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cartman
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cartman
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PostWed Jul 23, 2014 12:00 pm 
I've been wanting to do Thompson for years--yes, I know it's probably properly spelled without the 'p', but I've been thinking of it with for all those years, so I'm going with it--and Friday's forecast looked good so off we went. One note: The East Ridge of Thompson is not a class 3 route, nor is it a class 3 route with one 4th class move. It's a bit more serious than that. Definitely consider bringing a rope to downclimb or rappel the crux section. We did not, but got lucky. See below for details. I hadn't done a trip with Mike C. in quite some time and it was great to see him again. Mike thought it would be more interesting to begin the approach on the old Cascade Crest Trail so we parked at the same TH as for the PCT start and headed up the CCT in the fog. Both of us wore trail runners the entire trip. To stay on the CCT one needs to cross the log bridge over Commonwealth Creek.
Log bridge
Log bridge
Mike had forgotten that and I knew nothing about the CCT so we stayed on the east side of the creek on a path that quickly faded out. Then we started schwacking uphill, not too bad. Fortunately Mike had his trail radar on.
O Canada
O Canada
Great, now we're in Canada. Man, were we turned around. After dispensing with the off-trail shenanigans, turns out we were actually up on the PCT and ready to roll. The fog quickly started to lift.
Guye in the fog
Guye in the fog
Guye
Guye
Guye and Snoqualmie
Guye and Snoqualmie
As we gained elevation on the trail the views kept improving.
Fog in the valley
Fog in the valley
Snoqualmie
Snoqualmie
Kaleetan
Kaleetan
Kaleetan and Snoqualmie
Kaleetan and Snoqualmie
The PCT is in great shape with very little snow on the west side traverse, and that will likely be all gone by the end of the month.
PCT
PCT
As we rose higher approaching the notch to the Katwalk, it was fun to see how more distant peaks were framed by notches in the nearer ones.
Big Snow
Big Snow
First view of Thompson
First view of Thompson
Overcoat
Overcoat
We reached the notch,
To the Katwalk
To the Katwalk
and onto the snow-free Katwalk.
Mike on the Katwalk
Mike on the Katwalk
Kendall Katwalk
Kendall Katwalk
The Katwalk is kool. I'd never been on the PCT past Kendall Peak, so this was my first time walking it. This is also where we saw our first backpackers; from here on we'd see people most of the day. The views were good on the other side, but once on the east side of the ridges they improved dramatically. The contrast between the different colors of rock, vegetation, peaks and sky was a kaleidoscope of riches. But all was not well in Oz...
What's this?
What's this?
Saucer clouds!
Saucer clouds!
Alien invasion!!
Alien invasion!!
Four Brothers surrounded
Four Brothers surrounded
Turns out they were merely benign Lenticularians. There was definitely more snow on the PCT on this side, it will be into August before it's all melted out; but except for one spot requiring a little care, it was all low angle and easy where there was snow on the trail. We continued our merry wandering on the PCT,
Continuing on the PCT
Continuing on the PCT
reaching Ridge Lake in good time.
Ridge Lake
Ridge Lake
Passing the lake we took the trail another half mile to the climber's turnoff for Bumblebee Pass.
PCT traverse
PCT traverse
Up to Bumblebee Pass
Up to Bumblebee Pass
As I'm hiking up to the pass Mike says something, and then A THING goes rocketing by downhill not five feet away. I got just enough of a glimpse to determine it was a marmot in full panic mode. That boy was moving so fast his feet never touched the ground--he was literally skimming the heather and vegetation. And that was our wildlife sighting for the day. Up at the pass we had our first good look at Thompson's East Ridge.
Thompson from the pass
Thompson from the pass
Since we weren't wearing boots and the snow was a little too firm for good plunging in trail runners, we scrambled slowly down the steep grass and dirt the 300+ feet to the basin below.
Down to the basin
Down to the basin
Here is where another pair of climbers (Tom & Krystal) caught up to us; we'd play leapfrog with them for much of the route up. The basin is fairly broad with great running water. Still mostly snow-filled, it would make for great camping and room to wander around. After a short break we started the snow then rock slog up to the right-hand notch.
Thompson from the basin
Thompson from the basin
Up to the notch
Up to the notch
Mike went more up the center and I more right up fairly loose talus; we both schwacked a short bit through the band of trees to continue farther right up to the notch. The actual climber's route is more to the left as we discovered on the way down. There's a faint climber's path in the rock if you can find it that becomes more dirt higher up and crosses the very minor rib not far below the base of the rock wall, then skirts the base of the rock on an obvious hardpack dirt path to the notch. As we discovered the hardpack paths here and on the ridge give relatively poor traction and it's often easier to walk beside instead of on the paths for better footing. Once on the ridge proper we continued straight up from the notch; the climber's path, which was under snow here for a little ways, actually crosses right from the notch about a hundred feet then continues up.
On the East Ridge
On the East Ridge
More views here:
Big Snow
Big Snow
Burnt Boot
Burnt Boot
The route alternates between heather slopes and rock bands. The ridge is fairly broad in places, so sticking to the climber's path between rock bits was a good indicator that we were on route. We reach a bit more serious class 3 section,
Third class
Third class
which we scramble up from the one good start point on the gravel bench at its base, and then the path traverses left a hundred feet or so to the crux of the climb.
Not third class
Not third class
(Picture taken after descent; rope not available on the climb up) This is not class 3; it's at least stiff class 4, and I'm convinced it's low class 5--as if there's really a difference. And not for one move, but for a good half dozen, about 15'. Mike went up while I was checking out the route to the left--lots of air--and I walked back over to give it a look. It's essentially an open book with good holds on the left but not much on the smooth face on the right. After considering it I just went up pretty quickly, piecing it together as I went. One of the right foot holds was just my instep on the edge of the fin since there was little else. These were climbing moves without a rope, which is why I think it's class 5. Note the small overhang at the top; this would make downclimbing pretty sketchy, and is one of the main reasons to have a rope handy for the return. I'm sure we were on route as this is where the climber's path led with no other viable options, and is where the other two parties ahead of us went. It also has the least exposure and put us right where we needed to be to finish. Scrambling above the crux was all class 2/3 shortly to the summit.
To the summit
To the summit
Here we met Jim and Heinz, just lounging about enjoying the day.
Mike, Jim, Heinz
Mike, Jim, Heinz
Turns out Jim climbed Thompson two weeks after heart surgery. That's tough, and inspiring. Thompson has fantastic 360 degree views, especially into the Chimney Rock area.
Home court peaks
4 labels
Home court peaks
Chikamin and Stuart
Chikamin and Stuart
Three Queens
Three Queens
Hibox and Alta
Hibox and Alta
Kendall and Rainier
Kendall and Rainier
We chatted with the others and signed the register,
Thompson register
Thompson register
and Jim and Heinz generously allowed us to use their rope to downclimb the spicy bit, which I was very glad to have. Coming down it was much easier to find the climber's path to the notch and then also down to the basin.
Thompson
Thompson
Back up to the pass and over to the lake under skies more sunny than in the morning,
Back to Ridge Lake
Back to Ridge Lake
continuing to enjoy the views.
Huckleberry and Chikamin
Huckleberry and Chikamin
Chikamin and Four Brothers
Chikamin and Four Brothers
Verdant meadows on the way back to the Katwalk:
Greeeen
Greeeen
and nice water on the PCT.
Waterfall
Waterfall
Once back to the junction of the PCT and the Commonwealth Basin Trail, Mike wanted to see where we'd gone wrong in the am and to take the Cascade Crest Trail back, as it's more direct. We hiked down the CBT a hundred feet or so to another unsigned junction and turn left. Now on the Cascade Crest Trail we take the very good trail down to Commonwealth Creek, cross on some rocks, walk the trail for perhaps a quarter mile downstream then cross the log bridge to where we'd diverged in the morning, and out. Many thanks to Mike for the excellent trip and company, and for the lift. It's a fantastic area I'm sure I'll return to. 15 miles, 4900' gain Eric J. Johnson

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puzzlr
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puzzlr
Mid Fork Rocks
PostWed Jul 23, 2014 12:12 pm 
Big day, but you picked a good one. In my head I had elevated the difficulty of Thomson so when we got to that crux I was pleased that it wasn't harder. We did use a hand line coming down -- I agree that it's a good idea.

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Type E
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PostWed Jul 23, 2014 1:15 pm 
Nice to see something involving MIke, Nice contrast in weather from start to finish. The harder portion that you pictured is hard to determine how big the section is. How many feet of higher than class 3? What is the exposure for this portion? Really loved the basin below Bumblebee Pass on my visit to Edd's lake a lifetime ago. Nice work, Eric

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Malachai Constant
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Malachai Constant
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PostWed Jul 23, 2014 1:26 pm 
The crux is less than one lead but is very exposed. There was a fatality there several years ago that is very heart rendering to read about.

"You do not laugh when you look at the mountains, or when you look at the sea." Lafcadio Hearn
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joker
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PostWed Jul 23, 2014 1:54 pm 
I recall being grateful for some leftover slings that were at the top of that crux bit (back in the late '90s), which I greedily used for a bit of assistance getting down the hardest bit of it. My wife and our other trip mate both downclimbed it no problem w/o any such shenanigans, but they are both pretty confident on rock.

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Mike Collins
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Mike Collins
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PostWed Jul 23, 2014 4:15 pm 
Roberta Mohrholz was the woman who died on Thompson in Sept, 1989. I do not believe she died at the usual route of ascent which Cartman has provided a photo of with the red rope. I believe she had her fatal fall on the south face of the mountain, to the climbers left of the crux for the climb. Here is the Seattle Times article written after the tragic event. http://community.seattletimes.nwsource.com/archive/?date=19900923&slug=1094686 It is important on Thomson (current name) to not go to climbers left in exploring a route to the summit. I went that way away from Cartman and it was apparent that it involved considerable risk. The crux of the climb offers bomber handholds that do not involve friction for the ascent. To the left are slabs needing friction and any moisture (as was on the day of the fatal fall) would be very dangerous.

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Malachai Constant
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Malachai Constant
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PostWed Jul 23, 2014 5:00 pm 
When we did it we were probably off route (not unusual for us) dizzy.gif as we did not see bomber holds only dicey friction. I remember the brown Becky also had the notch on the wrong side. We said it was because he was ambidextrous. wink.gif

"You do not laugh when you look at the mountains, or when you look at the sea." Lafcadio Hearn
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