Forum Index > Trip Reports > Kaleetan Peak (Snoqualmie Pass, Wa)
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Jeb
Summit Driven



Joined: 21 Jul 2012
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Jeb
Summit Driven
PostWed Sep 19, 2012 8:09 pm 
The trip reports that I have researched describe two routes from Melakwa lake to Kaleetan peak: one approaches from the south, following a trail up and over point 5700; the other follows the valley beyond upper Upper Melakwa Lake to Melakwa Pass. The faint bootpath here ends about 1200 feet below Kaleetan's east face. I wanted to explore both routes, and decided scrambling up the east face would be safer and easier than going down it. I took the trail on the west side of Melakwa Lake, then crossed over to the east side of Upper Melakwa Lake. Several paths come and go, but stay steady to the north to Melakwa Pass at the saddle between Kaleetan and Chair Peaks.
Kaleetan and Chair Peaks over Upper Melakwa Lake
Chair Peak Lake with Mt. Roosevelt and Wright Mt. from Melakwa Pass From here I followed the ridge, occasionally dropping down on the south side to avoid thick vegetation, which is eventually released by crumbling rock a the south face becomes the steep east face of Kaleetan Peak. At first i planned on traversing to a sharp SE ridge with trees all the way to the saddle above to avoid exposure, but scrambling up the wide open rock face was way too fun. I rounded over the ridge at about 5800ft and turned North , the steepness ever increasing to the summit.
My route up the East face This is by far the most satisfying summit I have achieved so far. The northeast and northwest faces drop of sharply, going nearly vertical for at least 2000 ft. The Mountaineers have deposited a summit log and someone installed a beautiful plaque listing the elevation and pointing toward a few nearby mountains. I spent about 2 hours surveying the hundreds of surrounding peaks, and about a dozen alpine lakes.chair peak lake was 90% covered in snow and ice, the brilliant blue radiating through the few holes and around the edges. Five separate wildfires were blazing between Wenatchee and Mt Rainer. Two of the smoke stacks rose up dividing Mt Tahoma and Rainier.
Chair Peak from the summit
Very pleased to be where I am
The summit plaque
Summit Log
Lemah, Alta, and Hibox from the summit I took my time carefully scrambling down and was glad to have a trail when I reached it. At the south saddle I ran into a group of the Tacoma mountaineers who had approached via the trail from the south. We exchanged route descriptions before heading our separate ways. The trail was a little faster going, although I did lose it once where several bootpaths spread out.
Kaleetan Peak from Point 5700 to the south, with a few of the Tacoma Mountaineers on their way up After a quick rest and water refill at the lake I hurried back down the trail and made it back to the car just after 4 o'clock making it 9 hours car to car with plenty of time for pictures (about 7-8 miles round trip). I left the dogs behind on this one, but they could easily have made it up to the last 500 ft. if I could have convinced a friend to join me and take time watching them below. I saw 3 groups of 2 on the way up, and about 60 people on the way out. If you make the trip to Melakwa Lake be sure to stop by Snowshoe Falls about 1.5 miles South of the lake.

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PostWed Sep 19, 2012 9:56 pm 

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wolfs
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PostWed Sep 19, 2012 10:07 pm 
2drx: love this quote from your TR: "On the way up, H.Hound asked me how the last bit of Kaleetan was; I replied that people with dogs have climbed it. He then told me that dogs can do things he cannot" Love that summit. The fancy peak finder thing is the sort of artifact I wish we had more of in the 'civilized' (like not true wilderness) Cascades. Still haven't climbed it with snow in the bowl. The way that bowl sits in the sun and allows the snow in it to turn into total mush just spooks me. Like it better as a snow free scramble for that reason.

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SeanSullivan86
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SeanSullivan86
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PostThu Sep 20, 2012 8:41 am 
Jeb wrote:
Lemah, Alta, and Hibox from the summit
The mountain left of center is Three Queens, not Lemah. Cool trip! Kaleetan has been near the top of my mental ticklist for awhile, but I haven't gone and done it yet frown.gif

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The Angry Hiker
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The Angry Hiker
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PostThu Sep 20, 2012 9:05 am 
So in your opinion, which is the easier ascent? Melakwa Pass, or via Pt 5700?

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puzzlr
Mid Fork Rocks



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puzzlr
Mid Fork Rocks
PostThu Sep 20, 2012 11:11 am 
There's a third popular variation that goes up a gully from the scree beyond Melakwa. Your route from the pass looks more interesting, with less rock fall danger from others above. Does anyone know when the plaque was placed on Kaleetan and by whom? A TR on WTA mentions it in 2002, so it's been there at least 10 years.

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evergreen199
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PostThu Sep 20, 2012 11:52 am 
puzzlr, I have a close-up photo of the plaque. It has the date 6/23/35 and looks like it was placed by the "Cony Rover Crew"

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klar
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PostThu Sep 20, 2012 7:59 pm 
Number 8 screws? Will try to replace with square drive stainless before the snows fly ...

I wish I could write as mysterious as a cat. Edgar Allan Poe
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kbatku
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kbatku
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PostThu Sep 20, 2012 8:41 pm 
klar wrote:
Number 8 screws? Will try to replace with square drive stainless before the snows fly ...
Just out of curiosity, why would you do such a thing? It's been there since 1935 and you are trying to make it "better" by modernizing the screws? Why not leave well enough alone?

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The Angry Hiker
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The Angry Hiker
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PostFri Sep 21, 2012 8:38 am 
Or better yet, just remove it entirely. It's not like people don't already know the names of the surrounding peaks.

zimmertr
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Jeb
Summit Driven



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Jeb
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PostSun Sep 23, 2012 11:30 pm 
The trail over Pt 5700 is much easier in my opinion, but that may likely change from a route-finding perspective when snow covers the ground. As far as the summit plaque, I couldn't quite make out the year. It's incredible that the thing has survived so long,I can't imagine why anyone would want to go messing with it.

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