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Mega-Will
country bumpkin



Joined: 22 Dec 2006
Posts: 655 | TRs | Pics
Location: Olympic Peninsula
Mega-Will
country bumpkin
PostFri Jan 02, 2015 3:09 am 
Kenai Peninsula, Chugach National Forest
Northern Kenai Peninsula
Northern Kenai Peninsula
Download full resolution map here:
Northern Kenai Peninsula
Northern Kenai Peninsula
Homer
Homer
Portage Valley between Girdwood and Whittier
Portage Valley between Girdwood and Whittier
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Portage Lake (7)
Portage Lake (7)
Portage Lake (6)
Portage Lake (6)
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Portage Lake (5)
Portage Lake (4)
Portage Lake (4)
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Portage Lake (3)
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Portage Lake (2)
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Portage Lake (8)
Portage Lake (8)
Portage Lake (9)
Portage Lake (9)
Portage Lake (10)
Portage Lake (10)
Portage Lake (11)
Portage Lake (11)
Portage Lake (12)
Portage Lake (12)
Portage Lake (13)
Portage Lake (13)
Portage Lake near Whittier
Portage Lake near Whittier
Portage Lake, near Whittier (2)
Portage Lake, near Whittier (2)
Portage Lake, near Whittier
Portage Lake, near Whittier
Portage Lake, Whittier
Portage Lake, Whittier
Portage Lake
Portage Lake
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Seward
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Alaska Range, Richardson Highway (10)
Alaska Range, Richardson Highway (10)
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Seward (2)
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Homer
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Homer Spit from Skyline Drive
Homer Spit from Skyline Drive
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Homer (2)
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Mega-Will
country bumpkin



Joined: 22 Dec 2006
Posts: 655 | TRs | Pics
Location: Olympic Peninsula
Mega-Will
country bumpkin
PostFri Jan 02, 2015 3:10 am 
Harding Icefield This is a strong contender for most spectacular dayhike in Alaska. It begins at the end of Exit Glacier Road, just inside Kenai Fjords National Park. For several thousand feet, it switchbacks on mostly excellent tread (hiked by quite a lot of people on nice days) near the edge of the glacier, with an excellent viewpoint about half way up. Eventually, it pops above the alpine meadows into a post-glacial rocky area which often holds snow through much of the summer. Eventually a trail shelter is reached, with the end of hikeable terrain attained soon after. The end of the trail perches on a rocky outcrop at the edge of Harding Icefield, a massive chunk of ice which nearly buries a whole mountain range. The Nunataks directly across the ice are about 20 miles away and form some of the most enormous wind cirques I’ve ever seen. The other direction provides a birds eye view of the deep green Resurrection River Valley, but it’s the outrageously unique icefield landscape that will remain burned into your memory after this hike. Round Trip: about 8 miles. Elevation Gain: 3150 ft.
Harding Icefield Trail
Harding Icefield Trail
Mountain Goats in front of Harding Icefield, Seward
Mountain Goats in front of Harding Icefield, Seward
Exit Glacier, seward (2)
Exit Glacier, seward (2)
Exit Glacier, Seward (3)
Exit Glacier, Seward (3)
Exit Glacier, Seward
Exit Glacier, Seward
Exit Glacier
Exit Glacier
Harding Icefield hike, Seward (2)
Harding Icefield hike, Seward (2)
Harding Icefield Hike, Seward (3)
Harding Icefield Hike, Seward (3)
Harding Icefield Hike, Seward
Harding Icefield Hike, Seward
Harding Icefield Trail, Seward
Harding Icefield Trail, Seward
Harding Icefield
Harding Icefield
Mountain Goat near Harding Icefield, Seward
Mountain Goat near Harding Icefield, Seward

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Mega-Will
country bumpkin



Joined: 22 Dec 2006
Posts: 655 | TRs | Pics
Location: Olympic Peninsula
Mega-Will
country bumpkin
PostFri Jan 02, 2015 3:10 am 
Lost Lake I’ve been out to Lost Lake near Seward a couple times now (though I can’t find the pictures from the first time). Most recently, when these pictures were taken, my mom dropped me off while the folks were visiting so I could do the whole traverse, from Primrose Campground to the main southern trailhead, a total of 15 miles or so. Traverses are always fun, but that northern end was a little boring, through uninspiring subalpine forest most of the way. The area around the lake and the meadow country to the south is absolutely gorgeous however. This really reminded me of the lush meadow parklands at treeline in the western Cascades, which is something you don’t see as often in Alaskan trails. And supposedly there’s lots of trail-less high tundra accessible to the west of the lake that I haven’t had a chance to get into yet. The fact that this hike is almost 500 miles from where I currently live might have something to do with that. Round trip from south: 14.7 miles. Elevation Gain: 2500 ft.
Lost Lake Trail
Lost Lake Trail
Lost Lake, Seward
Lost Lake, Seward
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Lost Lake, Seward (2)
Lost Lake, Seward (2)
Lost Lake hike
Lost Lake hike
Lost Lake Hike in October, Seward
Lost Lake Hike in October, Seward
Lost Lake hike (2)
Lost Lake hike (2)
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Mega-Will
country bumpkin



Joined: 22 Dec 2006
Posts: 655 | TRs | Pics
Location: Olympic Peninsula
Mega-Will
country bumpkin
PostFri Jan 02, 2015 3:11 am 
Mt. Marathon This 3,000 foot mountain directly behind Seward is pretty famous up here as the location of the annual 4th of July race. The top competitors go pretty nuts with speed on this race, and injuries are common. The fastest times are just under an hour, up and down. The rest of the summer however, the mountain provides a short but challenging hike very close to town. The trailhead I’ve used is back behind the Seward hospital. Follow some faint tread past a picnic table to a rockslide, ascend this, and then commence the authentic tree root climb up an absurdly steep slope. Be VERY careful on this section on the way down, and don’t do this hike in wet weather. This path eventually intersects an old road and signs lead the way, sortof… Overall it’s difficult to describe, and finding a workable route just takes some poking around (generally go up). Eventually, you’ll find yourself above brush line and the way is obvious, though still very steep. Thank goodness the views are fantastic… Honestly I’d have a hard time recommending this hike, though I’ve completed it twice. Take that for what it’s worth. Another hike out of Seward that I haven’t done yet, but looks exceptional is the trip out along the beach to Caines Head, and then up towards Callisto Peak. Apparently the view of Bear Glacier, Resurrection Bay, and the Kenai Mountains is one of the best in the state. Seward is also a hot spot for charter cruise or kayak trips out to see Kenai Fjords National Park, usually to Aialik Bay or Northwestern Fjord. Round Trip: 2 miles (race route, normal hiker’s route is much longer) Elevation Gain: 2600 ft.
Mt. Marathon Trail
Mt. Marathon Trail
Seward from Mt. Marathon hike
Seward from Mt. Marathon hike
Mt Marathon Hike, Seward
Mt Marathon Hike, Seward
Mt. Alice from Mt. Marathon hike, Seward
Mt. Alice from Mt. Marathon hike, Seward
Mt. Marathon hike, Seward (2)
Mt. Marathon hike, Seward (2)
Mt. Marathon Hike, Seward (3)
Mt. Marathon Hike, Seward (3)
Mt. Marathon Hike, Seward (4)
Mt. Marathon Hike, Seward (4)
Mt. Marathon Hike, Seward (5)
Mt. Marathon Hike, Seward (5)
Mt. Marathon Hike, Seward
Mt. Marathon Hike, Seward
Resurrection Bay from Mt. Marathon, Seward (2)
Resurrection Bay from Mt. Marathon, Seward (2)
Resurrection Bay from Mt. Marathon, Seward
Resurrection Bay from Mt. Marathon, Seward
Seward from Mt. Marathon hike (2)
Seward from Mt. Marathon hike (2)

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Mega-Will
country bumpkin



Joined: 22 Dec 2006
Posts: 655 | TRs | Pics
Location: Olympic Peninsula
Mega-Will
country bumpkin
PostFri Jan 02, 2015 3:11 am 
Portage Pass Due to a massive snowpack, soggy summer weather, and sinister mutant underbrush, there aren’t very many trails on the western Prince William Sound Coast. In fact, Whittier was chosen for a military supply port, in part, because it’s almost never sunny there… But there are a few trails, and on a rare clear day in late summer, the short easy hike to Portage Pass offers a jaw dropping view of a glacier calving into a lake, a chaos of striking green, gray, and snow streaked coastal peaks, and fascinating post-glacial erosion canyons at the pass. Even if the weather is questionable, a drive past Portage Lake to Whittier is usually highly worthwhile – one of the most awe inspiring and dynamic road accessible places in the state, and probably the world. The 2.5 mile long tunnel under the mountains to Whittier is worth the trip alone. Not only is the tunnel just one lane wide, it’s also shared with the Alaska Railroad! Be prepared to wait your turn (and pay the $12 round trip toll). Whittier isn’t really a town – conventional snow removal would be too inefficient. Just about all the residents live in a great big apartment / office / commercial complex. Weird, weird place… This is also another great spot to catch a glacier cruise or charter a sea kayaking trip. I haven’t done either yet, but photos I’ve seen of glacier draped mountains rising 5-10,000 feet out of Harriman and College Fjords put it high on my list. Another apparently good, short hike in the area that I haven’t done yet is the trail to Byron Glacier. Definitely save that for late summer though because that narrow little valley gets completely blasted by avalanches and the snow takes forever to melt. Round Trip: about 2 miles. Elevation Gain: 700 feet.
Portage Pass, Byron Glacier Trails
Portage Pass, Byron Glacier Trails
Portage Glacier
Portage Glacier
Portage Glacier, Whittier
Portage Glacier, Whittier
Byron Glacier Round Trip: 2 miles. Elevation Gain: 500 feet.
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258 (3)
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255 (2)

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Mega-Will
country bumpkin



Joined: 22 Dec 2006
Posts: 655 | TRs | Pics
Location: Olympic Peninsula
Mega-Will
country bumpkin
PostFri Jan 02, 2015 3:12 am 
Prince William Sound There are a wide variety of charter boats in most of the coastal communities which will take you around and show the sights, usually including mountains, fjords, calving glaciers, and wildlife. One of the most convenient is out of the town of Whittier, an hour and a half or so by road from Anchorage. I took the "27 Glacier Cruise" once, taking advantage of an especially nice day. So nice in fact that a solid half of the people on the boat seemed to be locals. Don't expect blue skies in this part of the world.
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Mega-Will
country bumpkin



Joined: 22 Dec 2006
Posts: 655 | TRs | Pics
Location: Olympic Peninsula
Mega-Will
country bumpkin
PostFri Jan 02, 2015 3:13 am 
Delta
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Sunset over the Delta River (3)
Sunset over the Delta River (3)
Sunset over the Delta River
Sunset over the Delta River
Tanana pipeline bridge, Delta
Tanana pipeline bridge, Delta
Tanana River and pipeline bridge from Big D Bluff
Tanana River and pipeline bridge from Big D Bluff
Tanana River Big Delta
Tanana River Big Delta
Tanana River in Big D
Tanana River in Big D
Tanana River in Big Delta
Tanana River in Big Delta
Tanana River, Big D
Tanana River, Big D
The pipeline crosses the Tanana River, near Delta
The pipeline crosses the Tanana River, near Delta
View from Big D Bluff (2)
View from Big D Bluff (2)
View from Big D bluff, at the confluence of Delta and Tanana Rivers
View from Big D bluff, at the confluence of Delta and Tanana Rivers
View from Big D Bluff
View from Big D Bluff
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View of the Alaska Range from Big D Bluff
View of the Alaska Range from Big D Bluff
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Forest fire from Delta
Forest fire from Delta
Granite Mountains, Richardson Highway (2)
Granite Mountains, Richardson Highway (2)
Granite Mountains, Richardson Highway
Granite Mountains, Richardson Highway
Moose and Mt. Moffit
Moose and Mt. Moffit
Mt Hayes from Donnelly Training Area
Mt Hayes from Donnelly Training Area
Mt. Deborah from Delta
Mt. Deborah from Delta
Mt. Hayes from Delta (2)
Mt. Hayes from Delta (2)
Mt. Hayes from Delta (3)
Mt. Hayes from Delta (3)
Mt. Hayes from Delta (4)
Mt. Hayes from Delta (4)
Mt. Hayes from Delta (5)
Mt. Hayes from Delta (5)
Mt. McGiness from Donnelly Training Area
Mt. McGiness from Donnelly Training Area
Mt. McGiness, from backroad in Donnelly Training Area
Mt. McGiness, from backroad in Donnelly Training Area
Mt. Moffit from Delta (2)
Mt. Moffit from Delta (2)
Mt. Moffit, Donnelly Training Area
Mt. Moffit, Donnelly Training Area
Mt. Moffitt from Big D Bluff
Mt. Moffitt from Big D Bluff
Near Big Delta 2
Near Big Delta 2
Outdoor shop with Mt. Hayes
Outdoor shop with Mt. Hayes
Over the Tanana Valley in fall, from Richardson Highwa
Over the Tanana Valley in fall, from Richardson Highwa
Quartz Lake just before first snow
Quartz Lake just before first snow
Quartz Lake, near Delta
Quartz Lake, near Delta
Alaska Range from Delta (3)
Alaska Range from Delta (3)
Alaska Range from Delta
Alaska Range from Delta
Alaska Range from Deltana (2)
Alaska Range from Deltana (2)
Alaska Range from Deltana
Alaska Range from Deltana
Alaska Range Richardson Highway
Alaska Range Richardson Highway
Alaska Range south of Delta
Alaska Range south of Delta
Alaska Range, South of Delta (2)
Alaska Range, South of Delta (2)
Alaska Range, south of Delta
Alaska Range, south of Delta
Big D Bluff (2)
Big D Bluff (2)
Big D Bluff (3)
Big D Bluff (3)
Big D Bluff (4)
Big D Bluff (4)
Blasphemy on Big D Bluff
Blasphemy on Big D Bluff
Big D Park
Big D Park
Big D Historical Park
Big D Historical Park
Big D Historical Park (8)
Big D Historical Park (8)
Big D Historical Park (7)
Big D Historical Park (7)
Big D Historical Park (6)
Big D Historical Park (6)
Big D Historical Park (5)
Big D Historical Park (5)
Big D Historical Park (4)
Big D Historical Park (4)
Big D Historical Park (3)
Big D Historical Park (3)
Big D Historical Park (2)
Big D Historical Park (2)
Big D Bluff
Big D Bluff
Big D Bluff from the highway
Big D Bluff from the highway
Blowing silt over Delta River
Blowing silt over Delta River
Deltana farm country
Deltana farm country
Farm fields and Mt. Hayes
Farm fields and Mt. Hayes
Forest fire from Delta 2
Forest fire from Delta 2
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Alaska Range from Delta (2)
Alaska Range from Delta (2)
Alaska Range from Big D Bluff
Alaska Range from Big D Bluff
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View towards Delta and Fort Greely from Big D Bluff
View towards Delta and Fort Greely from Big D Bluff
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Mega-Will
country bumpkin



Joined: 22 Dec 2006
Posts: 655 | TRs | Pics
Location: Olympic Peninsula
Mega-Will
country bumpkin
PostFri Jan 02, 2015 3:14 am 
Fairbanks
Fairbanks Ice Art
Fairbanks Ice Art
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Fairbanks Ice Art 2
Fairbanks Ice Art 2
Fairbanks Ice Art 3
Fairbanks Ice Art 3
Fairbanks Ice Art 4
Fairbanks Ice Art 4
Fairbanks Ice Art 5
Fairbanks Ice Art 5
Fairbanks Ice Art 6
Fairbanks Ice Art 6
Fairbanks Ice Art 7
Fairbanks Ice Art 7
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Fairbanks Ice Art 8
Fairbanks Ice Art, Ironic
Fairbanks Ice Art, Ironic
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Tanana River
Tanana River
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Between Delta and Fairbanks (3)
Between Delta and Fairbanks (3)
Between Delta and Fairbanks (2)
Between Delta and Fairbanks (2)
Along the Richardson between Delta and Fairbanks
Along the Richardson between Delta and Fairbanks
Alaska Range between Delta and Fairbanks
Alaska Range between Delta and Fairbanks
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Between Delta and Fairbanks
Between Delta and Fairbanks
Fog in Tanana Valley
Fog in Tanana Valley
Ice fishing on Birch Lake
Ice fishing on Birch Lake
Mt. Hayes over fog, Richardson Highway
Mt. Hayes over fog, Richardson Highway
Mt. Hayes over Tanana River 2
Mt. Hayes over Tanana River 2
Mt. Hayes over Tanana River
Mt. Hayes over Tanana River
Mt. Hayes
Mt. Hayes
Mt. Silvertip over Tanana River
Mt. Silvertip over Tanana River
On the Richardson Highway between Delta and Fairbanks
On the Richardson Highway between Delta and Fairbanks
Richardson Highway, between Delta and Fairbanks
Richardson Highway, between Delta and Fairbanks
Tanana River between Delta and Fairbanks
Tanana River between Delta and Fairbanks
Tanana River in winter
Tanana River in winter
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Mega-Will
country bumpkin



Joined: 22 Dec 2006
Posts: 655 | TRs | Pics
Location: Olympic Peninsula
Mega-Will
country bumpkin
PostFri Jan 02, 2015 3:15 am 
Work Thought some of you might find the sort of work that I do interesting. Most of these pictures were taken doing field work on the remote army training lands of Eastern Interior Alaska. My first summer was spent doing survey work for an archaeology crew, then I spent a couple years doing a baseline vegetation survey, a year doing wetlands, and then the last couple working on a soil survey. In any case, the most exciting aspect of the work is access, which has included small plane, helicopter, argo, river raft, power boat, ATV, snowmachine, and plenty of hiking.
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Photo-0025
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Photo-0029
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Photo-0040
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Photo-0051
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Photo-0058
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Photo-0077
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Photo-0081
Remote ridge in Alaska Range, for work
Remote ridge in Alaska Range, for work
Ridge in Alaska Range, for work
Ridge in Alaska Range, for work
Snowmachining for work (2)
Snowmachining for work (2)
Snowmachining for work in Donnelly Training Area
Snowmachining for work in Donnelly Training Area
Work Helicopter
Work Helicopter
Work helicopter and our pilot Kurt, straight out of Maui...
Work helicopter and our pilot Kurt, straight out of Maui...
Work camp in Donnelly Training Area
Work camp in Donnelly Training Area
Work 4-wheeler, Delta
Work 4-wheeler, Delta
Wolf tracks
Wolf tracks
Trident Glacier from work helicopter
Trident Glacier from work helicopter
The taxi, 2010 forestry
The taxi, 2010 forestry
The only possible landing spot in a beaver swamp
The only possible landing spot in a beaver swamp
Tanana River from the air
Tanana River from the air
Snowmachining for work
Snowmachining for work
Snowmachining for work, Donnelly Training Area
Snowmachining for work, Donnelly Training Area
Mt. Deborah and Hess from the air (2)
Mt. Deborah and Hess from the air (2)
Mt. Deborah and Hess from the air
Mt. Deborah and Hess from the air
Mt. Hayes from the air
Mt. Hayes from the air
Mt. Hayes, Delta
Mt. Hayes, Delta
Mt. Hess and Little Delta River
Mt. Hess and Little Delta River
Mt. Moffit from Delta (3)
Mt. Moffit from Delta (3)
Panorama Peak and fog, aerial
Panorama Peak and fog, aerial
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Photo-00
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Photo-0005
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Photo-0006
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Photo-0017
297918_685211240870_184903017_35469347_3865232_n
297918_685211240870_184903017_35469347_3865232_n
Adam battling mosquitoes
Adam battling mosquitoes
air view of cliffs along Little Delta River
air view of cliffs along Little Delta River
Alaska Range from Delta Creek, work
Alaska Range from Delta Creek, work
Alaska Range from the air
Alaska Range from the air
Alaska Range, for work
Alaska Range, for work
Backseat driving in the chopper
Backseat driving in the chopper
Crossing rain swollen creeks for forestry work
Crossing rain swollen creeks for forestry work
Donnely Dome Hike
Donnely Dome Hike
Donnelly Dome Hike
Donnelly Dome Hike
Donnelly Dome Hike, Delta
Donnelly Dome Hike, Delta
Donnelly Dome Hike (3)
Donnelly Dome Hike (3)
Donnelly Dome Hike (2)
Donnelly Dome Hike (2)
Flying over the Granite Mountains
Flying over the Granite Mountains
fog in Tanana Valley, from the air
fog in Tanana Valley, from the air
From a remote ridge in the Alaska Range foothills.  For work
From a remote ridge in the Alaska Range foothills. For work
Granite Mountains aerial
Granite Mountains aerial
Granite Mountains
Granite Mountains
Helicopter in the Alaska Range
Helicopter in the Alaska Range
Inside the helicopter, over the Little Delta River
Inside the helicopter, over the Little Delta River
Me, Kurt, and the helicopter
Me, Kurt, and the helicopter
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Mega-Will
country bumpkin



Joined: 22 Dec 2006
Posts: 655 | TRs | Pics
Location: Olympic Peninsula
Mega-Will
country bumpkin
PostFri Jan 02, 2015 3:16 am 
Trips Short Trips (5-7 Days) 1. Anchorage / Chugach State Park.
Chugach State Park
Chugach State Park
If you’re going to be up north for less than a week, and your main purpose is hiking, you won’t want to spend any extra time in a vehicle trying to get somewhere exotic. I’ve said it several times, but I’ll emphasize that Chugach State Park is a world class hiking destination, despite (and in small park because of) its close proximity to the city. It’s not just because there are beautiful snow streaked mountains here, jagged and varied in form. The views here also encompass a fjord, endless alpine tundra, fascinating treeline “fairy forests” of mountain hemlock and black cottonwood krummholtz, and an intact northern ecosystem showcasing LOTS of moose and black bear, as well as most other boreal critters. You crouch behind a wind-beaten tree-bush to watch two bull moose lock antlers and are as surprised as they are when a grizzly claims his berry patch. Then you spot some wolf tracks in the snowfield as you top out on a ridge overlooking …skyscrapers and haphazard suburban housing developments, beyond which the sun sets behind a distant scoop of strawberry icecream called Denali …at midnight. There’s a reason why many Alaskans proudly display their “I ♥ The Chugach” bumper stickers on their grimy, dented mountain rigs. Anchorage itself probably won’t be of any great interest to visitors. It’s not a bad town really, it’s just like everywhere else; like Spokane or Tacoma plopped in the middle of the wilderness, the only place in Alaska where you can forget you’re in Alaska. It’s claim to fame rests entirely on its extraordinary location. There are some worthwhile attractions for a rainy day such as the Native Heritage Center, Alaska Museum, and others, but most visitors on their way to the wilderness will find all they need in Midtown (the area around Spenard Rd. and Northern Lights Blvd.). In this area are excellent outdoor shops such as Alaska Mountaineering and Hiking (AMH) and REI. There’s also plenty of lodging, great places to eat like the Moose’s Tooth, one of my favorite bookstores, called Title Wave, in the same complex as REI. There’s even the “world famous” (maybe?) Chilkoot Charlie’s Bar, which has at least a couple stages and about 10 bars (I dunno, they’re pretty good at getting me disoriented). For transportation to trailheads around Anchorage, I always like the flexibility of a rental car when I travel, but it’s not an absolute necessity for a hiking vacation to the Chugach since driving distances are short and public transport can be arranged. Prime hiking destinations include Bird Ridge, Rabbit Lake, Williwaw Lakes, O’Malley Peak, Eagle / Symphony Lakes, and the Eagle River – Crow Pass Traverse (Iditarod Trail). Amazingly though, few routes here will be a waste of time. A couple trails in the “Anchorage Front Range” are very popular on nice days, even crowded, but the rest of the park ranges from moderate use to completely lonely. Even if not planning a hike, trailheads worth visiting just for the roadside views include Eklutna Lake, Baldy Trailhead (Skyline Drive above the town of Eagle River best in-town view of Denali), Eagle River Valley, South Fork Eagle River, Arctic Valley Ski Area (gravel road), Glen Alps (Flattop Trailhead), and Crow Pass Trailhead behind Girdwood (gravel road). 2. Juneau.
Juneau
Juneau
While Anchorage sports world class hiking trails from its suburban backroads, the city of Juneau itself clings to the icy spires of the coast range, quite literally holding on to its status for dear life. The inconvenient location of the capitol city has encouraged a move of the legislature to Anchorage since Alaska became a state, a move largely blocked by the residents of Fairbanks, cuz we hate Los Anchorage... This is one of only a handful of locations in North America where avalanche insurance exists. Though Juneau International Airport is a significantly cheaper flight from Seattle than other northern destinations, you’ll swear you’re merely visiting a cloud until forested mountains appear alarmingly close, then you nearly land in the waters of the inside passage. There’s always a sense of relief when the plane pulls up to the soggy terminal. Yes it rains here – lots. But in Juneau, a glacier also calves into a suburban lake right behind the Mendenhall Walmart. A state capital resides over a misty kingdom of forest and mountains, cut off from the rest of the world (and the rest of Alaska, as we like to point out). As might be expected with many thousands of cruise visitors and an educated, progressive local population, there’s an excellent foot trail system right behind town, offering views of the convoluted waterways of southeast Alaska, the massive Juneau Icefield, and the jagged coastal peaks which rise above it. Like Chugach State Park, a rental car is a bonus for hikers in Juneau, but not an absolute necessity. Even more so than Anchorage, the capitol city is set up for visitors and there’s not exactly a great deal of roads here anyway. I haven’t yet hiked in Juneau so I really shouldn’t recommend the top trails, but I’m pretty obsessive about information gathering and photo browsing so I’ll go ahead and say that Mt. Roberts and Mt. Juneau are right behind town and seem like as good a place to start as any (for fit hikers). Other than that, Mt. McGinnis occupies a commanding position above Mendenhall Glacier, though the trail up it is rough. Herbert and Eagle Glaciers both have trails, as well as Pt. Bridget out near the end of the highway, overlooking the exceptionally wild country surrounding Lynn Canal. 3. Fairbanks …IN WINTER!
Fairbanks Winter Trip
Fairbanks Winter Trip
Yes you read that right; unless you plan on exploring the far flung gravel backroads of the interior, the most interesting time for a quick trip to the region is in late winter (March) when you can feel the bite of arctic cold in the morning, the awakening sun in the afternoon, and watch the aurora dance through the night. My first impression of the interior, just after I moved to the state, was underwhelming. Shrubby deciduous trees hemmed in the roads, and blocked views of boring rolling hills, little more spectacular than uh, upstate New York or somewhere else not worth visiting. Even then in July though, a little driving around began to sway my low opinion, and I came to the conclusion that this was a land made for winter, by winter. In January, 4 hour days and low temperatures dropping to -60 certainly give you a sense of place, but a visit during that time will probably find you acting like a local (watching TV and drinking too much). March is the secret season up here, when the days are long (enough), the cold won’t send you into coughing fits, and the waterways are still frozen solid, allowing access to millions of acres out of reach the rest of the year. Unlike Anchorage and Juneau, Fairbanks doesn’t exactly nestle up against world class backcountry recreation. Don’t get me wrong, getting up on the hills behind town will overwhelm you with the empty vastness of the interior, but there’s only a little terrain above treeline up there and you have to get a ways out of town to find country really worth exploring. If you’re going to head straight out to the hot springs and don’t plan on much exploring otherwise, then a rental car’s not needed. Otherwise, pick up a rig. Road conditions are usually better throughout Alaska in March than earlier in the winter, since the month is normally very dry and the sun starts to have an effect, but no promises! Where to go? The BLM maintains a vast system of winter trails and cabins in the White Mountains north of town. Distances are long and they’re mainly used by snowmobilers, but this huge country is guaranteed to swallow all who enter, including a substantial proportion of dog mushers and backcountry skiers. The White Mountains offer probably the premier backcountry recreation in the interior, and nobody knows about them… They require more preparation and commitment than most visitors can give though, so you’ll probably focus on the area around Chena Hot Springs, 55 miles out a paved road east of Fairbanks. Poke around on snowshoes as much as you feel comfortable, given the temperature, then spend the evenings soaking in the springs, watching the northern lights and sculpting your wet, frozen hair while in a surreal state of comfort stolen from the earth. Medium Length Trips (8-12 Days) 1. Whitehorse Loop + Kluane National Park.
Golden Circle Trip
Golden Circle Trip
Fly into Whitehorse, Yukon Territory, rent a car, and drive the loop that passes through Carcross, Skagway, Haines, and Haines Jct. with a side trip up at least as far as Tachal Dhal in Kluane National Park (pronounced Kloo-ah-nee). Overall, I’d probably choose this as my number one choice for first time visitors to the north. No other region includes such a wide range of iconic northern landscapes and towns in such a compact area. There are coastal fjords, rainforests, and glacier draped mountains. There are vast expanses of alpine tundra, with the rock and ice of the coast range close at hand. There are warm and sunny interior boreal forests cut up with long fjord-like turquoise lakes. I think this route is advertized in Canadian travel publications, but aside from the uber cruise destination Skagway, the “golden loop” gets much less press than Alaskan destinations accessible from Anchorage, or those immediately along the southeast coast. Here you can sense the vast loneliness of the north, but with paved roads and modern facilities (if you want them). Whitehorse itself is a really cool town – one of my favorite in the north. The area has a population of 30,000 or so and the town is a major regional center offering all services. More importantly, the population seems energetic and excited to live where they do, on the banks of the upper Yukon River. The immediate surroundings aren’t exactly jaw dropping – just very pleasant, consisting of rolling boreal forest, with lake dotted tundra highlands close by, most notably in the Fish Lake area which is worth a visit. Mt. Lorne, 25 or 30 miles out of town along the road towards Skagway is probably the most spectacular hike in the region, though it’s a bit rough. There are not as many developed trails along the golden loop as in some of the more popular spots, but there are more than enough to occupy a 1-2 week trip, and the access to deep backcountry at the coast range passes is sure to start you thinking about long traverses. The Chilkoot Trail, just outside Skagway, is of course the most famous hike in the region, and is notably just about the only multi-day maintained trail in SE Alaska. Be forewarned though that it is quite popular, subject to a permit system, and is littered with all kinds of old mining junk – er, artifacts… Other recommendable hikes near Skagway include Dewey Lakes, A B Mountain, and Laughton Glacier which is only accessible with a short hop on the White Pass & Yukon Railroad. After the short vehicle-ferry trip to Haines, the best hikes are probably Mt. Riley and Seduction Point out on the peninsula, and Mt. Ripinski right above town. Both Chilkat Pass above Haines, and White Pass above Skagway offer world class cross country hiking and scrambling, with trips of any length. There aren’t any trails to speak of, so just look at a map and decide where you want to go and take off across the tundra. The Haines Highway roughly borders Kluane National Park offering excellent hikes such as King’s Throne near Kathleen Lake and Slims River Valley to Kaskawulsh Glacier and Observation Mountain from the shore of Kluane Lake, a ways up the Alaska Highway from Haines Jct. The hikes in Kluane are generally on maintained trails below brush line, with lots of options for challenging cross country travel beyond that. 2. Denali State Park, Mat-Su, Kenai Peninsula.
Southcentral Trip
Southcentral Trip
Note that Denali National Park is much closer to Fairbanks, takes some time and logistics to do right, and is not included in this trip. Fly to Anchorage. You’ll want a rental car. This itinerary explores the hinterlands north and south of the city, which would be considered deeply rural anywhere else, but the modest stamp of civilization here makes visiting a little easier than the true backcountry, with paved roads, adequate modern facilities, and readily available information. If you’re flexible and not a fan of reservations, you can pick which direction to head first when you check the weather upon arrival in Anchorage. By checking the weather, I mean drive out to Earthquake Park (just west of midtown) and looking north. Can you see Denali? If so, go that way! The Susitna Valley which borders the south slopes of the Alaska Range is gorgeous on a clear day, but the enormous mountains are really quite distant, so low or mid-level clouds will find you in a broad lowland, alternating between heavy forest and swamp, wondering what all the fuss is about. Still, Talkeetna is a cool funky little town with oddly good nightlife, though less and less of a secret apparently, particularly when the cruise company train is in town. Try visiting off-peak season for the real deal when you’ll see why Talkeetna was the inspiration for the Northern Exposure TV show. Hiking in the region is mostly confined to the excellent Kesugi Ridge Trail System. If you can afford it, flightseeing out of Talkeetna is one of the most jaw dropping experiences available anywhere. Map nerds can’t help but notice the Petersville Road heading straight towards the mountains from near Talkeetna. This road does access some really cool trail-less high country with kill-all views, but it’s rough gravel, and even dirt near the end. Not recommended for most visitors. Another gravel road that’s recommendable if you’ve got the option is the route from Willow, over Hatcher Pass, past Independence Mine Historical Park, to Palmer. This beautiful drive, mostly way above treeline, is probably the highlight of the Mat-Su region, and offers the bonus of bypassing Wasilla – always a good idea… If you’ve got to stay on pavement, the section from Palmer to the historical park is paved, ridiculously beautiful, and accesses most of the trailheads. The scenic climax at the pass is a short jaunt on gravel from this side too (shhh, don’t tell your rental company). Reed Lakes is almost certainly the best trail here. The Bomber Glacier semi-loop is even better, but has a significant trail-less section and generally requires ice axe and crampons. The other fantastic trip in the region is out the narrow, winding Glenn Highway to Matanuska Glacier and Eureka Summit, where southcentral transitions perceptibly to the interior. This region is mostly known for motorized trails, but a dayhike up Gunsight Peak makes a great trip which is done much less often than most of my recommendations. I like the spot because it’s in a position to see more of Alaska’s major summits than just about anywhere else. Pioneer Peak, rising imposingly above Palmer, is the other must-do hike in the Mat-Su region, though it’s actually just inside Chugach State Park. As I’m writing this, I’m realizing it’s going to be a pretty darn action packed itinerary… Anyway, the Kenai Peninsula is maybe the most beloved region anywhere in the state. It’s beautiful, fairly close to Anchorage, relatively compact, has a substantial outdoor-sport infrastructure, and features world-class fishing (the #1 draw). This is the area that will seem most familiar to those used to visiting national parks in the lower 48, and is probably the Alaska that resides in most folks’ imagination – kinda like coastal Washington on steroids. The region has that classic layer cake look, with glacier capped mountains plopped on verdant subalpine greenery, over dark spruce forests and gushing turquoise waterways choked with salmon and marine life. Most of the accessible Kenai is away from the windward coast, which is very stormy, but drizzly weather should still be expected here. Fortunately, in contrast with the austere interior mountain ranges, the landscape on the Kenai is close enough that clouds can play amid the peaks, often increasing the drama rather than obscuring it. There are a fair number of towns on the peninsula. Seward is probably the best spot to base an outdoor oriented vacation due to the abundance of trails and the option of charter trips along the coast of Kenai Fjords National Park. Homer has maybe the most beautiful location of any town in Alaska and is a must-visit for people who like lots of art galleries, coffee shops and burnt out hippies… Unfortunately all that spectacular scenery requires a water taxi to really explore (Kachemak State Park, across the bay) and is probably beyond the scope of 1-2 week vacationers unless it’s a priority. The Kenai/Soldotna/Sterling area is the most heavily populated on the peninsula, and is hardly worth a stop (compare with Wasilla and North Pole). Kenai has some historical sites, and some of the only decent beaches in Alaska, so it’s worth taking the Kalifonsky Beach loop road rather than the highway. One more mention: Ninilchik has a beautiful old Russian church on a bluff overlooking Cook Inlet and the volcanoes of western Alaska, and is worth a stop. On the other side of town sits a campground amid craggy old cottonwoods on a similarly beautiful bluff. For hiking, the one must-do trail on the Kenai is Harding Icefield (Exit Glacier) just outside Seward. The Resurrection Pass traverse is pretty well known, and features a bunch of cabins for pampered hikers, but isn’t really essential. Go to Johnson Pass instead. Lost Lake is another trail near Seward which is highly recommended. Although not technically on the peninsula, the Portage Valley area fits best in this section. The 2.5 mile railroad/highway tunnel to Whittier is just darn cool, and does lead to the short but spectacular Portage Pass Trail, and lots of boat charters from Whittier to off-the-chart-amazing places like College and Harriman Fjords. If nothing else, at least take the short side-drive to Portage Lake, one of the most beautiful road-accessible places in the state (and most popular – only an hour from Anchorage). 3. Southeast by ferry.
Southeast by ferry
Southeast by ferry
Ok, this is going to be shorter, since my only time in southeast, aside from the road accessible northern end, was on the ferry in the fall, mostly in the dark. Still, I’d have no claim to a comprehensive guide to far-northwestern North America without passing on knowledge of this area I’ve gleaned from lots of different sources. The fact that I’ve spent so little time in southeast should be informative. It is NOT convenient or recommendable to hit both mainland AK and the panhandle in the same vacation. Alaska’s status as a single state misleadingly gives folks the impression that it’s something like a single destination. Just remember, Ketchikan is closer to Seattle than it is to Anchorage, both in distance and in culture. Unless you want to be herded onto a big floating hotel and then dumbly led around to some life-size postcards, the state ferry is THE way to see southeast. The fact that even avid outdoor enthusiasts consider taking the big cruise ships utterly baffles me. There could be nothing more incongruous with the landscape and lifestyle you’re passing through than the giant, sterile, sparkly behemoths. These floating cities have populations greater than only a handful of northern towns, and a demographic that couldn’t be more opposite. “Oh it’s raining in Alaska (…) so let’s go inside and catch a movie, or hang out in the pool.” Bleh, keep the damn things in the tropics. Though the ferry can be taken all the way from Bellingham, I don’t recommend that long, slow trip as part of this itinerary. Fly into Ketchikan and do a round trip on the boat from there. Unfortunately “Ketch” is a real town that’s been quite overrun by the cruise industry. Downtown probably isn’t worth your time, but poke around a bit to find cool totem parks and a picturesque, elongated forest town along the water. The surrounding area reveals interesting examples of native Tlingit culture, and a unique large town, spread along a mountainous shoreline. Once on the ferry from Ketchikan, bike tour enthusiasts might want to check out Prince of Wales Island, which has the most extensive system of backroads in southeast. I’d probably skip that one though. If ferry schedules allow a one day stop in Wrangell, I’d recommend it. It’s simply a pleasant, rural, coastal town with some hiking available (though it doesn’t measure up with others in the region). A jet boat tour up the lower Stikine River looks fantastic, and is a bit of a twist on the standard boat charters in coastal AK. Like Wrangell, Petersburg isn’t exactly overflowing with big-draw tourist attractions, but I’ve never known of anyone who didn’t come away raving about the place (well, maybe not about the weather). It’s unique on the west coast of North America as a fishing village settled by Norwegians that has very much kept its cultural identity, and it’s not just a show for the tourists. There’s a fair amount of road mileage on the island, though the most enjoyable outdoor recreation would probably be putzing around the island in a small boat (which can be arranged). Some low key hiking, and charter trips out to LeConte Glacier are also available, though similar trips further north are probably preferable. Though Sitka is somewhat off the mainline ferry route, it’s a mandatory stop. One respected travel writer from Anchorage even stated that if he was going to visit only one place in Alaska, it would be Sitka; pretty strong words in a land of superlatives. For one thing, the place actually has a history. Most northern towns consider some mining junk and leaning log cabins historical attractions, but Sitka was the capital of Russian America, and dates back to the very early 1800s. That of course is not very old by world standards, but the monumental difference in era and culture separates it from anywhere else in the north. Of course, it’s also in a very picturesque location. The roads from Sitka don’t lead very far, but the close-by Mt. Verstovia trail is a highly recommended hike, and leads to an alpine ridge system potentially accessing much of Baranof Island. As if you hadn’t had enough of the water travel theme, many of Sitka’s trails are only accessible by water taxi, the prominent Mt. Edgecrumb among them. Since you already visited Juneau in the short trips section, use the capital city here only for beginning journeys that require a little more time and logistics, such as Tracy Arm and Glacier Bay. Although there’s lots of fjords on the northwest coast, all the way from Vancouver to Anchorage, Tracy Arm probably most closely approximates the classic fjords of Norway; long, narrow, steep walled, but here the ice age hasn’t fully ended, and glaciers still dump icebergs at the valley head. This and other fjords are accessed via popular boat tours from Juneau. Glacier Bay on the other hand, is a scenic highlight of the planet, but takes some effort to get to, unless you’re on a package cruise tour, in which case you can step out of the dimly lit casino to cross off calving glaciers from your yuppie list (ooohh, just made some enemies). For real people with two legs and a brain, a trip to Glacier Bay begins on a charter boat from Juneau, or with a short air hop to Gustavus, where you get on a boat. I’d choose Gustavus because the place is kinda neat. At the mouth of recently ice covered Glacier Bay, it’s ironically the only farming community in southeast Alaska. Haines and Skagway are also located on the inside passage, but my recommendation is to focus on the non-road accessible communities for this itinerary. That wasn’t very short… Long Trips (13-21 Days) 1. Great Northern Road Trip.
Great Alaska Road Trip
Great Alaska Road Trip
For this route, you’ll fly into Anchorage, rent a car (all on paved roads again), and basically do the big highway loop, with the main attractions being Denali National Park, Wrangell St. Elias National Park, Valdez, Cordova, and the spectacular unprotected mountainous country along the Richardson Highway. You may be surprised to see Denali National Park this far down on the list, but these itineraries aren’t meant to be in order; just organized to try and help people get what they want out of the place. It is my strong opinion that this most famous of Alaskan attractions doesn’t lend itself at all to the full-throttle package tours which bring the majority of visitors to the park, many of whom leave disappointed. Denali IS a unique and spectacular place, but you’ve got to give it some time, poke around, let it sink in …hope the weather clears up. I’d say it’s not worth your time unless you spend at least two nights inside the park, though the place can keep your attention much longer than that. These days in the park can be spent cross-country backpacking, or at least doing shuttle-assisted dayhikes from one of the campgrounds along the road. Since a limited backcountry permit is required to camp away from the road (but not to dayhike), you’ll want to look at the map beforehand and pick out a first, second, third (fourth, fifth…) choice. Generally speaking, the best hikes are on the south side of the road, and get more spectacular as you go west. Eielson Visitors Center is arguably the scenic climax of the route, and is unsurprisingly the epicenter of hiking in the park as well. The best dayhikes include Mt. Eielson, Gravel Mountain, and Mt. Thoro. The best backpacking trips are probably the loops; Eielson to Toklat, and Sable Pass to Sanctuary River. Much of the fun here though is taking advantage of the wide open country; poking around canyons, bagging little summits, chasing sheep around, etc. Take note that this interior side of the range has a continental climate complete with afternoon cloud building and thunderstorms, so make a point of hitting the scenic high points as early as possible. After you’ve utterly escaped the modern world for awhile, it might just put you in the right mood to enjoy Fairbanks. In an age where cities blend together, connected by tendons of strip malls and fast food joints, it’s getting real hard to find an honest to goodness provincial outpost, a place where the surrounding nothingness makes you appreciate …strip malls and fast food joints. Well, you’ve found one. Somewhere I heard the place referred to as a cross between Siberia and a tourist trap in Kansas. While Anchorage has at least a hint of urban sophistication, Fairbanks clutches to its wild west reputation as though that’s the only thing it’s got going for it, and well, that might strike closer to the truth than most residents would like to admit. Nevertheless, people are boisterously proud to live here and that might be why I like the place so darn much; folks choose to live here specifically because it’s NOT a normal place to live. I’ve never been anywhere else so full of individuals as opposed to the gray mass of modern western society. Fairbanks in summer is addictively energetic, with light around the clock, lots of live music, and surprisingly warm weather that keeps everybody outdoors as much as possible. The place doesn’t have many really interesting attractions (Pioneer Park and the UAF Museum of the North are worth a couple hours each, and the paddle wheeler on the Chena River is kinda neat, worth a photo but not the expensive ride), but it’s a great place to spend a day and a night out of the mountains. Take note that the enjoyable parts of town are west and north, around the University, Ester, and Fox, where Silver Gulch Brewpub and the Howling Dog Saloon are across the street from each other (sounds like a good evening to me…). The intersection of College and University includes Beaver Sports; Fairbanks’ only gear shop mainly focused on hikers, climbers, and paddlers. There’s also a bookstore, and lots of good places to eat nearby. The military bases dominate the south and east side of town, with box stores, car dealerships, and strip clubs. Avoid. Downtown itself is alright, but feels a little empty, though the new public lands information center is there. Visitors who don’t know how to party aren’t particularly enamored with Fairbanks because its surroundings aren’t especially interesting. The forests, rivers, and hills are pleasant enough, but people come to Alaska for eye popping calving glaciers, rivers jumping with fish, roaring grizzly bears …or something. Just look at a damn weather report though. When you see that it’s raining buckets in Valdez (your next name-brand destination) you might be a little more enthusiastic about exploring the backroads north and east of Fairbanks. Chena Hot Springs Road is paved to the end and provides access to the popular Granite Tors Trail (15 miles – good long dayhike loop). Chena Dome makes for a good high country semi-loop. Angel Rocks is popular, but kinda boring. The extensive trail and cabin system in the White Mountains is called winter-only for a reason. Avoid in summer, except for the Wickersham Dome / Summit Trail which keeps to a high, scenic ridge and isn’t as boggy or buggy as the other trails. The drive from Fairbanks through Delta, towards the mountains is actually really pleasant, winding along the Tanana River, at the base of dry sunny bluffs, unexpectedly covered with sagebrush, juniper, and rosebushes. Late evening light along here showcases the interior at its best. There’s not a lot of marked hiking in the Deltana region, but the quick scramble up Big D Bluff at the confluence of the Delta and Tanana Rivers is highly recommended for the view. Continuing south, the Highway along the Delta River, through the Alaska Range is one of the top 5 scenic drives in the state, but gets very little attention and I honestly can’t figure out why. It’s a long way from any major population center and doesn’t have any visitor facilities, but that should be attracting a different sort of visitor. A feature story in Backpacker Magazine (Castner Glacier) surprised the crap out of me recently, so maybe the tide is turning for this area, but I’m really trying to get the word out because the place is at risk of being overrun by resource extraction and motorized users. My big project for next summer is to produce a small guidebook, and put in some roadside signage and route markers. I might even have funding for it from work, so things are going to change here soon if I have anything to say about it. As far as hiking is concerned, I give lots of details in the trip reports section, but I’ll say generally that there are no official trails, only several routes that quickly get through the brush to incredible high country, if you’re willing to be a little adventurous. Most of the best accessible intermediate glacier mountaineering in the state is here too. I’ve decided to put the unpaved McCarthy Road in this itinerary in order to even out the other long trips. Since you’re probably driving a standard rental car, you’ll want to get on a shuttle in Glennallen or in Chitina, where the pavement ends. Usually this would really bug me, but in this case the main attractions are at the end of the road anyway and there’s not a whole lot to explore along the way. Because of the hassle getting out here, you’ll want to spend at least a couple nights. Dayhiking up the Root Glacier, to any of the three old mines is recommended. Or you can go on a more adventuresome trip across the Root, scramble up Donahoe Peak, or explore the glacial country beyond. Don’t skip McCarthy, which is as authentic as inhabited ghost towns get. The drive over Thompson Pass and into Valdez would get a lot of votes as the most scenic highway route in the state – if it’s not raining… This area is notorious for getting some of the worst weather you can imagine, and the mountain slopes almost entirely covered with slide alder attest to the enormous snow loads and avalanche conditions here in winter, as well as frequent high winds year round. Although this is supposedly a northwest rainforest ecosystem, it feels more like the subalpine, even right next to the water. Considering the incredible roadside scenery, Valdez has few trails, though this can be explained by the conditions of geography and climate. One trail worth checking out though heads towards Shoup Glacier from the far end of town. Around Thompson Pass, you’re high enough to avoid the heavy brush, so this is a great spot for cross country hiking in calm weather. You can head straight up the rocky ridge to the east of the pass, or drive down to Blueberry Lake and sidehill across meadows (and a little brush) to a bunch of small lakes below Mt. Dimond. Lots of options, but getting up high anywhere will reveal the most heavily glaciated region in North America. Like Wrangell-St. Elias, getting to Cordova is a bit of a hassle. It requires a relatively short ferry trip from Valdez (or Whittier), but from all accounts is very well worth it. I haven’t been out there yet but it’s at the very top of my to-do list next summer. You can take your car on the ferry, but Cordova itself is walkable, and most of the spectacular Copper River Highway is gravel, so you’ll probably want to save the money on the ferry, and spend it on transport when you get to Cordova. Unlike Valdez, Cordova has a surprising wealth of hiking trails, though they tend to be very muddy. Locals wear XtraTuffs (quality rubber boots) for hiking. The best high country hikes include the Mt. Eyak – Crater Lake – Power Creek loop, Heney Range, high country above Sheridan Glacier, and the short hike out to Saddlebag Lake. The scenery around Million Dollar Bridge and Childs Glacier at the end of the road is extraordinary (see a calving glacier from a roadside pullout!), but I’m not aware of any substantial hiking trails out there. I’ll be poking around trying to find ways into the high country sometime next summer. Return to Anchorage via the Glenn Highway. 2. Interior Alaska backroads.
Interior Alaska Backroads
Interior Alaska Backroads
After living up here for a few years, I’ve come to the conclusion that exploring the remote gravel backroads of interior Alaska and the Yukon offers one of the most unique and spectacular experiences available on the road system, especially in the fall when the tundra suddenly explodes with color for a week or so, then the boreal forest does the same for the couple weeks after that. This itinerary’s so far down on the list however because driving these roads is a real hassle for visitors. It’s not so much that the backroads are really that terrible; for the most part they’re easier driving than all but the most meticulously maintained forest service roads in the pacific northwest. It’s the sheer distances involved that raise the likelihood of encountering problems along the way. The trips I’m recommending add up to a minimum of 1,000 miles of driving on gravel roads (or in a couple cases, very rough pavement). Unfortunately, but with good reason, most rental car companies don’t allow you to drive on these long gravel highways (short gravel access roads are kindof a gray area). There are agencies in Anchorage and Fairbanks who specifically allow it, and trick out their vehicles for it too, but these seemed quite expensive to me. So your options are to drive your own rig up the Alcan to start this itinerary, lay down the cash for the special rental, or take the risk with a standard rental, being prepared to pay out of pocket for any vehicle damage. No matter how you do it, DO NOT set out with wimpy stock tires. Trust me. Most travel guides recommend two full size spares on rims, but I’m all for a single spare, plus a patch kit, a cheap portable cigarette lighter air pump, and a couple cans of fix-a-flat. Then again, I once experienced three flats within 12 hours on the Denali Highway. Don’t forget this is an adventure! Anyway, enough disclaimer. For this itinerary, you’ll want to fly into Fairbanks. Roads shoot off in all directions into the barely known, vast interior from this edge of western civilization, and if you’re visiting in summer, it’s best to start on shorter roads like the Steese Highway. The summer season also offers up the real midnight sun, up the Dalton Highway beyond the arctic circle. I strongly recommend doing this itinerary in the fall however, due to changing colors, far fewer bugs, less chance of forest fire smoke, and because fall weather in the interior and arctic is much clearer than on the coast, where this season is notoriously wet. Be prepared for very chilly mornings though! Driving the Dalton Highway is one of only a handful of roads I know of that can qualify as a true wilderness journey, requiring the same level of preparation as a multi-day hiking trip. In the 450 miles beyond the outskirts of Fairbanks, there are no real towns, only 3 service stations, and about as many other small businesses (we’re talking hand painted, plywood signs here, open when we feel like it). The initial drive to Coldfoot is long, rough, and actually quite monotonous, as the road winds endlessly through the scruffy fire scarred rolling hills and wetlands that make up most of the interior (and most of Alaska, really). The enormous Yukon River, pleasant Grayling Lake, and nice high country around Finger Mountain and Gobblers Knob provide a welcome excuse to get out and stretch legs. Though the Dalton is indeed a rough drive, its condition varies widely, not just simply getting worse from beginning to end. The first 20 miles of gravel are actually one of the worst sections, and significant portions way out the road are even paved. The couple sections paved in the last few years are even up to highway standards. Coldfoot is an ugly truck stop, but it does have a surprisingly nice visitors center which provides information for regional protected areas under several different agencies. There is an official campground just beyond Coldfoot, and it’s actually pretty nice, with a little hiking trail to a waterfall, but paying for a campsite out here seems absolutely ridiculous… Don’t miss the community of Wiseman, which is basically a ghost town, though about a dozen people happen to live there. Beyond Wiseman, the scenery finally starts to reward your patience, with the vertical limestone of Sukakpak Mountain popping out of nowhere. Supposedly the Brooks Range is geologically related to the Rocky Mountains, and it’s really quite apparent, as these valleys at the far northern extent of the boreal forest could be mistaken for somewhere in the front ranges near Banff or Jasper. The transition from interior vegetation to the arctic is jarringly abrupt, as the road climbs briefly to a tundra plateau called Chandalar Shelf, then climbs very steeply again into an austere world of crumbled rock and soaring mountains, finally crossing over the tiny, steep notch called Atigun Pass, the highest road in the state. Surprisingly, the pass is one of the few spots in these mountains that’s not great to begin a hike, since the surrounding terrain is so steep and rubbly, and you’re already far above any substantial vegetation. The road drops just as steeply as it climbed, down into a characteristically flat bottomed tundra valley which widens out to reveal a whole new arctic world. There is good camping at Galbraith Lake and at pullouts near Toolik Lake, where the Dalton exits the mountains and the expansive, almost shire-like folds of the north slope open to the horizon. As interesting as all this is, I recommend turning around here because it really doesn’t change much in the 125 miles to Deadhorse and Prudhoe Bay. The Arctic coast is flat, boggy, and full of industrial development, so I don’t see much attraction in going there, aside from the possibility of seeing wild Muskoxen, one of the most bizarre and resilient animals in the north. Ok, I’ve talked too much, but this area really did leave an impression on me. As far as hiking is concerned, there aren’t really any trails, but the small stands of dry scattered spruce are open, brush and tussock bogs are usually easy enough to avoid if you know where to look, most streams are clear and fordable, so the ease of cross country access over a vast area is a big selling point for the region. If you really want suggestions, I’ve been up Sukakpak and James Dalton Mountains, and enjoyed both immensely. The prominent snowy mountain up-valley from the Grayling Lake Campground looks like a good overnight or epic dayhike. Anyone who’s read Bob Marshall will be interested to learn that his Upper Koyokuk country can be accessed by the adventurous from the Dalton as well. This is Shangri La for packrafting enthusiasts, with the trip down the North Fork Koyokuk past Mt. Doonerak and through “The Gates” being the most iconic option. After returning to Fairbanks, drive down the Parks Highway, past Denali Park, to the little town of Cantwell, and get on the Denali Highway from the west end (not to be confused with the Denali Park Road). Many long time Alaska residents consider the Denali Highway the most spectacular drive in the state, with views that have a way of emphasizing the empty vastness of this place. Most of the 140 mile long road is up on the tundra, with the always snowy Alaska Range in the near distance, providing context as you slowly pass by huge, prominent peaks like Mt. Deborah, Hess, Hayes, and Moffit. I’d highly recommend trying to hit this road right at the end of August, when the fall colors are beginning to peak and the area isn’t yet overrun by hunters (moose season starts Sept. 1st). Unfortunately for people focused on hiking, most of the beauty here lies in distant horizons, with the close at hand being mostly just shrubby, rolling tundra. There are lots of trails here, but these are primarily for motorized users, and aren’t particularly well marked. The best hiking opportunities are in the Clearwater and Amphitheater Mountains. For the Clearwaters, you’ll want to find a pull off near the eastern end of the range, about 66 miles from Cantwell, and simply get up onto the ridges through some light brush down low. For the Amphitheaters, you’ll have to put in 2-3 miles on the jeep roads to Glacier Lake or Landmark Gap Lake. From the lakes, pick out the least brushy route up onto the high ridges, much like the Clearwaters. Your next stop is the Nabesna Road, along the northern edge of Wrangell-St. Elias National Park. The best way to get there is to take the Richardson south to Gakona, then the Tok Cutoff (Glenn Highway) to Slana. This place really is the middle of nowhere, with much less use even than the road to McCarthy, and probably even the Dalton. Given that the place doesn’t get a whole lot of press, the unheralded beauty back there really left an impression on me. For much of the road, the icy Wrangell volcanoes rise up out of lowland tussocky tundra and spruce stands, then the route enters a more confined mountain valley, with the Mentasta Mountains on the left and an old, steeply eroded volcano close by on the right. Somewhat to my surprise, there are several signed hiking trails here, probably some of the least used anywhere… The trails aren’t great, and require a map and some knowledge of the route, but they still help out immensely. Skookum Volcano makes an incredible day hike. Trails along Lost and Trail Creeks give access to high country where a loop can be completed over a trailless pass under Noyes Mountain. Travel north through Tok to the Taylor Highway and Chicken. The town of Eagle has had it rough the last few years, suffering from a terrible Yukon River breakup flood in 2008, and from the road being badly washed out by heavy rains last summer. This is a state highway though and they’re committed to keeping it open. The town is worth a visit for its sense of being totally detached from the modern world, shown by its historic structures, and more significantly by the lifestyles of its residents. Some hiking is available in this region, along the Taylor at Fairview Mountain (before Chicken), cross country from American Summit, before dropping into Eagle, and south of the road, just inside the Yukon, but the hikes are not really the highlight of the area. The US border station here might be the most remote in the country, sitting in the tundra on a high ridge, by a gravel road, just past the old ghost town of Boundary. Tumbleweeds and gunslingers wouldn’t seem out of place here. Past the border, the Top of the World Highway lives up to its name as it winds along a ridge and eventually drops dramatically down to the bluffs of the Yukon, with Dawson City appearing as if straight out of northern myth on the far side of the unbridged river. If you spend much time on Yukon backroads, you’ll find that small car ferries across the large rivers are common, and it’s just such a ride which swings you across the swift, silty Yukon and provides a grand entrance into the quintessential gold rush town of Dawson. Of all the gold rush oriented destinations in the north, Dawson is my favorite, combining an appropriate level of restoration and a sizeable town with real people which is a more enjoyable place to hang out than Skagway or Fairbanks, which represent the other two extremes. Downtown Dawson has dirt streets and wooden sidewalks, and the surrounding country is really nice dry rolling mountains covered in mature stands of spruce and aspen. I’ll put it this way: Winthrop is to Dawson as Leavenworth is to Bavaria. The best hiking in the region is located up the Dempster Highway, up in the mountains of Tombstone Territorial Park. When I went out this way for a long weekend, this region was pretty much a big blank on the map for me, so the jagged granite spires and expansive arctic tundra of Tombstone really blew me away. This is another one of those places where there are signed trailheads and information available, but it’s mostly just to get you started. The best backpacking is over among the main peaks, in the general vicinity of Grizzly Lake, but there are also shorter dayhikes like Goldensides, closer to the highway. Though I’ve heard it talked about very little, the Dempster Highway continues for hundreds of miles through total wilderness, through mountain ranges, across rivers of continental importance like the Mackenzie, to the town of Inuvik in Northwest Territories, the main hub of the western Canadian arctic. I wouldn’t cancel any other portion of this itinerary to drive the Dempster, but it makes a very, very worthwhile addition if you’ve got the time and can take another 750 miles (round trip) of gravel road… Beyond Tombstone, there’s certainly cross country hiking to be done in several places, but nothing like the magnitude of the Brooks Range along the Dalton Highway in Alaska. One more highway out of Fairbanks that’s worth visiting is the Steese. The drive starts out pleasant but not spectacular, as the road crosses a minor pass, then heads through mining debris and partly burnt forest along the Chatanika River. Before the pavement even ends, there’s a turn off onto US Creek Road. This gravel road climbs over a scenic ridge and accesses the Nome Creek Valley, a beautiful but little used recreation area, off the radar even for many residents of Fairbanks. The Mt. Prindle Trail back here (barely a trail, consult the guide and a map) accesses one of the most spectacular alpine regions in the interior, steep enough to offer excellent rock climbing too. Continuing out the Steese, wide open tundra passes at Twelvemile and Eagle Summits provide incredible views and access to a large area of high ridge country. Most notably, the Pinnell Mountain National Recreation Trail (25 miles or so) parallels the road between the two passes. This is probably the most spectacular and recommendable trail in interior Alaska. Just out of the mountains lies the tiny town of Central. There’s not much here (even the roadhouse was closed the last couple times I was there), but I just really like the place for some reason. Authentic Alaska to the bone. 3. Fly-in Backcountry Trips.
Bush Trips
Bush Trips
For many people, squeezing into a small, noisy prop plane and flying off into “the bush” is what Alaska’s all about. There’s no feeling in the world like the silence that grows as you stand on the tundra watching your Supercub buzz slowly off to the horizon. I think a lot of visitors ignore this opportunity though because they assume it’s prohibitively expensive, or unsafe, or just too far outside their previous experience to give it much though. There are two different types of bush trips. Of most interest to hikers are the (usually) short charter flights in very small planes into the backcountry, landing on remote undeveloped airstrips, gravel bars, lakes, glaciers, and even tundra ridges. The best general regions for these sorts of trips are Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, Lake Clark National Park, Gates of the Arctic National Park, Denali National Park and the rest of the high Alaska Range. Each of these areas have nearby established flying services with highly experienced pilots who know the country as well as anyone can, and who are accustomed to the needs of backpackers and climbers, as well as rafters, hunters, miners, and sightseers. As a general rule, long cross country traverses are located in interior mountain environments because bad flying weather and the close proximity of brush, glaciers, and large streams make the coastal ranges much more difficult to deal with. The other type of bush destinations in Alaska are scheduled flights to the small communities located far off the road system. Many are surprised that these flights into the wild are often on Boeing 737s or otherwise on relatively large, modern twin prop planes. In fact, there seem to be many misconceptions about Alaskan bush communities, including the stereotype that they all consist of nothing more than a cluster of tiny houses badly in need of a paint job. While it’s true that “the villages” roughly fit this description, and don’t offer much to visitors, there are also “hub towns,” which are much larger (3-6,000 people), provide all standard services, and have attractions for visitors. These towns are Barrow, Kotzebue, Nome, Bethel, Dillingham, Dutch Harbor, Kodiak, and Yakutat (the latter three are also on infrequent scheduled ferry runs). Nome, Kodiak, and the small village of Anaktuvuk Pass hold the most interest for hikers. Well, the only interest – Barrow, Kotzebue, and Bethel are all on flat tundra so swampy it can barely be called land, and Dutch Harbor is prohibitively expensive and/or time consuming to reach, though it is beautiful. I have an odd fascination with Yakutat, as it sits isolated among coastal mountain country of an enormous scale, but seems frustratingly cut off from that country as far as access is concerned. Generally speaking the other small village bush communities are an odd mix of 3rd world, traditional culture, subsistence, welfare state, and all connotations one might have of deeply rural places, negative and positive. More important for hikers, they tend to be located in flat lowlands or along the coast where fish and game are plentiful, but interesting walks are not. Anaktuvuk Pass is a glaring exception, located on the alpine tundra, right in the middle of Gates of the Arctic National Park, along a traditional Caribou migration Route.

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Ancient Ambler
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PostFri Jan 02, 2015 6:16 am 
Mega-awesome TRs, Mega-Will. I'll be spending a lot of time in the months to come reading your amazing narrative and enjoying your incredible photos. You've already given me plenty of ideas for new places to go when we visit our son, who's lived in AK for a number of years now. My wife, who lived in and near Eagle up on the Yukon and elsewhere in AK back in the 1960s and early '70s, will really enjoy your reports and photos, as well. Thanks for doing all the hard work it took to share your experiences and photos with us.

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RichP
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PostFri Jan 02, 2015 8:39 am 
Thanks for taking the time to post, Will. Great info for anybody who ventures to Alaska.

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Doppelganger





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PostFri Jan 02, 2015 9:43 am 

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meck
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meck
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PostFri Jan 02, 2015 12:47 pm 
WOW! Thanks for posting (and the extensive explanation of everything). Just perusing through some of your photos, and reading your story on how you ended up there, is a real treat.

*Just say NO to Rent-Seeking, don't give up the concept of "ownership"*
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JimK
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PostFri Jan 02, 2015 1:25 pm 
I'm guessing that Mega-Will used to be a Mega-Nerd.

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