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Forum Index -> Trip Reports -> Mt Deception 26 August 2011
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meck
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Joined: 31 Dec 2010
Posts: 266 | TRs | Pics

Post Sat Aug 27, 2011 4:54 pm   
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Mt Deception via Royal Basin
Date: August 26 2011
Roundtrip distance: 16-18 miles?
Elevation Gain: ~5288 feet (2500 at trailhead, 7788)

Equipment brought: helmet, trekking poles, ice-ax, crampons

A beautiful day, looked perfect to go visit Mt. Deception.

The hike up to Royal Basin was pleasant and uneventful (the trail crews have been out and it shows).  The entire trail was snow free even to the upper tarn.  Began the ascent of the scree field at 1100 and was able to make it to the Deception-Martin peak ridge line by 1300 (Helmet recommended, ice-ax or climbing poles were helpful).  Flopped over to the west side and crosses the snow field to the ridge extending west of Mt. Deception.  I used crampons to cross this (as there were a few hard packed snow sections) but kickstepping would probably have been sufficient also.  Once to that ridge line it was an easy climb to the summit, arriving at 1415.  Left the summit at about 1515, and was back to the trailhead by around 2045.

Be warned, lots and lots of mosquitoes!  The little buggers followed me up the scree field all the way to the ridgeline.


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*pain is just your body telling you "you're doing it wrong"*
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FungiFan
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Location: East of the Olympics
Post Sat Aug 27, 2011 9:00 pm   
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Wow! Looking very pretty up there  up.gif . Thanks for the pics and update on the upper basin.

FF

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Stupid isn't illegal...but sure comes with consequences.
Famous last words: 'Here, hold my beer and watch this.'
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reststep
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Post Sun Aug 28, 2011 10:16 am   
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Great pictures of the surrounding area.  Thanks for the report.

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"The mountains are calling and I must go." - John Muir
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bobbi
stillaGUAMish



Joined: 13 Jul 2006
Posts: 7212 | TRs | Pics
Location: olympics!
Post Sun Aug 28, 2011 8:54 pm   
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i love the upper royal basin!  great photos from Mt. Deception!

in your pano, i can see 'bobbi' boulder' embarassedlaugh.gif   glad it's still there!

i may have to go there before 'summer ends'.

thanks!

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bobbi ૐ

"Today is your day!  Your mountain is waiting.  So…get on your way!" - Oh, the Places You’ll Go! By Dr. Seuss
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Phil
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Joined: 02 Jul 2003
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Location: Shoreline, WA
Post Mon Aug 29, 2011 4:37 pm   
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meck wrote:

Great shot... so much detail when you click the big pic.
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Scramblin_james
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Post Mon Apr 27, 2015 10:16 am   
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Which route did you take?

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A man’s true wealth is the good he does in the world. Beauty is eternity gazing at itself in a mirror. But you are eternity and you are the mirror.
–Kahlil Gibran
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meck
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Joined: 31 Dec 2010
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Post Mon Apr 27, 2015 5:05 pm   
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I went up OMCG route 3, it was kind of a "scree nightmare". I'll try add some markers to the pano shot in the first post.

[EDIT]  I'm a little fuzzy on exactly what path I took up the scree slope and where along the ridge I crossed (it was marked with some old bleached tree trunk limbs).  I remember staying entirely off the snow once I was on the slope (in the conditions that were present at that time in 2011), and that I only had to use my hands to climb up & over some rocks maybe 3-4 times before reaching the ridge line (although I was using trekking poles the rest of the time).  The scree slope would be an absolute nightmare to come down on in the dark (hard to tell where it "cliffs out"), you would mainly have to keep making a northerly descent.

A helmet is a must since there is so much loose rock junk above on your entire way up.

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*pain is just your body telling you "you're doing it wrong"*
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puzzlr
Mid Fork Rocks



Joined: 13 Feb 2007
Posts: 4732 | TRs | Pics
Location: Stuck in the middle
Post Mon Apr 27, 2015 9:31 pm   
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We took that scree field down from Martin and it was the worst part of our 5 day trip in that area. Marbles on concrete! 0001 grade sandpaper.

To climb Deception we scrambled up left of the snow field. Some parts were a little  steep, but all 3rd class. I would recommend staying away from that scree field. How did that become the "standard" route?
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Backpacker Joe
NWH Joe-Bob



Joined: 16 Dec 2001
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Post Mon Apr 27, 2015 11:27 pm   
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Any pics of the lakes prior to your climb up the valley?  Looks nice in there.

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"I won't be wronged, I won't be insulted, and I won't be laid a hand on. I don't do these things to other people and I require the same from them."

—Wayne's John Bernard Books in The Shootist
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reststep
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Post Tue Apr 28, 2015 11:43 am   
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Royal Lake

Tarn in Upper Royal Basin

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"The mountains are calling and I must go." - John Muir
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