[marydave]

Now that we're entering slack time for trip reports, I reckon it's time to add an exotic one. It looks as if this is the first nwhikers.net trip report about a Myanmar (substitute Burma if you prefer) destination. Inle Lake is the most popular trekking destination in Myanmar; thousands of trekkers do some version of the route each year, which takes 3 days from Kalaw, or 2 days if you are bussed to a starting point nearer the lake. It was a far cry from hiking in the Cascades, but it was a memorable trip we're happy to have experienced. It was longer than we expected: I estimate we walked between 40 and 50 miles, with numerous ups and downs and a wide variety of conditions, from frosty mornings to hot sunny afternoons. We did the trek as part of a five week trip to southeast Asia last December/January, the main purpose of which was to visit and travel with friends who live in Yangon (formerly Rangoon). A travel agent based in Yangon, recommended by our friends, set up the trek, including hiring the guide and arranging transportation from Heho airport to the starting point, then longboat transportation from the end of the trek in Indein village to a resort hotel toward the north end of the lake. We took an early morning flight from Bagan to Heho and were met by a driver who took us to the Dream Villa Hotel in Kalaw, where we met our guide, Ouzo ("like the Greek drink" he said). He was of the Karen tribe, one of the many ethnic groups in Myanmar, and who also extend into Thailand, and Ouzo means "old man" in this case. He said he's 60 years old and has been guiding trekkers during the high seasons (December - February) for 15 years, farming the rest of the year. We had brought extra bags so we could divide our luggage into what we would carry on our backs for the trip and what would be sent separately to the hotel where would stay after the trek. We did the final triage, donned our packs and followed Ouzo through the streets of Kalaw. Ouzo carried just a shoulder bag, traditionally Karen, we understand.

After a couple of miles we entered pine forests, then walked along a road Ouzo said was maintained to reach a gold mine managed by Chinese interests.

Elephant Mountain, in the distance, is in the center of a nature preserve -- the only we saw anywhere in Myanmar.

Our lunch stop was a view point which is a frequent day trek destination from Kalaw. One of the many Nepali families in the area, originally brought in by the British, run the restaurant. Mary was recovering from a bout of intestinal distress, and the fresh chapatis and mild vegetable curry were helpful (I asked for the dish of chili paste to kick things up a notch).

This is the view.

We continued along a road past tea and orange plantations to a village where, at this time of year, they were making brooms to sell at the market in Kalaw.

Gilded zedis (Buddhist shrines) are ubiquitous in Burma (Myanmar)

We took a path through woods to another road to another village, one of a series that we hoped were our destination for the night, but weren't.

Rice paddies were frequent though fallow, as this is the dry, winter, season.

Motor vehicles were rare, beasts of burden more common. It really felt like a different time -- except for the smart phones.

And then we encountered the train tracks two villages later, and walked along them for a while.

Around 6pm, we arrived at our destination, a village whose name I never learned and of a tribe I'm unsure of -- probably Nathe, though. We stayed in a private home, arranged for by our guide. In the past trekkers slept in monasteries, but there are now too many for the monks to accommodate. Our guide hired a cook who cooked amazing multi-course meals, served in the living room where we also slept. It was one of two rooms upstairs in the home; the entire family slept in the other room. We slept on and under blankets on the floor. On the wise advice from our friends who had done the trek, we brought our 8 ounce NeoAir mattresses and sleeping bag liners, something we'd definitely do again.

Family pictures decorated one wall of the room; there was also a certificate - in English - indicating the man of the house had completed a half marathon in Kalaw.

Exhausted from rising in the wee hours and trekking all day, we went to bed promptly after dinner. *** There was frost in places the next morning. We had fresh made puris for breakfast with fruit, and all-in-one Nescafe with milk and sugar, then were on the trail around 8am.

We ascended to a pass with a 4-way junction, descended to more fields with views of a distant monastery atop a hill.

Later, we crossed a paved road where the 2-day trekkers begin, crossing fields of wheat, peppers, cabbage, and other produce.

The bodhi (banyan) trees gave welcome shade.

It was harvest time for hot peppers, and they were drying in the sun everywhere.

One village had several basket makers.

We stopped for lunch and discovered that the rest of our luggage was tied on the back of the motorbike driven by our cook. This was great news, as we were able to retrieve UV-resistant umbrellas we had bought in Bangkok to ward off the tropical sun but had foregone for the trip to reduce weight -- a decision we regretted as the backs of our hands burned through the sunblock, possibly thanks to the doxycycline we were taking as an anti-malarial. We also put our sleeping things into the bags, knowing we could retrieve them that evening.

On we went, through fields, bamboo, even some eroded badlands. Toward afternoon we followed a limestone ridge at whose base we saw cattle, tended by Pa'O women.

An hour later, we ascended through a notch in the ridge to Pattu Pauk, where we would spend the night. Here we had the additional luxury of a table with chairs outdoors, where we lounged and later dined.

The manually flushed facilities were efficient.

Another culinary tour-de-force from chicken sausage to kohlrabi.

After dinner we walked around town.

*** Another frosty morning, a walk through fields past the monastery where trekkers used to stay, then up toward another pass.

This crew was working on a trekker's lodge, we were told. The red headscarves are a distinguishing item of the Pa'O tribe.

We started seeing other trekkers, and stopped at a store along the way.

Then Ouzo took us onto side trails away from the crowds.

Another welcome bodhi tree.

The landscape starting looking like Arizona

We at last got a glimpse of the lake, but we still had an hour or two to go.

At long last, we reached Indein village, walked past the many ruined zedis which made it famous (at this point, Mary had barn door syndrome big time and didn't even notice them -- I snapped a few photos in passing, as well as a shot of this school)

Then it was lunch and the boat ride down a canal to the lake and to the welcoming sheets of our hotel bed!

Inle Lake is known for these fisherman who work the paddle with their leg, freeing their hands for the fishing net.

It had a great shower and bathtub, too!

[ree]

Thanks for the trip report from an exotic locale. The terrain reminds me a lot of Central California... though Burma seems like it would be a lot more humid. What made you choose Myanmar? Did you combine it with trips to other countries? What's the deal with the malaria pills? It makes your sunscreen not work? I wonder if intestinal distress can be avoided? Seems likely not. Did you visit the capitol of Myanmar? Isn't that the place with the modern, yet relatively unused infrastructure? Any close encounters with snakes? Funny that even in the middle of nowhere, you get the cellphones...

[RichP]

Very interesting trip. Thanks for posting. From the looks of you pictures, this is a popular trek though I've never heard of it.

[marydave]

[ree]

Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions. I've been wanting to do Thailand and Vietnam for a while. I'd love to squeeze in Cambodia and Angor Wat as well. Myanmar must have been super cheap, I'm guessing. I've heard Vietnam is super inexpensive. But I guess it's like anywhere... you stay at the big hotel chains and the price goes up. Hard to know how long to spend at each place. Seems like there's lots to see. Any other side effects to malaria pills? Is there some sort of supplement you can take, like grapefruit seed extract? This is the bummer thing you have to do in SE Asia I guess... malaria pills.

[marydave]

[Ski]

I know I've seen those power poles in a painting somewhere, but I can't place it. Great stuff.

[Hutch]

Awesome. My fiance and I were there last February or so for about a month. One of my favorite countries I've ever visited - welcoming people, few tourists and an amazing time in the country's history. We attended an Aung San Suu Kyi political rally, which was unforgettable. We also did a three-day trek in the Hsipaw area that was amazing - very atmospheric little hill villages that hadn't been spoiled by the trekking industry yet. Thanks for the report!

[mjl]

Thanks for posting. We were in Myanmar last December-January--did a short trek around Kalau & it was lovely & the people were very friendly. One older man wanted his picture taken with us because he & two of our group had beards. Then he disappeared, came back with oranges for everyone. Inle lake & Bagan were scenic standouts, but meeting people who hadn't seen many Westerners was a big treat. My kids likde the trip so much they hope to 'move there someday."

[contour5]

Cool report... takes me back to the wild days... Don't miss the lobster thermidor at the Strand, in Yangon/Rangoon. A bit more pricey than back when I visited, but it remains one of the most memorable meals of my entire life... A long boat ride on the Irrawaddy is highly recommended. Much of the country can be traveled by riverboat... I've been meaning to get back there for a long time, to visit the Burmese Himalaya. Mayanmar's mountainous north is the wildest and most remote section of the entire range...