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PostSun Sep 22, 2013 1:22 am 
Long Island - Willapa National Wildlife Refuge 09-19-13 low tide 08:43 PDT - .3 - high tide 14:25 PDT 9.8 usgs 7.5 topo Long Island - trail map available online The tide tables I found online were off by over 30 minutes. Wildlife Refuge headquarters gave me the correct tide times. (360) 484 3482 It's best to cross the channel at high tide. Be sure to launch and land from the boat ramps- the tidal mud will suck your shoes off. From the boat ramp, I paddled across the channel.
I found three kayaks tied up on the other side. The trail wastes no time ascending uphill along an old logging road. The last time I was here it was hard-packed dusty gravel road. It appears abandoned now, with a nice layer of duff on the road surface for a cushion.
The road climbs up to about 230 feet and meanders around the west side of the island through even-aged second growth stands of mostly hemlock. Once past the first hump, the noise from 101 ceases- from there it's total quiet except for an occasional Steller's Jay.
At 2.5 miles, a side trail leads off to the cedar grove trail. I ran into three ladies just as I got there who were looking for the rest of their party. I told them I'd seen nobody. They went down the trail into the cedar grove, so I figured I'd take a little side trip. About a half mile past the cedar grove trail a side trail drops down to the Smoky Hollow camping area. I walked down to take a look at the beach for a little bit and watched as four kayakers paddled by. I wondered if they were the people the three ladies were looking for.
The Don Bonker Cedar Grove Trail is a .75 mile loop through a 274 acre stand of old growth Western Red Cedar (Thuja Plicata) and is probably the largest contiguous stand of specimens of this size. Most of them average 6-8 feet DBH.
The northern side of the loop goes through an area previously cut, and the stumps left give a good idea of the scale.
This one was probably about 10-12 feet tall:
The southern part of the loop drops down into lower ground- down into a little gorge- the topography is what saved these giants from the saw.
I found some other things of interest along the trail as well.
I walked the loop clockwise and then counter-clockwise, just to make sure I got a good look. The observant will notice tiny little adventures off the beaten path. I walked back out and down to the beach and had a little snack.
The tide had gone out a ways since I'd arrived.
It seems all the little estuaries and sloughs are full of pilings. There must have been a lot of activity down there at one time.
The full moon rose at 7:15 PM for the long drive home. Didn't really have enough daylight to take a look at the Ellsworth unit next door. Maybe next time. Watch out for rocky shallows about a hundred feet west of the dock next to the boat launch- sliced a gash in the bottom of the boat on the way out.

"I shall wear white flannel trousers, and walk upon the beach. I have heard the mermaids singing, each to each."

NightOwl
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Magellan
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PostSun Sep 22, 2013 3:34 pm 
Cool trip. up.gif

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raising3hikers
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PostSun Sep 22, 2013 4:51 pm 
i have very fond memories of going there with my family several years ago. the remaining big cedars are amazing up.gif thanks for writing this up

Eric Eames
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sams rapids
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PostMon Sep 23, 2013 4:11 pm 
Nice pictures, I always like your food shots. I've been there. We took my kayaks and spent the night at a tiny campground. There was tall grass everywhere throughout our campsite and lots of branches on the ground. It didn't seem anyone had camped there all summer and this was in September. Really hard to take pictures of those big trees. It was quite an experience to see so many old growth cedars. We were caught on the mud when the tide went out. Sat in the boats for 4 hours waiting to refloat. One step into the mud and I was up to my knee so I couldn't get out. I couldn't reach my things in the hatch behind. No book, water or snacks. Maybe I go there again.

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PostTue Sep 24, 2013 12:11 am 
very difficult to capture the immensity of those cedars with a lens. missed the ramp by a hundred yards one trip. put one foot out and the mud sucked a shoe right off. I was up to my armpit digging it out. called today and asked about water. they said they tell people to bring their own. there are little ephemeral draws here and there- one in a little ditch down off the southeast corner of the grove, one about 200 yards south of where the Smoky Hollow trail leads down to the beach. clear and moving at a fair clip, but I'd want a filter. Queets crested at 7490 last night. wonder if it'll drop down and we'll get a good window again yet? bk

"I shall wear white flannel trousers, and walk upon the beach. I have heard the mermaids singing, each to each."
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