[More Cowbell]

My good friend all the way back from our freshman year in college and I planned a fantastic vacation to the land of some of our ancestors. You also see her husband in many of my hiking reports but he was happy to let us run free in the land of the brave. My trip reports rarely have too many photos to choose from but this time was obviously different. I tried to find hikes that would fit in to our itinerary but stuff happens (like big huge giant blisters on your toe the size of your toe and days of travel burnout etc.). Next time, I'll be more prepared. That said, I highly recommend Scotland to all of you. I was impressed with the food and people from day 1 and it never stopped. Taxi drivers were often buttheads until we tipped. The guide books all said tipping is 10% but that's a hard thing to get used to and not feel guilty about. Would I go again? YES Would I recommend that you all go? YES PM me for loan of any guide books or hiking books (for Skye). Do I want to rent a 12 bedroom castle for a week next time and invite all my cool friends? YES Do I want to go back to Knoydart and stay 5 days instead of 3. HELL YES. Does the exchange rate totally suck? YES But the cost of food is cheap while being high quality. Do I listen to Runrig now? Well I did buy one CD. I can't decide if they're dorky or just awesome. I mean only the Scots would rock out to Loch Lomond. Did I find my roots? Kind of. Those heather moors sure seemed familiar to me. We basically did a big clockwise loop around northern and central Scotland, starting and ending in Edinburgh. All through our trip the Scots would remark on our luck with the weather as it had just been sucky until the day we got there. We also missed the hatching of the evil midges. by a few days so bugs weren't a problem at all. Monday, May 27 Leaving on a jet plane. Tuesday, May 28 - London/Edinburgh Our first views of Edinburgh were of lots of construction and a maze of streets that made us thoroughly disoriented when we arrived at our B & B at 2 Fingal Place. Turns out this location couldn't have been better for seeing the old town sites. We were right by the university, across the street from "The Meadows" and walking distance from almost everything. Our first evening we zombie walked our way right into the coolest grave yard I had never heard of but is of course very well known. Greyfriars Tolbooth & Highland Kirk

This dog is apparently famous.

More Greyfriars Kirk

Lots of things to read here

View from the Kirkyard

Flodden Wall looking at the most $$$ private school in Edinburgh

An even better Dude

Not zoomed

Captions welcome.

A typical example from this fine graveyard.

The "Thing" to have above your final resting place.

Looking at Heriot's School

RIP

We had a lovely pub dinner of fish pie at Greyfriars Bobby Bar and wandered around a bit more before crashing with 8 hour time difference jet lag exhaustion. Then we both woke up in 2 hours and had to read for a couple of hours before crashing again. Jet lag is weird.

Fish Pie is GOOD

I used this spire to orient myself through the crazy maze of street and closes.

Edinburgh Castle

Hogwarts has to be based on this school

George Heriot's School again

Wednesday, May 29 Edinburgh Grandpa's Alma Mater

Nod to Grandpa, Dr. Arthur Patrick Rideout James

Many of Scotland's museums are free, the National Museum of Scotland is one of them. We got through about 1/4 of it before wilting. It was huge and full of interesting stuff that you can take photos of (except the amber exhibit). Go up to the roof for views.

View from the top of the museum

View from the museum of Greyfriars Kirk, Edinburgh Castle and Bog Myrtle

The top of Edinburgh looking out to the Firth of Forth.

We wandered Old Town some more and found the most fantastic lunch spot. Oink

The best pulled pork sandwich ever.

Scot Monument

Add a description

View through a bridge

Where Harry Potter came to life

Funny

Coffee Cart Sign

Dinner with a view

Castle view from our restaurant

Another visit to the Kirkyard

Info on the Mortsafes

Iron Mortsafe

Thursday, May 30 Edinburgh This was our last full day and we filled it full.

Not many of these to be found

A great bridge over Waverly Train Station

That's Haggis/Neeps/Carrot Pie in the background and it was deemed

Chicken pie was a hit

Our first hike to Arthur's Seat via Salisbury Crags. If you read Ian Rankin novels you will recognize this place as a popular body dumping location.

View from Salisbury Crags

Sue under the crags

Sue and Gorse

On the way up to Arthur's Seat.

No climbing.

Near Arthur's Seat

Looking at Arthur's Seat

Gorse, Firth of Forth, St Anthony's Chapel ruin

Ruin of St Anthony's Chapel

HRH's Scottish Vacation Cabin

Edinburgh Castle

Friday, May 31 Train from Edinburgh to Glasgow Adelaides Guest House. Wow, Glasgow was much different than Edinburgh. Less touristy and more gritty. Worth seeing for sure.

A beautiful day to take the train from Edinburgh to Glasgow

Willow Tea Room

Street music in Glasgow

In Scotland it's TK Maxx

Time Tripping in Glasgow

Saturday, June 1 West Highland Express Train from Glasgow/Fort William/Mallaig/Boat pick up to Knoydart Photos from the train:

West Highland Express train

View from the train to Mallaig

Croftland on the way to Fort William

Train to Mallaig

Logging in Scotland

The heather moors

From the train to Fort William

West Highland Express train to Mallaig

LUNCH!

First Haddock and Chips of the trip in Mallaig

And on to Doune Knoydart. A little slice of wilderness heaven. You stay 3 or 5 days here at Doune and they pick you up in Mallaig (unless you want to walk 20 miles in from the mainland) via boat for a thrilling trip across the Sound of Sleat.

The ferry to Skye from our boat to Doune

Boat to Doune Knoydart

Views to Knoydart

We stayed in a twin room which had the most divine view of Skye across the Sound.

We can see southern Skye straight across the water from our room. Stags would munch on the grass in the eveing. Bliss

We took a little walk around our home away from home for the next three days and found many cool places, things and beings.

Wild Primroses Everywhere

Scottish Anenome

The beach at Doune

A short hike from our cabin

The Isle of Eigg from Doune

The Sound of Sleat

Talisker in the heather and bluebells

The best kind of dog to find in the Highlands

I didn't take photos of the food but should have. When you stay at Doune, all your meals are taken care of by the wonderful chefs that live here. Every single meal was incredible. Lunch is packed up for you to take on a hike and OMG. We loved those lunches. Sunday, June 2 Doune Knoydart I was having weird allergies (Gorse? Bluebells? both of which were in full bloom) so we took it easy and just walked the "track" toward the tiny town of Inverie this day.

Bracken Fern in baby stage

This lawn is mowed by Stags.

Looking down on our happy place of Doune

Above the Sound of Sleat looking at the Isle of Skye

The track into Inverie around Sandaig Bay

Sandaig Bay looking across to Mallaig

Peat - Filters the best water for tea

Sue looking towards Loch Nevis

Lunch Break on Knoydart

The heather moors or "Muirlands" on Knoydart

Ferns in rocks

Stag in the Highlands

Wild Orchid?

Looking southwest from Knoydart

Zooming to the Isle of Skye

Back at the cabins we see our studly stag friends.

Stags outside of our cabin

Monday, June 3 Knoydart/Inverie You can pay a little extra and get driven into Inverie or taken to remote hiking locations by boat. Due to the tides we had the option of being driven in and dropped off at the Knoydart Trust Lands for a nice 10 mile RT Glen/Loch hike. This location was absolutely stunning in it's beauty. Like nothing we see around here at all.

Trail signs

Punny

The middle of that field was full of deer.

Some sort of cairn in the highlands. Stags were also up on this little bump.

Looking back at the cairn

She's waiting for us

Gleann an Dubh-Lochain

Turning into a warm day

Ruin near the loch

Sue at the Loch

Gleann an Dubh-Lochain

Cow, sky, moors, clouds

You lookin' at me?

Zoomed up

Check out those Scottish clouds

We ended back up in Inverie at the most remote Pub in the UK. The Old Forge. Great place.

Bench humor in Inverie

Inverie Bay

The remotest pub in the UK, Inverie, Knoydart, Scotland

Back at Doune we had our final meal with the 5 other guests which had now become a great set of friends. A large hiking group was staying in the Lodge at Doune and they would sit at the larger table in the dining room across from us. Stags in the evening

Stags mowing the grass

Tuesday, June 4 Knoydart/Train at Mallaig to Fort William- Pick up car and drive to the Isle of Skye

Harry Potter Bridge. The best photo I could muster up while in a fast train.

Now for the scary part. DRIVING. I felt comfortable with the idea of right hand drive and driving on the left, what I wasn't prepared for were the narrow lanes and lack of shoulders. So if large trucks, busses, or whatever are heading towards you on the right, you absolutely cannot veer to the left or you might end up in mud, gravel or trash your tires. Luckily this did not happen. But it could have. This took some getting used to and made for seriously stressful driving in the most beautiful areas I have ever driven in.

Historic Battle Site 1719 and our lovely rental Ford. The drive on A87 through this area was lovely.

Gotta stop for this castle

Elean Donan Castle, with very poor lighting.

Castle view from our right hand drive Ford

And finally on the magical Isle of Skye

1st photo on the Isle of Skye

Kilt Rocks. A tourist stop but still impressive.

Kilt Rocks, Skye

We stayed here (the cheapest room available)

Flora MacDonald's Cottage

Corner of our hotel

FLODIGARRY COUNTRY HOUSE HOTEL For sale Wednesday, June 5 Isle of Skye Today we hit our big burn out day, and coupled with my elephant sized toe blister and single track road driving burnout, we opted to take the bus into the main town of Portree. This was such a great idea that we did this the next day too. But first we took a little walk around Flodigarry.

Flodigarry, Isle of Skye

This is one of the most beautiful places you could ever visit.

Flodigarry/Trotternish Basalt Tables

Flodigarry Hotel - We stayed in the (not visible) cottage of the Flora MacDonald of Scots fame.

Crab Pots Isle of Skye

Sue on the beach. Nasty rock walking.

Basalt formations of the Trotternish

It was almost Scottish Thistle time

Yes, this is for real. Flodigarry, Skye. Great cloud shots guaranteed.

Looking at and beyond our hotel on Skye. Too bad the views were so blah.

Corncrake Notice - CREX CREX

Flodigarry Sheep

Typical scene on the single track roads of Skye.

The bus rides were pretty stunning with the views they allowed but also mind blowing in the drivers skills to stay on the pavement when passing other vehicles.

Just a view from the Uig Bus

Old man of Storr

Bus shot of the Old Man of Storr

Thursday, June 6 Isle of Skye Portree is a fun little town. Worth exploring with many dining options.

Lunch in Portree

Friday, June 7 Skye/Ullapool/Durness The drive from Skye to Durness was the most amazing of all. You go through all variety of landscape and at one point you might as well be driving a single track paved road through the enchantments it's so damn gorgeous. We only stopped in Ullapool for lunch but next time we will stay in this cool little town.

On our way to Ullapool

This was a gorgeous area to drive through, heading to Ullapool.

Gorse and Loch Broom

Sheep dodging

Calda House at Loch Assynt

Ardvreck Castle on Loch Assynt

A stunning location complete with resident sheep.

On the way to Durness

Sue w/Laxford Bridge

Water, granite, heather, sheep everywhere

And then we arrived at a fantastic little hotel at the northern tip of Scotland with 'award winning' beaches. Mackay’s; Durness; Sutherland The rooms were luxurious and the food was pretty damn special. You can walk to almost all of the sights from here and we chose to do that the next day.

These rock walls will shred your clothing

Saturday, June 8 Durness/Balnakiel/Smoo Cave

A wonderful walk to the beach from our lodgings.

So pretty

Balnakiel Beach. Just another tourist filled beach on the North Atlantic.

Sue on the beautiful empty beach

Cemetary above Balnakiel Beach

Balnakiel Cemetary

Balnakiel Cemetary

Red Campion

Yes, this was lunch one day.

Mansize.

Award winning beach

Noisy - Black Headed Gull

Crowded beaches of Scotland

Scottish snail melange

Award winning beach

Sea Pinks

The Award Winning Beach at Durness

Smoo Cave outlet to the sea

Smoo Cave

Gotta try Irn Bru (Iron Brew). Also deemed

Sue tries Irn Bru. Ask her what she thought of it. It's supposedly the Scots cure for Hangovers.

Sunday, June 9 Drive from Durness via Tongue, Thurso to North Kessock Inverness The first half of this drive over the North Coast of Scotland was also pretty amazing.

Moors and Mountains

Mountains near Tongue

Northern Scotland and Gorse, check out that amazing beach across the water.

Bettyhill, just the ho hum views from our drive across northern Scotland.

And we happened upon the best TeaHouse for lunch we could have ever hoped for.

The Tearoom at Laidhay Croft Museum. Best tea and scones of the trip.

It was closed but the tea room wasn't

After a long day of driving we ended up at our next B & B Craigiewood with our very pleasant host Minty. Their gardens are gorgeous and the bird song is crazy.

Scots Pine

Male Pheasant

Monday, June 10 Inverness, Nairn, Cawdor This day was all about castles and both were worth the $10 pound fees.

Brodie Castle - The family castle. I think I was too tired to take any more photos so this is all I took. You are not allowed photos inside the castles otherwise there would have been 100's more. This was a great tour.

Cawdor Castle & Gardens. This is a must see.

Cawdor Castle - Great gift shops too.

Castle and gardens

The only siting of the elusive Red Squirrel

Tuesday, June 11 Train to Edinburgh Another lovely train ride and we were back in Edinburgh where rain was happening for only the 2nd time of our tour. This day was kind of a bust due to our late arrival and muggy weather but we wandered around a different section of Edinburgh and tossed as many toiletries in the garbage as possible to keep our luggage under 55 lbs for the flight back. Too tired for any more photos apparently. Wednesday, June 12 Fly home and successfully make it through customs.

[HitTheTrail]

So beautiful and full of history. My best plate of fish and chips ever was in Ullapool.

[lookout bob]

darn you McCowbell....now I've got to go back.... lovely pics!!!

[Hiker Mama]

Looks fabulous!

[LP]

I've been looking forward to your TR. Fantastic photos. Now I just have to figure out how to do the Coast to Coast (been following Meandering Washington's blog) and also get to Knoydart and Skye. I've been to Glasgow and loved it - missed Edinburgh (never enough time!) but one thing I wanted to see there is Greyfriar's Bobbie - if you want a tear jerker check out the old (Disney?) movie.

[More Cowbell]

Thanks everyone. Tour buses pull up to a statue of Greyfriars Bobby and everyone gets out and takes a photo of it. I found it amusing as the Kirkyard is much more interesting and is steps away. I forgot many items of interest about our trip. Here are a few:

• EVERYONE jaywalks in Edinburgh and Glasgow. I had the hardest time adjusting to that kind of freedom.

• As a pedestrian, you have to remember to look the opposite direction for oncoming cars than you are used to.

• No one drives with their lights on during the day. Seemed crazy to me since I wanted everyone to know I was heading towards them on those narrow roads.

• All of Scotland smelled incredible with the exception of a few buildings in the cities that had a very ancient moldy smell.

• Toilets flush very violently. Back away.

• The water is good and naturally soft. Peaty water (at Knoydart) is even better. It makes your hair do things it's never done before.

• Tea service puts the US to shame. Unfortunately there are Starbucks all over the place. We refused to go in one to see if things were any better than here.

• When in Edinburgh, wear sensible shoes. I had to switch from my Seattle sensible shoes to my hiking shoes as the wildly cobbled streets were giving me many near miss ankle sprains.

[kite]

Wow! one more thing to add to my list of places to see

[More Cowbell]

More tidbits about Scotland:

• The Gorse looks like Scotch Broom but isn't. Gorse smells like coconut. It's not what you would expect Scotland to smell like.

• Stinging Nettle is quite happy to grow out in the open and full sun.

• Late May and early June are great for avoiding crowds. I was worried about Friday or Sunday traffic on the single track roads but we rarely passed any other cars. More sheep than cars actually.

• Tea and coffee are served with milk not cream or half and half. I loved this.

• Speed limit signs are pretty much nonexistent. If there is one it's a little tiny circle. There are many signs about speed cameras near the cities and most patrol cars are unmarked. There are lots and lots of pull outs for tourists like myself to let the speedsters pass. I did this all the time.

• The "Full Scottish Breakfast" is quite a thing indeed. We never did order one that included everything. Which would have been: Cereal, yogurt, fruit, juice, tea/coffee, pastries, eggs, bacon, black pudding (look it up), sautéed mushrooms, baked tomato and even a potato scone. Their Bacon is more like really really good thin and long Canadian bacon. If you think about a meal like this being included with your B & B stay it's really quite a deal.

[seawallrunner]

ooooo terrific trip report More Cowbell !! Loved seeing Scotland through your eyes. I am definitely returning soon, I feel like I barely scratched the surface during my own meanderings. Too bad we did not meet up while we were both in the same country - though we were on opposite sides geographically. I am plowing through my own photos (hoping to reduce the 4,500 photos I took to something more manageable at 10% or less) and will post a trip report in the next few weeks. Re the breakfasts - yes they are legendary. and they also inexplicably also include baked beans. As for the blood sausage - oh my GAWD that stuff is good. Esp the one from Stornoway. The Scottish government approved a special appellation for the sausages (similar to wines in France, for example) and there are four butchers in the Hebrides - all in Stornoway - that specialize in this. Amazing, yummy, delicious rich food. Regarding Wainwright's Coast to Coast hike - LP, I am planning to do this next summer. Maps on order from Ordnance Survey as we speak

[LP]

Seawallrunner, I would happily look at all 4,500 of your pics! I look at MC's every day and dream. I wish I had unlimited time and money so I could do UK justice, everywhere I see I want to go - C2C, Snowdonia, Lake District - how to pick??? What I loved about the Glencoe area was the wide open trackless walking with views that went forever. That is what appeals so much about Knoydart. Never tried the Blood Pudding but I ate potato scones every morning - my Grandmother was from Scotland and I grew up on them.

[Navy salad]

Great trip report and photos! Brings back memories from our trip which was limited mostly to northern Scotland. I can relate to the perils of driving down those skinny roads with no shoulders only to see an oversize lorry coming the other way!

[More Cowbell]

Thanks again everyone. I forgot about the porridge. Add that to the full breakfast options too. How could I have forgotten about the icon of Scotland's breakfast menu? I've been watching the weather over there since I came home. It's been in the glorious 70's while we sweltered away in Seattle. Seawall's report should be very exciting indeed. Can't wait.