[cartman]

This easily accessible peak has had numerous parties turn back due to route-finding problems, weather, confusion as to which is the true summit or other concerns in the past few years. I'd attempted it nine years ago and turned around on the north ridge because of weather and time. Recruiting Matt, Greg, Suzanne, Barry, Barb, and Elle, along with canine compatriots Gusto and Izzy, we started at the Lanham Lake TH and made good time under mostly blue skies to frozen Lanham Lake, 4140'. Jim Hill was shrouded in clouds, but here is what we would have seen (photos taken on the return):

Jim Hill from Lanham Lake

Jim Hill true summit

The first goal is to reach the north ridge at the saddle S of Pt 5707 via an ESE bearing up the moderately steep slope.

Up to the North Ridge

Snow was initially breakable crust over powder, which soon gave way to just powder which got deeper as we ascended. Taking turns snowshoeing up through 1-2' of great skiing conditions, we worked our way up through the forest, easily avoiding the more open areas to a point a bit S and 100' above the saddle.

Jim Hill North Ridge

Here we met skiers coming up from the Henry Creek approach. Their leader had skied in the area numerous times and set a path along the ridge for us to follow, which helped quite a bit as the ridge was also covered in good powder snow. Our first views of the summit area were still shrouded, but as we approached the false summit the clouds blew away and revealed the slopes and col which were our next objectives (photo take on the return).

Col between false and true summits

We stopped at the base of the false summit and debated what to do next. At this point we were less than 200' vertical from the summit. There were multiple issues: Were the snow conditions safe enough to continue, would the summit ridge go, and would the conditions hold long enough for the return? Matt advocated for continuing while I played devil's advocate. Eventually only Matt and I continued on, basing our decision to go on the following factors: 1. Avalanche forecast was moderate on north aspects up to 7000'. 2. Temps had not warmed significantly, remaining at or just above freezing. 3. There were no indications of any snow instability. 4. Since the summit slopes had been in clouds most of the morning, the sun had only started to hit the slopes. Being N-facing, the sun was hitting the slope at an extreme oblique angle as opposed to directly, mitigating the effects of the sun warming the snowpack. 5. The skiers crossed the slope without incident, and their travel showed no signs of instability (small snowballs did not pick up any snow, no pinwheel effects). 6. We changed our choice of route: instead of going under the false summit via the line of its shadow directly to the col, which line would shortly be in sun, we took the ski track to the base of the true summit where we could follow its shadowline at an upward SE diagonal to the col. This track would stay in shade longer as the sun moved west.

Our route

Others waiting below false summit

Even with these rationale we were skeptical of our chances considering the obstacles along the ridge. Keeping well apart as we started across, we made quick time across the slope and up to the col. Snow conditions were even better than expected; the winds in this area often come from the east, and easterly winds were blowing uphill, scouring away some of the overlying powder.

Matt approaching the col

At the col we switched our snowshoes for crampons. Matt led out, first around a couple of minor obstacles for fifty horizontal feet, then up the nose of the ridge which had looked quite intimidating from below.

Matt on the nose

I followed, kicking in good bucket steps for the return. Next obstacle was a 20' narrow arete--level but only two feet wide, with powder snow on top and dropoffs to both sides. Interesting climbing.

The Arete

This was the crux of the route. From here, it was about 150 horizontal feet up easy snow to the true summit of Jim Hill, 6765'. Very satisfying climbing, easier than expected; and quite rewarding given our skepticism about our chances.

Jim Hill summit

Matt on Jim Hill summit

Clouds hid the highest peaks, such as Glacier Pk and Big Chiwaukum, but many others were visible.

Baring group on L, Fernow group on R

Dickerman area and Sloan

Rock, Howard, Mastiff

Arrowhead center L, Nason Ridge behind

Middle Chiwaukum

Daniel, Hinman

The others had already left, so we did not stay long and returned across the arete and down the nose; this was also easier than expected, the snow holding well and not necessitating any backing down on the route.

Matt descending the nose

We returned via our track down and then across the slope--still no visible effects of instability. More skiers had arrived and were setting up to ski the face of the false summit. We tramped down the ridge to the saddle below Pt 5707 as the others had done, with some final looks back at this fine peak.

Last views from the ridge

Then made our way quickly back down to the lake using short glissades. Here we met one last returning skier, and looked up to see numerous ski tracks, some on impressively steep terrain. The accessibility and elevation of this area makes it a popular destination for some fine backcountry skiing. Two miles back through the woods on a well-trampled snow trail to the car. Thanks everyone for a great day in the mountains! ~6 miles, 4000' gain. Eric J. Johnson

[Matt]

Date: April 7, 2012 Destination: Jim Hill Mtn (USGS Stevens Pass), 6765 feet, 2085P Party: Matt, cartman, Greg L, Sadie’s Driver, MiddleE, Snowdog, BarbE, (and dogs Gusto & Isabel) Capsule description of the route: Park at Steven Pass Nordic area. 3000 ft. Follow trail to Lanham Lake, 4143. Turn left and go ESE to col on Jim Hill’s north ridge 5500. Turn right and follow ridge south to just below the eastern false summit, 6450. Cross snowfield at lowest angle to 6600-foot col. Follow crest west to summit 6765.

Jim Hill route track

At the start, a plethora of signs marked the Lanham Lake trail, to assure that no snowshoers trespassed onto the groomed road. Once the signs have taken you past the power lines, then it’s just follow the Lanham Creek up-valley to Lanham Lake. Surprisingly, the beaten tracks ended only about halfway to the lake, and we were the first group making new tracks the rest of the way.

Snowshoers! Don’t walk on the groomed road.

Seriously, keep your dirty snowshoes off of the groomed road.

Follow these signs to Lanham Lake; don’t even think of using the road.

The summit was cloudy from the lake. Going up the forest to the ridge required some floundering in powdery snow, but not too bad in more moderately angled parts. Thank goodness for lots of people to help kick steps. We arrived at the crest just before a group of skiers coming up the opposite side from Henry Creek. Going up the approach ridge provided some cool half-misty views of the summit area up higher.

Clouded summit from Lanham Lake

On the north ridge of Jim Hill

Hazy view above

Sun trying to burn through

The col and summit come into sight above the ridge

Further up toward the col

Where the ridge leveled out below Jim Hill’s eastern false summit, we paused for a long discussion of routes, as cartman already detailed above. The skiers meanwhile traversed west across the lowest angled terrain below the summit, and skied the next two bowls. Most of our group elected to stop here. From here to the summit, I was concentrating on the route and snow, and neglected to take any photos, though I did take lots on the way down. Our two concerns were the open snowfield below the col, and the bulging cornices and ribs of snow on the summit ridge. Both turned out to be much better than they looked from a distance. We were able to cross the snowfield at a relatively low angle by first traversing west along the skiers tracks, then angling back up the opposite edge to the col. Up close, the featues on the summit ridge were smaller and less steep than they had looked from a distance. My fear had been that the snow would be too loose or breakable to kick reliable steps, but in fact it kicked down into reassuringly solid deep footholds all the way up. It was sort of a fun puzzle as long as I took it one foothold at a time – quite a mixture of cornices going either way, occasional steeper ridges of snow, one narrow arête, small rime-covered rock outcrops to work around, and short traverses in between. At the summit, there was even some bare rock to mark out safe area to sit, and warm sunshine with not much wind. Once assured that the route went okay and the summit was actually nearby, not hidden further in the distance, I wanted to wave back to the others to encourage them to come up, but, alas, they had already departed while we were hidden behind the crest.

Eric on the crest nearing the summit

Me near the top of the ridge

Summit views were mostly clear, except for clouds over Glacier Peak.

Lots of peaks south of us

Middle Chiwaukum

Summit tea and Lanham Lake

Summit tea looking back down the summit ridge

My shadow looking back down at some skiers standing where our group separated

Looking off the summit ridge to the approach ridge (with Howard & Mastiff beyond)

On the way down, I remembered to take photos of our tracks. Many, many photos.

Tracks atop the summit ridge

Further down the ridge

Tracks cutting around some rock outcrops and onward to the arete

The arête section

Stitched shot of our tracks on the ridge and up to the col

Boot shot

Eric descending the steeper nose

The most intriguing feature in the area was actually the false summit. It had impressively steep snow ribs on the side and an arête on top, but especially it had a bizarrely proportioned cornice on its east end. The cornice was a single projection, several times as long as its width, and standing out very prominently from below. There didn’t seem to be any object inside of it, so apparently it’s just a product of how the wind channels over the summit.

The arête and odd cornice on the false summit

False summit from below

Wild lighting and clouds behind the false summit

From the col, we easily followed our tracks back down. The approach ridge was now covered with the tracks of multiple groups of skiers.

Eric returning across the snowfield below the col

Col between the summits and between the clouds (foreground tracks are skiers, ours traversed lower and barely visible coming up the far side to the col)

Eric heading back down the approach ridge

Further down the approach ridge

Back at Lanham Lake, we had clear views of the summit, and of the tracks that the first ski group carved down both bowls west of the summit.

Jim Hill summit area viewed from Lanham Lake

Pan of Jim Hill from Lanham Lake with many ski tracks

Round trip: 6.5 miles, 3740 gain, 7:30 hours. (Up 4:30, summit 0:30, down 2:30.) My thanks to cartman for suggesting this destination, and to everyone else for their cheerful company along the way up. And also for their step-kicking on the way up.

[Redwic]

Great job! Great photos and TR! The group I was with that day were at Lennox Mountain (TR to follow soon). Your comments regarding the morning cloud cover was interesting... our group virtually did not see a cloud in the sky until we reached open slopes midday. And when we did finally see clouds they first seemed to be contained around the Cascade Crest (i.e. closer to where you were) and especially around the Enchantments.... areas east of our location. Later, the clouds moved into every area near us, albeit not much so. But overall I bet the weather worked out for most people outdoors that day. Good job on what looks like a great peak. Jim Hill Mountain is on my future "to do" list. ONE QUESTION: How long did it take you guys, roundtrip?

[BarbE]

Glad you and Matt persevered and made the summit. It looked pretty daunting from our viewpoint. The beautiful ridge walk made up for not reaching the summit. Love the Arete shot! A few more pics.

finally at the ridge

starting up the ridge

Jim Hill April 8

1 label

clouds obscure the summit

walking into the clouds..

...and into the light

on a mission

lunch stop, our destination for the day

Matt and Eric continue

almost at the col

Cartman getting ready, Matt climbing

Matt climbs first obstacle

Matt on top of the nose

Middle Chiwaukum

last look back

[EastKing]

Awesome shots! Great choice for the day!

[Middle E]

A great ridge walk on a beautiful day. Just a few added pics....

Barb and Suzanne

Finally the ridge

Tracks

Tracks

[raising3hikers]

Looks like it was a fun trip. Looks very interesting getting to the top, glad it worked out. It was definitely the right conditions yesterday to get some good stuff done!

[Magellan]

A couple of calendar-worthy shots in there.

[iron]

good stuff guys. way to get this peak in its condition-window.

[RichP]

Nice!!

[puzzlr]

[Matt]

I added my photos above. BarbE, I really like your photos. The group looks so colorful going up, and you did a great job of showing all the bright shapes of the snow, tracks, and clouds. Thank you also for the photos of Eric and me ascending the summit ridge.

[cartman]

Barb, my thanks also for the action shots up high.

[Type E]

Good work everyone. the route has a much different character in Winter than in late Summer when I was there. Looks to be a very popular destination for skiers. E

[Snowdog]

Lovely day to be out in the mountains, that is for sure! Glad we 'put' two of our group on top, though they really put themselves there. Wish I'd used my zoom to better capture the action higher up, but I couldn't see a thing in the screen, being blinded by the sun an' all. Having dogs with us may have been a problem on the ridge as well, and without crampons I feel we made the right call.

most pleasant ridge

purdy ski tracks back into Henry Creek drainage