Forum Index > Trip Reports > Rim to Rim, Grand Canyon NP 05/22/12 - 05/24/12
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Moose
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Moose
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PostMon May 28, 2012 2:02 pm 
I completely underestimated this trip in two important ways - difficulty and beauty. A well-maintained trail graded at an average of 10% sounds like a cakewalk compared to some of the climber's trails we have in the PNW, right? Unfortunately in 100+ temperatures even walking from the car to the air-conditioned visitor's center feels pretty miserable. I also underestimated the beauty of the Grand Canyon. I know how stupid that must sound, but I've always been more of a snow/ice person and have never had any desire to experience desert hiking. But after three days of walking through box canyons surrounded by 4,000' cliffs and standing beneath crystal clear waterfalls hidden within caverns of rock that formed over 2 billion years ago, I find that I am forced to eat my words. Day 1: South Kaibab TH to Bright Angel CG (-4,740', 6.9 mi) We started a little after 6 am. This trail has little to no shade and no water sources. We reached the Black Bridge that spans the Colorado River at 11 am and it was 102 degrees. We spent the rest of the day soaking in Bright Angel Creek along with the rest of the campers and several deer.
Staring out at our destination from Mather Point
Staring out at our destination from Mather Point
Sunrise on the South Kaibab Trail
Sunrise on the South Kaibab Trail
View from Ooh Ahh Point
View from Ooh Ahh Point
Looking down toward Cedar Ridge
Looking down toward Cedar Ridge
Zoroaster Temple
Zoroaster Temple
First glimpse of the Black Bridge
First glimpse of the Black Bridge
Even the squirrels were too hot to do anything but marinate
Even the squirrels were too hot to do anything but marinate
Cooling off in Bright Angel Creek
Cooling off in Bright Angel Creek
We didn't know it at the time, but that geyser in the upper LH corner was actually a burst in the pipeline and in 2 days, water would be cut off from all campgrounds in the inner gorge
We didn't know it at the time, but that geyser in the upper LH corner was actually a burst in the pipeline and in 2 days, water would be cut off from all campgrounds in the inner gorge
Day 2: Bright Angel CG to Cottonwood CG (+1,200', 7.1 mi) After a restless night of fitful sleep, we started down the trail around 6:30 am. The first 4 miles of trail was spent hiking through the Box, a narrow box canyon surrounded on both sides by 4,000' rock walls. The trail follows the water pipeline and the Colorado River until it breaks out into the open. At 10 am, we veered off the main trail and hiked to Ribbon Falls, where we stayed for the next 6 hours as we waited for temperatures to cool. Definitely not in the PNW anymore! At 4 pm we hiked the last 1.5 miles to Cottonwood CG.
Heading into "The Box"
Heading into "The Box"
Streams of sunlight
Streams of sunlight
First sighting of Ribbon Falls
First sighting of Ribbon Falls
Photo taken while laying on a cool rock ledge
Photo taken while laying on a cool rock ledge
Note to self: walking into a cactus hurts
Note to self: walking into a cactus hurts
Day 3: Cottonwood CG to the North Rim (+4,210', 6.9 mi) We knew we had a long day ahead of us and left the campground a little after 5 am. One of the water faucets had stopped working but the one near the ranger station was still delivering drinkable water so we filled up and went on our way. Fortunately there was plentiful shade along the North Kaibab Trail and we were able to take breaks whenever we started overheating. The temperature dropped as we gained elevation and actually felt somewhat pleasant by the time we reached 7,000'. The canyon landscape changed from desert to forested slopes covered with ponderosa pines, reminding me of some parts of eastern WA. We reached the North Kaibab TH, and the conclusion of our trip, by 11:30 am.
Lame attempt at slow shutter speeds w/o tripod
Lame attempt at slow shutter speeds w/o tripod
N. Kaibab Trail cut into the canyon walls
N. Kaibab Trail cut into the canyon walls
Squirrel stuffing his face
Squirrel stuffing his face
Squirrel staring contest
Squirrel staring contest
Blessed shade in the Supai Tunnel
Blessed shade in the Supai Tunnel
In a nutshell, an amazing few days spent in one of the world's many indescribably beautiful places!
Sunset at the North Rim
Sunset at the North Rim

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Backpacker Joe
Blind Hiker



Joined: 16 Dec 2001
Posts: 23956 | TRs | Pics
Location: Cle Elum
Backpacker Joe
Blind Hiker
PostMon May 28, 2012 2:32 pm 
Great pics. Nicely done. up.gif

"If destruction be our lot we must ourselves be its author and finisher. As a nation of freemen we must live through all time or die by suicide." — Abraham Lincoln
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Akula
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Joined: 04 Nov 2005
Posts: 477 | TRs | Pics
Location: Somewhere in middle America
Akula
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PostMon May 28, 2012 5:25 pm 
I did this several years ago, and I to was totally amazed with the scenery. Thanks for sharing.

Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore, dream, discover. -- Mark Twain
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John Mac
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Joined: 12 Mar 2012
Posts: 106 | TRs | Pics
Location: S. King
John Mac
old retiree
PostMon May 28, 2012 9:42 pm 
Glad to hear you have developed an appreciation for Southwest beauty. Brown down there can be just as good as green and white here. I love the SW.

How miserable are the idle hours of the ignorant man. Ariosto
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Riptide Rush
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Joined: 21 Sep 2010
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Riptide Rush
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PostTue May 29, 2012 10:08 pm 
Beautiful pictures! Looks like heaven, a really warm heaven! Nice squirrel shots too up.gif up.gif

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mbtigger
Sherpa Da



Joined: 14 Apr 2011
Posts: 697 | TRs | Pics
Location: Sucking the dry air
mbtigger
Sherpa Da
PostWed May 30, 2012 8:15 am 
There have been discussions about doing this one spring break when the younger kinder can carry more stuff....

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Moose
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Moose
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PostFri Jun 01, 2012 1:37 pm 
Thanks everyone! mbtigger, this would be a great trip to do with the kids. Most likely there will be drinkable water at all campgrounds (though the pipeline is old and breaks occasionally) and the corridor trails were the best trails I've ever hiked (maintenance-wise). I saw lots of kids playing in the river near Bright Angel Trail. Seems like there would be a lot for them to do...though I'd recommend going in late April or early May to avoid the hottest weather.

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bobbi
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Joined: 13 Jul 2006
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bobbi
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PostFri Jun 01, 2012 3:11 pm 
what a great hike! up.gif awesome photos! permit required? was it a hassle to get a permit? how did you get back to the south rim, (if you did)?

bobbi ૐ "Today is your day! Your mountain is waiting. So…get on your way!" - Oh, the Places You’ll Go! By Dr. Seuss
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Moose
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Moose
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PostMon Jun 04, 2012 7:55 am 
bobbi wrote:
permit required? was it a hassle to get a permit? how did you get back to the south rim, (if you did)?
Yes, a permit is required...and is a huge hassle to get (don't know anything about the other trails, but this applies to the popular corridor trails). My friend applied for permits for 3 years before finally getting one. It's like the permitting process for the Wonderland Trail and the Enchantments combined. Interestingly, GCNP actually keeps track of how many times you apply and whether you've gotten a permit before - it affects your chances. We were originally going to do a Rim to Rim to Rim, hiking back to the S. Rim from the N. Rim along the same trail system, but we adjusted our plans because of the heat as well as some other minor medical issues and took the TransCanyon shuttle back. It's a 5 hr drive and $85pp, and the company only accepts check and cash. A stupid policy IMO, but they were kind enough to give us a lift based on our promise to pay them back when we got home (as I typically don't carry $100 in cash while backpacking).

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