[GaliWalker]

Part 1: Acclimatization Part 2: Dudipatsar Lake, Kaghan Valley Part 3: Ansoo Lake, Kaghan Valley Part 4: Lake Saif-ul-Maluk and Babusar Pass Aug 16-18, 2011: Fairy Meadows If you have one place to visit in your life, may it be Fairy Meadows. A lush green, forested expanse, 11,000ft high, dominated by the awe inspiring wall of Nanga Parbat, rising more than twice as high to 26,660ft. The world's ninth highest peak and the westernmost point of the Himalayas, Nanga Parbat at one point had the reputation of being the cruelest of the world's fourteen 8000m peaks. 31 people lost their lives before Hermann Buhl's legendry first ascent; the only solo first ascent of an 8000m peak; from Fairy Meadows, in 1953. All of this runs through your mind as you sit at Fairy Meadows and gaze at the gleaming, icy face of one of the big ones.

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I had deliberately scheduled Fairy Meadows near the end of my Northern Areas trip in Pakistan, hoping to save the best for last. The journey had begun a week earlier, from acclimatization efforts in Nathiagali, to four nights in Kaghan Valley, in which I had experienced some truly memorable sights. Now in the hot dusty town of Chilas, located on the banks of the River Indus, elevation 4000ft, I met my guide for the next three days: Mohammad Hafiz was a young 21yr old, a native of Fairy Meadows, but currently studying electronics in the city of Rawalpindi. He also turned out to be the eldest son, and heir, of the gentleman who ran the huts in Fairy Meadows, where I was going to spend the next two nights...so, not only my guide, but also my host. The next three days were to be possibly the most memorable of my life, in large part to Hafiz. Aug 16: Raikot Bridge to Fairy Meadows The next morning, I got dropped off at Raikot Bridge, on the Karakorum Highway, about 1.5hrs north from Chilas. I was met here by Hafiz, and we both piled into the jeep that was to take us to the village of Tatu. The jeep ride was about as scary as you can imagine. A narrow, single-track gravel road, took us steeply up the barren mountainside. Cliffs soared high on our right, and dropped many thousands of feet straight down to our left. At one point the jeep actually scraped the mountainside on our right due to the narrowness of the road. At another, we had to stop, while the driver flattened a section of the road, which a small rock slide had come down on, by shoveling the gravel away. He had us walk this section; even so the jeep tilted precariously as he made the crossing. Quite a few times, tight switchbacks forced us to back up to make the turn. 6mi and 1.5hrs later we were at Tatu, elevation ~8,500ft, where we piled out. The remaining 2.75mi to Fairy Meadows would have to be hiked.

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3- Tatu River

4- Tatu, an island of green

As we walked through the outskirts of Tatu, Hafiz pointed out a vast rocky area: last year's massive floods had swept away a number of houses from this place, when the Tatu River left its banks. We picked our way through this and began to climb. I was in short sleeves, but was soon regretting it. The sun was scorching hot; hot enough that within minutes I could feel a burning sensation on my arm...the onset of sunburn. I quickly called a break and slathered on the sun-block. The weirdest part of all this was that while it was scorching hot in the sun, it was actually a bit cool in the shade. There must have been a 15-20 degree difference in temperature, a testament to the clear air and high altitude that makes the sun's rays that much hotter in this part of the world. 2hr and 10min later, we were at Fairy Meadows. Hafiz took me to a large wooden platform, akin to a throne, and then left me alone, saying he'd be back a bit later. Green tea was served, "welcome tea" I was told. I relaxed with the cup of tea and took in the sights, or should I say sight: right in front of me was a lush green meadow, in which small cows were grazing idyllically...then a forest of tall pines...behind all of this Nanga Parbat. Clouds disappointingly cloaked the summit but pointy Ganalo Peak (21,680ft), a subsidiary peak of Nanga Parbat, took the breath away.

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The rest of the day was spent relaxing in Fairy Meadows, taking in the sights. Close to sunset, in the best light, the clouds finally cleared and Nanga Parbat stood revealed in all its glory.

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12- Ganalo Peak

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14- Last rays on Nanga Parbat

Aug 17: Fairy Meadows to Nanga Parbat base-camp After taking a few sunrise shots of Nanga Parbat, Hafiz and I began our hike to Nanga Parbat's base-camp around 5:45am. Joining us were three young teenaged cousins of Hafiz. Serene forest took us to Beyal Camp, about 45min from Fairy Meadows. This is another pretty spot, that has accommodation available, but not as nice as Fairy Meadows. A little while later we were at the lip of the deep gouge, through which flowed the Raikot Glacier. God, that thing was impressive! A river of seracs, naked white ice, as well as huge portions which were covered by scree. Small, green pools nestled within the ice, where portions had melted. Raikot Peak, just to the left of the main Nanga Parbat double summit, stood at the head of this river...a long way off and a long way up.

15- Dawn and shadows on Nanga Parbat

16- Raikot Glacier

17- View from Beyal Camp

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Immediately after the Raikot Glacier overlook, we began a steep climb up and over a green hill. At the other side lay the Ganalo Glacier, which we would have to cross. This was the moment I'd been dreading, since I had no idea what lay in store. Frankly, if it was anything like the Raikot Glacier, it was going to be scary. Thankfully, the glacier was much smaller, talus and scree covered most of the ice, with only a few exposed ice sections visible. Every year, in spring, the Fairy Meadows guides chart a route through this. The crossing went without any problems, though the initial 20yds were on a narrow 'ridge', with deep, exposed fissures in the ice on either side.

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21- On the Ganalo Glacier

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After the glacier, flower-filled meadows took us up to Nanga Parbat's base-camp, elevation 13,200ft, 3hrs after starting. Hafiz had recently purchased a mule that he had left to pasture on these meadows. He and his cousins went to check on it, so I stretched myself out in the sun and drank in the magnificence of Nanga Parbat. This moment, at peace in paradise, will be with me forever.

24- Base-camp in sight

25- Memorial

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28- Companionship

Eventually, clouds began to gather, so we reluctantly dragged ourselves away. Just shy of Fairy Meadows, it began to hail. We just made it back, before the heavens opened. It would rain hard all evening and night.

29- Back across the Ganalo Glacier

The evening was spent swapping stories and discussing Pakistan's current problems. My favorite story was when Hafiz related how his grandfather was one of the guides who helped bring Hermann Buhl down from Camp 1, after his successful first ascent of Nanga Parbat, feet severely frostbitten. Hafiz also showed me a pair of Reinhold Messner's K2 Mountaineering Boots, which Messner had left with them some years back.

30- Reinhold Messner's boots

Aug 18: Fairy Meadows to Raikot Bridge. Sadness. -------- Some logistics about the entire trip... Overall: - The entire trip was arranged through the PTDC (Pakistan Tourism Development Corporation), http://www.tourism.gov.pk/. - We arranged a 4x4 5-door Toyota Landcruiser, with driver (who was familiar with the area) and gas included. - Accommodation and food was also included. - There were three others in our party, who shared the costs, but they were not hiking, as I was. The whole thing cost me around $700. - Itinerary: We stayed 3 nights in Naran, the largest town in Kaghan Valley, after driving in from Islamabad. Then, we exited Kaghan Valley over Babusar Pass and stayed the night in Chilas. My partners then continued to Gilgit, while I stayed two nights at Fairy Meadows. On my return from Fairy Meadows, after meeting up, we again stayed the night in Chilas. The final night was in Kaghan Valley again, before the return to Islamabad. Guides: - My guide for the Kaghan Valley portion, Muhammad Shoaib (phone number available on request), was arranged through the hotel I was staying in Naran. I asked for a younger, fit guide, who would be willing to hike the opening 19mi (round-trip) Dudipatsar Lake hike with me in a day. This was the first thing I took care of, when I arrived in Naran. - My guide for Fairy Meadows was arranged through the PTDC. While arranging my accommodation (http://fairymeadowscottage.com/), they insisted on the best and most reliable guide available for me. The owner of the cottages eventually offered up his eldest son, who was also a guide. Safety: - Since I'm mainly a solo hiker (photography and partners don't mix), when I planned the trip I was reluctant to utilize any guides. I eventually decided against this for safety reasons, due to the volatile nature of Pakistan's less developed areas. Not having to navigate (though I kept abreast of where we were at all times) was weird, but curiously relaxing and of course faster. - The Taliban were a no-show, as expected, since Kaghan Valley and Fairy Meadows are not in their areas of operation. - General lawlessness did become a concern, in Kaghan Valley. I was unaware of this problem when I reached Naran, so it was a potential setback. Thankfully, nothing untoward happened. Travel at night, on some of the more lonely roads, is probably to be undertaken with caution. Health: - Upset stomachs are a common problem for tourists in Pakistan and India. These can destroy a trip, so should be planned for. My solution was to not have anything uncooked: no uncooked sauces (e.g. chutneys), no salads, not even fruit which would be eaten with its skin, as long as the fruit wasn't washed in bottled water! All the water I had was bottled. This is readily available everywhere, even in Fairy Meadows, though twice the price since it has to be carried up. I remained problem free, so I must have done something right! - Sunscreen and lip-balm are must haves, especially in Chilas and Fairy Meadows. I also pack petroleum jelly, which works better than lip-balm and which I also use to prevent chafing burns. Altitude: - I was recommended to stay hydrated and to eat dried fruit. I bought some dried apricots for the second case, but ended up not having these, since I'd forgotten to wash them properly...doh! I did stay hydrated and my generally good conditioning definitely helped. I'm probably missing other stuff, so just ask if you want additional information.

[Backpacker Joe]

Come on Gali, Im surprised you didnt climb Nanga in one day like you usually do?

[alpinelakes]

What's the prominence on those faces? 15,000'? The himalayas are so incredibly huge that they almost defy comparison...

[Magellan]

Wow! Great story and pictures. Heading back for the first four parts.

[Jim Dockery]

Excellent.

[Mark Griffith]

You did in fact save the best for last. Looks amazing! Sad the turmoil makes getting there more difficult.

[puzzlr]

Amazing. This can't be a very popular trip -- how did you manage to find a guide with such interesting connections?

[GaliWalker]

Thanks everyone! Glad you enjoyed the report(s).

[GaliWalker]

Trip logistics section added to end of first post.

[Mark Griffith]

Thanks for the Logistics. I still dream about flying into Islamasbad and driving to Khunjerab Pass and on through the Karakoram Highway to Urumqi but..... it seems like it might be too dicey.

[silence]

i've missed some of the parts i think? .. but OMG!!! this is mind blowing scenery ... glad it was you taking the photos

[GaliWalker]

Mark, unfortunately my friends only include non-photographer hikers, or photographers long past their hiker stage. It's quite stressful for me to be holding up people while I'm in photographer mode; I never seem to get any goods shots then. silence, thanks! The links for all the other parts are at the very top of each report.

[wildernessed]

Awesome !

[Kozaroza]

Fantastic - thank you for sharing! Its good to know that Pakistan can be relatively safe.

[Slim]

Stunning photos !