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Tshletshy Dreamer
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PostSun Sep 16, 2012 4:48 pm 
This is a map of our hiking route. The yellow pin icons mark our campsites
This is a map of our hiking route. The yellow pin icons mark our campsites
Hi - I’ve been a lurker on NWhikers for several years. I’ve contributed photos to some of cascadetraverser’s posts but this will be the first trip report that I’ve submitted. The Denali hike grew out of a desire to do “something awesome/epic” for my 50th birthday. I asked cascadetraverser if he wanted in, but as usual,he had his own dynamite trip planned for the North Cascades (https://www.nwhikers.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8000262&highlight=). So I called my friend Rogier Gruys up in Jasper, Alberta and invited him along. "What month?" he asked. August. "No problem," he said, and he added that he owed me because I had accompanied him on his 40th birthday hike of the West Coast Trail. After considering the Brooks Range (too expensive) and Wrangell-St. Elias (too intimidating for newbies) we decided to do a hike in Denali, but we didn’t want to hike off the park road. I wanted an epic trip dammit, and in Alaska epic means FLYING. Luckily there was a route that fit the bill, a hike across Western Denali, from the Purkey Pile airstrip (no joke, that is its name) to Wonder Lake. It was supposedly to be very wild and very remote, a a point emphasized by the park’s website: This is one of the most remote and pristine portions of the park. It is difficult to reach and travel across due to the vegetation patterns in the area, large rivers and the extreme topography...The unique feature of this area, more than any other unit in the Denali Wilderness, is remoteness. One can hike through this area for weeks and see no signs of human passage. For true adventurers, who have both time and experience, getting into this part of Denali National Park is a trip of a lifetime. That got us very pumped, and after a few months of mounting preparations and excitement it was time. Rogier and his family drove from Jasper to Fairbanks, where they met my flight from Anchorage. We spent the next two days getting permits and doing our final packing.
Ready for the flight into Denali
Ready for the flight into Denali
Above the park road, Denali National Park
Above the park road, Denali National Park
Painted hills, Denali National Park
Painted hills, Denali National Park
Bare hills, Denali National Park
Bare hills, Denali National Park
Rainbow over the tundra, Denali National Park
Rainbow over the tundra, Denali National Park
Tundra ponds and lakes, Denali National Park
Tundra ponds and lakes, Denali National Park
We flew into Purkey Pile on the 17th of August and reached the Wonder Lake campground on the night of the 26th. We walked for 10 days, and according to Rogier’s GPS we covered about 150 km, but the day to day destinations didn’t seem to matter so much. We measured our progress in rivers crossed, animals sighted, and in the changing view of the Alaska Range as we moved closer to the Great One (Mount McKinley). Hiking
Scouting a crossing near the Foraker River
Scouting a crossing near the Foraker River
Rogier checks his maps Mount McKinley is on the left, Mount Foraker on the right.
Rogier checks his maps Mount McKinley is on the left, Mount Foraker on the right.
The elevation profile for the hike was nearly flat, but the walking was not easy. We spent most of our time moving across tundra of varying brushiness and solidity, and for the most part the going was SLOW.
Spongy tundra, Denali National Park
Spongy tundra, Denali National Park
At times we experienced “death by sponginess” where every step meant sinking down a half foot into moss and lichen and we were reduced to traveling at less than 1 mile per hour. Other obstacles encountered included alder and willow thickets, which in the absence of game trails could be very slow going (although never as bad as the slide alder in the North Cascades!). We also had to make our way through belts of boreal forest of differing passibility.
Boreal forest, Denali National Park
Boreal forest, Denali National Park
Spruce trees in Denali boreal forests are often surrounded by raised moss mats.
Spruce trees in Denali boreal forests are often surrounded by raised moss mats.
The easiest walking we did was on dry, lichen-rich upland tundra and along braided river channels. One positive side of our slow pace was that we had plenty of time to admire the vegetation and their early fall colors - lime-green sphagnum moss, grey lichen, orange and red dwarf birch, yellow willow, and purple leaved blueberries to name a few.
Lichen, the caribou's preferred food
Lichen, the caribou's preferred food
Willows, Denali National Park
Willows, Denali National Park
Blueberry, Denali National Park
Blueberry, Denali National Park
Autumn comes to the tundra, Denali National Park
Autumn comes to the tundra, Denali National Park
Sphagnum moss, Denali National Park
Sphagnum moss, Denali National Park
Bearberry and Dwarf Birch, Denali National Park
Bearberry and Dwarf Birch, Denali National Park
Wildlife
Bull caribou in the foothills of the Alaska Range, Denali National Park
Bull caribou in the foothills of the Alaska Range, Denali National Park
Curious caribou, Denali National Park
Curious caribou, Denali National Park
We saw fewer animals than I expected, and we had a couple of days with no significant sightings at all. However, balanced against this were some sublime, “pinch me I must be dreaming” moments. The first took place on the 2nd day. It was late in the afternoon, and we were looking for a place to camp after crossing the Swift Fork of the Kuskokwim. We arrived at the west end of a lake, and were beginning to walk around it’s southern shore, when Rogier spotted something small and black-furred moving on the eastern end. Initially we thought it was a bear cub, but then we saw that there were two, and then we saw the legs, and the way they ran and we knew that we were seeing wolf pups!
Wolf pups in the distance, Denali National Park
Wolf pups in the distance, Denali National Park
We found an elevated bank to sit and watch from. If the pups knew that we were there it didn’t bother them. They made their way around the lake towards us, stopping to investigate whatever interested them on the way. They disappeared from view for a few minutes, and then suddenly they rounded a bank no more than 80 feet away, and looked us over. One of them quickly left, but the other one sat down and stared.
Curious wolf pup, Denali National Park
Curious wolf pup, Denali National Park
The other one came back, and then native caution got the better of both of them and they ran off.
Wolf pups leaving, Denali National Park
Wolf pups leaving, Denali National Park
According to the time stamp on my photos, this encounter only took about 75 seconds, but, needless to say, it felt a LOT longer. Our bear sighting did last a LOT longer. It was the 8th day, and up to that point we had seen very few bear tracks, and no fresh scat. I was becoming reconciled to the idea that I would not see a bear on the hike. It was about 5 PM as we approached Slippery Creek. We wanted to cross it, then make our way cross-country for a couple of kilometers to find a campsite at some lakes. I was walking in front, and having just cleared the stream-bordering brush, was preparing to step down off the bank onto the river gravel. Rogier hissed “Wait! There’s something moving on the other side. It’s big.. might be a moose.” We sat down on the bank and waited. At first I couldn’t see anything, but then a flash of blonde fur, and an alarm bell went off in my head. The bear appeared a few seconds later, near the opposite river bank.
Slippery Creek grizzly, Denali National Park
Slippery Creek grizzly, Denali National Park
It reached the bank, then turned downstream. The wind was blowing towards us, and the river was loud. The bear could not smell us or hear us. We watched for over a quarter hour as it moved deliberately, stopping repeatedly to dig and feed (on roots?). It went downstream a couple of hundred meters, then decided that it wanted to come across.
Grizzly crossing Slippery Creek, Denali National Park
Grizzly crossing Slippery Creek, Denali National Park
That was worrying. We would not be able to see it because of the brush on our side. Time to go! We waited until it was out of view, then hoofed it upstream, looking backwards with bear spray at the ready. We did not see the bear again. Mountains
Near Heart Mountain, western Denali National Park
Near Heart Mountain, western Denali National Park
A hiker silhouetted against Mount Mckinley.
A hiker silhouetted against Mount Mckinley.
Mount Foraker rising 15,000 feet above the northern plains of Denali National Park
Mount Foraker rising 15,000 feet above the northern plains of Denali National Park
Our route took us directly past the two highest peaks in the Alaska Range: McKinley (20,320’) and Foraker (17,400’). We hoped that we would get a chance to see both of them, but summer is the rainiest time in Denali, and there was a real chance the peaks would be obscured for much or most of the trip. We needn’t have worried. We had four days of brilliant sunshine, enough to see them in all their impossible size and glory. Nothing can prepare a person for the scale of the Alaska Range! You see McKinley dwarfing intervening ridges and then you realize, “Uh, I’m at 2500 feet, that “ridge” is 8000 feet, and the mountain is 11,000 FEET higher than that!” Mind boggling....Rogier had once worked in Bhutan, so when he stated that the mountains were Himalayan in scale he spoke with authority. Two views in particular stand out for me. The first was on the evening of the 21st, our fifth night. The previous day had been gloomy and rainy, and we had made a late start after spending a morning drying gear. The weather had been improving throughout the day, and we made a relatively early camp in a cluster of small ponds/lakes. We had travelled far enough east that Foraker and McKinley looked nearly equal in size (= enormous). As the sun began to set the remaining clouds dispersed, the wind stilled, and the reflections of the mountains became perfect.
Mount Foraker reflection 1
Mount Foraker reflection 1
Mount Foraker reflection 2
Mount Foraker reflection 2
Rogier, Will, and Mount Foraker, Denali National Park
Rogier, Will, and Mount Foraker, Denali National Park
Mount McKinley reflection, Denali National Park
Mount McKinley reflection, Denali National Park
A late afternoon panorama from McKinley (left) to Foraker (right)
A late afternoon panorama from McKinley (left) to Foraker (right)
Our campsite on the fifth night of our hike in Denali. Mount Foraker (17,400 ft = 5304 m) is in the background.
Our campsite on the fifth night of our hike in Denali. Mount Foraker (17,400 ft = 5304 m) is in the background.
The second was on the morning of the 25th. After encountering the grizzly the previous afternoon, we had walked up the banks of Slippery Creek for about a mile, then camped on an old river channel among alders and poplars. We awakened at 1 AM to a near gale that was “concaving” the side of our tent, and it kept blowing and raining until dawn. Rogier was the first to get up, while I tarried in my bag, unwilling to face the morning. But lo and behold when I left the tent I saw this!
A view of Mount McKinley from the tent
A view of Mount McKinley from the tent
Mount McKinley and Slippery Creek, Denali National Park
Mount McKinley and Slippery Creek, Denali National Park
The Wickersham Wall, rising 11,000 feet above Pioneer Ridge
The Wickersham Wall, rising 11,000 feet above Pioneer Ridge
No words were required, just praise to the deity/fates for letting us be in that spot and that time. Rivers and Packrafting
Rogier preparing his raft to cross the Swift Fork of the Kuskokwim.
Rogier preparing his raft to cross the Swift Fork of the Kuskokwim.
The Herron River, Denali National Park
The Herron River, Denali National Park
The park service had recommended bringing packrafts for river crossings and they were right. We ended up crossing the Swift Fork of the Kuskowim, the Herron, the Foraker, and the McKinley by raft. Here's a video of the Foraker crossing:
In every case, the “crux” channel was not terribly wide, but we could always see a band of deep, high velocity water that looked like it could sweep us off our feet - when we tried the thrown cobble test, we would hear the ploik of the rock splashing in but no clunk of it hitting the bottom! The raft, paddle and paddling suits added 10 pounds to our load, and the process of unpacking, inflating, and rigging the raft took a fair bit of time, but it meant that we didn’t have to do much scouting for crossing points and we didn’t have to wait for the river to reach minimum flow. Our skills increased with each crossing, but we got truly “instructed” on our last day, when we attempted to run Muddy Creek to its confluence with the McKinley, a distance of 8.5 miles. Shallow water and downed trees in the channels stopped us after 6 miles. However, 6 miles was plenty of time for excitement! The river was fast and powerful - at one point Rogier’s GPS got us at 17 kilometers/hour, and we both got a fair dose of adrenaline as well as a sense that yes, we can do this. Aftermath
Late afternoon sun, upper Muddy Creek, Denali National Park
Late afternoon sun, upper Muddy Creek, Denali National Park
Sunset lit hills, upper Muddy Creek, Denali National Park
Sunset lit hills, upper Muddy Creek, Denali National Park
Our last day was a marathon. After stowing our packrafts we walked the remaining 2.5 miles of the Muddy, then 6 miles up the McKinley River, before reaching the McKinley Bar trail. We followed the trail and then the park road for another 4 miles before reaching Wonder Lake campground at 11:00 PM. It had rained all day, and in addition to packrafting the Muddy we also had to raft across part of the McKinley, as well as cross several side-channels on foot. Needless to say, we were very tired the next morning and were more than happy to take the 5 hour bus ride out to the park entrance.
Rogier and Will at the entrance to the Wonder Lake campground, waiting to catch the bus out to the park entrance
Rogier and Will at the entrance to the Wonder Lake campground, waiting to catch the bus out to the park entrance
Along the way we saw rutting bull moose and a very nice rainbow.
Late August in Denali. The bulls are entering rut and are getting ready to fight
Late August in Denali. The bulls are entering rut and are getting ready to fight
Rainbow near park road, Denali National Park
Rainbow near park road, Denali National Park
We were digging into pizza and beer by early afternoon.
Rogier digging into a 17 inch pizza at the Prospector ("49 beers on tap":)
Rogier digging into a 17 inch pizza at the Prospector ("49 beers on tap")
The next day Rogier drove me to Fairbanks to stay with friends (thanks Brian and Liz!), before heading back to Alberta (don't feel bad for Rogier's wife and daughters - they did their own trip while we were hiking). I flew back home on the 29th. On the flight down, I had a clear view of Mount St. Elias rising up 18,000 feet from Icy Bay, looking SMALL in comparison to the massive hulk of 19,000 foot Mount Logan behind it. I reached for my camera to take a picture but my last battery had just died. I felt like I had received a message directly from the Great White North. The message was this: Do not ask for more. You have received enough for one journey. Go now with a satisfied soul and come back when your heart is hungry again. I will. And one last note - just wanted to thank my wife Debbie for supporting me and this trip 100%. Your coming next time babe! Thanks also to Rogier - now I owe you one buddy!

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polarbear
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PostSun Sep 16, 2012 5:46 pm 
Beautiful pictures and an enjoyable read! up.gif up.gif up.gif Glad the weather worked out so well for you.

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Snowdog
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PostSun Sep 16, 2012 5:49 pm 
Whoa! Nicely done 1st TR!!! Welcome to the site, make sure there are more to come. You have some truly amazing photos here, and your narrative is an excellent read. I felt like I was there! (wishful thinking)

'we don't have time for a shortcut'
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Boot
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PostSun Sep 16, 2012 7:48 pm 
Really awesome images!!

Boot
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Magellan
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Magellan
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PostSun Sep 16, 2012 9:08 pm 
Absolutely stunning photos! up.gif up.gif up.gif How fortunate to get so many clear days on this trip. Thanks for sharing.

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furthur
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furthur
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PostMon Sep 17, 2012 6:23 am 
Ten days at the feet of glaciers. What a dream. Your brains must have had difficulty adjusting to city views and sounds after this.

"You're either on the bus or off the bus." Kesey
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mbtigger
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PostMon Sep 17, 2012 8:12 am 
Well, you certainly know how to make an entrance into the forums! I have read about a small bit about this route, and was thinking of doing this if I ever get up to Denali

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iron
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PostMon Sep 17, 2012 9:10 am 
amazing journey for your 50th! those wolf pics are great and the thought of the grizzly stumbling upon you after crossing the river had me on pins and needles. the packrafting, umm, looks interesting.

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Jim Dockery
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PostMon Sep 17, 2012 2:44 pm 
Very cool! Great adventure and pictures, glad you came out of lurking to share. I also headed up there for my 50th a few years ago to climb Denali. I fell in love with the state and have to go back.

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MtnManic
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PostMon Sep 17, 2012 5:14 pm 
Love those reflection shots! Thanks for sharing.

Backpacking: limited to one pack at a time. Cameras: limited to as many as I can carry.
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tommytownsend
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PostTue Sep 18, 2012 8:32 am 
Will, it comes as no surprise that your first post would be spectacular. Marc and I struggled for years trying to figure out how to put posts like this together, you of course did a beauty on your first try. A bit of background on Will might be interesting for the members of the comment stream: Will was schooled in backcountry travel during years of working as a research tech in Papua New Guinea. Apparently tracking down tree kangaroos is excellent training, he is a powerhouse in the backcountry. The dude can suffer with the best of em and always does so with a smile.

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cascadetraverser
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PostTue Sep 18, 2012 1:36 pm 
Great post and great trip; missed you this summer in the Pickets, but you clearly had an equally amazing trip. Especially impressed by the rafting river crossings!!! Nice job guy!

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Tshletshy Dreamer
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PostWed Sep 19, 2012 6:55 pm 
Hi all: Thanks for the warm welcome to nwhikers!

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bpfen
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PostMon Feb 03, 2014 7:46 pm 
Hi! I'd also like to backpack from Purkeypile airstrip to Wonder Lake campground through Denali units 69 and 22 this summer. Your pictures are beautiful. I have some questions about your trip planning: 1) What bush plane company/charter did you use? 2) Did they charge per person or a flat rate for the plane? 3) How much did they charge? 4) What is their plane capacity? (# of people/poundage) I assume your bush plane took you from the airstrip near the Denali visitor center (Park HQ at eastern edge of park map) to the Purkeypile airstrip. Anything you can remember is much appreciated! Thanks, Brian my most similar backpacking experience: Highline Trail - Upper Uintas, Utah - 85 miles, 4 days

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Tshletshy Dreamer
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PostSun Feb 09, 2014 8:13 pm 
Hi Brian: Sorry I was slow to reply. I'm pumped that you are thinking about doing the Purkey Pile to Wonder Lake hike this summer! Here are answers to your questions: 1) We went with Kantishna Air http://www.katair.com 2) They charged us a flat rate to fly from the Denali Park entrance to Purkey Pile 3) In 2012 the rate was $1300. The rate would have been lower if we had been willing to fly from the Kantishna Air strip 4) I believe that they can take 5 passengers, but if you have that many then luggage will be restricted to about 25 pounds/person. Our packs weighed 140-150 pounds and our body weights came in at about 350-360. Finally - there was another party that did the hike in 2012. They made it but got roughed up pretty bad trying to cross the rivers WITHOUT pack rafts. I wouldn't do the hike without a pack raft! I also wouldn't do it without a SPOT or a sat phone. We rented a sat phone in Fairbanks for a very reasonable rate from Surveyor's Exchange http://www.tse-ak.com/default.aspx. They have branches in Anchorage as well. Hope this helps and good luck!

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