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Fletcher
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Fletcher
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PostThu Jul 05, 2012 8:52 am 
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Dane, Derek, and I all wanted to get a climb in on the 4th of July holiday. Dane suggested Stuart, I had been wanting to climb it for some time so I was in. Derek, although already having climbed the peak more than once, was in as well.

Dane arrived at my place shortly before 7 Tuesday evening and we were off shortly there after. We stopped in Cle Elum for a beer and a burger and headed out to the Esmerelda TH where Derek was waiting for us. We hung out for too long and I hit the hay around midnight. Up at 3:30 and on the trail by 4:15.

We made the trail junction for Longs Pass in short order but the large avalanche gully was still filled with deep snow, obscuring the trail. Rather than aimlessly searching for it, we headed straight uphill toward the pass. The sunrise was awesome.

After seeing the alpenglow on Rainier, I thought I could make Longs Pass to get some shots of glow on Stu. I booked it up but no glow, I think I missed it only by a minute or two. I was, however, greeted at the pass by two kid goats.
Longs Pass welcome committee
Longs Pass welcome committee

Although I missed the alpenglow, sunrise was still awesome.

The three of us regrouped at the pass, and headed down towards Ingalls Creek.
heading down
heading down

We made good time down to the creek and it was time for the log crossing. The log has broken sometime since last summer but is still easy to cross.

A short distance after we crossed Ingalls Creek and we were at the base of the Cascadian Couloir. The first bit of the ascent is on a nice, easy-to-follow boot path. It is impossible to miss from the Ingalls Crk trail.
starting out
starting out
CC in center
CC in center
getting higher
getting higher

The first third of our ascent was simple and uneventful, although pretty steep. We were all feeling great and spirits were high.
views opening up
views opening up

Eventually the Cascadian opens up, we found ourselves in a broad, open slope below Mt. Stuart's false summit.
Bills Peak
Bills Peak

Sherpa and the Enchantments also come into view from here.

We kept ascending until we found ourselves at the base of the huge snowfield that takes you up to the false summit. Here we put on crampons and took out our axes.

I quickly found that I was less than comfortable with the steep, firm snow so I traversed over onto the nearby rocks. Derek came along with me, the scrambling was exposed and tough. We lost a lot of time in this section.
goat
goat

After realizing that the decision to scramble was a mistake, we traversed across the upper end of the snowfield so that we could wrap below the south side of the false summit.
we were scrambling the rock in the background
we were scrambling the rock in the background
first look at the summit
first look at the summit

After this, it was just a simple scrambily traverse with minor route finding challenges over to the summit of Stu.
tight squeeze
tight squeeze
looking back
looking back
getting close
getting close
north to Cashmere, last week's peak
north to Cashmere, last week's peak
lots of this
lots of this

There was one last bit of snow that we had to cross below the summit. It looked like it could be imposing from below but once up top it was nothing.
summit
summit
easy snow crossing
easy snow crossing

We made the summit at 12:25, 8 hours and 10 minutes after leaving the car. There were a few clouds that had drifted in but the views were still decent. All of the contents of the summit register were completely soaked and soggy. We could not find any dry paper to sign, anybody heading up there in the near future might want to bring some dry paper.

Cashmere, Eightmile
Cashmere, Eightmile
the view west, Mt Daniel
the view west, Mt Daniel
Dane chilling at the summit
Dane chilling at the summit
Longs Pass from summit
Longs Pass from summit
Lake Ingalls
Lake Ingalls
Big Jim, Lou
Big Jim, Lou
Icicle Ridge
Icicle Ridge
Me hanging on the summit
Me hanging on the summit
Captain America on Independence Day
Captain America on Independence Day
exposed
exposed

After about 45 minutes on the summit it was time for the long slog back to the car.
Dane heading down
Dane heading down
back at the slot
back at the slot
ready to descend the snow
ready to descend the snow
Derek downclimbing
Derek downclimbing
dudes heading down
dudes heading down

The plunge stepping down the snowfield was pretty good although still a little bit crunchy. It got better toward the bottom where Dane got in a nice glissade and I got in one of the longest boot glissades I have ever done.
looking back
looking back

We had been playing around with the idea of going and checking out Sherpa but after checking the watch we decided to pass.
Sherpa
Sherpa
the balanced rock is crazy!
the balanced rock is crazy!

We met a couple here that we had talked to at the TH the night before. They had lost the trail back at the junction just like we had, but wasted a bunch of time trying to find it, they timed out at the bottom of the snowfield. They were the only people we saw on the mountain all day.

The descent back down the Cascadian was long and tiresome.
getting closer to the bottom
getting closer to the bottom
lush
lush
paintbrush
paintbrush
looking back
looking back
relieved to be down
relieved to be down
pooped
pooped
whoa dude
whoa dude

After a quick break at the base of the Cascadian it was time for the last bit of elevation gain back up to Longs Pass.
back at the log
back at the log
we climbed that?!
we climbed that?!
Dane leading the way
Dane leading the way
almost there
almost there
Derek finishing up the elevation gain
Derek finishing up the elevation gain

I had a beer stashed in the snow at the pass. It tasted really good.
nobody stole it!
nobody stole it!
Victory!!
Victory!!
Dane resting at the pass
Dane resting at the pass
last look at Stu
last look at Stu

The hike back down to the car was slow going with one last goat encounter.
snow that hides the trail
snow that hides the trail

Back at the car at 7:45, we heading into Cle Elum for beers and burgers. After that, Dane and I heading west for Seattle and Derek headed back to Wenatchee. All in all, a totally awesome way to spend the 4th! Great climb with awesome company. I hope to get out again with you guys in the future!!
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almosthere
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almosthere
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PostThu Jul 05, 2012 8:58 am 
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Atta boy!


nice pics bro, sounds like you earned 'em  up.gif  up.gif
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mtn.climber
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Joined: 29 Jul 2008
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mtn.climber
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PostThu Jul 05, 2012 9:47 am 
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Having done that climb in a day, I know how tough it is.  Great job reaching the summit.  Glad you got the views. up.gif  up.gif

--------------
Don't sweat the petty stuff, and don't pet the sweaty stuff

Live the life of love.  Love the life you live.
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fourteen410
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fourteen410
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PostThu Jul 05, 2012 12:32 pm 
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nice work!  up.gif  up.gif
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Spartan
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Spartan
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PostThu Jul 05, 2012 1:00 pm 
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awesome trip  up.gif
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Gabigabs
Trail Breaker



Joined: 07 Nov 2007
Posts: 844 | TRs
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Gabigabs
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PostThu Jul 05, 2012 3:05 pm 
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Congrats!

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Life is simple... Eat, Sleep, Hike!
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Dane
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Joined: 14 Mar 2006
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Dane
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PostThu Jul 05, 2012 7:09 pm 
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Dude great pictures! It was a long, tough day, but it never felt like a slog thanks to good company and nice views  up.gif

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Without judgement what would we do? We would be forced to look at ourselves...

-Death
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rocknclimb
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rocknclimb
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PostThu Jul 05, 2012 7:28 pm 
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Great pics Fletcher!!!
It was a pleasure being able to summit Stuart with good company and nearly perfect weather.  One of the toughest day climbs I can remember doing!  Definetely have to meet up and conquer a few more summits this Summer.
Happy 4th!!!
Happy 4th!!!
some avalanche debris at the junction
some avalanche debris at the junction
Esmeralda w/ the moon
Esmeralda w/ the moon
Mt. Rainier
Mt. Rainier
spectacular sunrise
spectacular sunrise
Ingalls creek drainage
Ingalls creek drainage
Stuart
Stuart
Goats everywhere
Goats everywhere
down Longs pass
down Longs pass
Crossing the creek
Crossing the creek
Glacier Lilly
Glacier Lilly
Ingalls creek trail
Ingalls creek trail
Paintbrush
Paintbrush
Ingalls Pk.
Ingalls Pk.
Ingalls pk
Ingalls pk
Longs pass in the distance
Longs pass in the distance
105_0520
105_0520
Cascadian
Cascadian
View toward Rainier
View toward Rainier
balancing rock
balancing rock
Fletcher and Sherpa
Fletcher and Sherpa
Fletcher nearing the top
Fletcher nearing the top
Dane reaches the summit
Dane reaches the summit
Mt. Cashmere
Mt. Cashmere
summit register
summit register
Enchantments
Enchantments
105_0536
105_0536
Stuart Lk.
Stuart Lk.
Fletcher heading down
Fletcher heading down
Snow ramp leading to false summit.
Snow ramp leading to false summit.
Dane, Fletcher, and Sherpa
Dane, Fletcher, and Sherpa

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When asked "Why do you climb"?  Simply respond "Why don't you"?
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Fletcher
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Fletcher
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PostThu Jul 05, 2012 10:18 pm 
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Derek: awesome pics man! Thanks for posting them, I always really enjoy seeing the day from my partner's perspective. Hit me up when your back work in Cle Elum.

Dane: good to meet you man! Really enjoyed your epic stories of the Olympics. I'm going to check out that Royal Basin trip you recommended.
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dacker
little black dots



Joined: 27 Sep 2006
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dacker
little black dots
PostThu Jul 05, 2012 11:19 pm 
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Doing that car to car in a day--especially with some snow to slow you down--is for animals. I'm certainly glad I wasn't there embarrassing myself by trying to keep up with you!! borank.gif

--------------
We don't stop hiking because we grow old; we grow old because we stop hiking. --Finis Mitchell
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mtn.climber
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mtn.climber
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PostFri Jul 06, 2012 1:56 am 
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FWIW:  I went back and checked my stats when I did the same route in a day.  13 miles and 8800' total elevation gain.  Hell of a day, gentlemen.

--------------
Don't sweat the petty stuff, and don't pet the sweaty stuff

Live the life of love.  Love the life you live.
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veronica
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veronica
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PostFri Jul 06, 2012 5:57 am 
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up.gif  up.gif  up.gif Awesome job guys! Glad you were able to pull it off in a day.

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Take risks not to escape life, but to prevent life from escaping.

"Stalking" is such a strong word. I prefer "Intense research of an individual".
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markymark07
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markymark07
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PostFri Jul 06, 2012 7:20 pm 
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Nice Derek!  Pics are awesome!

--------------
Earth and sky, woods and fields, lakes and rivers, the mountain and the sea, are excellent schoolmasters, and teach some of us more than we can ever learn from books. -John Lubbock
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ajax
stronger than dirt



Joined: 24 Jul 2008
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ajax
stronger than dirt
PostSat Jul 07, 2012 10:22 pm 
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Just did this on the 1st (up variation 1, according to Beckey's). It was partly cloudy, but it cleared up more on our descent. I enjoyed seeing your pictures and seeing what we missed!
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ONELUV1
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ONELUV1
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PostMon Jul 09, 2012 7:53 pm 
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Looks sik doods!  nice pics fletch.

Maybe we can get together for the west ridge sometime.
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Forum Index > Trip Reports > Mt. Stuart 7-4-12
  Happy Birthday Gabigabs!
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