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Tom_Sjolseth
Born Yesterday



Joined: 30 May 2007
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Tom_Sjolseth
Born Yesterday
PostTue Sep 27, 2011 12:55 pm 
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A couple of years back, I read an article written by prolific local climber Jim Brisbine which, among other topics, briefly mentioned a list of difficult peaks that the late Dallas Kloke had communicated to him.  The Difficult 10 (as Mr. Brisbine would later coin it), is a list of major peaks in Washington whose summits are the hardest to reach by the easiest route.  An intriguing list to the aspiring peakbagger, this one is particularly so because of the fact that its criteria is so subjective - a concept that is a bit foreign to number-crunching listbaggers.  After all, just what exactly constitutes a “major peak”, and what do we consider “difficult”?  It would take someone who had climbed most or all of the major peaks to be able to accurately verify that the peaks were, in fact, the most difficult in the state.  Dallas Kloke - a highly respected, experienced, and accomplished local climber - had already done just that.   By the time I first saw the list, I had climbed a few of the peaks on it - some of them had already been on my radar.  Some of the other peaks were objectives that I hadn’t previously considered, but their inclusion on the list became the incentive for me to climb them.  The Difficult 10 seemed like a unique and ambitious accomplishment to shoot for, and its appeal to me was undeniable.  Over the next few years, I made it a goal to finish the list.

That quest culminated this past weekend when I climbed the last peak on the list, Burgundy Spire.  Looking back, climbing all the peaks on the list has been quite the adventure.  Some of the most scenic & spiritual, yet difficult moments of my entire life, were experienced while climbing the peaks on this list.  I’ve had fun times, encountered rare wildlife, found myself lost among fields of wildflowers, witnessed the beauty and raw fury of nature, challenged my body, mind, & spirit, spent quality times with good friends, and forged bonds and created powerful memories that I will have and be able to reflect on for the rest of my life.  I’d like to take some time to share a few of those moments from each climb here, and to look back on an exciting and fulfilling time in my life.

The original article on the list (and others) can be found here.  The link will look like an error at first, but wait for about 10 seconds and it will redirect you to the correct page.



The Difficult 10 (by Dallas Kloke)Washington’s Most Difficult Major Peaks to Climb by their Easiest Route

As there is no order to Kloke’s original list (as far as I can tell), I’m going to order them by difficulty here - as I rate them - from least difficult to most difficult.

#10) Burgundy Spire – Paisano Pinnacle W Ridge to the N Face of Burgundy Spire (IV, 5.9, 10p)

The tenth most difficult peak in Washington, Burgundy Spire is really an outlier of the Silver Star massif situated among the Wine Spires, just S of Burgundy Col.  This peak is an anomaly on the list in that it is the only peak with a crag-like approach and it’s also the only peak that requires 5.8 rock climbing to reach its summit.  Nevertheless, Burgundy Spire is an important peak, and its inclusion on the Difficult 10 list is definitely justified.  We wanted to add on Paisano Pinnacle to our agenda - supposedly the best long, moderate, alpine rock route at Washington Pass.  It wound up being a full, but stellar day of climbing for Sergio, Daniel, and I.


Starting up the first pitch.
Starting up the first pitch.
Daniel enjoying the fun (but short) twin cracks on pitch 5.
Daniel enjoying the fun (but short) twin cracks on pitch 5.
Me topping out above the cracks.
Me topping out above the cracks.
The fun 6th pitch of Paisano Pinnacle.
The fun 6th pitch of Paisano Pinnacle.
Topping out on Paisano.
Topping out on Paisano.
Me near the top of Paisano.
Me near the top of Paisano.
Looking down from the belay just below Paisano's summit.
Looking down from the belay just below Paisano's summit.
Looking down the N Face of Burgundy Spire,  about two pitches below the summit.  Burgundy Col below.
Looking down the N Face of Burgundy Spire,  about two pitches below the summit.  Burgundy Col below.
Enjoyable climbing on Burgundy Spire.
Enjoyable climbing on Burgundy Spire.
The fun (but short) crux off-width pitch on Burgundy Spire's N Face.
The fun (but short) crux off-width pitch on Burgundy Spire's N Face.
The giant chockstone tunnel on the traverse.
The giant chockstone tunnel on the traverse.
The 6th pitch of the N Face of Burgundy Spire.  This was the 10th pitch of climbing on the day for us between Paisano and Burgundy.
The 6th pitch of the N Face of Burgundy Spire.  This was the 10th pitch of climbing on the day for us between Paisano and Burgundy.
The view towards Chianti Spire and Silver Moon (T200) from the summit of Burgundy Spire.
The view towards Chianti Spire and Silver Moon (T200) from the summit of Burgundy Spire.
Silver Star from the summit.
Silver Star from the summit.

#9) Johannesburg Mountain – NE Rib (1951) (V, 5.7, 40 degrees)

The Triplets, Cascade Peak, and Johannesburg Mtn.  Photo courtesy of Steph Abegg.
The Triplets, Cascade Peak, and Johannesburg Mtn.  Photo courtesy of Steph Abegg.

Coming in at #9, Johannesburg Mountain harbors one of the most impressive and accessible faces in the state.  Its hanging glaciers and precipitous rock walls intimidate visitors to the Cascade Pass area.  According to an unknown source, the 7.5-minute quadrangle for Johannesburg is one of the steepest in the lower-48 states.  It is a serious mountain, one that requires excellent route finding and a blatant disregard for continual exposure to reach its summit.  The easiest route to the summit is the E Ridge (III, 5.5).

I have summited Johannesburg four times, once by the C-J Couloir, and three times by the 1951 NE Rib.


Trip reports:

1) C-J Couloir with Rob McDaniel and David Malkin.
2) NE Rib (1951) with Steph Abegg (Steph's report).
3) NE Rib (1951) with Wayne Wallace and Sergio Verdina.
4) NE Rib (1951) with Daniel Jeffrey.

We came up the CJ Couloir through wisps of low clouds on this ascent.
We came up the CJ Couloir through wisps of low clouds on this ascent.
Chunks of ice threatened.
Chunks of ice threatened.
But we kept climbing.
But we kept climbing.
Rob and David enjoying the sunshine and views.
Rob and David enjoying the sunshine and views.
Typical terrain on the lower E Ridge of Johannesburg.
Typical terrain on the lower E Ridge of Johannesburg.
The Middle Cascade River valley and Mt. Formidable.
The Middle Cascade River valley and Mt. Formidable.
Rob approaching the false summit of Johannesburg Mtn.
Rob approaching the false summit of Johannesburg Mtn.
Down climbing the E Ridge.
Down climbing the E Ridge.
Spider and Formidable.
Spider and Formidable.
Art's Knoll and Spider Mtn.
Art's Knoll and Spider Mtn.
Hurry-Up, Spider and Mix-Up.
Hurry-Up, Spider and Mix-Up.
Magic, Hurry-Up, and Spider.
Magic, Hurry-Up, and Spider.
Steph climbing the snow arete on the NE Rib.
Steph climbing the snow arete on the NE Rib.
The snow arete.
The snow arete.
Steph ascending the final snowfield below the summit of Johannesburg on the NE Rib.
Steph ascending the final snowfield below the summit of Johannesburg on the NE Rib.
Cascade Peak.
Cascade Peak.
The Triplets.
The Triplets.
Sergio and Wayne climbing the snow arete on my third ascent of Johannesburg.
Sergio and Wayne climbing the snow arete on my third ascent of Johannesburg.
Sergio climbing steep snow below the summit.
Sergio climbing steep snow below the summit.
Wayne climbing steep snow.
Wayne climbing steep snow.
Sergio and Wayne scrambling below the summit.
Sergio and Wayne scrambling below the summit.
Looking towards Hidden Lake Peaks.
Looking towards Hidden Lake Peaks.

#8) Mt. Index (North Peak) – North Face (IV, 5.7)

Mt. Index in Winter.  Photo courtesy of John Scurlock.
Mt. Index in Winter.  Photo courtesy of John Scurlock.

Mt. Index is definitely one of the most rugged peaks in the state, despite its low elevation.  It's also a unique peak for the purposes of our discussion, because two of its summits are on The Difficult 10 (North Peak, and Middle Peak).  Viewed from US2, Mt. Index is a striking massif of vertical walls and dizzying relief.  Its North and Middle Peaks seem improbable at a glance, but there are routes for those who are prepared to give it a try.  Have your ‘A’ game on this peak.


Trip report:

1) Index Traverse with Wayne Wallace.


Wayne scrambling low on the N Face.
Wayne scrambling low on the N Face.
Looking down from halfway up the N Face of N Index.
Looking down from halfway up the N Face of N Index.
US2 sits far below.
US2 sits far below.
Wayne in the amphitheater.
Wayne in the amphitheater.
I'm not sure how Wayne got that black eye.
I'm not sure how Wayne got that black eye.
Wayne climbing the incredible N rib.
Wayne climbing the incredible N rib.
Wayne topping out below the false summit of N Index.
Wayne topping out below the false summit of N Index.
Looking up to the summit of N Index.
Looking up to the summit of N Index.
N Index in the background, as seen from Middle Peak.
N Index in the background, as seen from Middle Peak.

#7) Mox Peak (SE Spire) – via the Ridge of Gendarmes (III, 5.6)

Mox Peaks.  John Scurlock photo.
Mox Peaks.  John Scurlock photo.

Having gained notoriety as the hardest peak on the Bulger Top 100 list, SE Mox Peak (AKA “Hard Mox”) is a steep, exposed mass of loose gneiss in the Chilliwack range just S of the Canadian border.  Its summit tower is imposing, and route finding is less than straightforward.  Nevertheless, the views from this lonely summit are impressive.  SE Mox is the only peak on the Bulger Top 100 that is also on The Difficult 10.


Trip report:

1) SE Mox via the Col of the Wild and the Ridge of Gendarmes with Don Beavon, Mike Collins, Don Duncan, and Roy McMurtrey.


The impressive Depot Creek Headwall.
The impressive Depot Creek Headwall.
Again.
Again.
Don Duncan and Roy McMurtrey at Ouzel Lake.
Don Duncan and Roy McMurtrey at Ouzel Lake.
Don Beavon and Mike Collins on the Redoubt Glacier.
Don Beavon and Mike Collins on the Redoubt Glacier.
Bear Mountain.
Bear Mountain.
Looking up towards Redoubt from the Redoubt Glacier.
Looking up towards Redoubt from the Redoubt Glacier.
Mox Peaks and the Ridge of Gendarmes.
Mox Peaks and the Ridge of Gendarmes.
The "Col of the Wild".
The "Col of the Wild".
NW Peak as seen from the Col of the Wild.
NW Peak as seen from the Col of the Wild.
Perry Glacier.
Perry Glacier.
Don Duncan climbing on SE Mox.
Don Duncan climbing on SE Mox.
Looking down from high on SE Mox.
Looking down from high on SE Mox.
Roy about to begin climbing.
Roy about to begin climbing.
Summit shot!
Summit shot!
Gendarmes.
Gendarmes.
Don Beavon.
Don Beavon.
The summit tower as seen from the notch in the Ridge of Gendarmes.
The summit tower as seen from the notch in the Ridge of Gendarmes.

#6) Mt. Fury (W Peak) – E Ridge via E Fury (IV, 5.6)

Mt. Fury as seen from Luna-Fury Col.
Mt. Fury as seen from Luna-Fury Col.

Mt. Fury is a relatively well-known, but infrequently climbed and legendary peak in the rugged Pickets Range.  The E summit is the usual objective for those venturing up, but the more remote W Peak is the true summit of Mt. Fury (by a matter of mere feet).  Mt. Fury involves a long & arduous approach, complex route finding, and miles of scrambling.  The easiest route up is probably from Pickell Pass (according to the late Roger Jung, who has climbed every established route on the peak).  Fay Pullen and I climbed W Fury after bivvying on the summit of E Fury the previous night.  We had a wonderful time all alone in one of the most remote spots in the lower 48 states, and were elated to stand atop this rarely visited summit.


Trip report:

1) Traverse from E Fury to W with Fay Pullen.


Fay and I at Luna Camp.
Fay and I at Luna Camp.
Luna Peak as seen from Access Creek.
Luna Peak as seen from Access Creek.
The S Pickets from the approach to Luna-Fury Col.
The S Pickets from the approach to Luna-Fury Col.
Mt. Fury.
Mt. Fury.
E Fury.
E Fury.
Fay climbing below E Fury.
Fay climbing below E Fury.
Fay's bivy spot on the summit of E Fury.  This was one of the most scenic spots I've ever spent the night.
Fay's bivy spot on the summit of E Fury.  This was one of the most scenic spots I've ever spent the night.
Sunset from E Fury.
Sunset from E Fury.
More sunset.
More sunset.
Fay traversing steep, icy snow on the way to W Fury.
Fay traversing steep, icy snow on the way to W Fury.
On the ridge crest.
On the ridge crest.
Challenger.
Challenger.
Lousy and Luna Lakes far below.
Lousy and Luna Lakes far below.
Fay scrambling above Upper Goodell Creek Valley.
Fay scrambling above Upper Goodell Creek Valley.
Steep rock on the ridge leading to W Fury.
Steep rock on the ridge leading to W Fury.
The summit register.  It was placed in 1958.
The summit register.  It was placed in 1958.
Looking back on the return to E Fury.
Looking back on the return to E Fury.
Fay - all smiles - with the S Pickets behind.
Fay - all smiles - with the S Pickets behind.

#5) Hozomeen Mountain (South Peak) – SW Face (IV, 5.6)

An unbelievable shot of Hozomeen Mountain's rugged South Peak.  Photo courtesy of John Scurlock.
An unbelievable shot of Hozomeen Mountain's rugged South Peak.  Photo courtesy of John Scurlock.

Hozomeen Mountain is a unique and very rugged double-hump summit on the N end of Ross Lake, on the western edge of the Pasayten Wilderness.  Some of the largest walls in the range reside on Hozomeen.  The S Peak is steep and exposed, and the rock is of dubious quality.  Any ascent of Hozomeen requires excellent route finding and an experienced party comfortable with loose rock and continual exposure.  Some attempts have been made on the huge walls of N Hozomeen's W Face (the largest unclimbed wall in the range), but they have thus far fallen short due to poor, hard-to-protect rock and very difficult climbing.


Trip report:

1) Southwest Face with Carla Schauble, Franklin Bradshaw, and Jeff Hancock.


Ross Lake.
Ross Lake.
The SW Peak of Hozomeen.
The SW Peak of Hozomeen.
N Hozomeen.
N Hozomeen.
Ross Lake and N Hozomeen.
Ross Lake and N Hozomeen.
Franklin on the ascent.
Franklin on the ascent.
Typical terrain on route.
Typical terrain on route.
Franklin and Carla scrambling high on S Hozomeen.
Franklin and Carla scrambling high on S Hozomeen.
Carla reaches for a hold.
Carla reaches for a hold.
The traverse to N Peak.
The traverse to N Peak.
Franklin poses on the summit.
Franklin poses on the summit.
The gang down climbing the summit block.
The gang down climbing the summit block.
Franklin, Carla, and Jeff.
Franklin, Carla, and Jeff.
The low-angle slabs near the base of the route.
The low-angle slabs near the base of the route.

#4) Inspiration Peak – S Face (IV, 5.8)

The sheer S Face of Inspiration Peak.
The sheer S Face of Inspiration Peak.

Inspiration Peak is an important, attractive summit in the S Pickets.  Its easiest route, the W Ridge, involves ascending a sketchy gully followed by multiple pitches of class 4 and low to mid-fifth.  Wayne and I climbed the S Face, an improbable route on a vertical to overhanging wall.  The climbing on the S Face was some of the sketchiest rock climbing I’ve ever done.  Wayne figured he’d add another element of difficulty to the climb by having us leave the rock shoes at home in the interest of saving weight.  Great idea, Wayne – you’re always thinking!


Trip report:

1) S Face with Wayne Wallace.


Wayne having a cup.
Wayne having a cup.
Ominous clouds over the Southern Pickets.
Ominous clouds over the Southern Pickets.
Interesting cloud patterns above the Terror Glacier.
Interesting cloud patterns above the Terror Glacier.
The sheer (and wet) S Face of Inspiration.
The sheer (and wet) S Face of Inspiration.
S Face.
S Face.
Looking towards the McMillan Spires.
Looking towards the McMillan Spires.
Wayne on route.
Wayne on route.
Wayne coming up to the top of the ramp pitch.
Wayne coming up to the top of the ramp pitch.
Looking up the ramp.
Looking up the ramp.
Looking E.
Looking E.
Wayne in the alcove at the base of the last chimney pitch.
Wayne in the alcove at the base of the last chimney pitch.
Rappelling the W Ridge.
Rappelling the W Ridge.
Still rappelling.
Still rappelling.

#3) Nooksack Tower – Beckey/Schmidtke (IV, 5.6)

Our route up Nooksack Tower.
Our route up Nooksack Tower.

Nooksack Tower, although having very little prominence to set it apart from Mt. Shuksan, merits its own spot on the list because of the lack of easy ways to reach its summit.  Climbing the easiest route on Nooksack Tower involves climbing very steep snow (60+ degrees) in a sluff-prone couloir, followed by multiple pitches of loose, exposed third to mid-fifth class climbing.  I enjoyed the company of Don "Peak Junkie" Beavon on this climb.  Don Beavon summited Mt. Everest in 1998, and made it to 8000m on K2 (without supplemental oxygen) at the tender young age of 50.  In the interest of safety, Don Beavon and I climbed a majority of the loose route unroped, and Don nearly bought the farm after breaking off a hold near the top of the route.


Trip report:

1) Beckey/Schmidtke Route with Don Beavon.
2) Beckey/Schmidtke Route with Eric Wehrly.


A memorial to a fallen climber (Rimas Gylys) on the approach.
A memorial to a fallen climber (Rimas Gylys) on the approach.
Nooksack Tower peers through the fog.
Nooksack Tower peers through the fog.
Nooksack.
Nooksack.
Ruth and Seahpo.
Ruth and Seahpo.
Seahpo Peak and Jagged Ridge.
Seahpo Peak and Jagged Ridge.
Closer.
Closer.
Views from around camp.
Views from around camp.
Nooksack Tower, the Price Glacier, and Mt. Shuksan in waning light.
Nooksack Tower, the Price Glacier, and Mt. Shuksan in waning light.
Nooksack Tower.
Nooksack Tower.
Don begins the ascent up the couloir.
Don begins the ascent up the couloir.
Don climbs steep snow in the snow couloir.
Don climbs steep snow in the snow couloir.
Don on route.
Don on route.
Don just below the summit of Nooksack Tower.
Don just below the summit of Nooksack Tower.
One of many traverses high on Nooksack Tower.
One of many traverses high on Nooksack Tower.

#2) Lincoln Peak – X-Couloir (IV, steep snow & ice)

Lincoln Peak's X-Couloir (SW Face).  Photo courtesy of John Scurlock.
Lincoln Peak's X-Couloir (SW Face).  Photo courtesy of John Scurlock.

Deserving of the #2 spot at the time of its inclusion, but probably now ousted by the FA of Assassin Spire, Lincoln Peak is one difficult summit to reach.  One of the intimidating Black Buttes on the flanks of Mt. Baker, Lincoln Peak’s climbing window is short.  In summer, it is a loose, dangerous, wildly steep mass of crumbling volcanic conglomerate.  The best time to climb it is when it is covered in snow, but with the route being south-facing, it is threatened by a constant barrage of ice and rockfall from above once the sun comes out.  Over the course of three attempts (only one of which was successful), I had two very close calls on this peak.  The best time to summit Lincoln is on a cloudy day that follows a cool, clear night.  There’s a reason why very few people have ever climbed this peak – it’s dangerous.


Trip reports:

1) X-Couloir (SW Face) with Fay Pullen, Mike Collins, and Paul Klenke.
2) X-Couloir (SW Face) with Mike Collins and Sean Martin.
3) X-Couloir (SW Face) with Paul Klenke, Fay Pullen, and Sean Martin.


Beautiful light on Twin Sisters Range.
Beautiful light on Twin Sisters Range.
A look up at the summit block of Lincoln Peak on our first attempt.
A look up at the summit block of Lincoln Peak on our first attempt.
Looking down, just above the bergschrund.
Looking down, just above the bergschrund.
A little higher.
A little higher.
Mike takes a quick break on our first attempt.
Mike takes a quick break on our first attempt.
Above the clouds.
Above the clouds.
Paul and Fay begin the first traverse.
Paul and Fay begin the first traverse.
Paul and Fay concentrating.
Paul and Fay concentrating.
Coming up the first snow arete.
Coming up the first snow arete.
Paul excavating ice for pro.
Paul excavating ice for pro.
Paul taking a barrage of ice from above.
Paul taking a barrage of ice from above.
Sean traversing across the first bowl on our second attempt.
Sean traversing across the first bowl on our second attempt.
Looking up the crux gully.  It's still awaiting its first ski descent.
Looking up the crux gully.  It's still awaiting its first ski descent.
Mike in a 12' deep avalanche runnel.
Mike in a 12' deep avalanche runnel.
Group summit shot.  Success!
Group summit shot.  Success!

#1) Mt. Index (Middle Peak) – Index Traverse (V, 5.9, 30+ pitches)


The towering North and Middle Peaks of Index as seen from the Main Peak.
The towering North and Middle Peaks of Index as seen from the Main Peak.

When you get to #1 on the list, you wind up here, at Mt. Index's Middle Peak, staring at the most difficult summit to reach in the state of Washington.  The Middle Peak of Index is not the tallest of the three Index peaks - in fact, along with N Index, it is among the two shortest peaks on this list.  But what Middle Index lacks in stature, it makes up for in bite.  The summit is nestled in snugly among sheer drops of up to 4500’ to the valley floor.  There is no easy way to the summit, and its level of difficulty is well above anything else on the list.  A successful ascent of the Middle Peak of Mt. Index will require every skill you’ve ever learned as a mountaineer, and you will be required to perform those skills at a high level.  I made two ascents of Middle Index, one via the complete N to S traverse, and one via the Main Peak and back again.  Both routes involve considerable climbing, extremely complicated and daunting route finding, and constant exposure and threat of rockfall.  There is no retreat from this climb, and the commitment factor is off the charts as far as Washington peaks go.  You will want to bring your ‘A’ game on this peak and have an equally strong and experienced partner.  The crux pitch on the traverse was one of the sketchiest pitches of rock I’ve ever climbed (5.9 - we took the most difficult crux variation possible thanks to Wayne's unwavering spirit of adventure - by comparison, the most technically difficult pitch of rock I've ever climbed was 5.10d).  Oh yeah, we did it in boots again in the interest of going light.


Trip reports:

1) Index Traverse with Wayne Wallace (Wayne's report).
2) Main to Middle and back with Franklin Bradshaw, Fay Pullen, and Mike Collins.

Looking down more than 4000’ to the valley below.
Looking down more than 4000’ to the valley below.
Wayne readying the rappel.  Notice the old tat behind.  None of it was fresher than 5 years old.
Wayne readying the rappel.  Notice the old tat behind.  None of it was fresher than 5 years old.
Steep traversing.
Steep traversing.
Wayne rappeling on the way to Middle Peak.
Wayne rappeling on the way to Middle Peak.
More downclimbing.
More downclimbing.
Gorgeous.
Gorgeous.
Views along the traverse from N to Middle Peak.
Views along the traverse from N to Middle Peak.
Relief
Relief
...
...
A long way down.
A long way down.
A view of the Middle Peak from the traverse.
A view of the Middle Peak from the traverse.
Wayne on the ridge crest.
Wayne on the ridge crest.
Good grief, more relief!
Good grief, more relief!
Wayne.
Wayne.
Middle to Main.
Middle to Main.
Sunset from our bivy spot.
Sunset from our bivy spot.
The view to the N from our Bivy.
The view to the N from our Bivy.
Routefinding our way to the Middle Summit.
Routefinding our way to the Middle Summit.
Wayne approaching the summit of Middle Index.
Wayne approaching the summit of Middle Index.
Steve who?
Steve who?
The Main Peak as seen from Middle Index.
The Main Peak as seen from Middle Index.
A little moat crawling between Middle and Main.
A little moat crawling between Middle and Main.
Running water below Middle and Main.
Running water below Middle and Main.
Wayne on solid rock.
Wayne on solid rock.
Wow!
Wow!
Lake Serene framed through the gap.
Lake Serene framed through the gap.

In the end, was it worth risking life and limb for ten measly summits?  The fact is, I wouldn’t give these experiences up for any price, and what I learned about myself through working on the list has given me skills that I can use in everyday life – not merely in my future mountaineering adventures.

More importantly, each of these climbs strengthened the bonds I already had with my climbing partners.  Climbing, making important decisions together, putting our lives in each others' hands, and sometimes even sharing a sleeping bag with each other (yes, in the interest of saving weight) creates the types of friendships that other facets of life just can't.  These experiences will be impossible to duplicate, but they are forever vivid memories that I will have the pleasure to reflect on in the years ahead.  There’s no question that these experiences have enriched my life, and I am a better man because of them.

Finishing the list is bittersweet as we mark the 1st year of Dallas' passing on the day I finished his list (September 25, 2011).  I never got to meet him, but respected and admired him merely from what I had read and heard.  Dallas was an accomplished Cascades mountaineer, and played a huge role in the development of the Mt. Erie climbing area.  According to close friends, Dallas was also an excellent family man and well-loved by anyone who ever met him - by all accounts, someone everyone can look up to.  Cheers, Dallas.   up.gif
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Yana
Hater



Joined: 03 Jun 2004
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Yana
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PostTue Sep 27, 2011 2:42 pm 
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Nicely summarized, Tom (and, of course, nicely done in climbing the peaks)! You did a great job including just enough information. Given the eventfulness of all of these trips, it was no doubt difficult to distill each one into a short paragraph or two.

up.gif  up.gif

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PLAY SAFE! SKI ONLY IN CLOCKWISE DIRECTION! LET'S ALL HAVE FUN TOGETHER!
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Jim Dockery
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Jim Dockery
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PostTue Sep 27, 2011 3:04 pm 
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Thanks, great goals for any WA climber  up.gif

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iron
getting old



Joined: 10 Aug 2008
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iron
getting old
PostTue Sep 27, 2011 3:15 pm 
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yeah, you're kind of the man. congrats on the difficult 10 (or should i say 11?)!

hope you're starting to prep for future endeavors with repeated ascents of the mighty box.  bawl.gif

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man, you go through life, you try to be nice to people, you struggle to resist the urge to punch 'em in the face, and for what?

--- moe sizlack
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Backpacker Joe
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Backpacker Joe
NWH Joe-Bob
PostTue Sep 27, 2011 3:34 pm 
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Strong body of work (of course only scratching the surface) especially for a young man.  Be careful out there TS.   up.gif

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"I won't be wronged, I won't be insulted, and I won't be laid a hand on. I don't do these things to other people and I require the same from them."

—Wayne's John Bernard Books in The Shootist
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Gimpilator
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Gimpilator
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PostTue Sep 27, 2011 4:34 pm 
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This is one of the most awesome posts I've seen on NWH.  Congratulations on finishing such an elite list!

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http://www.summitpost.org/user_page.php?user_id=25744
http://www.peakbagger.com/climber/ClimbListC.aspx?cid=2650&sort=elevft&u=ft&j=-1&y=9999

Keep climbing mountains and don't slip!
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raising3hikers
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Joined: 21 Sep 2007
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Location: Edmonds, Wa
raising3hikers
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PostTue Sep 27, 2011 4:41 pm 
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Thanks for posting Tom, it takes a lot of something? to tackle those kind of peaks up.gif

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Eric Eames
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Tazz
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Joined: 27 Apr 2005
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Tazz
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PostTue Sep 27, 2011 5:05 pm 
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Nice work Tom! Great list and good work doing the proper research and climbing to put it together.  up.gif
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puzzlr
Mid Fork Rocks



Joined: 13 Feb 2007
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Location: Stuck in the middle
puzzlr
Mid Fork Rocks
PostTue Sep 27, 2011 6:11 pm 
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My first thought was that this single post on nwhikers.net deserves a dedicated website, with amazing photos and reports to drive home this impressive set of ascents. Nice work, and thanks for taking the time to write it up here. I sure hope nwhikers is online for decades to come, because it would be a shame to lose reports like this to the ether.

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Mid Fork Rocksflickr
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wamtngal
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Location: Seattle, WA
wamtngal
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PostTue Sep 27, 2011 6:26 pm 
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In awe, Tom, in awe.  up.gif

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Opinions expressed here are my own.
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wayne1112
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wayne1112
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PostTue Sep 27, 2011 6:36 pm 
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Yes Tom needs a web-site. Where is the list of the 10 most difficult partners?
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dicey
custom title



Joined: 11 May 2004
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Location: giving cornices a wider berth
dicey
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PostTue Sep 27, 2011 6:46 pm 
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Nice job Tom!  A worthy list for sure up.gif

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I'm not always sure I like being older but being less stupid has advantages.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/32121172@N00/sets/
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Dansjolseth
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Dansjolseth
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PostTue Sep 27, 2011 7:14 pm 
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Wonderful post Tom.  I had no idea what I was creating when I first took you climbing.  Your exploits are amazing ....... and you left me in the dust years ago.
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dunker53
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Joined: 03 Oct 2008
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Location: Renton
dunker53
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PostTue Sep 27, 2011 7:18 pm 
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A tremendous accomplishment, Tom. The quality (and brevity) of your write-ups matches the quality and difficulty of the climbs. All the best on your future endeavors. Don
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PeakJunkie
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PeakJunkie
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PostTue Sep 27, 2011 7:25 pm 
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Great Stuff Tom!
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Forum Index > Trip Reports > Highlights of Climbing Washington's 10 Most Difficult Peaks
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