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PeakPirate
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Joined: 08 Dec 2011
Posts: 39 | TRs | Pics
Location: bremerton
PeakPirate
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PostSun Jun 02, 2013 9:23 pm 
Since it has been awhile since I have written a trip report I wanted to make sure this one was decent. I am not really writing these for good beta or to show off, but mostly as a form of documentation of my quest to climb all 100 peaks from Jeff Smoot's "Climbing Washington's Mountains". I did a couple of trips that I haven't written reports for so I will mention Mt. Saint Helens and Mt. Si.... neither of which need another trip report. After scheduling this trip with my buddy Dan and his friend and then re-scheduling multiple times based on personal issues and weather problems we finally came up with a plan for Thursday and Friday to climb Colchuck and Dragontail. Based on the books and previous trip reports we thought it would be pretty simple, but Dragontail was quickly out of the question. We got started later than we planned on Thursday which is expected because I am always late if it is not work related. After stopping in the P.O. to pick up Dan and his friend Matt, sorting gear and then stopping in Tacoma to pick up Danceswithbamboo, sort more gear, and pack four packs plus gear and guys into my KIA we were finally on the road.
Colchuck
Colchuck
We got to the trail head late afternoon and were able to get a pretty quick start. We made it to camp without too much trouble. There was a little bit of snow and some postholing in the last quarter mile before the campsite we picked on the SW side of the lake. We did the last bit of sorting and arranging our packs in the morning and hit the road.
Colchuck
Colchuck
Colchuck
Colchuck
There were steps kicked in pretty good about halfway up the glacier but the closer we got to the Col the steps kind of dwindled. The weather had been poor the week before so it didn't surprise us that there was not too much traffic. We were basically the only people above 6000 feet. We continued somewhat slowly up to the Col stopping to take tons of pictures and enjoy the weather. The glacier is in good condition with plenty of snow and not getting a bunch of light until later in the day keeping the snow fairly solid. We donned crampons as we got to the glacier and it was not mandatory but very helpful. We got to the Col around 10 and hung out for a few minutes looking at Dragontail and Colchuck and contemplating the routes. From the Col the approach to Dragontail looks extremely steep and based on the time and the amount of work left on Colchuck we decided that we would probably not be making Dragontail that day. It was slightly disappointing, however we all got much more time to enjoy the summit of Colchuck and were able to get back out at a reasonable time. After Leaving the Col we encountered pretty steep snow and rocks up to the summit. There were some areas were the snow was extremely soft and thin and we were breaking through the snow with no effort. The south side of Colchuck was pretty steep in some places with little or no good runout and a fall would have been bad. Luckily we were all doing well and Dan, Glen, Matt and myself were all determined. At the Summit we let Matt go first on the short rock outcrop to the top because he is visiting from Minnesota and this was his first climb. He was elated and once we took some pictures and enjoyed the views we relaxed just below the summit. Coming down was about the same. We admired the route on Dragontail..... pondered if we should give it a go, or make it home at a reasonable time. We down climbed the steep parts in the snow. If they had been a little more or less snowed we would have probably been able to run down but the rock was poking through in enough places to keep it risky. After getting back to the Col we were able to cover most of the glacier with a spectacular glissade almost 2000 feet to the lake. Probably one of the best glissades I have had. After getting back to the car we had some great burgers and beers at Gustav's in Leavenworth. Overall it was a great trip and since we didn't do Dragontail we have a perfect excuse to get back soon. The area was lovely and everything else about the trip was great.

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PeakPirate
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Joined: 08 Dec 2011
Posts: 39 | TRs | Pics
Location: bremerton
PeakPirate
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PostSun Jun 02, 2013 9:24 pm 
Pictures coming soon!

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Jetlag
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Jetlag
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PostMon Jun 03, 2013 5:45 am 
Sounds like a great trip! Last time I was on the Colchuck glacier, we saw a goat glissading. As for the route up Dragontail from the col, under some conditions, it's a steep but easy boot-up, the only difficult part being the 65 feet on the other side of the ridge you can't see. Other times, the route is so icy that crampons are needed and, in my case, protection descending.

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