Previous :: Next Topic |
Author |
Message |
Eric Gilbertson Member
Joined: 04 Jul 2018 Posts: 188 | TRs | Pics Location: Seattle |
57 miles, 13,000ft gain
October 6, 2018, 2:50am – 11:10pm
New Bulgers Fastest Known Time: 1 year 1 month 15 days 20 hours 29 minutes (assuming repeat ascents are allowed)
I’d been waiting to climb Reynolds Peak since I got back to the US in late August, but unfortunately Reynolds had been closed on all sides by the Crescent Mountain Fire while I’d been away. I’d already climbed Reynolds Peak in June 2017, and had already finished climbing all the Bulgers by late August 2018. However, I noticed that if I just re-climbed a few dozen of them I could get a completion time of close to one year.
As far as I had researched, the fastest known time to climb all the Bulgers was 4 years 3 months, by Franklin Bradshaw.
Finally in the end of September a new closure order was issued that opened up Reynolds Peak, sort of. The area above treeline to the east of Reynolds was open, but the area below treeline was still closed. The standard approach to Reynolds Peak is from the east, and it is normally a straightforward 12-mile round trip hike with a little bit of bushwhacking and scrambling. Most people do it as a day trip. However, this area was still actively burning and definitely closed.
The area to the west of Reynolds peak, in the Lake Chelan National Recreation Area, was completely reopened though. If I could just approach Reynolds from the west side I could climb it completely legally. It would not be easy, though. I would either have to take a ferry to Stehekin and then have a ~20-mile round trip hike plus bushwhack/scramble up the non-standard west side of Reynolds, or I could do a 57-mile round trip hike from the Bridge Creek trailhead off highway 20.
The ambitious route Views down towards Lake Chelan from the Rainbow Creek Trail The bear prowling around Bench Creek
By early October Reynolds was the last remaining peak on my Bulgers clock-reset list. I was limited to weekends since the school year had just started, and it looked like Saturday was the best weather window. To capitalize on this window, and to finish off my project with a big final trip, I decided to day hike Reynolds from highway 20. It would essentially be hiking/running two marathons and a 10k in a day, with 13,000ft elevation gain and some bushwhacking and scrambling thrown in for good measure. And it looked like snowline was down to 7,000ft, meaning the top half of the route would be snow covered. That sounded like a fun challenge.
I left town Friday evening after work, fighting rush hour gridlock to get to the Bridge Creek trailhead near Rainy Pass on Highway 20 by 9:45pm. It was snowing lightly, and I hoped the precipitation would end soon as forecast. I knew the trip the next day would be long, but I wanted to get back to the car before midnight so all my steps on my fitbit would count for the same day. I also wanted to get enough sleep to not be slowed down by sleep deprivation. My compromise was to get 4.5 hours of sleep.
I was asleep by 10pm, and up at 2:30am. Luckily the snow had stopped by then and the sky above was full of stars. I scarfed down a blueberry muffin, banana, and two pastries I’d bought at the Shell station at exit 208 on the way up, and was starting my hike by 2:45am.
It was a tough call what gear to bring. I wanted to go as light as possible, but also wanted to be prepared for deep snow. In the end I decided against the hiking boots and crampons and just went in my trail runners with microspikes and mini-gaiters in the pack. This would allow me to run sections of the trail more comfortably, though I may have trouble if the top of Reynolds was too snowy. This seemed like an ok risk, since about 50 miles of the trip would be on trail, and only 7 miles would be off trail and snow covered.
I got off to a bad start, going the wrong way on the PCT over a sketchy icy bridge, then coming back to highway 20. I then remembered I should bring some cash in case I needed to bail out to stehekin and take a ferry out, so I returned to the car to get a 20 dollar bill and credit card. Finally by 3am I was moving in the correct direction southbound on the PCT.
Before long I reached the junction with the Stiletto Spur Trail. My plan was to hike over McAlester Pass, and this trail paralleled the PCT but was 0.5 miles shorter. However, I’d read that it wasn’t maintained as much and was less popular. I opted to stick with the PCT to ensure I didn’t get slowed down by taking a wrong turn or crawling over too many logs in the dark.
At fireweed camp I turned onto the McAlester Lake trail and hiked up to McAlester Pass. Snow line started around 5,500ft, but it was only a dusting on the trail and I didn’t need microspikes. The sun finally rose as I was descending from the pass down the Rainbow Creek trail. I had great views of yellow and red foliage with snowcapped mountains in the distance. It looked like Tupshin had gotten a lot of snow on the north face.
First view of Lake Chelan The meadows on the west side of Reynolds The pass to cross over to the standard east side route
When I reached Bench Creek camp a big bear was standing on a fallen log watching me, and I took a few pictures. It eventually got scared, though, and took off into the woods. From the pass at 6,000ft I descended all the way down to 2,200 ft near Stehekin, and it was painful realizing that I would be reclimbing all of that on the return. I then turned off and started ascending the Boulder Creek trail. By 9am the sun came up from behind the mountains and I stopped for my first food break to put on sunscreen.
The trail up Boulder Creek was in good shape, and I ascended back up to snowline around 5,500ft. It was unfortunate having to walk through snow-covered meadows that got my feet soaked and cold, but this was the price I had to pay for the comfort of hiking in trail runners instead of big waterproof boots.
I reached Reynolds Camp around 11am, about 25 miles from the trailhead. From here on the route was less certain. Summitpost describes a third-class route up this side of Reynolds, and I read a report from Blake Herrington on CascadeClimbers from 2007 that it’s possible to go over a pass near here and connect with the standard east side route.
I hiked through the campsite, then bushwhacked through open woods, then dense woods, and eventually popped out in a meadow below Reynolds about 20 minutes later. I could not see any obvious 3rd class route through the cliffs on the west side of Reynolds, so I aimed for the pass described by Blake. It’s the pass just north of Camels Hump, between the “Chelan” and “CO” on the USFS quad.
There was luckily much less snow than I had feared. It was maybe an inch deep, and only in the shade of some larch trees or on the north sides of slopes. I hiked to the edge of the meadow, then easily hiked through class 2 tree-covered terrain to the pass. From the pass I traversed at the same height to the north, skirting some cliffs, to join up with the standard east side route up Reynolds.
I could see a lot of burned forest in the valley below, though it looked like nothing was actively on fire or smoking. Hopefully the snow has put out all the fire. The east side route up Reynolds was almost entirely snow-free because it faces southeast. I hiked up scree to the southeast face, then ditched my poles and scrambled the remaining 3rd class bit to the summit.
The summit, mostly snow free The view south from the summit towards Oval Peak My fitbit when I got back to the car. The 111,383 barely fits in the screen
I officially reached the summit at 12:51pm, meaning my Bulger completion time was 1 year 1 month 15 days 20 hours 29 minutes, spanning from August 20th 2017 (Sherpa Peak) to October 6, 2018 (assuming repeats are allow). I couldn’t find a register other than a rusty old can on the top, though it was snowy and could have been buried.
I rested for 20 minutes, taking in the view and trying to identify as many mountains as I could around me. Luckily it had been sunny all morning and I didn’t see any bad weather coming towards me. I did still have about 28 miles to go back to the car, so was soon on my way.
I retraced my route, scree surfing down whenever possible, and bushwhacked back to the trail by around 2:30pm. Once I got below snowline I switched into a dry pair of socks and began the long hike/jog back down. The thought crossed my mind to take a detour hike down to the Stehekin Bakery on the way, but that would unfortunately add about 4 miles to my day. It seemed like 57 miles was already plenty far to be hiking in one push, so I reluctantly skipped the bakery.
At the bottom of Boulder Creek I began the long ascent back up Rainbow Creek. I definitely like standard mountains where you go up on the ascent and down on the descent. I guess Reynolds Peak is such a mountain if you just climb it by the standard approach. By this time late in the day my energy level was oscillating with much higher frequency. It seemed like every hour I would be zapped and need a food break, while earlier in the day I had gone about 6 hours (2:45am- 8:45am) between breaks.
By sunset I was back to McAlester Pass, and the snow had melted so the trail was no longer slippery. I stopped at a stream near McAlester Lake to fill up my 7th liter of water for the day, and continued down the trail to the PCT. Finally, by just after 11pm I reached the car back at Bridge Creek. My feet were in tough shape from blisters, and I was glad to be able to just jump inside and go to sleep.
For the day my GPS officially registered 57 miles and 13,000ft elevation gain for the trip, and my fitbit recorded 111,399 steps. I drove back to Seattle Sunday morning and celebrated with an Indian Buffet lunch with Katie.
Link to full trip report and more pictures: http://www.countryhighpoints.com/reynolds-peak-the-back-way/
Some interesting stats for my Bulgers project:
Completion time: 1 year 1 month 15 days 20 hours 29 minutes (Aug 20, 2017 - Oct 6, 2018)
Best year: 2018 (78)
Best 1-year period: Oct 7 2017 - Oct 6 2018 (85)
Best month: July 2018 (29)
Best day: July 1, 2018 (6)
Winter ascents: 11 (2 FWAs, 1 SWA)
Solos: 68
50+ mile days: 3
40-49 mile days: 2
30-39 mile days: 4
Packraft-assisted ascents: 11
Mountain-bike assisted ascents: 16
Cumulative Bulger ascents: 149 ( 40 repeats, 7 3-peats, 2 4-peats)
|
Back to top |
|
|
iron Member
Joined: 10 Aug 2008 Posts: 6391 | TRs | Pics Location: southeast kootenays |
|
iron
Member
|
Sun Oct 07, 2018 7:58 pm
|
|
|
i don't see anyone topping this feat, at least not for many years.
franklin's FKT were all unique summits, no repeats. so, the powers that be may have something to say about the record. but, what you've done is damn near as hardcore as it gets. must be awesome to have a body that holds up to that kind of mileage.
|
Back to top |
|
|
Matt Lemke High on the Outdoors
Joined: 15 Jul 2010 Posts: 2052 | TRs | Pics Location: Grand Junction |
|
Matt Lemke
High on the Outdoors
|
Sun Oct 07, 2018 8:11 pm
|
|
|
If I was doing that I would say f### it and do it illegally. That's a lot of miles!
Congrats on this amazing feat! It's interesting you finished your goal the same day I finished the list.
|
Back to top |
|
|
Jake Robinson Member
Joined: 02 Aug 2016 Posts: 521 | TRs | Pics
|
Congratulations Eric! What you've done this year is truly remarkable. And what a way to finish it off. I seriously cannot fathom the mental toughness and determination it must take to do a 60 mile, 13k gain solo day trip, complete with bushwhacking, to repeat Reynolds Peak.
|
Back to top |
|
|
Perry Member
Joined: 09 Aug 2007 Posts: 158 | TRs | Pics Location: Mount Vernon |
|
Perry
Member
|
Sun Oct 07, 2018 8:16 pm
|
|
|
Wow!
"The trail up Boulder Creek was in good shape, and I ascended back up to snowline around 5,500ft. It was unfortunate having to walk through snow-covered meadows that got my feet soaked and cold, but this was the price I had to pay for the comfort of hiking in trail runners instead of big waterproof boots."
Have you looked at the Altera Lone Peak RSM shoes? They have several versions. Lone Peak 4 Mid RSM is like a over the ankle tail runner but water proofed with eVent fabric. So far, my experience with them had been good.
|
Back to top |
|
|
awilsondc Member
Joined: 03 Apr 2016 Posts: 1323 | TRs | Pics
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
Nancyann Member
Joined: 28 Jul 2013 Posts: 2314 | TRs | Pics Location: Sultan Basin |
|
Nancyann
Member
|
Sun Oct 07, 2018 8:40 pm
|
|
|
Congratulations, Eric, what an amazing accomplishment!
|
Back to top |
|
|
Gimpilator infinity/21M
Joined: 12 Oct 2006 Posts: 1684 | TRs | Pics Location: Edmonds, WA |
As with many of your other trips, I look at the stats and it's baffling. To put down substantial mileage with speed on a trail is one thing, but to do it off-trail is completely another.
If you hadn't done some of these speedy trips, and I heard it proposed as an idea, I'd say it couldn't be done. Not humanly possible. I think it's fair to say that you're just as fit as guys like Leor Pantilat and Sean O'Rourke. Amazing. Do you use a training program?
It's an interesting idea for a project. Any word on whether it will be accepted officially? Doesn't really matter, because you did it and that's what counts.
|
Back to top |
|
|
Brushbuffalo Member
Joined: 17 Sep 2015 Posts: 1887 | TRs | Pics Location: there earlier, here now, somewhere later... Bellingham in between |
Eric Gilbertson wrote: | set a record that would be hard to beat. |
That's an understatement if ever there was one!
I still think you are going to climb all named summits in the entire world ( in a FKT.)
[quote="Eric Gilbertson"]late in the day my energy level was oscillating with much higher frequency. It seemed like every hour I would be zapped and need a food break[/quote
You would make a great ultrarunner.
Oh wait, you are!
Passing rocks and trees like they were standing still
Passing rocks and trees like they were standing still
|
Back to top |
|
|
Stuke Sowle Member
Joined: 23 Sep 2016 Posts: 21 | TRs | Pics Location: Issaquah, WA |
Absolutely incredible! Congrats on this accomplishment!
After doing 16 Bulgers in a five week span in 2016, I mentioned to a few friends that I felt like someone could pull the list off in a year. They laughed at me. Your accomplishment proves that it isn't so far fetched an idea.
Really amazing stuff!
|
Back to top |
|
|
PeakJunkie Member
Joined: 14 Feb 2009 Posts: 22 | TRs | Pics
|
Awesome, the repeat thing is a non issue. You did all the Bulger peaks in the time you specified. Nothing can change that! And what a flourish for the finish. Congratulations from number 22 on the list...
|
Back to top |
|
|
Eric Gilbertson Member
Joined: 04 Jul 2018 Posts: 188 | TRs | Pics Location: Seattle |
Thanks!
I do definitely think there is room for improvement of my time. If someone is trying to beat the 1 year mark I would recommend:
- Prioritize the Bulgers for the summer instead of other mountaineering trips. I also climbed Fairweather in June and spent 3 weeks climbing in Africa/Saudi Arabia in August, and was working part time, so missed out on a lot of prime mountaineering season here in WA.
- Plan ahead. I decided to do them fast after I was about 50 mountains in. So my itinerary is definitely not the most efficient, working around that constraint of trying not to redo too many.
- Do them with a partner who is also trying to do them all on the same schedule. I ended up soloing a lot of mountains so I could be on my own schedule, but some aren't very safe to solo, and many are hard to find partners for.
- Get the ones east of the crest before August when fire season starts. A 12-mile trip up Reynolds is a lot more efficient than a 57-mile trip to avoid closure zones. Of course, so many of the peaks share the same short season this will inevitably be difficult.
Thanks for the advice on the Altera Lone Peak RSM shoes! I'll look into them.
For training I don't really do anything special. I just try to climb mountains every day in the summer unless I'm taking a rest day.
|
Back to top |
|
|
xuanxier Member
Joined: 09 May 2017 Posts: 80 | TRs | Pics Location: Vancouver, BC |
|
xuanxier
Member
|
Tue Oct 09, 2018 12:29 pm
|
|
|
Awesome and a big congratz. This feat makes the history in North American mountaineering and peak-bagging. I'm glad to be a tiny part of the game crushing the Chilliwack-six with you. Still cannot believe we pulled Easy Mox and Redoubt off on Day 1....
Also an unrelated shout out to my friend Ben Nearingburg who just shaved the FKT of 11,000ers from 7.5 years down to 5.5 years. I've accompanied him on two third of the journey. You guys are the inspirations!!
|
Back to top |
|
|
007 Member
|
|
007
Member
|
Wed Oct 10, 2018 2:39 pm
|
|
|
11 Bulgers in winter is what really blows me away - that's some really impressive work and seems like it'd be key to getting them done in that year window. Can I ask which 11 you did? An incredible performance all around!
|
Back to top |
|
|
SeanSullivan86 Member
Joined: 25 Jul 2009 Posts: 681 | TRs | Pics Location: Seattle, WA |
Wow, that's amazing !
If you were really doing a full-time Bulger-only effort, how many trips do you think you'd do? How many climbing days? Something like this?
Stuart / Sherpa
Argonaut / Colchuck / Dragontail / Little Annapurna / Enchantment / McClellan
Cashmere
Rainier / Little T
St Helens
Adams
Baker
Shuksan
Redoubt / Easy Mox / Hard Mox / Spickard / Custer / Rahm
Jack
Snowfield
Eldorado / Dorado Needle / Klawatti / Austera / Primus
Forbidden / Boston / Sahale / Horseshoe / Buckner
Logan / Storm King / Goode
Formbidable
Dome / Sinister
Cosho / Kimtah / Katsuk / Mesahchie
Black
Azurite
Golden Horn / Tower
Silver Star / Big Snagtooth
Gardner / North Gardner / Abernathy
Reynolds
Windy
Cathedral / Amphitheater / Remmel
Big Craggy / West Craggy
Robinson
Ptarmigan / Osceola / Carru / Lago / Blackcap / Monument / Lake / Lost
Star / Courtney / Oval
Hoodoo / Libby / Bigelow / Martin / Switchback
Cardinal / Emerald / Saska / Pinnacle
Spectacle Buttes / Maude / Seven Fingered Jack / Fernow / Copper
Greenwood / Dumbell / Chiwawa / Fortress
Buck
Clark / Luahna
Glacier
Bonanza / Martin
Dark
Flora / Devore / Tupshin
|
Back to top |
|
|
|
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
|
Disclosure: As an Amazon Associate NWHikers.net earns from qualifying purchases when you use our link(s).
|