[Dave Creeden]

The Vinson Massif is the highest mountain (16,050 feet) in Antarctica located in the Sentinel Range of the Ellsworth Mountains, lying at a latitude of little more than 78 degrees south. I signed up to climb Vinson with Mountain Madness and our group was led by an excellent guide Ossy F. from Quito, Ecuador.

Our guide Ossy F. relaxing at Union Glacier field camp. Photo courtesy of Ossy.

Although he is a very experienced guide, this would be his first attempt to climb Vinson, so it offer a personal reward for him to scale this mountain too. There was supposed to be three other clients besides myself. Urszula from Calgary, Alberta, Jean-Pierre (J. P.) from Holland, along with Tim from California. More on Tim's plight later. I left Sea-Tac on January 5th, a day earlier than necessary, with four check-in bags, two and half of which were full of group gear. A Mountain Madness employee Steve G. met me at the airport, with two of the bags, to ease my burden by assisting me with checking the bags onto my flight. I flew from Sea-Tac to Punta Arenas, Chile, with stopovers in LA, Lima and Santiago, spending a little over 30 hours in transit. From the Punta Arenas airport I took a 30 minute taxi ride to my hotel room located downtown, where I soon meet Ossy and transferred the group gear to him. Over the next 24 hours Urszula and J. P. arrived. However Ossy received a phone call from Tim, who was being detained by Chilean Customs & Immigration officials in Santiago. They had a person on their “Watch List” with same first and last name as Tim’s, who had committed some sort of financial crime in the country and officials were refusing to allow him to enter their country. Over the next several hours Ossy made several phone calls to somehow address the problem, which included phoning his wife, who had contacts in the Ecuadorian diplomatic corp. But to no avail, Tim was put on a flight back to the USA. One of the requirements of this very expensive trip is that each client purchase travel insurance, which included coverage for trip cancellation, trip delay and emergency evacuation. After I returned home from this trip, I stopped by the Mountain Madness office to return some group gear and learned that there is some sort of exclusion in the travel insurance policy and Tim would not be compensated for his trip being cancelled. Ouch! The team spent January 6-8 getting organized for our flight from Punta Arenas to Union Glacier, Antarctica along with seeing the sites of Punta Arenas.

These guys could play in Carlos Santana's percussion section.

Punta Arenas drum corp in action.

The logistics for traveling to and around Antarctica are handled by the company Antarctic Logistic and Expeditions (ALE). The company has an office in Punta Arenas and their headquarters is at Salt Lake City, Utah. ALE owns the company Adventure Network International (ANI), which provides guides services ranging from flights to the South Pole and expeditions up Mt. Vinson. ANI also marks the climbing route with flags and attaches the fixed lines to anchors on the headwall for the climb of Vinson. ALE operates a large field camp at Union Glacier from November to the end of January, which can accommodate up to 100 clients along with ALE staff. They operate a blue-ice runway about 5½ miles away from the field camp that allows a Russian jet cargo aircraft Ilyushin II-76 to land and takeoff. This aircraft was designed to cope with the worst weather conditions in Siberia. There is also a runway right next to the field camp in which Twin Otter and Basler BT-67 (retrofitted DC-3 with turboprop engines) ski planes can operated from. They use these aircraft to fly clients to the South Pole and climbers up to Vinson Base camp On the evening of the 8th all the climbing team members, people flying to the South Pole and people doing various other activities on the continent, attended a meeting at ALE’s office in town. There were a total of 42 clients flying to Union Glacier field camp. ALE briefed us about the flight along with the do’s and don’ts while on the continent. The key bit of info was that the flying conditions were within the parameters of the Ilyushin II-76, so it was all systems go for departure the next morning.

ALE's meteorologist giving us a weather briefing.

January 9th The clients were staying at numerous hotels around town, so in the morning ALE used three light trucks to go around to the hotels to collect baggage.

ALE staff weighing our baggage.

Truck in front of our hotel in Punta Arenas, loaded with group gear.

While the clients were transported to the airport in vans. The duration of the flight to Union Glacier was about 4 hours and 20 minutes, arriving around 12:30 PM.

Ilyushin II-76 Boarding Pass

Boarding the Ilyushin II-76 for our flight to Union Glacier.

Photo of the interior of the Ilyushin II-76, looking aft.

The Ilyushin had a large flat panel screen mounted above the flight officer’s station, so you could watch the flight’s progress on a map, along with a video feed of the flight via a cam mounted on the lower nose cone of the aircraft.

First Officer waiting for clearance to depart Punta Arenas.

Upon landing the aircraft, the Ilyushin does not immediately apply brakes, but uses its thrust reversers to gradually slow down instead. What a sleigh ride! Here is a video of the landing. http://dhcafrica.smugmug.com/DHCMtVinson/i-SR6VVJm

Disimbarking at Union Glacier.

Dave, Urszula and J.P. at blue ice runway at Union Glacier.

The clients hopped into especially designed 4 x 4 snow vehicles for the 5 ½ mile ride to the Union Glacier field camp, while our baggage came along on sleds towed by snow cats.

Our 4 x 4 rides from runway to Union Glacier field camp.

Snow cat hauling precious fuel at Union Glacier field camp. Photo by Ossy.

We had lunch in one of the large tents set up for clients. There was a box containing rubber stamps with various designs of Antarctica, the South Pole and Mt Vinson that tourists can use to stamp their passports if they wish. I found one for Antarctica that I liked and stamped my passport. I found a cool rubber stamp for Mt Vinson, but I didn’t stamp my passport. I would wait until after I climbed Vinson before I stamped my password. Ossy and J.P. stamped their Passports with the Vinson rubber stamp anyway and we teased each other about whether or not it was bad luck to do so. Around 3 PM the various climbing teams began flying into Vinson Base Camp on the two Twin Otters.

Union Glacier field camp, with baggage stacked up ready to be loaded.

Loading the Twin Otter, with the Basler BT-67 in background

At 4 PM our group flew on the Basler, which cannot land at Vinson Base Camp (7,000 feet). Here is a video of the takeoff in the Basler. http://dhcafrica.smugmug.com/DHCMtVinson/i-SnPZ6Rk After about a 30 minute flight we landed at an intermediate runway, then unloaded our gear.

Basler BT-67 at intermediate runway

Unloaded Basler BT-67 at intermediate runway, waiting for Twin Otter. Photo by Ossy.

After a short wait, the Twin Otters arrived and we reloaded our gear to complete the flight to Vinson Base Camp, arriving around 5:30 PM.

Loading up a Twin Otter at intermediate runaway for flight to Vinson Base Camp. Photo by Ossy.

Loading Twin Otter at intermediate runway

At 9:30 PM, Ossy attended a meeting of the guides called by ANI, to go over the coordination of the movement by all the climbing teams on the mountain. There were two especially large climbing groups on the mountain, ANI (18 people) and Alpine Ascents (About a dozen people). It was determined that the Mountain Madness group would leave around 2:30 PM.

One of our typical kitchens, at Vinson Base Camp. Photo by Ossy.

January 10th The obvious difference about climbing in Antarctica during this time of year, is that you don’t need to be concerned about darkness. However there are certain times of time that it is strongly recommend that you climb, because if weather is clear you will out of the shade, so it will be warmer. For example, Vinson Base Camp is in the shade from 3:00 to 5:00, so teams generally leave for Low Camp in the late morning or afternoon. At Low Camp, it is covered in shade from about 3:00 to 11:30, so teams leave camp around 13:00 to 14:00 hours. High Camp is in the shade from 23:00 to 8:00 hours, so teams generally leave for the summit after 8:00. Here is a map of the route.

Map of Mt. Vinson climbing route

Ossy’s plan was for us to move all our gear from Vinson Base Camp to Low Camp at 9,000 feet. Other groups planned to do a carry to Low Camp and then return to BC. We loaded our sleds with about half of our gear and the remainder we carried on our backpacks. We strapped on our crampons and roped up for the gradual ascend up the Branscomb Glacier, with the route taking a left turn after about 2 ½ miles. Another 3 miles across flat terrain led us to Low Camp. There were several crevasses on the inside corner of the glacier, along with a couple crevasses across the flagged route – but no show stoppers. There was steep rock cliffs partially covered with snow, along with seracs, on the right hand side of the route.

Ossy and Urszula getting sleds loaded a Vinson Base Camp, for ascent to Low Camp

Photo of the "barge" I was towing, looking down the Branscomb Glacier.

Another group descending Branscomb Glacier, after dumping load at Low Camp.

J.P., Urszula and Dave taking a break from hauling sleds on the Branscomb Glacier. Photo by Ossy.

Group hauling sleds up Branscomb Glacier to Low Camp. Photo by Ossy.

Here is a video taken at Low Camp. http://dhcafrica.smugmug.com/DHCMtVinson/i-Sfj8bDP January 11 The weather was clear and cold for this planned rest day, which gave us a chance to acclimatize. Due to the thinning of the atmosphere at Polar Regions the elevation feels higher (For example 9,000 feet, feels like 11,000 feet). Other climbing parties arrived during the day, including a large group from ANI.

Photo at Low Camp by Ossy.

Photo of Low Camp by Ossy.

January 12 The plan for this day was to do to a carry to High Camp at 12,400 feet. This involved ascending a series of fixed lined over 3,000 feet, up to 45 degrees. The weather was overcast with visibility less than half a mile, with no wind. We walked a little under 2 Km to the bottom of the headwall. In a way I felt it was fortunate that the visibility was poor, to you couldn’t see how far the monotonous ascend was that we jumared up. J. P. struggled up the headwall due to G.I. problems. Ossy was closely monitoring J.P. progress and about ¾ of the way up in a herculean display, he eased J.P.’s burden by grabbing his backpack and somehow carrying it on top of his own backpack to the top of the fixed lines. At the top of the headwall we took a break and discussed various options. I lobbied for some of us continuing with our load to High Camp. No sooner had I spoken these words, then J.P. vomited into a plastic bag – which settled the issue. We unloaded our backpacks and stashed our gear in plastic bags in the nearby rocks, then descended to Low Camp January 13 J. P. felt well enough to climb. So we broke camp and loaded up our backpacks for the grunt up the headwall. The weather had cleared so we had splendid views on our ascent up the fixed lines.

Moving from Low Camp towards the base of the headwall and fixed lines. Photo by Ossy.

Groups of climbers on the fixed lines of the headwall.

J.P. and Urszula at the bottom of the fixed lines.

A rest stop amongst the rocks, about half way up the headwall. Low Camp in middle ground.

Urszula and Ossy getting something to eat at the rest stop amongst the rocks.

Urszula (L), J.P. (M), and Dave (R) taking a break amongst the rocks, half way up the headwall. Photo by Ossy.

Climbers reaching the top of the fixed lines.

There was a moderate breeze which kept me from overheating. At the top of the headwall we jammed the gear we stashed the previous day into and onto our already full packs. We then trudged the remaining distance to High Camp.

Group takes break on approach to High Camp. Mt. Shinn in background. Photo by Ossy.

We had great views of Mt Shinn along with other peaks, but the actual summit of Vinson was not within line of sight from High Camp.

Mt. Shinn along the way between the top of the headwall and High Camp.

Mt. Shinn from High Camp

By the end of the day there was a horde of climbers in position for an attempt on the summit. January 14th This was a planned rest day to get ready for our push for the summit the next day. A group of four Austrian climbers left for the summit a little before 11 AM. The weather was partially overcast, so the views were poor. ALE provides twice daily weather cast info for the guides, at noon and 7 PM. Ossy listened attentively to the 7 PM forecast which sounded promising. January 15th Ossy got up first around 7 AM to visually check the weather. Just being in the tent, I could notice that there was little or no breeze and I could see the sun shining on the rainfly of the tent, so I felt optimistic that we would go. We got a thumbs up from Ossy shortly thereafter, so we got up had a quick meal and packed for the summit. We roped up together and left around 9 AM and reached the summit around 2:30 PM.

Group just departing High Camp for summit. Photo by Ossy.

Group just leaving High Camp for the summit. Photo by Ossy.

Group about half way to the summit. In background, left to right: Mt. Gardner, Mt. Epperly and Mt. Shinn. Photo by Ossy.

The route was pretty straight forward, with short section of rock scrambling along the ridgeline to the top. Later I learned that 32 people reached the summit on this day, which set a new record. I overheard someone state that the temperature on top was -30 degrees F. There was an occasional 10 to 15 mph breeze.

Dave (L), Urszula (M) and J.P. (R) on summit. Photo by Ossy.

Pano shot of group on summit. Photo by Ossy.

Selfie of Ossy, with group on summit. Photo by Ossy.

Left to right: Ossy, Urszula, J.P. and Dave on summit. Photo courtesy of Ossy.

Pano shot from summit towards Mt. Shinn. Photo by Ossy.

Franklin Bradshaw - January 18, 2014 - RIP

Here is video taken from the summit, panning clockwise from north to south. http://dhcafrica.smugmug.com/DHCMtVinson/i-Mf5tLS7 Here is a video taken from the summit, panning from clockwise from south to north. http://dhcafrica.smugmug.com/DHCMtVinson/i-GLzNm8Z On the way down, we stopped for a break. I happened to be first in line on the rope and after I dropped my backpack I turned around I saw Ossy was standing right next to me with a big grin on his face and holding up his right arm waiting for me to give him a high five. I swung my right arm back into a big wind up and gave him an enthusiast high five followed by a warm embrace. This climb was special for our guide Ossy too, for this was his first ascend of Vinson. Once we arrived back at High Camp, Urszula walked up to me to give me a big hug and I told her how happy and proud I was for her to have reached the summit. January 16 I slept long and well. Before we left High Camp, here is a video taken from the nearby ridgeline, looking down on the approach route up the Branscomb Glacier. http://dhcafrica.smugmug.com/DHCMtVinson/i-7wD5L7J We left High Camp around mid-day with huge loads for the descent of the headwall. We reached Low Camp around mid-afternoon, where we took a long break to eat, drink and to reload some of our gear onto sleds.

Basking in the warmth of the sun at our kitchen, before heading down to Vinson Base Camp. Photo by Ossy.

Getting ready to depart Low Camp for Vinson Base Camp.

Group heading down Branscomb Glacier, with sleds in tow. Photo by Ossy.

Seracs between Vinson Base Camp and Low Camp.

Mt. Gardner (L), Mt. Epperly (M) and Mt. Shinn (R) from low on the Branscomb Glacier

Then we completed our journey down the Branscomb Glacier to Vinson Base Camp. It was worth the effort to go all the way to Vinson Base Camp, so we didn’t have to set and break down camp at Low Camp. January 17 The order in which climbing groups arrived at Vinson Base Camp, basically determined the order in which people flew out to Union Glacier field camp. Several parties began flying out by Twin Otter in the late morning and early afternoon.

Vinson Base Camp

Climbers waiting to board Twin Otter at Vinson Base Camp

Seracs near Vinson Base Camp

View up Branscom Glacier from Vinson Base Camp. Summit of Mt. Vinson is center-right.

Summit of Mt. Vinson from Vinson Base Camp

Welcome sign at Vinson Base Camp

Here is a video of a Twin Otter landing at Vinson Base Camp. http://dhcafrica.smugmug.com/DHCMtVinson/i-FNDQjmN Here is a video of a Twin Otter taking off from Vinson Base Camp. http://dhcafrica.smugmug.com/DHCMtVinson/i-gF4cDSB Our turn arrived around 5 PM. We had fantastic views on our flight to Union Glacier, arriving in time for a wonderful meal. Here are a series of videos taken on the return flight. http://dhcafrica.smugmug.com/DHCMtVinson/i-4Fm6JKm http://dhcafrica.smugmug.com/DHCMtVinson/i-vCppHcR http://dhcafrica.smugmug.com/DHCMtVinson/i-c6pXT6j http://dhcafrica.smugmug.com/DHCMtVinson/i-2kS3S2J I also stamped my passport with the Mt Vinson stamp!

Passport with the Antarctica rubber stamps!

January 18-21 It was very windy overnight on the 18th, with the vestibules of our tent being filled by wind driven snow. The next scheduled flight by the Ilyushin to Punta Arenas was scheduled for the 20th. The high winds and cold temperatures continued through the 20th, preventing us from departing as hoped. I spent time reading, listening to music and attending twice daily presentations by Adam of the ALE staff about various polar explorers. The weather broke clear and calm on the morning of the 21st, which to everyone’s joy allowed us to fly to Punta Arenas arriving in town around 8 PM.

Loading gear at Union Glacier field camp for departure to blue-ice runway

Snowcat in position to haul baggage to blue-ice runway.

Left to right: Dave, Urszula, J.P. and Ossy at blue-ice runway prior to departure for Punta Arenas. Photo courtesy of Ossy.

At blue-ice runway waiting for departure to Punta Arenas in Ilyushin II-76

Ilyushin II-76 interior looking aft, on flight to Punta Arenas

Here is a video of the Ilyushin taking off from Union Glacier. http://dhcafrica.smugmug.com/DHCMtVinson/i-F7k6L5X January 22-25 Spent part of the morning of the 22nd at the LAN Chile office re-booking my flights home, with my departure being early on the 24th. The return flight was not as efficient as my flight down, as I was in transit over 40 hours. Thus ended an incredible trip to Antarctica, which included awesome sights and the chance to meet numerous people from all over the world.

[Redwic]

Awesome, Dave! This is like one of those "Bucket List" peakbagging things that relatively few people actually get the opportunity to experience. Thank you for sharing.

[Voxxjin]

Quit being a tease and load the photos! Edit: Thanks for loading the pics! Looks like it was quite an adventure.

[RichP]

I was also detained by Chilean police in the airport in Santiago for the same reason. Someone with my same name had committed some crime in the same town I was headed for. It took them a while to figure out that I wasn't that person, but believe me I was sweating bullets.

[Chico]

Poor Tim. RMI Expedition deposit is $5000. Total cost $39000. Mountain Madness looks like it is more from what I can tell. Yeah, this is one of those "bucket list" items. Bring on the photos!

[Chico]

[seawallrunner]

Wow !! Do you have pix from inside the russian plane? Wondering how comfy it was.

[fourteen410]

This has to be the coolest trip report I have ever seen. Bravo!! I'd love to go to Antarctica some day. Thank you for sharing

[Tom_Sjolseth]

I'll have to pick your brain about this at some point, Dave. It's on my bucket list for sure. Your life after retirement is inspiring, keep on enjoying life! Thanks for sharing your summit shot with Franklin. He is missed.

[hikerman]

Awesome adventure! Curious on the weather conditions. Would you say that was normal or above average conditions? Looks like a relatively great window from the pics.

[Paul M]

Awesome trip Dave! Definitely a bucket list objective.

[Jaberwock]

Welcome to Union Glacier from Studiocanoe on Vimeo.

[Magellan]

Great way to celebrate Franklin's life. Wonderful story and photos.

[iron]

[Joey]

Gotta have a map with such a great TR. Vinson is at the center of the map. Zoom in and the name will appear. If you change the basemap to "Google Earth (plugin)" then you can fly around in smooth 3D. View larger size in new window