Forum Index > Trip Reports > Bears Breast - 07/12-13/2014
 Reply to topic
Previous :: Next Topic
Author Message
puzzlr
Mid Fork Rocks



Joined: 13 Feb 2007
Posts: 7216 | TRs | Pics
Location: Stuck in the middle
puzzlr
Mid Fork Rocks
PostMon Jul 21, 2014 12:21 pm 
Bears Breast was the hardest Middle Fork peak I had yet to climb, and I'm very glad it's done. It really was hard! I know there's a somewhat easier route to the ridge line on the NE side but access to the base is a long bushwhack, especially this late in the year without snow. To increase our chances of good weather Don Brooks and I scheduled a couple possible weekends before the 7-days-a-week road closure started and it worked. I enjoy the varied scenery along the Dutch Miller Gap trail and on this warm day we even stopped for a refreshing dip in the pool by the bridge at Pedro Camp.
Parking with bikes at Dingford Creek
Parking with bikes at Dingford Creek
High points on Overcoat's SW ridge from Dutch Miller Gap trail
High points on Overcoat's SW ridge from Dutch Miller Gap trail
Waterfall just before reaching the big gully at MP .9
Waterfall just before reaching the big gully at MP .9
Dutch Miller Gap trail MP 1
Dutch Miller Gap trail MP 1
Log crossing at Crawford Creek, about 200 feet upstream of trail
Log crossing at Crawford Creek, about 200 feet upstream of trail
Dutch Miller Gap trail MP 3.5 camp
Dutch Miller Gap trail MP 3.5 camp
Williams Lake trail junction
Williams Lake trail junction
A surprise was waiting for us after the Williams Lake trail intersection. Over the winter a huge avalanche had roared down the slopes of Little Big Chief and made a broad turn into the upper reaches of the Middle Fork river. Trees were splintered at the snow level line many feet above the ground and the debris reached all the way down to the river crossing just past the Williams Lake trail junction. I made a note not to underestimate the avy danger at Dutch Miller Gap if I ever go there in the winter.
Avalanche debris reaching from the lower Dutch Miller Gap meadow to the Williams Lake trail junction
Avalanche debris reaching from the lower Dutch Miller Gap meadow to the Williams Lake trail junction
Avalanche swath from the lower Dutch Miller Gap meadow to the Williams Lake trail junction. Mostly melted out up higher, but lots of damage to trees along the ravine.
Avalanche swath from the lower Dutch Miller Gap meadow to the Williams Lake trail junction. Mostly melted out up higher, but lots of damage to trees along the ravine.
Approximate path of avalanche that took out a swath of trees on both sides of the creek and path up to Dutch Miller Gap
Approximate path of avalanche that took out a swath of trees on both sides of the creek and path up to Dutch Miller Gap
Dutch Miller Gap was half melted out and as beautiful as ever. We made the short side trip to the infinity tarn before continuing on up to the bench 400' higher where we planned to camp.
Bears Breast and the infinity tarn at Dutch Miller Gap
Bears Breast and the infinity tarn at Dutch Miller Gap
View of route from Dutch Miller Gap
View of route from Dutch Miller Gap
The boot trail to the tarn bench goes to the right of this wall
The boot trail to the tarn bench goes to the right of this wall
Tarn outflow
Tarn outflow
Camp between two tarns on a bench above Dutch Miller Gap
Camp between two tarns on a bench above Dutch Miller Gap
Moon rising
Moon rising
The next morning we were hiking by 6am to maximize shade while climbing the southwest face. We both wore trail runner type shoes for the whole trip and luckily the night was warm enough so that the short sections of snow we had to cross weren't a problem (we had axes). It took about an hour to get to the base of the wall, then two more to climb to the ridge top including one short roped pitch.
Little Big Chief sunrise
Little Big Chief sunrise
Crossing the broad ravine to reach the southwest face
Crossing the broad ravine to reach the southwest face
Scrambling up benches at the base of the wall
Scrambling up benches at the base of the wall
Moderate scrambling up the right side of the gully below a big wall
Moderate scrambling up the right side of the gully below a big wall
A dead end when one ravine topped out too steep
A dead end when one ravine topped out too steep
The steepest section of the lower gully. We scrambled up all of this except for one short roped pitch.
The steepest section of the lower gully. We scrambled up all of this except for one short roped pitch.
Old piton with webbing at the base of a cliff. This is the only section where we used a rope on the way up to the ridge line.
Old piton with webbing at the base of a cliff. This is the only section where we used a rope on the way up to the ridge line.
Above the steep lower gully the angle eased and it was mostly mixed heather and rock scrambling to the top of the ridge
Above the steep lower gully the angle eased and it was mostly mixed heather and rock scrambling to the top of the ridge
Between the 1st and 2nd snow fields. We took a short break just above here.
Between the 1st and 2nd snow fields. We took a short break just above here.
Easy terrain approaching the ridge
Easy terrain approaching the ridge
Don just about to reach the ridge line
Don just about to reach the ridge line
Panorama southwest from ridge crest
Panorama southwest from ridge crest
From the col it's a very short walk over to the base of the summit block and we got out all the gear for the final part of the climb. From a nearby vantage point on the ridge the lower part of the wall looks impossibly steep, but it's an illusion and combined with solid rock and decent holds it's not that bad. Of course that's easy for me to say because I was following -- Don did all the leading and placements can be hard to find on this rock. We wasted some time by going too high before traversing left. There's a small bush at the spot to do that, but visually it looks like the narrow ledge leads nowhere. In fact it continues around without any difficulties. Getting into and through the chimney was awkward but there are abundant holds. The final 50' to the top beyond the roped section is loose class 2/3 but not exposed.
Don scoping out the summit block. West summit ridge on left.
Don scoping out the summit block. West summit ridge on left.
Bears Breast
Bears Breast
Classic climbing shot on lower summit block
Classic climbing shot on lower summit block
First crack to get up to the slabs below the chimney
First crack to get up to the slabs below the chimney
Don climbs the chimney
Don climbs the chimney
Don climbs the chimney
Don climbs the chimney
Don climbs the chimney
Don climbs the chimney
Inside the chimney
Inside the chimney
Middle Fork Valley from Bears Breast summit. Big Snow, Wild Goat, and Iron Cap peaks on the right (north) side of the valley.
5 labels
Middle Fork Valley from Bears Breast summit. Big Snow, Wild Goat, and Iron Cap peaks on the right (north) side of the valley.
Dutch Miller Gap from Bears Breast summit
Dutch Miller Gap from Bears Breast summit
Don started cleaning years of accumulated webbing from the first rap station while I got my summit photos and perused the register. It was placed by the Torok party in 2003 but includes some scraps dating back to 1983. We were only the 10th party in the last 10 years, and only the 3rd since the Dingford gate was installed in June, 2007.
Summit register is in good shape
Summit register is in good shape
Bears Breast
Bears Breast
Bears Breast
Bears Breast
Bears Breast register on July 13, 2014, earliest legible entry 9/24/1983 
Russ Kroeker (Koala) 
Dick (Kangaroo) Kegel Illegible writing below
Bears Breast register on July 13, 2014, earliest legible entry 9/24/1983 Russ Kroeker (Koala) Dick (Kangaroo) Kegel Illegible writing below
Don on the summit with register
Don on the summit with register
On the summit
On the summit
We did 3 short raps down the summit block to reduce the chances of a stuck rope, then started the long scramble down the face. Going down was harder than coming up with more chances to slip on loose rocks. When we reached the steep lower section we did 3 successive raps instead of what would be risky down climbing. Below that we tried to find our route up without success even though we had left a few cairns (only 3). After some unpleasant brush/branch wading through a thick stand of trees we set up one final rappel (#7) down a wet gully to the benches where we knew we had come up.
Down climbing the short scramble from the summit to the first rap
Down climbing the short scramble from the summit to the first rap
Rap 1, to top of chimney. We chose to do 3 shorter raps on the summit block to lower the chance of a stuck rope in the chimney.
Rap 1, to top of chimney. We chose to do 3 shorter raps on the summit block to lower the chance of a stuck rope in the chimney.
cleaning rap tat
cleaning rap tat
Walking the ridge back to the descent line
Walking the ridge back to the descent line
Down the mixed rock and heather gully
Down the mixed rock and heather gully
Down climbing the mixed rock and heather gully
Down climbing the mixed rock and heather gully
Rap 4 down the steep lower gully. Anchor is a small but fat and solid cedar
Rap 4 down the steep lower gully. Anchor is a small but fat and solid cedar
rap 6 down to benches below the steep part of the gully
rap 6 down to benches below the steep part of the gully
rap 7, the last one, down a wet gully to the benches just above the snow fields
rap 7, the last one, down a wet gully to the benches just above the snow fields
Putting the rope away. It's all scrambling and trails from here.
Putting the rope away. It's all scrambling and trails from here.
It felt good to have the "hard" part behind us, but the long part was still ahead. From above we spotted an easier way back to camp and passed a beautiful tarn along the way. If not for the need to keep going we might have taken a dip. This bench above Dutch Miller Gap is a beautiful place with waterfalls streaming down all around. It was still half under snow and is probably only clear of snow in August to October each year.
Beautiful deep pool we passed on our way back to camp
Beautiful deep pool we passed on our way back to camp
Fairyland waterfalls
Fairyland waterfalls
Here's a cleaned up GPS track superimposed on a Google Earth image.
Route summary
Route summary
Pile of old webbing removed from rappel anchors
Pile of old webbing removed from rappel anchors
The walk/ride out was very long, ending with headlamps on. I learned that it's not good to do such a long day wearing only trail runners. While not blistered, the balls of my feet were sore for a week. Thanks to Don for once again being a great climbing partner, always seeing every glitch as another opportunity for adventure!

Back to top Reply to topic Reply with quote Send private message
silence
Member
Member


Joined: 25 Apr 2005
Posts: 4420 | TRs | Pics
silence
Member
PostMon Jul 21, 2014 12:26 pm 
Wonderful! Congrats on bagging the "peak" too!

PHOTOS FILMS Keep a good head and always carry a light bulb. – Bob Dylan
Back to top Reply to topic Reply with quote Send private message
RichP
Member
Member


Joined: 13 Jul 2006
Posts: 5628 | TRs | Pics
Location: here
RichP
Member
PostMon Jul 21, 2014 12:31 pm 
Impressive work, gents. Puzzlr, I can see why you are glad to get that monkey off your back.

Back to top Reply to topic Reply with quote Send private message
cartman
Member
Member


Joined: 20 Feb 2007
Posts: 2800 | TRs | Pics
Location: Fremont
cartman
Member
PostMon Jul 21, 2014 12:39 pm 
Well done. Monty, the light at the end of that Mid Fork tunnel is now in sight...

Back to top Reply to topic Reply with quote Send private message
contour5
Member
Member


Joined: 16 Jul 2003
Posts: 2962 | TRs | Pics
contour5
Member
PostMon Jul 21, 2014 1:54 pm 
Very nicely documented. Those summit shots are spectacular.

Back to top Reply to topic Reply with quote Send private message
iron
Member
Member


Joined: 10 Aug 2008
Posts: 6391 | TRs | Pics
Location: southeast kootenays
iron
Member
PostMon Jul 21, 2014 2:38 pm 
good stuff fellas! great documentation monty and thanks for cleaning the old tat.

Back to top Reply to topic Reply with quote Send private message
Roald
Member
Member


Joined: 06 Aug 2007
Posts: 367 | TRs | Pics
Location: Seattle
Roald
Member
PostMon Jul 21, 2014 3:29 pm 
What a great report, and a tough-looking peak. Pretty area, too.

Back to top Reply to topic Reply with quote Send private message
Gregor
Gregor



Joined: 15 May 2007
Posts: 117 | TRs | Pics
Gregor
Gregor
PostMon Jul 21, 2014 3:50 pm 
Great report! looks like a fantastic climb.

Back to top Reply to topic Reply with quote Send private message
Kindergarten Kop
Member
Member


Joined: 26 Jun 2014
Posts: 8 | TRs | Pics
Kindergarten Kop
Member
PostMon Jul 21, 2014 4:45 pm 
Very cool report and pictures! Thanks for sharing!

Back to top Reply to topic Reply with quote Send private message
raising3hikers
Member
Member


Joined: 21 Sep 2007
Posts: 2343 | TRs | Pics
Location: Edmonds, Wa
raising3hikers
Member
PostMon Jul 21, 2014 4:56 pm 
great job! glad you guys got it up.gif thanks for the detailed report

Eric Eames
Back to top Reply to topic Reply with quote Send private message
cascadeclimber
Member
Member


Joined: 04 Sep 2006
Posts: 1427 | TRs | Pics
cascadeclimber
Member
PostMon Jul 21, 2014 6:14 pm 
Well done. Great write-up, and THANK YOU for cleaning up the anchors. Looks like a great fun adventure climb...might have to go in after that one myself. Kind of a bummer to have to bike up that road, though. And I know it's a long walk out from Williams to the old trailhead.

If not now, when?
Back to top Reply to topic Reply with quote Send private message
wildernessed
viewbagger



Joined: 31 Oct 2004
Posts: 9275 | TRs | Pics
Location: Wenatchee
wildernessed
viewbagger
PostMon Jul 21, 2014 7:04 pm 
up.gif Awesome !

Living in the Anthropocene
Back to top Reply to topic Reply with quote Send private message
gb
Member
Member


Joined: 01 Jul 2010
Posts: 6303 | TRs | Pics
gb
Member
PostMon Jul 21, 2014 7:07 pm 
So what was the rating. The photos make it look like 5.6-5.7.

Back to top Reply to topic Reply with quote Send private message
Bernardo
Member
Member


Joined: 08 Feb 2010
Posts: 2174 | TRs | Pics
Location: out and about in the world
Bernardo
Member
PostMon Jul 21, 2014 7:09 pm 
Thanks for a great report and congrats on a great outing.

Back to top Reply to topic Reply with quote Send private message
Malachai Constant
Member
Member


Joined: 13 Jan 2002
Posts: 16088 | TRs | Pics
Location: Back Again Like A Bad Penny
Malachai Constant
Member
PostMon Jul 21, 2014 7:44 pm 
Congrats, that was of the Becky Brothers first peaks and considered a great accomplishment back in the day up.gif hockeygrin.gif

"You do not laugh when you look at the mountains, or when you look at the sea." Lafcadio Hearn
Back to top Reply to topic Reply with quote Send private message
   All times are GMT - 8 Hours
 Reply to topic
Forum Index > Trip Reports > Bears Breast - 07/12-13/2014
  Happy Birthday noahk!
Jump to:   
Search this topic:

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum