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Honey Badger Member
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39 hours of Dark
Dark Peak (8504’)
Solo Honey Badger trip
Oct 7-9, 2011
Far behind on trs, I thought I'd spit this one out. It was special...
I had this peak scheduled for mid-summer. Somehow it kept slipping by for other trips. Previous trip reports had the trip as a real “joy” of route finding and brush bashing -or was that alder wrestlin’?
Days slipping into fall the options for getting to the peak were diminishing. The Stehekin area (aka The Valley) was closing down for tourist for the season. Limited boat, limited shuttle, limited plane, none of which aligned anymore for getting up valley to bridge creek without a day or half day delay. No answers from the Stehekin info service, no taxis, The Ranch closed and the restaurant was even closing on Sunday. This was the last weekend option before it got even more difficult to get to the trailhead.
Just getting to the trailhead would have its pains.
leaving Chelan Stehekin arrival
A bit of a longer story, but I found myself at Stehekin with 42 hours to be back to catch a ride back down lake. A local offered a ride to the trailhead and I was hiking south on Agnes Creek trail by 5:25pm. A nice walk with rich fall colors and giant ancient trees. Not much the peak view department.
Entering the Wilderness –I liked this sign post Evening lights
By 5 Mile camp it got dark. I pushed on to Swamp creek (8:10p) took a left and 300’ from the trail found a flat spot to call home. For those going, pass the half buried Swamp Creek trail sign and 30 paces south is the start of the abandoned trail –or at least the best way in.
Half buried Swamp Creek sign. Best trail is another 30 paces south.
It was a nice dry eve, bright moon through the trees and stars appearing in the gaps between the trees. From camp I explored finding the trail near the creek going up into the woods with some visible tread at times and frequent blazes on the trees. A 1/8th mile and I returned to camp feeling good about at least knowing where to start in the morning.
I got a 5:50am start by headlamp from camp (c2850’). Followed the trail then lost signs of it around 3300’. Paul’s Summit Post page mentioned the trail traversing left at about 3700’. Well, you should be traversing left at 3350’ –found the trail on the way back. (BTW, the rest of his beta is spot on, thanks Paul!) So, a nasty-ass traverse at c3700’ to the creek, missed the log crossings from the Boulder field distraction and into the alder. I needed a morning “alder paste” tooth brushing… gag, yuk… Found the iced over upward sloping log to get my adrenalin going for the rest of the trip. Across the creek at c3700’ and up a couple hundred feet I found the trail (right turn to go up creek). The tread came and went through the mostly open woods. More gone than there and some times through slide alder swathes.
Swamp Creek and trail on left side of creek (really… not kidding)
At a point along the left side of the creek on flat ground and eviley (is that a word) growing tangle of brush and alder. Looked like a flat toad, but obliterated by overgrowth. Then up on the bank left side of the creek, past some debris from maybe an outfitters tent stove. Now down to cross a creek literally diving into more slide alder. This stuff was the real thing. Like a Harry Potter story, wrapping around the legs, feet and pack. Demoralizing and enough to send one turning and happily calling a bail. Not for the Honey Badger. I tried going up and over, but not a good call. Found better on the way back to go down to the stream bed and pull up at a washout area minimizing the alder to a short distance.
Water had frozen – nice it was only down to 40F at camp
10am and over an hour ago I’d seen my first view of sunlight on Dark Peak and after that a bit of the waterfall. Now I pushed the slide alder and vine maples aside to find myself in rich fall colors of the brushy lower basin.
First views of lower basin and waterfalls Into the frozen lower basin
Magnificent world class waterfall and plenty more brush to enjoy. To the right is a spot that looks likely for an ascent. All reports warned against it, so followed Pauls route going to the cliff then left up brush, talus. Past the cliffy and smaller trees following the bear tracks up. Ahead the sidehill turned into a gulley and higher up narrowed. C4650’ a route was obvious (fresh markings) to the right. So right and up 40-50’. The route steepened straight up, and I went right on a ledge with a deteriorating log for 100’ or so. Then switchback left and up to a flat ledge and trail going right at c5000’. The thiner brushed woods opened to thick short trees and avy fallen trees, dropped a hundred feet and opened to a wide open upper basin. Looked like a supreme place to camp. I can see why Pat, Don and crew camped here last year.
The upper basin (basin #2). From the upper Basin looking up the Dark Glacier and Dark Peak on the left. (The boulder left of center at the grass edge is about 20’ tall).
The sun was out and skis mostly clear. I could see my entire route in front of me. Could I remember the twists and turns to negotiate the slabs, boulders, moats and crevasses? I took notes (drawings).
The Dark Glacier. Goal, the saddle on the left.
Still early I was feeling lighter, I could do this (but the glacier did look intimidatingly steep from this angle). Across the wet basin, up the left lateral moraine and a break at the base of the snow to change to dry pants and crampons (10:45a).
Another look back on the upper basin from the top small basin
The snow started off low angle with 2-3” fresh on top. Then into a narrowing constraint slide from the fall of seracs a few thousand feet up. Blue ice chunks and firm snow. Zig left, zag right under rock. Thin snow on slab, then at right a zig left in deepening snow.
Glacier getting steep around 6600’
Steeper going up under a face at 7000’, Gees this seemed to be going on and on… After that face a right and jog a few crevasses and found an open one covered in 8” of fresh snow. I was marking each potential bridge and probing. One step at a time. Slower going, but time to keep alert and be safe. The marks would also help on the way down. Onward steepening even more toward another higher face. Under it left as the lower one. Traversed east then hung a right up across two more crevasses.
Only 500’ to go : )
Altimeter indicated only 500 more feet. This 500 took longer, altitude, steepness, crevasse avoidance and up final at the ridge. Well, not over the ridge, just at the ridge. A un-inviting moat and class 5 rock. I turned east and up a steep pitch to a moderate wide open and thinly (6”) snow covered rock ridge.
Almost at the ridge looking back down Swamp Creek At the saddle finl wide flat ridge to summit ridge
The view were stunning. No need to go further, but hell, It was 2:10pm and I was on schedule. The ridge was mellow, but a bugger with crampons on trying not to twist an ankle.
First Bonanza views The saddle top of the Dark Glacier
Topping off, and looking to the NE along the ridge a slightly higher point. Boulder hopping the final bit a happy the next high point was lower, it’d not be a fun one.
final ridge to the summit
I’d done it, well, almost half of it, it’s a big part just the getting down. A beautiful day, sunshine and stunning views. I felt Like Zeus looking down on the world far below. The Swamp Creek valley a blaze in fall colors and inviting sunlight. Bonanza along a ridge to the south, Dome and Sinister behind. Stunning lighting on YES! Peak (aka Glacier Peak), Devore creek peaks east, Inspiration to Goode peaks north… I felt I was in the center of the universe.
Dome and Sinister Golden Larch on the NW flank of Bonanza Bonanza and Martin Peaks Devore creek peaks in the center (Tupshin, White Goat, Devore, WyNorth… Martin on right). martin Peak Inspiration Glacier peaks (Eldorado) to Goode. Baker in the far back Looks like winter to the south
Food, pictures, more pictures, puffy jacket and some substantial digging to find the summit cairn and on its north side a brass Mountaineers register.
SUmmit reg under the cairn (lower left)
The signatures were almost all very familiar, except a couple NOLs groups.
Reg pg 1 Reg pg 2 Reg pg 3 Reg pg 4 Reg pg 5
I guess you have to be crazy and doing the Bulgers list to go through all the hassles to get here. Down lower I had doubts. Now on the summit, more than the satisfaction of summiting, this was a spectacular point. And the way up many scenic rewards building. Just enough to keep it a great ascent.
YES! Peak (aka Glacier Peak) Eldorado Stormking, Goode and Black
Keeping on schedule I started down at 2:45. The steep sections trick with the new top layer giving way. Careful and slow, not wanting to slip toward the crevasses. All the way down I watched the sun in the upper basin. By the time I got to the basin it was in shadows.
Can I get to the basin while there is still sun? Upper basin in shadows… darn, missed the sun.
I retraced back to the cliffs and tried a recent bear track (knocked down brush) angling down and more toward the center of the lower basin. I left the lower basin along the streambed to avoid alder bashing. As I back tracked, my goal was to get across the log and as much trail toward camp before dark. Dark comes quick in the deep woods…
It was harder to find where I had come in than I thought walking out. I kept the creek nearby and kept an eye for the talus slope on the other side. I found where the old trail went through the alder, wish I’d found that coming in. By the time I saw the talus the trail was pretty nice (ignoring the blowdowns). Saw cuts through giant windfalls and good tread. When the trail vanished I followed a track to the creek to pass a 4-5’ diameter log that reached to the talus slope on the other side.
The weir as seen coming up creek
Just upstream of the weir another younger ( and large) log crossing direct to the trail. Now elated to summit in the sun and a fine creek crossing before dark I high tailed it down the trail. Lost it several times at large windfalls, then found again as it traversed leftish c35-3400’. After a long stretch I lost the trail as it started to get dark, darn! I was at 3350’, hey, the same place I lost the trail on the way up. A little zig zagging and I found the scuff marks I made on the way up, so I could find my track back. No bread crumb track for me: )
I found camp 20minutes after sunset. Feeling ready for some mindless easy flat trail, I packed camp and headed out. In an hour passed 5 mile camp. Still feeling good I kept going. The moon was out casting eerie lighting in the forest. If the forecast was right I wanted to put the miles behind me while it was dry. About 2.5 miles before the trailhead I found a nice flat camp spot just past a creek and decided to call it a day. That’s a 15h40min day.
Late night I imagined I heard rain, I smiled, I’d had a good trip with sun, and it was only an hour or so out. Then a dream that it was mid-day with the tent lit by the sun. Damn, I’ll miss the bus… waking, the light was just the bright moon. Whew! Back to sleep.
morning sun Crossing the Agnes Creek bridge Agnes Creek (down stream) Agnes Creek (upstream) Agnes Creek TH
Being close to the trailhead I was able to sleep in and have a casual walk out with stops to take in the morning sunrise views. High Bridge gorge is very scenic and I had nearly an hour to wander around in the morning sun checking it out.
High Bridge Stehekin River from the bridge More high bridge FS camp waiting for the bus
Soon David walked down the road. He was on his last 80 miles to finish his trek of the PCT. We talked and some of his good thoughts stuck. The trips are nice for scenery, but with the PCT being in the valley so much without views, it’s the side adventures and people you meet that make the trip.
David and I at Rainbow falls
This trip was great for the meeting of Jim for the ride, his wife admiring her new refer sitting on the dock waiting, for the generous and cheerful bus driver, the cozy feeling at the bakery, the group waiting for their first seaplane ride down lake and for David’s shared thoughts. The weekend had gone by all too fast. I felt a calm gazing out the window as the plane accelerated for takeoff.
glassy water My ride awaits reflecting on the weekend and the last couple years typical lake shore view
Bright yellow fall colors reflected in the glassy lake surface. Like time standing still for a brief moment. 41 hours ago I was landing in choppy waters not knowing if the weather would be turning me back short. The past couple years have gone by fast too. Have any of you been counting? Dark Peak was #99. An odd feeling to think that one more peak and I’d finish the Bulgers list. Then what? Do them all again on skis? Or by different route? Most likely time to find pleasure in all those other destinations on my own personal list.
BTW, anyone I haven't told figured out what #100 will be? Hint, cervesa and tequila : )
Thanks for reading and Happy Trails!
Franklin
Stats:
Day 1 PCT; 7.8m, +1624’, -501’, 2h50min
Day 2 Climb; 5.3m, +5870’, -240’
Day 2 down; 5.3m, +240’, -5870’
Day 2 PCT; 5.1m, +200’, -824’
Day 2, total: 15.7m, 6310’, -6934’, 15h45min
Day 3 PCT; 2.7m, +306’, -850’, 1h15min
Total: 26+miles, 8240’, -8340’
Gear: rain gear, crampons, ice ax, maps, tent, beta and luck –oh, money for food at the bakery
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Tom_Sjolseth Born Yesterday
Joined: 30 May 2007 Posts: 2652 | TRs | Pics Location: Right here. |
Wow, this is an excellent TR! Super shots of the glacier and all the fresh snow. Dark Peak is one of my favorite spots anywhere.
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honey badger Member
Joined: 03 Jul 2007 Posts: 146 | TRs | Pics Location: Mukilteo |
Thanks,
Yeah Tom, I think same here. All the complaining I hear had me wondering. It's one of those peaks you work for your payoff. And it gives a grand pay off. For tose yet to go, definitely do on a sunny day(s)... Of all the peaks, Dark had it all. Ancient forest, rivers, gorges, moon light, milkyway, brush, fall colors, scrambling, alpine basins, glaciers and stunning views.
Oh, FYI, for those thinking of going in plan at least four days to enjoy the trip.
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iron Member
Joined: 10 Aug 2008 Posts: 6391 | TRs | Pics Location: southeast kootenays |
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iron
Member
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Tue Oct 11, 2011 6:50 pm
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you're so impressive franklin. your last 3 years of bulger list peaks (and others like index) is simply remarkable. i recall reading your black peak TR - 2009 i think. i believe you said that was #13. now, in 2 days, you're at #100. unparalleled! best of all: incredibly detailed TRs with tremendous pictures and memories.
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RichP Member
Joined: 13 Jul 2006 Posts: 5628 | TRs | Pics Location: here |
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RichP
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Tue Oct 11, 2011 7:07 pm
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Honey Badger wrote: | BTW, anyone I haven't told figured out what #100 will be? Hint, cervesa and tequila : ) |
A Spanish teacher would guess either Lago or Luna .
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honey badger Member
Joined: 03 Jul 2007 Posts: 146 | TRs | Pics Location: Mukilteo |
Nice quesses. Minor that Luna isn't on the Bulger list -but a nice peak in itself (done July 13, 2010 -see Matt's tr)
And Lago another good one I'd forgotten about (done July 24, 2010 -my overly wordy tr)
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RichP Member
Joined: 13 Jul 2006 Posts: 5628 | TRs | Pics Location: here |
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RichP
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Tue Oct 11, 2011 7:32 pm
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silence Member
Joined: 25 Apr 2005 Posts: 4420 | TRs | Pics
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silence
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Tue Oct 11, 2011 8:01 pm
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PHOTOS
FILMS
Keep a good head and always carry a light bulb. – Bob Dylan
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Magellan Brutally Handsome
Joined: 26 Jul 2006 Posts: 13116 | TRs | Pics Location: Inexorable descent |
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Magellan
Brutally Handsome
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Tue Oct 11, 2011 9:07 pm
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Simply amazing. Congratulations FWB on all the accomplishments this year.
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wamtngal Member
Joined: 13 Jun 2004 Posts: 2382 | TRs | Pics Location: somewhere |
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wamtngal
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Tue Oct 11, 2011 9:19 pm
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So very impressive! Nice work, Franklin.
Opinions expressed here are my own.
Opinions expressed here are my own.
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jasondowns Member
Joined: 30 Aug 2011 Posts: 30 | TRs | Pics
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Great trip report and pics! Brings back great and not so great memories! Congrats on nearing the completion of the list. Look forward to hearing about #100
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Pikawhisperer Wag More, Bark Less!
Joined: 14 Sep 2011 Posts: 441 | TRs | Pics Location: Somewhere in a lookout |
WOW!!! Amazing! What a great trip. Thanks for sharing
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Stefan-K Member
Joined: 10 Aug 2009 Posts: 522 | TRs | Pics Location: seattle |
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Stefan-K
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Tue Oct 11, 2011 10:38 pm
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been wondering what you've been up to... nice one!
but Luna, is it not on the list? You know, somewhere between cerveza y tequila...
Will you be skiing that last one? Want company?
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ale_capone Member
Joined: 22 Sep 2009 Posts: 717 | TRs | Pics
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WOw.. The honey badger don't give a sh##. he's bad ass!
Aye chiwawa!!!
Knocking that list down(and a ton of others) in two years while holding a job is pretty impressive.
If in you are going back to ski them all, I'd like to join you. only 84 to go for me.
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honey badger Member
Joined: 03 Jul 2007 Posts: 146 | TRs | Pics Location: Mukilteo |
You got it right... Woof, or is that yip, yip yip...? Chiwawa it is. And soon, since the T100 party is next week.
Just checked and this year was the highest ratio of T100 to non-T100 peaks bagged, but still less than 50% of this years peaks.
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