Forum Index > Trip Reports > Three Fools, Powder, Holman 9/4-7/14
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cartman
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PostWed Sep 24, 2014 7:48 pm 
I did not know I was going to do this trip. Normally I would wait until late Sept or early October to go into the Pasaytens. But when Wayne wanted a partner to go north, though I didn't want to do the Lago group he was aiming for, I saw a chance to go back into an area I really enjoyed my first time there. I like to do at least one solo multinight trip per year and hadn't had a chance to do one yet this summer, so this was an opportunity I couldn't pass up. Day 1: PCT to Holman Spring While Wayne headed east, I marched north from Slate Pass on the PCT like I did three years ago on another solo trip, but this time with the goal of going even farther. The weather was spectacular the entire trip as it has been so often this brilliant summer.
Slate Pk Lookout
Slate Pk Lookout
The PCT from Slate Pass has plenty of what I enjoy so much about the Pasayten Wilderness: open vistas, easy terrain, numerous peaks, and acres of green meadows.
Looking back
Looking back
PCT slopes
PCT slopes
Snowfield to Triumph
Snowfield to Triumph
Snowfield
Snowfield
Azurite, Ballard
Azurite, Ballard
First view of Three Fools
First view of Three Fools
Continuing on
Continuing on
To the first pass
To the first pass
Beautiful day
Beautiful day
Barron
Barron
Tamarack
Tamarack
Windy Pass
Windy Pass
Reaching Windy Pass in good time, I rounded Tamarack and continued over Foggy Pass into its larch-filled northern basin.
Foggy Pass
Foggy Pass
Pasayten Peak
Pasayten Peak
Below Foggy Pass
Below Foggy Pass
Once past the basin the terrain to the north is surprisingly lacking in larches--but not in views!
Jim and Devils Backbone
Jim and Devils Backbone
West Fork Pasayten River Valley
West Fork Pasayten River Valley
Jim and Devils Backbone
Jim and Devils Backbone
After taking a break at Shaw Creek for water, the trail takes a 1200' loss down to Holman Pass, which has a nice campsite, but is dry.
Holman Pass
Holman Pass
Signs
Signs
Spent a little time here trying to photograph a woodpecker high on a tree, but couldn't quite get a shot. It was a bit smaller than a pileated with mostly light colored plumage. Maybe a Northern Flicker. Regaining 1000' back up to the opposite ridge, the trail then opens up again in great meadows to the modest spring and great camping nearby. Note: the spring isn't the brackish seep in front of the first campsite, but is ~200' west on the side trail.
Below Holman, nearing camp
Below Holman, nearing camp
Holman south slopes
Holman south slopes
Moonrise
Moonrise
There are at least five excellent tent sites here tucked into the groves of pines. Two campers were occupying one when I rolled in; by the time the sun set, there were ten of us spending the night. And one very persistent deer.
Deer
Deer
Deer
Deer
Powder
Powder
Most of my neighbors were thru-hikers or section hikers and were continuing north to the border. Even with multiple parties it was a peaceful night. 15.5 miles in under 7 hours. All that hiking is paying off! Day 2: Three Fools, Powder With a big day ahead, I got an early start to go even farther north. I'd had Three Fools on my radar ever since seeing this report, and wanted to do at least one other peak this day. Weather was clear but cool on the PCT up to Rock Pass.
Starting up the PCT to Rock Pass
Starting up the PCT to Rock Pass
Powder
Powder
Powder, Woody Pass, Three Fools
Powder, Woody Pass, Three Fools
Three Fools
Three Fools
Ridge run to Soda
Ridge run to Soda
The map shows an old pack trail that leads directly from Rock Pass to Woody Pass, but it's no longer an option due to multiple rock slides obliterating the trail. So I meandered downhill on the PCT then up to Woody Pass.
Woody Pass
Woody Pass
East side of Woody Pass
East side of Woody Pass
West side of Woody Pass
West side of Woody Pass
North Face of Powder
North Face of Powder
About a half mile past Woody Pass I started up Three Fools. The western side is a series of expansive open slopes, wonderful rambling up grass and occasional dirt ramps, even a couple of snow patches to supplement the water. There's room to wander anywhere, though the summit is at the far northern end.
Starting up Three Fools
Starting up Three Fools
West slope of Three Fools
West slope of Three Fools
Expansive
Expansive
Turning more directly uphill below the saddle with the summit on the left, the last 500' is easy loose rock to the summit of Three Fools, 7920'.
Rock slope
Rock slope
Up to the summit
Up to the summit
Near the top
Near the top
Three Fools register
Three Fools register
Three Fools is the most prominent peak on or near the PCT north of Slate Pass all the way to the border, so makes a prime viewpoint for the entire region.
Looking out to Powder and Shull
Looking out to Powder and Shull
Powder and Shull north ridges
Powder and Shull north ridges
Coney Creek meadows
Coney Creek meadows
Looking out to Soda and Smoky
Looking out to Soda and Smoky
Castle
Castle
Joker
Joker
North Winthrop, Winthrop
North Winthrop, Winthrop
Dropping back down the rocks, I stayed higher to extend the wandering and enjoy the scenery before regaining the PCT.
Wandering down
Wandering down
PCT return to Woody Pass
PCT return to Woody Pass
As I hiked down from Woody Pass, I spotted a famous resident:
Alvin!!!
Alvin!!!
He kept checking me out, while I kept photographing the little ham.
Which of...
Which of...
...my profiles...
...my profiles...
...is best?
...is best?
All of them
All of them
More views on the way back up to Rock Pass:
Holman
Holman
Meadows above Chuchuwanteen Creek
Meadows above Chuchuwanteen Creek
At Rock Pass, I dropped slightly and began the traverse over to Powder's South Ridge. Minor brush led to an open choss slope, which I crossed to the meadows on the other side. Continuing up the meadows on a good goat path,
East meadows of Powder
East meadows of Powder
I gained the ridge above to the right to access Powder's southern side.
Powder South Ridge
Powder South Ridge
On the ridge the green gully ramp is immediately obvious.
Green gully highway
Green gully highway
Above the ramp, which is steeper than it looks, the rest of the route becomes apparent. Similar to Three Fools, there are multiple options for wandering up to the summit of Powder, 7714'.
Crossing over to Powder's summit
Crossing over to Powder's summit
Near the summit of Powder
Near the summit of Powder
What bird is this?
What bird is this?
Powder summit register
Powder summit register
And a different perspective of the nearby peaks:
Three Fools
Three Fools
Coney, Chuchuwanteen, Soda
Coney, Chuchuwanteen, Soda
Holman
Holman
Shull
Shull
Crazy trail
Crazy trail
The easy slopes made for a relaxing trip down,
Starting back down
Starting back down
Great slopes
Great slopes
to the late afternoon shadows beginning to fill the rock basin. On the return I found the goat path crossing the rocks and was able to follow it through the light brush most of the way to Rock Pass. It starts 20-30' below the pass and is faint to start, but fairly obvious the rest of the way. Pleased with a full day in fun terrain but with sore feet, I decided to break up the return back to Slate Pass into two days. Day 3: Holman and camp at Devils Backbone Ridge Holman rises above the plateau where I'd camped the past two nights. It's the nearest peak to camp but requires more routefinding and a bit more demanding terrain. It initially starts as easy meadows which merge into semi-wooded slopes towards the first subsummit.
Starting up Holman
Starting up Holman
First subsummit
First subsummit
First subsummit
First subsummit
Around the east side
Around the east side
I skirted this to the east then walked up to the top to get a better look at the route. The next point on the ridge is a pinnacle with an unclimbable south face, so must be bypassed on the east on moderate choss.
Traversing
Traversing
The Yellow Cliffs
The Yellow Cliffs
I chose to stay near the cliff walls on a faint track past the pinnacle and then back up to the ridge at the second subsummit. The ridge from here leads to the base of the true summit.
Looking back at the second subsummit
Looking back at the second subsummit
Holman true summit
Holman true summit
Scrambling through big boulders at the base, a convenient ramp appeared leading just below the summit of Holman, 7550'.
Summit ledge
Summit ledge
Holman summit
Holman summit
Holman benchmark
Holman benchmark
Holman summit register
Holman summit register
And yet another interesting perspective of the regional peaks:
Three Fools to Smoky
Three Fools to Smoky
Three Fools
Three Fools
Coney and Chuchuwanteen
Coney and Chuchuwanteen
Soda and Smoky
Soda and Smoky
Shull
Shull
Powder
Powder
Joker
Joker
Rock Pass
Rock Pass
After a good long break, I began the scramble back along the ridge. If it wasn't for the south wall of the pinnacle, the entire ridge from the base of the true summit could be run to the first subsummit at no more than class 3.
Ridge to second subsummit
Ridge to second subsummit
Since that obstruction is impassable on the ridgeline, I decided just for kicks to change things up and drop directly down from the true summit and beginning the traverse lower (loose, not recommended) past the second subsummit. Then I gained the top of the ridge from the second subsummit to the pinnacle (a bit brushier) and dropped from the saddle just before the pinnacle and again traversed lower past the first subsummit. Then down the meadow slopes back to camp.
Back down to camp
Back down to camp
Packed up camp and began the long down and up ramble to the north side of Devils Backbone.
Leaving camp
Leaving camp
On the NE side of the peak after coming up from Shaw Creek, where I loaded up on water, is a small campsite just off the trail. But this isn't the good campsite. From here is a side trail running down the spur ridge.
Side ridge to Devils Backbone camp
Side ridge to Devils Backbone camp
About a tenth of a mile along the ridge a good camp in the trees is reached. Just past that is an outstanding campsite with excellent views.
Devils Backbone camp
Devils Backbone camp
Powder and Holman in the distance
Powder and Holman in the distance
Pasayten Peak
Pasayten Peak
Moonrise over Pasayten
Moonrise over Pasayten
Since it was only 4:30 I had plenty of time to chill and read before setting up camp and exploring the ridge. It continues a ways past camp and even has a few larches scattered around, and provides lots of opportunites for photography as the sun dropped lower.
Encroaching shadows
Encroaching shadows
Moonrise
Moonrise
Moon over Pasayten
Moon over Pasayten
Alpenglow on Buckskin Ridge
Alpenglow on Buckskin Ridge
Alpenglow over Pasayten
Alpenglow over Pasayten
Pasayten at dusk
Pasayten at dusk
Ridge at sunset
Ridge at sunset
Sundown at Slate Peak lookout
Sundown at Slate Peak lookout
The breeze calmed as the sun set, and I had a solitary and peaceful refuge for another fine evening in the Pasaytens. Day 4: Devils Backbone to Slate Peak How many stellar days can we have in one summer? The morning brought another beautiful blue sky day as I began the traverse along the PCT around Devils Backbone,
Devils Backbone
Devils Backbone
then around Jim Peak, drinking in the views all the way.
North Face of Tamarack
North Face of Tamarack
Jim Peak
Jim Peak
Devils Backbone
Devils Backbone
Shull
Shull
Daemon and Silhouette
Daemon and Silhouette
Jim and Devils Backbone
Jim and Devils Backbone
I kept a close watch on the concentrations of larches as I began the gain up to Foggy Pass.
Larches below Foggy Pass
Larches below Foggy Pass
Upper Foggy meadows
Upper Foggy meadows
West Fork Pasayten River valley
West Fork Pasayten River valley
Larches
Larches
Over to Foggy Pass
Over to Foggy Pass
More larches at the pass:
Foggy Pass
Foggy Pass
Watering up in the basin on the NE side of Tamarack I began to run into more hikers again, then on to the emerald fields at Windy Pass.
Traversing around Tamarack
Traversing around Tamarack
Buffalo and Slate
Buffalo and Slate
Down to Windy Pass
Down to Windy Pass
Windy Pass
Windy Pass
On the way back I had time to admire the rolling, open hills near Tamarack and the former site of Barron,
Tamarack
Tamarack
Tamarack and yurt
Tamarack and yurt
Yurt
Yurt
as the trail wound back towards Slate.
The wide open PCT
The wide open PCT
Winding back
Winding back
Meadows
Meadows
Tamarack
Tamarack
Wanting to visit the Slate Peak Lookout but not wanting to walk the road, I scrambled directly up tedious scree to the top.
Slate Peak
Slate Peak
The lookout is closed as too dangerous to climb and is deteriorating as weather and time take their toll,
Lookout
Lookout
Picking over the bones
Picking over the bones
but still has impressive views all around,
Shull, Powder, Three Fools
Shull, Powder, Three Fools
Tamarack
Tamarack
Ridge to Pasayten
Ridge to Pasayten
Osceola, Carru, Lago
Osceola, Carru, Lago
Devils and Robinson
Devils and Robinson
Haystack
Haystack
out to four days of great memories in the distance.
The road traveled
The road traveled
Did the entire trip in sneakers. Next time I'll bring ones a bit less worn. Notes on water--there are only a few good water sources from Slate Pass to Three Fools: Two good streams in the NE basin of Tamarack. Nice campsite on the east side of the trail. Shaw Creek. Good brook on the south side of Holman Pass at 5400'. Goat Creek. Holman Spring. Permanent snow patch at Woody Pass, but no running water. That's all, aside from a couple of seeps where water might be available with patience, such as on the N side of Foggy Pass, the S side of Devils Backbone, or a couple of hundred feet below Woody Pass. Plenty of camping along the way, but most are dry. According to one thru hiker, no water from Woody Pass until reaching Hopkins Lake. Thanks Wayne for the good company and the ride--it was great to meet you and to get out into this area again. 47 miles, 12,500' gain Eric J. Johnson

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Kim Brown
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PostWed Sep 24, 2014 8:14 pm 
wow! Cute little chippie; nice poses. I think the "what bird is this" is a canada jay (camp robber).

"..living on the east side of the Sierra world be ideal - except for harsher winters and the chance of apocalyptic fires burning the whole area." Bosterson, NWHiker's marketing expert
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RichP
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PostWed Sep 24, 2014 9:33 pm 
Awesome ramble through some of my favorite country. up.gif

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olderthanIusedtobe
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PostWed Sep 24, 2014 9:38 pm 
Alvin is a cutie, but that's no chipmunk. It's a golden mantled ground squirrel.

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Ski
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PostWed Sep 24, 2014 9:51 pm 
I'd say Camp Robber too, but I think it's a "Gray Jay". Perisoreus canadensis - "...formerly called "Canada Jay" and popularly known as the "Whiskey Jack" or "Camp Robber". (Audubon) never heard it called a "Whiskey Jack". learn something every day. Eric, from the stuff from you and Dan and Will it looks like I need to go over and take a look for myself. very nice. thank you. up.gif

"I shall wear white flannel trousers, and walk upon the beach. I have heard the mermaids singing, each to each."
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D. Inscho
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D. Inscho
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PostThu Sep 25, 2014 6:32 am 
A fine scenic tour in gorgeous weather. Thanks for the detailed journey.

http://david-inscho.smugmug.com/ The key to a successful trip is to do the planning during work hours. -- John Muir “My most memorable hikes can be classified as 'Shortcuts that Backfired'.” --Ed Abbey
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Jetlag
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PostThu Sep 25, 2014 2:25 pm 
Terrific trip report, key details and photos! The Pasayten slopes look much greener in September than I would have expected. It's neat to see that you were able to summit Powder, Three Fools and Holman only a couple months after you pointed them out from the ridges north of Jack. Kudos! Four days solo! It's been a couple years since I did that myself - a VERY different experience than going off on a jaunt with partners! That yurt is used by a heli-ski company? Are there other such structures in the Pasayten?

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