Forum Index > Trip Reports > 43 days in south america (argentina, uruguay, chile)
 Reply to topic
Previous :: Next Topic
Author Message
iron
Member
Member


Joined: 10 Aug 2008
Posts: 6391 | TRs | Pics
Location: southeast kootenays
iron
Member
PostFri Jan 20, 2012 10:00 pm 
first, did this:
then, starting december 4, we set off for argentina. the entire blog i kept is found here. all pictures are found here. if you have any questions, please feel free to ask within this thread. day 1 14hrs of flying and some layover time later, we were in buenos aires.
day 2 hit up some parks in buenos aires. saw several dog walkers. attended a free concert. ate our first argentine steak.
day 3 took a ferry to colonia, uruguay - barely. the taxi driver knew not where to go. enjoyed the peace and quiet there before busing for 3 hrs to uruguay's capitol of montevideo.
day 4 bused another 3hrs, this time from montevideo to the quiet beach town of la paloma. awesome beaches and warmth. almost no people.
day 5 a full day of beach lounging. don't forget to put sunscreen on the tops of your feet! made dinner on the beach.
day 6 bus back to montevideo to grab a flight to mendoza. arrived, accidentally, 7hrs too early for the flight. somehow, the check-in person held the current flight, got us to the front of the line for customs, and we somehow boarded the early flight. day 7 met a very friendly stray dog. he loved us deeply until we went into the grocery store. walked all around town. many clean parks. very friendly people. lots of hummingbirds. good, young malbec wines from mendoza's wine country.
day 8 wine country day. took a bus for a few pesos. rented bikes from mr. hugo and off we went. dusty roads. nearly empty wineries (read: private wine tasting essentially). do the olive oil tour; best tour we had this day.
days 9-12 took a scary bus ride (cheap though) nearly to the border of chile. got dropped off in los penitentes. found a bridge to cross the river; really sketch bridge. camp at 10k near an old refugio. hiked up los penitentes (14,500'+). very colorful rocks all around. clear views of aconcagua. dead cows and horses in most of the creeks; not good for drinking water confidence. lots of condors high above in the sky. exited. crossed another sketch bridge. walked the road towards the chilean border. headed up a valley one ridge removed from the national park. cool area. lots of waterfalls. crazy colorful water.
day 13 back in mendoza. ate a sampler meat plate - not recommended unless you like brain or intestines stuffed with some gooey crap. took 12 hr bus ride to nequen.
day 14 another bus (6hrs) to junin de los andes. beautiful part of the world. our goal was to climb lanin, but forecasts called for new snow (on glaciers) and winds of 110kmh. no go. hung out in town. enjoyed our time. left.
day 15 arrived in el bolson. great spot for a town tucked in a valley with glaciated peaks on either side of it. late arrival resulted in walking around. hanging out with our buff necked ibis friend.
days 16-18 did a refugio loop hike out of el bolson. 1950's style school bus dropped us off in some place called wharton. it goes once a day, a few times a week. kind of random. saw tons of calafete berries --- tasty. incredibly blue waters. first refugio had one of the nicest gardens we've ever seen (and in the mountains!). good homemade cerveza and food. next day, rainy and snowy - on the summer solstice. cut it short after a few hours of hiking at the next refugio. freezing cold here. eventually, the fire barrel warmed us up, but just barely. by the next morning, 8" of snow had fallen. hiked out through a snowy forest.
day 19 took a bus from el bolson up to lago puelo. awesome, awesome spot. tres picas with its glaciers towers over this mountain lake (that you easily drive/bus to). lots of trails. nice prairies. hidden cherry trees (with tons of ripe cherries). very peaceful on this midweek visit.
day 20 christmas eve. took a bus to bariloche - kind of the center of the lakes district. attended a christmas mass (in spanish). returned to our hostel to have dinner with its owner, his family, and some others staying there that night. even got to watch the kids open a few presents. fireworks all throughout town at midnight.
days 21-22 another refugio hike, this time near bariloche, and this time, we didn't stay in any of the refugios. took a bus out of town to lago gutierrez. walked 4km of road and then the rest trail. dry and dusty start. then up a drainage with a nice creek and forest. finally, the alpine zone offered tremendous views. clearest lakes i've ever seen. unreal. even with the recent ashfall from the nearby erupting volcano. perfect temps. lots of horseflies, but they're kind of slow down south. bamboo everywhere. made a loop that's normally recommended as a 3 day trip in 2 days. hitched a ride out at the exit spot - thankfully - as the road was not interesting and the notion of steak strongly appealed to us.
day 23 spent the daytime in bariloche eating ice cream, empanadas, and tortes. sat by the big lake in town - nahuel huapi. so big and clear and calm. a 14 hr bus ride consumed the rest of the day, eventually arriving in puerto madryn. day 24 rented a car and headed for punto tombo - the home of the penguin colony. watched penguins for many hours. they sneeze, scratch, and make weird sounds all day long. interesting guys. had my first experience at a tea house in gaiman --- lots of sugar in the system. late night arrival for on-street camping in puerto piramides.
day 25 headed towards peninsula valdez. beat the crap out of the rental car on hundreds of miles of gravel roads that occasionally high-center your vehicle. watched the sea lions and seals for hours. even saw a new-born sea lion (hours old?). scored some sweet, free atlantic ocean beach camping.
day 26 back to puerto madryn. had a surprisingly nice swim and beach walk in town. really nice beach. thousands of jellies (the non stinging kind) that kids pick up and throw at each other. otherwise, kind of a catch up day. day 27 short bus and short flight to el calafete. definitely a mecca of younger people with backpacks. overly crowded while we were there because of the temporary fire closure of torres del paine. bought some groceries. learned the town. made some steaks. went out for new years eve. good drinks. good desserts. walked back just before midnight and the entire town celebrated with big fireworks. day 28 2hr bus ride to perito moreno glacier. the famous one that calves off chunks of ice at a regular interval. pretty awesome, despite what appears to be a highly tourist-ed area. you can find peace and quiet here if you find the right spots.
days 29-31 headed to el chalten. perhaps the most perfectly situated climbing town there is. more people walking the streets with backpacks than cars driving. we wanted to be away from bigger crowds, so after the big speech about no fires from the HQ staff (in light of the TdP fire), we headed off to laguno toro. okay walk from town. okay forest. made it to camp, along with 10 other tents, well before dark, which was good given our late start. winds that night like i've never heard before. the skies were angry! we tried hiking up to the icecap, but were stopped at a cable line crossing a box canyon. definitely needed a harness. we retreat, head up to a pass that on the map, reads: "guide recommended." no sweat getting up. first clean views of fitz roy. sat and enjoyed that moment. then descend to lago torre. the map shows another rope crossing, like the one before, but hotpantz says she sees two ropes. perfect. wel'll cross in the morning. camped nearby (not legal), then the next morning realized we'd not be crossing the river outlet here. waited 3hrs, hoping for some guides to cross. nope. decided to tease out an escape route along the river outlet. eventually picked up a nice trail not on a map. beautiful fields of blowing grass, clover, and "weeds" (aka dandelions) forced me to stop and imbibe the beauty. lost the trail, but worked our way back over to the trailhead.
day 32 after our exit from day 31, we started hiking into the next area around 8pm. plenty of daylight still. we made it to lago capri where i found one of the last spots for a tent among some 50 other tents. we drank a 1L cerveza and watched the sun set over fitz roy. the next morning, we hiked up to a lake at the base of fitz roy. beautiful montana-like valleys before the climb to the lake. the views up close to fitz roy are like none i've ever seen. they singlehandedly inspire me to climb more. couldn't spend as much time as desired here (bus left at 6:30p), but it was still awesome.
days 34-37 got news that TdP was open again. which part, we weren't sure. but, had to try. found out it was the northern portion. we first hiked the right part of the "W" trek - basically a valley walk that eventually scrambles up to a lake at the base of the torres. we added a little more on with a pleasant and oddly exposed ridge walk (no path). far better views than the standard stopping point.
after the dayhike, we regroup in "town" and headed out to start the northern part of the circuit. kind of a lousy road walk to start. after awhile, it got better with fields of daisies as far as you could see. add in a gorged river basin and bright spiky green plants, and it was decent. made it to camp dickson the next day. dinner overlooking a lake with a glacier. winds picked up quickly there. the next day, hotpantz did a solo jaunt up the next valley while i slept and let me feet rest. then, we hiked back to camp seron and then out the next day to grab the bus back to el calafete.
day 38 stocked up on stuff, left el calafete for ushuaia early. did a random bus transfer in the middle of nowhere. next bus took us to a ferry. boarded via the bus. crossed the choppy, windy strait of magellan. arrived in the southernmost city in the world and went out for some good cervezas.
day 39 took a taxi to the end of a road. dayhiked up to laguana de los tempanos. nice creek. tons of buttercups. horses scattered here and there. nice forest. nice low elevation glaciers and tons of tarns. we hiked up a ridge, climber's L of the lake. great views. incredibly fragrant spiky white flowers that smelled like pina colada + vanilla. came down, found the high route trail to the next valley E towards laguana encantada. beavers have built quite the dams here. exited at 6:30p for our taxi that failed to show. we called a different one.
day 40 only having part of a day for activities, we did town-stuff. walked to a lagoon chock full of the rare cerveza pigeon. then to a lookout (eventually blocked by a tour bus). airport in the afternoon and off to buenos aires again.
day 41 late start. headed to the president's house for celebration of the bicentennial of argentina. then to the lagoon reserve, which wasn't that great. a few museums (free), random people dancing and doing a photo shoot on a calatrava bridge, and a taking down of the flag occupied most of our day. tremendous steak dinner on the far side of town. hoped to get out for dancing, but it was 12:30a when we finished dinner, and my hip was hurting quite a bit this day.
day 42 visited a lot of the markets today (sunday - best for markets). lots of people. lots of things being sold. then, wandered to la boca for tango (watching only for me). spent most of the day there. eventually headed to an american sports bar to watch the 2nd half of a crappy packers playoff game. lame.
day 43 last day in south america. headed to el tigre, a weekend escape town for those in buenos aires. took the train for an hour to its ending point. walked the town for a bit and then picked up a busboat - something that takes people to various points within the large river delta of el tigre. very relaxing area. returned to BA around 6:30 just in time for our 10:00p flight (the airport and customs and transit take a long time).
what did i learn? - my wife is pretty amazing - argentina is beautiful and undeveloped. it's what i picture the US being like some 60 years ago. - argentines are incredibly nice - WA's mountains still take the cake for me when compared to patagonia stats: bus rides - 102 hours flight - 42 hours ferry - 3 hours train - 2 hours taxi - 2.5 hours walking - 60 hours hiking - 88 hours

Back to top Reply to topic Reply with quote Send private message
Matt
Tea, Earl Grey, Hot



Joined: 30 Jan 2007
Posts: 4307 | TRs | Pics
Location: Shoreline
Matt
Tea, Earl Grey, Hot
PostFri Jan 20, 2012 10:48 pm 
Wow, I only had time to skim through it so far, but that's an epic honeymoon. I'd agree that your wife is pretty amazing, but you're only half right. You and she are both pretty amazing. Congratulations.

“As beacons mountains burned at evening.” J.R.R. Tolkien
Back to top Reply to topic Reply with quote Send private message
bobbi
stillaGUAMish



Joined: 13 Jul 2006
Posts: 8012 | TRs | Pics
Location: olympics!
bobbi
stillaGUAMish
PostFri Jan 20, 2012 10:51 pm 
congratulations....marriage and awesome honeymoon! rockband.gif been waiting for your TR....AMAZING! i love your simplistic writing style up.gif your photos are spectacular! up.gif i am soaking it all in and must decide where to go and what to do! only have 3 wks and have to at least count 3-4 as travel days, so 17 days is all i got to check things out! thank you for sharing your fantabulous adventure ! love it love it love it! ADDED....did you carry on your backpack or checked it from SEA to EZE?

bobbi ૐ "Today is your day! Your mountain is waiting. So…get on your way!" - Oh, the Places You’ll Go! By Dr. Seuss
Back to top Reply to topic Reply with quote Send private message
Jason Hummel
Member
Member


Joined: 31 Aug 2006
Posts: 1209 | TRs | Pics
Location: Tacoma Washington
Jason Hummel
Member
PostFri Jan 20, 2012 10:57 pm 
Awesome guys. Congratulations. You took wonderful images and I loved going on the journey with you. Many of these places I'd like to visit someday. I bet this is a consolation to your planned n. cascades trip!

Back to top Reply to topic Reply with quote Send private message
silly_traveler
~ roaming ~



Joined: 04 Jun 2006
Posts: 1525 | TRs | Pics
Location: Bellevue
silly_traveler
~ roaming ~
PostSat Jan 21, 2012 12:01 am 
43 days of bliss smile.gif up.gif

♫ You have brains in your head. You have feet in your shoes. You can steer yourself any direction you choose. And you're the one who will decide where you'll go. Oh the places you'll go. - Dr. Seuss
Back to top Reply to topic Reply with quote Send private message
Ski
><((((°>



Joined: 28 May 2005
Posts: 12798 | TRs | Pics
Location: tacoma
Ski
><((((°>
PostSat Jan 21, 2012 12:43 am 
epic. beautiful photography. lovely wife. lucky man.

"I shall wear white flannel trousers, and walk upon the beach. I have heard the mermaids singing, each to each."
Back to top Reply to topic Reply with quote Send private message
GaliWalker
Have camera will use



Joined: 10 Dec 2007
Posts: 4916 | TRs | Pics
Location: Pittsburgh
GaliWalker
Have camera will use
PostSat Jan 21, 2012 5:25 am 
Excellent report and beautiful photos. Some honeymoon! Congratulations. up.gif

'Gali'Walker => 'Mountain-pass' walker bobbi: "...don't you ever forget your camera!" Photography: flickr.com/photos/shahiddurrani
Back to top Reply to topic Reply with quote Send private message
Redwic
Unlisted Free Agent



Joined: 23 Feb 2009
Posts: 3292 | TRs | Pics
Location: Going to the Prom(inence)
Redwic
Unlisted Free Agent
PostSat Jan 21, 2012 6:17 am 
First, congratulations on the marriage! Best wishes to you both! Second, thank you for sharing an account and photos from your great honeymoon! Third, that trip looks awesome!

60 pounds lighter but not 60 points brighter.
Back to top Reply to topic Reply with quote Send private message
RichP
Member
Member


Joined: 13 Jul 2006
Posts: 5628 | TRs | Pics
Location: here
RichP
Member
PostSat Jan 21, 2012 7:20 am 
Just think; you hit the popular spots on this trip. Next time you can check out some of the lesser known areas that most people never visit or even know exist aside from a few hardcore montañistas. I'm learning about new places all the time. Congratulations on showing us all how to honeymoon in adventurous style.

Back to top Reply to topic Reply with quote Send private message
Ancient Ambler
Member
Member


Joined: 15 May 2007
Posts: 1092 | TRs | Pics
Location: Bainbridge Island
Ancient Ambler
Member
PostSat Jan 21, 2012 7:29 am 
What an amazing journey you two have embarked on, and what a great report. One excellent photo after another, from your super wedding shot to the aerial view over BA on the way back north. One of the most remarkable honeymoons ever. You two obviously know how to make the good times roll, and thanks so much for sharing them with us.

Back to top Reply to topic Reply with quote Send private message
raising3hikers
Member
Member


Joined: 21 Sep 2007
Posts: 2343 | TRs | Pics
Location: Edmonds, Wa
raising3hikers
Member
PostSat Jan 21, 2012 8:55 am 
Glad you two had a great time, you saw some good stuff. It was nice to see your updates on your blog from time to time. Oh yeah, that was a pretty bad Packers game

Eric Eames
Back to top Reply to topic Reply with quote Send private message
Yana
Hater



Joined: 04 Jun 2004
Posts: 4212 | TRs | Pics
Location: Out Hating
Yana
Hater
PostSat Jan 21, 2012 9:07 am 
Wow! up.gif up.gif

PLAY SAFE! SKI ONLY IN CLOCKWISE DIRECTION! LET'S ALL HAVE FUN TOGETHER!
Back to top Reply to topic Reply with quote Send private message
furthur
Berry Bagger



Joined: 21 Sep 2006
Posts: 341 | TRs | Pics
Location: onward and upward
furthur
Berry Bagger
PostSat Jan 21, 2012 9:15 am 
Started selecting pix to "quote", then realized I was reproducing your entire TR. Such an enchanting mix of adventures. So much to wonder over! I imagine you've returned many times through your journal during our recent snow event. I think you'll discover one lasting wedding gift: your mind will replay these images at unexpected times, all throughout your life.

"You're either on the bus or off the bus." Kesey
Back to top Reply to topic Reply with quote Send private message
Gil
Member
Member


Joined: 29 Sep 2004
Posts: 4057 | TRs | Pics
Gil
Member
PostSat Jan 21, 2012 9:53 am 
Wow -- that was epic! What an adventure!

Friends help the miles go easier. Klahini
Back to top Reply to topic Reply with quote Send private message
IanB
Vegetable Belayer



Joined: 21 Jul 2010
Posts: 1061 | TRs | Pics
Location: gone whuljin'
IanB
Vegetable Belayer
PostSat Jan 21, 2012 10:23 am 
Many Congratulations - on the trip that you've just completed, and the one you are beginning together!!

"Forget gaining a little knowledge about a lot and strive to learn a lot about a little." - Harvey Manning
Back to top Reply to topic Reply with quote Send private message
   All times are GMT - 8 Hours
 Reply to topic
Forum Index > Trip Reports > 43 days in south america (argentina, uruguay, chile)
  Happy Birthday speyguy, Bandanabraids!
Jump to:   
Search this topic:

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum