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mtn.climber
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Joined: 29 Jul 2008
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Location: The Lost Horizon
mtn.climber
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PostSat Sep 08, 2012 9:35 am 
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Glacier peak had been my nemesis.  Having reached the summit of Washington's other four volcanoes, I only needed this one to finish the list.  Twice before I had been foiled in summit attempts, and was hoping the third time would work out better.  I enlisted the help of five other NWHikers to go along.  Rob (OneLuv1), Greg (EastKing), Michael (Jimbopo), Fletcher and my youngest son Derek (Rocknclimb).

We left the North Fork Sauk TH on Tuesday morning, hiked to White Pass, and set up camp.  We arrived early enough that Rob and Fletcher took a side trip and tagged Portal peak (6999').  Derek, Michael, Fletcher and Rob then decided to summit White mountain (7043') to watch the sunset.

White mountain from the pass
White mountain from the pass
Indian Head
Indian Head
Sloan
Sloan
Monte Cristo peaks
Monte Cristo peaks

On Wednesday we hiked thru the White Chuck glacier basin enroute to camp at Glacier Gap (7200').  The glacier is almost gone, but has left behind an almost moonscape-like setting.  When I had been there the previous year, it had all been snow filled.  Without snow, it was filled with boulders, streams, lakes and tarns.  A really beautiful area.  That night we watched one of the most spectacular sunsets I've ever seen.  The sky looked like it was on fire.  My pictures didn't do it justice, so hopefully someone else will add some.

White Chuck basin
White Chuck basin
This used to be all covered by glacier
This used to be all covered by glacier
Hiking thru the White Chuck basin
Hiking thru the White Chuck basin
Glacier lake
Glacier lake
Lakes in the White Chuck basin
Lakes in the White Chuck basin
Glacier from high camp
Glacier from high camp
Tenpeak
Tenpeak
Sunset from Glacier Gap
Sunset from Glacier Gap

Summit day welcomed us with clear skies, and we left camp at 6:30 to begin our climb.  We stayed on the ridge until 8000' elevation, then hopped onto the Gerdine glacier and a well-established boot track.  The crux of the climb was going around Disappointment peak.  There is a short, steep section of icefall that has to be carefully negotiated before continuing upwards on the Cool glacier.  Rob led us thru that part without difficulty.  Shortly after, we reached the ridge (snow-free) that leads to the summit.  It took us about four hours from camp to reach the top of Washington's 5th-highest mountain (10,520').

Glacier cairn
Glacier cairn
Icefall we climbed thru
Icefall we climbed thru
Crossing the Cool glacier.  Summit in sight.
Crossing the Cool glacier.  Summit in sight.
Almost there
Almost there
Views from the summit
Views from the summit

Beautiful weather allowed us to spend an hour on the summit.  We played "Name That Peak" as we gazed out on seemingly hundreds of other mountains beyond.  The views were spectacular in all directions.  Sadly, we soon headed down, but spent an extra few minutes while we scrambled over to the summit of Disappointment peak.  Once again Rob led us thru the icefall safely and we made it back to camp about 2 hours from the summit.

We packed up and headed back to White Pass.  Due to work, Fletcher needed to go all the way out to the car.  He amazed all of us by making it from Glacier Gap to the TH in just over 4 hours.  The rest of us spent one last night at White Pass before returning.

Thanks to everyone who joined me on this special climb.  I wouldn't hesitate to join forces with any of you again.  And an extra special thanks to Derek, who waited for me below the summit so that we could reach the top together to complete our WA volcano list.
Lounging at the top
Lounging at the top
Derek and I complete the WA volcanoes
Derek and I complete the WA volcanoes

35 miles
11,000' total elevation gain
(Stats don't include side trips of Portal, White and various other high points)

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Don't sweat the petty stuff, and don't pet the sweaty stuff

Live the life of love.  Love the life you live.
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Fletcher
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Joined: 29 Jul 2009
Posts: 1280 | TRs
Location: kirkland
Fletcher
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PostSat Sep 08, 2012 9:47 am 
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Edit: got to the computer.

This trip was absolutely epic. 2 epic sunsets, 2 awesome nights of stargazing, awesome weather, 4 awesome peaks, and 5 awesome dudes to enjoy it all with. Thanks to all, I had a great time (except for maybe the last few miles back to the car on day 3 when I thought I might just fall over and die on the side of the trail dizzy.gif ).


Sloan on the way in
Sloan on the way in
berries galore
berries galore
lounging at White Pass
lounging at White Pass
heading for Portal Peak
heading for Portal Peak
rob nearing the summit of Portal
rob nearing the summit of Portal
Portal (Stripe?) Peak benchmark
Portal (Stripe?) Peak benchmark
Glacier from Portal
Glacier from Portal
Rainier with Kaleetan and Chair
Rainier with Kaleetan and Chair
on my way up White, Derek on the summit
on my way up White, Derek on the summit
Kololo at sunset
Kololo at sunset
the setting sun from the slopes of White
the setting sun from the slopes of White
Glacier from White
Glacier from White
White benchmark
White benchmark
Sloan at sunset
Sloan at sunset
heading toward Glacier Gap in the morning
heading toward Glacier Gap in the morning
steep slope down into White Chuck Glacier area
steep slope down into White Chuck Glacier area
sweet
sweet
fun area to hike thru
fun area to hike thru
I love summer sausage
I love summer sausage
glacial melt
glacial melt
Greg hiking along
Greg hiking along
reflection
reflection
White Chuck Lake
White Chuck Lake
Glacier Gap
Glacier Gap
the start of an awesome sunset
the start of an awesome sunset
alpenglow
alpenglow
whoa dude
whoa dude
Sloan
Sloan
alpenglow on Glacier
alpenglow on Glacier
thumbs up!
thumbs up!
last light from back at camp
last light from back at camp
good morning Glacier
good morning Glacier
starting out
starting out
big rock that came off Disappointment Peak
big rock that came off Disappointment Peak
dudes are psyched!
dudes are psyched!
crossing from the Suiattle to the Cool
crossing from the Suiattle to the Cool
gnarly
gnarly
hole
hole
getting closer
getting closer
climbers doing their thing
climbers doing their thing
Derek leading up the summit ridge
Derek leading up the summit ridge
almost there
almost there
sweet bivy area on the summit, I vowed to return to sleep up here next summer
sweet bivy area on the summit, I vowed to return to sleep up here next summer
rob on summit
rob on summit
Lake Byrne?
Lake Byrne?
3 Fingers, Whitehorse
3 Fingers, Whitehorse
Sloan, Vesper, Big 4 etc.
Sloan, Vesper, Big 4 etc.
Glacier benchmark
Glacier benchmark
dudes arriving on summit
dudes arriving on summit
view south
view south
view north, Eldorado in center
view north, Eldorado in center
summit poser
summit poser
Dave on summit
Dave on summit
White Chuck Glacier area
White Chuck Glacier area
the Cool
the Cool
craggy east ridge
craggy east ridge
crevasses
crevasses
heading down
heading down
and up Disappointment
and up Disappointment
Disappointment summitshot
Disappointment summitshot
Rob on the Cool
Rob on the Cool
back on the crux
back on the crux
Derek working his way down
Derek working his way down
Rob mobbing back to camp
Rob mobbing back to camp
looking back
looking back
last look
last look
very sweaty and very exhausted but excited for a beer!
very sweaty and very exhausted but excited for a beer!
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twodogdad
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Joined: 21 Nov 2006
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twodogdad
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PostSat Sep 08, 2012 9:51 am 
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Congratulations, volcano vanquisher! tdd
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teperilloux
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Joined: 05 Aug 2010
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teperilloux
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PostSat Sep 08, 2012 10:10 am 
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Wow, congrats on conquering your nemisis!  Truly extraordinary
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Zekester
Suckin' wind



Joined: 20 Feb 2009
Posts: 379 | TRs
Location: Everett
Zekester
Suckin' wind
PostSat Sep 08, 2012 11:53 am 
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Wow, nice work (and pics)!!   up.gif  up.gif

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Everyone is entitled to be stupid, but some abuse the privilege.
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zephyr
aka friendlyHiker



Joined: 21 Jun 2009
Posts: 1054 | TRs
Location: West Seattle
zephyr
aka friendlyHiker
PostSat Sep 08, 2012 12:44 pm 
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Congratulations!  up.gif   'Looks like you assembled a good team for this one.  Great photos and report.  That same day, Flow and I were a few miles south, high above Big Heart Lake.  We were looking straight at y'all and discussing your route and where you might be.  ~z
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Goats Know
Gravity's Bitch



Joined: 29 Aug 2007
Posts: 173 | TRs

Goats Know
Gravity's Bitch
PostSat Sep 08, 2012 2:03 pm 
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Congratulations, on reaching your goal!  Nice that you were able to do that with your son! up.gif  up.gif

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Here on this mountaintop...Woahoho...I got some wild, wild life  - Talking Heads
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rocknclimb
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Location: Wenatchee Valley
rocknclimb
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PostSat Sep 08, 2012 2:08 pm 
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Could not have asked for a better group of people to climb Glacier Peak with!!!  Having the oppurtunity to climb Washington's five volcanoes w/ my father made it extra special.
Managed a few side trips up White Mountain, Disappointment Pk, and Kololo (nearly)...
Fletcher:  that time from glacier gap to the car is insane eek.gif  Glad you made it safe!
Some extra beta on the route:
The trail from Mackinaw shelter to White pass is covered in blueberries and Huckleberries.
A climbing group reported seeing the northern lights on Wednesday, but unfortunately we had no such luck.
The sunsets and stargazing were some of the best I have ever seen.

Fungus
Fungus
Flowers and White Mountain
Flowers and White Mountain
Pano from White Pass
Pano from White Pass
Kololo
Kololo
White Mt. summit
White Mt. summit
Michael looking at the view
Michael looking at the view
Glacier from white
Glacier from white
Monte Cristo range
Monte Cristo range
Sloan at sunset
Sloan at sunset
Monte Cristos and Sloan
Monte Cristos and Sloan
White and Portal Peaks
White and Portal Peaks
Amazing landscape
Amazing landscape
Honeycomb glacier
Honeycomb glacier
Panorama
Panorama
Entiat Range et al.
Entiat Range et al.
Summit of Kololo ahead
Summit of Kololo ahead
Summit peaking through
Summit peaking through
Sunset pano
Sunset pano
105_0680
105_0680
Spectacular sunset over 3 Fingers
Spectacular sunset over 3 Fingers
Rob and Greg
Rob and Greg
The team
The team
Ridge near the summit
Ridge near the summit
Summit group shot
Summit group shot
Summit pano
Summit pano
Crossing the icefall
Crossing the icefall
Icefall we crossed
Icefall we crossed
Stargazing
Stargazing
105_0640
105_0640

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When asked "Why do you climb"?  Simply respond "Why don't you"?
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veronica
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veronica
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PostSat Sep 08, 2012 5:21 pm 
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Congrats guys!  up.gif  up.gif  up.gif

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Take risks not to escape life, but to prevent life from escaping.

"Stalking" is such a strong word. I prefer "Intense research of an individual".
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Magellan
Brutally Handsome



Joined: 26 Jul 2006
Posts: 13042 | TRs
Location: Inexorable descent
Magellan
Brutally Handsome
PostSat Sep 08, 2012 9:42 pm 
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Nice work fellas.  up.gif  up.gif  That is amazing that three of you were completing your Wa volcano list.  Was the climb done without rope?
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Backpacker Joe
NWH Joe-Bob



Joined: 16 Dec 2001
Posts: 22331 | TRs
Location: Cle Elum
Backpacker Joe
NWH Joe-Bob
PostSat Sep 08, 2012 9:54 pm 
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Strong work.  Great pics.  Ok, NOW what are you going to do? hockeygrin.gif

--------------
"I won't be wronged, I won't be insulted, and I won't be laid a hand on. I don't do these things to other people and I require the same from them."

óWayne's John Bernard Books in The Shootist
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ONELUV1
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ONELUV1
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PostMon Sep 10, 2012 12:06 pm 
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Great group of climbers and dudes.  I'd be happy to climb with any of you again.  Hopefully it's not another 3 years before I see some of you again.

I am happy to have rinsed that bad taste from my mouth and associate Glacier Peak with some good memories.
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Fletcher
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Location: kirkland
Fletcher
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PostMon Sep 10, 2012 9:45 pm 
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Sweet snaps broskey.
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EastKing
Summit Addict



Joined: 28 Mar 2007
Posts: 2041 | TRs
Location: 40 hours week work; 40 hours summit
EastKing
Summit Addict
PostTue Sep 11, 2012 12:58 am 
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Here are some of my photos from the trip!!!

Here is my trip report on Summitpost.org


Slaon Peak
Slaon Peak
On teh way to White Pass
On teh way to White Pass
Glacier Peak
Glacier Peak
New tarn
New tarn
Moonscape
Moonscape
Glacier Peak in the morning
Glacier Peak in the morning
Kololo from on the way
Kololo from on the way
EastKing!
EastKing!
The team!!!
The team!!!
Baker from Glacier
Baker from Glacier
The route down!!
The route down!!
On the Cool!!
On the Cool!!
Heading down!!
Heading down!!
Heading down!!
Heading down!!
Careful!!
Careful!!
Glacier Peak
Glacier Peak
Sunrise on the last day
Sunrise on the last day

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I am addicted to summits! I can't eat, drink or breath without them. Life without mountains would really suck.

http://www.myspace.com/climbandsurfmackg | http://www.summitpost.org/user_page.php?user_id=894
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BearQueen
Ready to Go



Joined: 13 May 2008
Posts: 156 | TRs
Location: Heart is on Lassen
BearQueen
Ready to Go
PostSat Sep 15, 2012 10:31 am 
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Congratulations to everyone on this trip!! What a beautiful area!!!

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"You may say I'm a dreamer, but I'm not the only one.  I hope someday you'll join us, and the world will live as one." by John Lennon
I hope to do some summits and waterfalls this year with my husband EastKing.
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