[RichP]

The Domuyo is a peak of volcanic origen located in a sub range of the Cordillera de los Andes called La Cordillera del Viento (wind) in the extreme north of Neuquen Province, Argentina. It is aptly named since this area experiences some of the highest winds in Patagonia which is notorious for strong winds. El Domuyo is called "el techo de la Patagonia" or the roof/ceiling of Patagonia since it is the region's highest peak at 4709 meters or 15,450.' http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Domuyo I teamed up with two friends from Buenos Aires, Leopoldo, with whom I traveled two years ago, and Pablo, a fellow that we met during that trip in a hostel in San Martin de los Andes. After some e-mailing throughout the northern hemisphere summer, we arranged a trip together. We had the good fortune of having a 4-wheel-drive vehicle at our disposal this time which helped make the approaches much easier and less costly since there was no need to contract a local driver. After the 1000-mile drive from the city, we arrived to the small town of Chos Malal which would serve as our base of operations. This part of Patagonia is not very well known, even by Argentines. The economy of the area is dominated by oil fields, sheep and goat herding. A few fly fishermen and the odd andinista could be seen milling about town as well. As we were coming from sea-level, we decided to do some acclimatizing by hiking up a couple of mountains prior to attempting El Domuyo, which is about 1000 ft higher than our Mt Rainier. Our first peak was the Cerro Wayle. A Cerro is a peak that is not a volcano. Sometimes peaks are called both cerro and volcan to make things confusing, as is the case with El Domuyo. We drove the 50km to the base of Wayle where a small ski area is located at about 2260 meters. This was to be a dayhike and we would camp at the ski area that night.

Pablo's Toyota and Argentine flag

Ski area and Volcan Tromen.

El Volcan Tromen 13,051'

Small ski area on Cerro Wayle.

Heading up

Ski area below from slopes of Cerro Wayle

Tromen

Volcan Tromen

Taking a break on route

El Volcan Tromen and lava flows (escorriales)

Towards summit of Cerro Wayle

Summit ridge of Cerro Wayle

Summit cairn on el Cerro Wayle 3296 meters (10,813')

Patriotic summit group

These cacti are in many places above 3000 meters in the Andes

Flowers near summit of Cerro Wayle

Camping at ski area below Cerro Wayle

The following morning we drove a few kilometers across the valley to hike/climb the Tromen Volcano at just under 4000 meters which is one of the higher points in the Cordillera del Viento. Our intention was to camp at the same height as the Cerro Wayle, about 10,500', but the lack of water and rugged terrain made us choose a lower camp in a meadow at about 9500.' I had time to take a walk a few hundred feet up for some good views of the summit and all the lava fields that we would cross the following day.

Tromen volcano

Goat herder's summer residence

Lava flows on Tromen

Looking back at the Cerro Wayle from el Tromen

Lava flows (escoriales)

Cerro Wayle from base of Tromen volcano

looking towards summit of Tromen

out for an evening stroll before bed

Wayle

Getting ready for the night at camp at about 9500' on Tromen volcano

The following morning was perfect and we set off for the summit of Tromen.

Cerro Wayle and Laguna Tromen. The laguna is declared as a wildlife refuge and is an important bird sanctuary.

Leopoldo scrambling on rocks

El Cerro Wayle and laguna Tromen. This entire area is a protected natural area and bird sanctuary.

This stuff is tough on a pair of boots (escoriales)

Lots of lava fields to cross before the summit

Nearing the summit plateau of el Volcan Tromen

Summit of el Volcan Tromen

Tromen Negro and part of the Cordillera del Viento.

Summit register with varying elevations.

San Expedito, the saint of urgent causes.

Summit crater

Summit marker on el Volcan Tromen

Volcanic landscape

Laguna Tromen and el Cerro Wayle. In the background el Domuyo is visible.

Crater and lake

Tromen Negro, another volcano in the cordillera del viento

Heading back down through escoriales from summit of Tromen

Evening at camp with full moon

We had parked Pablo's car next to the house of some goat herders who were not home at the time and left a note explaining our intention to climb el Tromen. Though this area is a protected area similar to a wilderness area in the US, these people are allowed to continue with their traditional activities since they were here long before such a refuge/reserve was ever contemplated. We were surprised to find the family waiting for us when we came down with a meal fit for a king. They had slaughtered one of their goats that morning and called us over to join them in a feast. Though complete strangers, we were treated as family and enjoyed the experience immensely.

The poor goat that made the ultimate sacrifice. We were surprised with a meal upon descending by a family of goat herders from the area. Wonderful people with huge hearts!

Raimundo, the patriarch of the family, born and raised within sight of this summer residence, still carries on the tradition of goat herder (puestero). He opened his heart and home to complete strangers.

Family and neighbor of Raimundo

Preparing the goat for guests

Pablo enjoying barbequed goat (chivo asado) yum!

Feasting with Raimundo's family. Maria cuts her excellent homemade bread.

After stuffing ourselves on delicious goat and saying our goodbyes to Raimundo and family, we headed back to Chos Malal for a shower and hotel. The next morning we traveled north for several hours along dirt roads through the small towns of Las Ovejas and Varvarco to reach the trailhead for El Domuyo called El Playon (the big parking lot). This was at about 2400 meters and we would walk the 4 hours to base camp at about 3100 meters. The wind was howling like mad but we had read the forecast which stated that the weather would improve for the next few days.

Los tres amigos at el Playon 2400 meters (7874'), the trailhead to el Domuyo, the highest point in Patagonia.

Approach valley

Approach valley

Pablo "El Pela" looking Hollywoodesque.

Approaching el Domuyo

El Domuyo from base camp at about 3100 meters (10,170')

Our home for the night

El Domuyo "el techo de la Patagonia"

One of several tarns around base camp

El Domuyo from base camp

base camp

Glaciers on el Domuyo

Base camp

The massive Domuyo with glaciers

In the morning we packed up and moved to high camp at 3800 meters were we spent two nights to play it safe. Fossils were everywhere and the weather had indeed improved.

Packing up at base camp

Pablo and Leopoldo making their way up with a view of tarns around base camp

Upwards from base camp with tarns below

Pablo arriving to high camp 3,800 meters (12,467')

El Domuyo

El Tromen in the distance

looking southwards

views on the way to high camp

Sea fossils

Evidence of a long gone ocean were everywhere

The way up from high camp

Domuyo glaciers

High camp

High camp, 3800 meters

El Tromen from el Domuyo

La Cordillera del Viento, a sub range of the Andes

Two glaciers on el Domuyo

Summit ridge from high camp

Glacier from Base camp

Views over to Chile from high camp

On the morning of the fouth day we were on the go by 6:00am with very little wind and mild temperatures.

Early morn

Dawn on El Domuyo

Taking a break on the way up

Pablo admiring the scenery. No wind and relatively warm temperatures.

Pablo taking in the views in early morning light

We reached the point called la montura (the saddle) which is the only difficult part of the climb. This is about a 300-400 ft section with an incline of up to 65 degrees that is composed of scree, loose dirt and falling rocks. With my experience in the Cascades, this was nothing new, but I was especially concerned about rockfall as it was early morning. We tried to get through this section as quickly as possible and did so without incident. Taking turns looking up for falling rock while the others ascended worked well. Fortunately we had our helmets.

Nearing la montura, a steep slope at about 4,200 meters

Monument to deceased climber below la montura

Nearing "la montura" (the saddle)

Looking up at the most complicated part of the ascent, "la montura" (the saddle) a 300-ft section composed of scree and sand with a slope up to 65 degrees. Rockfall was the worst part of this section as it was early morning.

La montura

Pablo and Leopoldo at the top of "la montura"

Leopoldo, content to be off "la montura"

The rest of the climb was a piece of cake other than dealing with the altitude which made the going slow.

Summit plateau. The actual summit is not visible yet as it is set back a bit

The rest is an easy stroll

downslope

Pablo "el Pela" looking good

Summit reflected on Leopoldo's sunglasses

Nieve penitentes

penitentes and glacier

Closer to summit plateau. The air is quite thin here and movement is slow

Last section before summit plateau

Leopoldo just below summit

Views south

El Volcan Tromen in the distance

Looking down at the Cordillera del Viento (range of wind)

Summit of El Domuyo, 4709 meters (15,450')

Summit plateau and small frozen lake

Blood, sweat and tears on the summit of El Domuyo

Summit plateau and lake

glacier to the west

Deep valley

Summit area north

summit plateau looking east

Summit plateau

Vistas to Chile

Leopoldo y yo

Pablo, a true Argentine

West

Summit group

summit plateau

Of course we had to descend la montura. Rockfall was very minimal by that time of the day though.

Coming down la montura. Not nearly as bad as going up. Rockfall was minimal in the afternoon.

We walked all the way back to the trailhead at el Playon and drove into Las Ovejas where we again experienced the hospitality of a local who opened her house to us as there was nowhere to spend the night in town.

Trailhead sign at el playon. "Mules for hire."

Claudia, who opened her house to us in Las Overas

It was a wonderful trip that allowed me to see another side of the country. The warmth of the people in the small towns and the companionship of Leopoldo and Pablo struck me even more than the beauty of the region. Though I've been coming to Argentina for the past 20 years and lived here for about 5 years, I have never felt closer to the people and this place that I consider my second home.

[bobbi]

congratulations! i totally enjoyed reading your TR as snow is falling like crazy here in port angeles! what hospitality the Argentines offered 3 strangers! perfecto! awesome landscape.... can't wait to head to patagonia, hopefully by dec 2012/jan 2013

[mbtigger]

Sounds like some very nice people , and an amazing landscape. Maybe someday I will be able to head there - At one time I was supposed to head to Chile on an extended business trip, and was looking forward to hiking down there. That never came to pass..

[roadtripmom]

What a lovely adventure. The people there sound like happy souls indeed. Thank you for sharing !

[Slugman]

I feel honored to own a tent you once owned. Thanks for the report and pictures from the "other down under". Truly awe-inspiring.

[El Puma]

Awesome adventure! Traveled though Patagonia extensively but not in that corner. Glad to see the people's hospitality hasn't changed much since the mid-90's. Cheers and thanks for the report from faraway places!

[Get Out and Go]

Thanks for the interesting report on a seldom-reported area, Rich. Que aventura!

[Ski]

incredibly hostile-looking environment up there... looks like it would tear up some shoe soles. after seeing the rocks piled up in "Our home for the night", I will no longer make any apologies for the puny little windbreaks I build on gravel bars for my stove.

[the Zachster]

That's some serious wilderness! Looks like water could be an issue? Great story and pics to match, thank you!

[Tigerotor77W]

Congrats on your success! Seems like it was a great time.

[iron]

looks like you had some of the same rough patagonian weather we did. nice work on the peak and it looks like quite the gracious community there - as we experienced as well.

[mike]

I'd love to have a vehicle (necessary) to explore that area.

[Redwic]

NICE!!!

[puzzlr]

Totally captivating -- thanks for putting the work into all the captions, which turns a bunch of pictures into a story.

[RichP]

Thanks for the comments everyone. Puzzlr, I'm not sure I know enough about the geology of the area to answer your question accurately. We found the fossils on El Domuyo which also has geysers and hotsprings though we didn't visit that part of the mountain. My impression is that it is not all that unusual to find fossils on the higher peaks in the area that have experienced some kind of dramatic uplift as is the case in volcanoes. This area is also a kind of dinosaur alley and petrified forests are located nearby as well. The Tromen volcano is said to have erupted some 1500 years ago as is evidenced by all the fresh looking lava flows. A really unusual area for those who like vulcanism is La Payunia in nearby southern Mendoza: http://www.welcomeargentina.com/malargue/la-payunia-provincial-reserve.html Here are a couple more pics of some fossils from el Domuyo:

Fossils on Domuyo

Fossils on Domuyo

The blood, sweat and tears is merely a reference to the effort Pablo made to summit. He experienced all of those things, and like most Argentines, he is not afraid of his heart and is very expressive. I'm looking forward to your report, iron. I hope you guys had a blast.