Forum Index

Trail Talk

Partners

Trip Reports
 

Stewardship
/History 

Gear
/Food/Photo

Support
/Links 

Saloon
/Trade 
Forum Index -> Trip Reports -> American Border Peak (7,994') - September 14-15, 2012
Previous :: Next Topic  
Author Message
Tom_Sjolseth
Born Yesterday



Joined: 30 May 2007
Posts: 2403 | TRs | Pics
Location: The Kent of the East
Post Sun Sep 16, 2012 1:24 am   
 Reply to topic Reply with quote

Jeff H and I had a great trip up American Border Peak this weekend.

We left Seattle at 9:30AM on Friday and made our way to the rustic Twin Lakes road, where we were glad to have a high clearance vehicle.  Along the way, we passed dozens of cars lined up at the Yellow Aster Butte trailhead.  The road beyond Yellow Aster Butte TH is rough, and high clearance is recommended, although we did see a few low clearance vehicles up there (Saturn Sedan, and Pontiac Vibe).

We saddled up and left the trailhead at 1PM.  The trail to High Pass is in great shape, and we were able to make pretty good time up to the 5960' pass.

From High Pass, the trail descends to Gargett Mine, then peters out.  From the mine, we descended about 200' to 5600' where we began a descending traverse to 5400'.  Here, we entered the timber and crossed the rib leading to the basin W of Mt. Larrabee.  This basin is primarily open huckleberry, wildflowers, grass, and scree.  Traversing this second basin, we aimed for a notch at ~6200' which led us into the third basin and camp (3 hours from the TH).  There is space for a couple of bivy sacks at camp, but not much more.  There is running water ~50' below camp.

The next morning we awoke at 6:30 and were moving by 7.  Tedious scree and steep grass slopes led up to a col on the S Ridge of American Border Peak.  From the col, we ascended the ridge crest for ~200' before splitting off to climber's right across red slabs littered with pebbles.  There is a good ledge here though which makes for easy travel.  We aimed for a weakness on climber's right where a short class 3 section was encountered.  Someone had apparently gotten their rope stuck while trying to retrieve it after rappelling the class 3 (or 4?) step.  On the way back down, I retrieved the rope (~25m of 8.3mm) and packed it back out.

Above the class 3 section, 100' of easy scrambling brought us to a notch.  From this notch, we traversed along the E face of ABP on exposed mud/gravel ledges, crossing several riblets along the way.  The final riblet was surmounted via a gully guarded by a snow patch, but we easily avoided the snow by staying in the moat on the right (class 3).

From the top of the snow patch gully, another short ledge traverse brought us to the base of the 50m roped pitch.  The climbing in here is fairly solid with good stemming and positive holds (5.4 max with a lot of class 3).  I clipped one fixed piton and two slings for pro, and didn't need to use the cams I lugged all the way up there.  At the top of the chimney, there is a pretty tight keyhole slot we had to squeeze through.  I brought some Crisco just in case Jeff had trouble, but thankfully I didn't need to use it.

From the top of the roped pitch we scrambled class 3 rock about 20 minutes to the true summit.  The views from the summit are impressive over to Tomyhoi and Slesse, and of course the rest of the Northern N Cascades.  I especially enjoyed seeing the international border swath stretching out in both directions.  It was apparent that the Canadians really pride themselves on their clearcuts as the U.S. side is all forest, and the Canadian side is all clearcuts and logging roads.  Oh, Canada.

The descent was straightforward, and we made two rappels to the base of the roped pitch.  An abundance of tedious scree slopes kept us entertained all the way back to High Pass, and a short trail walk led us back to the parking lot where nearly 100 campers greeted us.  Car camping.. it's the 'merican way!

Overall, this was a great trip with unique and excellent views into the northern reaches of the N Cascades.  The approach is pretty short and the climbing and scrambling is fun.  Thanks to Jeff for sacrificing his car for the journey up the Twin Lakes road, and especially for another fine adventure.

Back to top
View user's profile Search for posts by this user Send private message
RichP
sin rumbo



Joined: 13 Jul 2006
Posts: 1824 | TRs | Pics
Location: Seattle
Post Sun Sep 16, 2012 6:59 am   
 Reply to topic Reply with quote

Tom_Sjolseth wrote:

Great photo and caption of Jeff.

Cartman and I were in the vicinity this weekend and it seemed to be one of the few relatively smoke-free areas around.
Back to top
View user's profile Search for posts by this user Send private message Send e-mail
raising3hikers
Member
Member


Joined: 21 Sep 2007
Posts: 1354 | TRs | Pics
Location: Edmonds, Wa
Post Sun Sep 16, 2012 8:06 am   
 Reply to topic Reply with quote

Nice one Tom up.gif  That's an interesting look at the Canadian border clearcut.  Like that view of Tomyhoi, too
Back to top
View user's profile Search for posts by this user Send private message
HitTheTrail
Member
Member


Joined: 30 Oct 2007
Posts: 3085 | TRs | Pics
Location: Rescuing Shackleton
Post Sun Sep 16, 2012 4:42 pm   
 Reply to topic Reply with quote

Tom_Sjolseth wrote:

Say...That campsite sure looks like a comfy place to bivy.  up.gif  up.gif
Back to top
View user's profile Search for posts by this user Send private message Send e-mail
Snowdog
Member
Member


Joined: 21 Jul 2006
Posts: 755 | TRs | Pics
Location: on (& off) the beaten path
Post Sun Sep 16, 2012 5:37 pm   
 Reply to topic Reply with quote

your buddy Jeff looks more like he's dressed for 'drinks at the country club' in his white button down, as opposed to climbing. huh.gif
I used to wear a white oxford on glaciers all the time until I replaced it with a high tech synthetic version. hockeygrin.gif
oxford cloth is tuff stuff!

--------------
'we don't have time for a shortcut'
Back to top
View user's profile Search for posts by this user Send private message Send e-mail
iron
back in my element



Joined: 10 Aug 2008
Posts: 4062 | TRs | Pics
Location: seattle
Post Sun Sep 16, 2012 8:36 pm   
 Reply to topic Reply with quote

always a good trip when the crisco stays in the pack.

--------------
"the trouble with quotes on the internet is that it's hard to determine whether or not they're genuine." - abraham lincoln
Back to top
View user's profile Search for posts by this user Send private message Send e-mail
Magellan
Brutally Handsome



Joined: 26 Jul 2006
Posts: 11808 | TRs | Pics
Location: Inexorable descent
Post Sun Sep 16, 2012 8:40 pm   
 Reply to topic Reply with quote

Niiiiiiiice.  up.gif
Back to top
View user's profile Search for posts by this user Send private message Send e-mail
dicey
custom title



Joined: 11 May 2004
Posts: 2849 | TRs | Pics
Location: giving cornices a wider berth
Post Tue Sep 18, 2012 12:47 pm   
 Reply to topic Reply with quote

iron wrote:
always a good trip when the crisco stays in the pack.

Yes!

up.gif

--------------
I'm not always sure I like being older but being less stupid has advantages.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/32121172@N00/sets/
Back to top
View user's profile Search for posts by this user Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
Gimpilator
Member
Member


Joined: 12 Oct 2006
Posts: 551 | TRs | Pics
Location: Edmonds, WA
Post Tue Sep 18, 2012 11:03 pm   
 Reply to topic Reply with quote

This peak is rarely climbed as you must have noticed from the register.  A friend and I turned around 950 feet below the summit a few weeks back but the other two in our group made it.  Considering the time of day and my slower speed due to lack of comfort, I decided to call it.


--------------
http://www.summitpost.org/user_page.php?user_id=25744
http://www.peakbagger.com/climber/ClimbListC.aspx?cid=2650&sort=elevft&u=ft&j=-1&y=9999

Keep climbing mountains and don't slip!
Back to top
View user's profile Search for posts by this user Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
Tom_Sjolseth
Born Yesterday



Joined: 30 May 2007
Posts: 2403 | TRs | Pics
Location: The Kent of the East
Post Wed Sep 19, 2012 7:57 am   
 Reply to topic Reply with quote

Yeah I think we were the fourth group to summit since 2009.  A rarely climbed peak for sure.  The mountain will always be there, go back and climb it when you have more time.

RichP.. I liked this one better:

Back to top
View user's profile Search for posts by this user Send private message
Mike Collins
Member
Member


Joined: 18 Dec 2001
Posts: 2181 | TRs | Pics

Post Wed Sep 19, 2012 2:11 pm   
 Reply to topic Reply with quote

Is Jeff talking to you? I usually wait until I am off belay before dissing my partner.
Back to top
View user's profile Search for posts by this user Send private message Send e-mail
Yana
Hater



Joined: 04 Jun 2004
Posts: 3692 | TRs | Pics
Location: Out Hating
Post Wed Sep 19, 2012 2:34 pm   
 Reply to topic Reply with quote

Mike, he's probably not dissing, he's probably saying:

"Can you please pull harder? I think I'm stuck."

or

"Maybe we shouldn't have left the Crisco down at camp."

I'm surprised either of you fit through the keyhole, actually. I thought it was pretty darn small, and I'm tiny.  dizzy.gif

--------------
PLAY SAFE! SKI ONLY IN CLOCKWISE DIRECTION! LET'S ALL HAVE FUN TOGETHER!
Back to top
View user's profile Search for posts by this user Send private message Send e-mail
Gabigabs
Trail Breaker



Joined: 07 Nov 2007
Posts: 781 | TRs | Pics
Location: Seattle
Post Wed Sep 19, 2012 3:41 pm   
 Reply to topic Reply with quote

Great photos. Congrats!

--------------
Life is simple... Eat, Sleep, Hike!
Back to top
View user's profile Search for posts by this user Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
b00
Member
Member


Joined: 29 Sep 2003
Posts: 782 | TRs | Pics

Post Thu Sep 20, 2012 4:48 pm   
 Reply to topic Reply with quote


nice work guys!
i do wonder if handy's gesture was not meant for you, but for me
:>)
Back to top
View user's profile Search for posts by this user Send private message Send e-mail
iron
back in my element



Joined: 10 Aug 2008
Posts: 4062 | TRs | Pics
Location: seattle
Post Thu Sep 20, 2012 4:48 pm   
 Reply to topic Reply with quote

^ i think it's meant for all of us.  up.gif

--------------
"the trouble with quotes on the internet is that it's hard to determine whether or not they're genuine." - abraham lincoln
Back to top
View user's profile Search for posts by this user Send private message Send e-mail
  
Display:     All times are GMT - 8 Hours 
 Post new topic Reply to topic
Forum Index -> Trip Reports -> American Border Peak (7,994') - September 14-15, 2012 1, 2  Next 
  Happy Birthday Mr. Cleanhead!
 
Jump to:   
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You cannot attach files in this forum
You can download files in this forum
Search this topic: 


   Use Disclaimer Powered by phpBB © phpBB Group
Privacy Policy