[Gimpilator]

I met Redwic, Josh Lewis, and Michael Lewis at Rainy Pass. We drove to Silver Star Creek for the north approach. Ryan had told me, "Don't do that route. There's a lot of large talus you can fall into. You'll hate it. You'll turn around.". He was right about the talus. The first half of the route had a lot of dead-fall and the trail was faint in spots.

the col above

here come the mounties

We avoided slide alder below the headwall and had some difficulty choosing the way up. Our beta was confusing and we wasted a lot of time near the headwall. We also had some trouble above it on the descent, trying to locate the spot we had scrambled up.

north ridge of west peak

below the glacier

Beyond the headwall, the route became more pleasant with less trees and more to see. The Lewis brother and I watched in horror as Redwic triggered a landslide of rocks on one steep talus slope. One of the rocks was as big as a car. We were relieved when we discovered he was unharmed.

on the glacier

not a crevasse in sight

Just below the glacier, a group of 11 mountaineers who had been on our heels, passed us with a burst of energy. We watched them cross the glacier unroped. We had with us all the gear necessary for proper glacier travel, but seeing the glacier as it was, without a single crevasse visible, we collectively agreed with the mounties decision. We followed their tracks up to the col.

near the col

Josh at the col

Above the col, things got more interesting. The final slope was steeper and the snow over the rocks was thin in places. Crampons were necessary. When we reached the final scramble, we were forced to wait for nearly 30 minutes for the other climbers to clear the way.

steep snow

the hidden gully

A class 4 section is easily avoidable by following a small ledge around to the south and then scrambling up a gully to the highest rock. It's a climb to actually touch the top of the highest rock, but it's fairly well protected and a fall would not likely be serious unless it was down to the climbers left. I did not get any pictures of the summit, but I think someone else in our group did.

Michael in the gully

Redwic downclimbing

Thanks for driving Craig!

[Magellan]

Looks a little more complex than I had imagined. Way to get it done.

[Jetlag]

Magellan, only three weeks ago this climb was a LOT less complex. I am surprised, though, to see that the bergschrund on the upper glacier has not opened up more. It looks almost exactly the same as when we crossed it. Gimpilator, apologies if my directions to Redwic were incomplete. For us there was no real decision-making from the lower headwall up the slope to Vasiliki. Could you see our camp of piled-up ice blocks? Sounds like snowmelt has revealed the lower deadfall section already. Terrific pictures! That's a new schrund that's opened up at the moraine . . . precisely where I left my pack!

[Josh Journey]

Here's our route: View larger size in new window

[Redwic]

[Gimpilator]

[Josh Journey]

Here's my photos from the trip:

Morning Clouds on Silver Star

Sunrise from the Trailhead

The Beginning

Constrasting Lights on Silver Star

The Wine Spires

Enjoying the View

Silver Star and the Wine Spires

Heading up the Lower Basin

Approaching Bad Terrain

Heading up through the Woods

My brother with the Wine Spires

Heading Up

Silver Star from the Boulder Field

The Mountaineers Invasion

Approaching the Glacier

The Congo Line with Wine Spire

The upper Glacier

View from the Col

Sinister Peak and Dome Peak

The summit Snow Climb

Looking down at the Col

View to the West

Looking Down on Liberty Bell

Gimpilator and Redwic at the Summit

My bro chillin out

My brother down Climbing

Tree out of a Rock

[gb]

Flow, your 4th shot - of the wine spires with lighting contrast is especially good.

[Redwic]

[MLHSN]

Any photos down to the east? I'm trying to gauge the snow around varden lake. Thanks for the report!

[Michael Lewis]

Thanks again Redwic for inviting me on this one. And Josh and Gimpilator have some nice photos to their credit. This was a gorgeous mountain.

[Fletcher]

Nice job, Silver Star is a fun one. The Silver Star Creek approach was pretty pleasant when I did it in April but we were also socked in on the summit. I imagine the views are awesome.

[wildernessed]

Good summit and beautiful mountain, now I enjoy the various views from different mountains around it.