canyon (trail crews have cut the overgrowth for a special bonus) and a rather warmish climb back up to Box Canyon. We had to laugh that a smoking chick was complaining about the noisy kids. We gladly left there after using the facilities to some doofus blasting his stereo for all to hear his crappy music. You gotta love the drive-in spots in the park during the summer on a weekend! Leaving the noise and smoke behind, we stopped before hitting the snow on the Cowlitz Divide to don our Goretex socks, one of the adjustments I made in equipment for this year. The others, a map/compass (don't carry one on the WT normally as I have it practically memorized), GPS with topo map, and Goretex mitts for both of us. Instead of using the Merrill Trail Gloves I opted for my usual trail runners as these would accommodate the Goretex socks.

Cassie backlit

natural totem

Rocky socks

Sure enough, at 5500' on the Cowlitz Divide we ran into snow which was pretty much continuous, with few exceptions, all the way to Indian Bar.

snow on the Cowlitz

Rainier from the Cowlitz

cowlitz divide 5500'

waning sun on the Cowlitz

Progress was slower than my solo hikes because of the snow and my daughter is more tentative in her snow footing than my slop running. Stopping at Indian Bar for dinner, we chatted with fellow hikers in the shelter and I told Cassie we better leave before I became intoxicated with the thought of just staying there and snatching some of their Canadian Club. I cooked up Mac n' Cheese and Raspberry crumble and off we went for Panhandle Gap. Some route finding problems arose trying to gain the trail out of Indian Bar, now in the dark. We sludged through very wet areas before contouring around the finally gaining the trail, all of which was setting us back on the schedule. Climbing into cloud, we got a glorious surprise when we emerged to transit the whole area to the Gap under full moonlight. These are untouched frame grabs from video (well, reduced in size from full HD)!

headlamp

above the clouds

ohanepecosh valley head

I've transited this area over 20 times in morning, afternoon, and evening and I've never seen such a spectacle with the moon casting our shadows over the sparkling snow, all above the cloud layer. This alone made the trip. However, we were a bit behind schedule and already I was thinking that we may have to bail. However, some time later the decision was made for me. Panhandle Gap Impasse: Navigation was easy, the snow was adequately soft for secure steps, and all was going well until we actually reached the Gap. Suddenly, the snow turned hard as ice and I tentatively investigated the area I had just a few weeks ago transited with a camera in each hand. It instantly became clear that I was not going to chance a fall with these conditions as no foothold could be secured, even had we been wearing climbing boots. I can honestly say I wouldn't have taken my daughter across this area even if we had ice axes, as there would have been no way to secure our footing whilst repositioning the axe for the belay. Decision easy, no way. This is the first time in 25 years that I have run into this situation on the trail so my usual "I've never needed an ice axe" will have to be amended. Right below the Gap was a bare patch of ground so we set up our system for this unplanned bivy. So much for testing it out in warmer climes, as we were now testing at the highest point on the entire trail in temperatures much lower than usual. The verdict: a few cool breezes entered our domain but by and large we slept OK and maintained warmth.

morning after unplanned bivy

unplanned bivy setup

Panhandle Gap Bypass: This morning (Sunday) I got up and contemplated our options after confirming that the snow was still firmer than sh*&^%t. The sun rises behind the ridge so it was going to be late morning/early afternoon before this shaded section would soften up enough to transit. Luckily there is phone coverage at the Gap so I called my buddy and told him we were done, that I'd get back to him with a time. I reconnoitered the ridge, following the goat trails and hairballs until I found a place that looked safe for Cassie to scramble down to the saddle that would take us below the Gap. We packed up and easily found the route for the scramble down to the saddle, which accounts for me being able to take video. I am going to write up a detailed report on my site about this option, as being able to safely bypass the Gap is something great for hikers (who are willing to go off trail) to have in their trail arsenal.

goat hair 2 above Panhandle Gap

scramble to the saddle

ridge above Panhandle Gap

from the saddle composite

Rainier from the scramble

I called my bud to give him the pickup time. Once below the Gap the snow (which gets more overall sun softening than the shadowed ridge snow) was adequate to make our way down to Summerland with no further problems, laughing at the marmot family so accustomed to humans.

attack the pole

nursing marmot mom

We ate a bite and continued on our way down. A ranger crossed paths and started out by giving me a bunch of crap for my poor planning and illegal camping (in his defense, I know they see a lot of yahoos on the trail in flip flops etc) but when I explained my background, reasoning for our plan, and safety concerns about continuing past the Gap the prior evening his attitude softened and we parted ways with no ticket. This has not been a good year for me and rangers.

Adams from a dry spot on the Cowlitz

green at last before White River

So here I am at home on Sunday night when the plan was to be closing in on the North Puyallup camp. Granted, it was ambitious especially with my daughter but she's a tough cookie and wanted to try something more "extreme." I feel good that we're safe at home and didn't try something dangerous simply to make an itinerary. We got to experience one of the coolest views ever, crossing the Gap area above cloud under a full moon. We got to field test our 2 person setup under harsh conditions. And once again I got to carry 3 days of food for basically a 1 day trip. I ran into mtngrl and her dad just a mile or two from White River, we had met at the marmot survey last weekish at ONP. I must say they are both utterly delightful, and we got to chat for a while. They had just started their 12 night journey and I hope they have a safe and great time. She also had spoken with bobbi and her hike is going well. Can't wait to read their trip reports.

[Go Jo]

Wow, tough cookie is an understatement. What an experience to have in life, thx for sharing it.

[Tigerotor77W]

Awesome report. I've been meaning to post up a question about how people get starting hiking -- I feel like it's not something that one "just experiments with on their own," and reading your report kind of makes me think that family is usually the first introduction. It was nice to read about this trip -- seems worthwhile overall, even given the few issues that came up!

[oregoncrna]

Thanks for your report. We have a permit to do the Wonderland Trail beginning September 9th. I'm hoping the problematic areas are less problematic by then. Since you are the most recent traveller, can you tell me: 1) What nighttime temps were (I sleep cold and need plan appropriately)? 2) How adequate you think the bear poles were (I'd like to avoid the weight of a bear canister)? Thanks for posting great pictures. Good luck next time!

[silence]

great effort .. the moonlight must have been trippy .. glad you ran into kelsie and ken and told them about the gap so there would be no surprises .. i told her i prob wouldn't have used an ice axe either .. in ice i'm not sure how much help one would be anyhow .. but i'm pretty sure they have yak trax

[williswall]

[williswall]

[Hiker Mama]

Wow, what an amazing accomplishment, despite not reaching your goal!

[yaki]

I always enjoy reading your trip reports. I'll be interested to learn more about your by-pass route of Panhandle Gap. You're daughter is a trooper and is going to have some great memories from these trips. Glad to hear Bobbi is doing well. I've been thinking about her.

[Tigerotor77W]

[oregoncrna]

Good to know. Your trip sounded epic!

[oregoncrna]

[bobbi]

hey there! i am back from my very own amazing wonderland trail adventure! while snacking south of Emerald Ridge heading towards Devil's Dream, mtngrl and Ken were heading towards South Puyallup River Camp. they mentioned about your Panhandle adventure! so happy to hear you and your daughter managed to hunker down in safety! Irene and i were more in awe at the weight of your packs! thanks for all your info prior to my heading out on the WT!