Forum Index > Trip Reports > Good Times at Mount Garibaldi – Major Volcano in B.C.
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Redwic
Unlisted Free Agent



Joined: 23 Feb 2009
Posts: 3292 | TRs | Pics
Location: Going to the Prom(inence)
Redwic
Unlisted Free Agent
PostMon Jun 01, 2015 5:02 pm 
Mount Garibaldi is a very worthwhile mountaineering destination. The peak is the best known volcano in British Columbia as well as the only major North American volcano to have formed on a glacier during the Pleistocene Epoch. Standing at 8776’ elevation, the mountain massif looms over the city of Squamish and surrounding mountains along the Sea-to-Sky corridor. Although some people refer to the peak as part of the Cascade Range, the peak is actually a part of the Coast Mountains. This trip was the result of 2-3 consecutive Spring seasons of planning and coordinating with a number of people. During some weekends the invitees might have been mostly available but the avalanche danger would be high or the weather would be very questionable. Other times the most of the invitees had conflicting schedules while the weather would be favorable. Finally, this past weekend, a trip was coordinated that accommodated the most invitees, the best weather conditions, great snow conditions, low avalanche danger, and little-to-no wind. Seven people in total were in our group: Craig (me), Adam, Josh, Duane, and Edward from Washington, as well as Mark & his son Austin from Oregon. We gathered together on Friday afternoon and headed north to Squamish (B.C.) that evening for dinner. We then trekked up the very bumpy Brohm Ridge Road, where we found a nice place to camp. The next morning, we hiked the road to the entrance gate, where we got our first view of the Garibaldi massif. We continued hiking along the road, passing by chalets and heading up to the western end of Brohm Ridge. Snowpack started at 4900’, becoming constant beyond 5200’. The road eventually disappeared under a thick blanket of snow at 5500’.
Roadside camp
Roadside camp
First view of Garibaldi massif
First view of Garibaldi massif
Chalets
Chalets
Our group continued following Brohm Ridge up, down, and sometimes around multiple hills. It was a long, snowy trek but we never needed to use our snowshoes despite the very intense afternoon heat. We eventually made it to our high camp at 6600’ and setup camp shortly thereafter. Our high camp had a fantastic view of the steep northwest slopes of the peak, on which we heard and sometimes watched numerous rockfall and icefall that evening.
Heading up the snowy road
Heading up the snowy road
Garibaldi massif
Garibaldi massif
The Black Tusk
The Black Tusk
Ascending Brohm Ridge...
Ascending Brohm Ridge...
The team takes a lunch break
The team takes a lunch break
Enjoying the views...
Enjoying the views...
Brohm Ridge widens...
Brohm Ridge widens...
Adam enters a basin
Adam enters a basin
Adam side-traverses towards camp
Adam side-traverses towards camp
The rest of the team nears camp
The rest of the team nears camp
Adam on ridge above camp
Adam on ridge above camp
Garibaldi High Camp
Garibaldi High Camp
We started very early during the pre-dawn morning hours the next day. We split into two rope reams: one four-man team and one three-man team. We only needed our headlamps for less than one hour due to a lot of natural light occurring long before sunrise. The route from high camp took us across the Warren Glacier and then up the North Pitt Glacier on the north side of Mount Garibaldi. The route became noticeably steeper the further we ascended the North Pitt Glacier. We headed for a steep snow chute located above the upper right side of the glacier and leading to the summit ridge. This route section required crossing several snow bridges and took extra time to climb, but was likely the best route for reaching the summit ridge with the current conditions.
Sunrise approaching...
Sunrise approaching...
The Black Tusk and The Table
The Black Tusk and The Table
Ascending North Pitt Glacier
Ascending North Pitt Glacier
Heading towards steep chute
Heading towards steep chute
Ascending the steep chute...
Ascending the steep chute...
Looking towards Garibaldi Lake
Looking towards Garibaldi Lake
Once on the summit ridge, it only took several minutes to ascend the sometimes steep, sometimes knife-edge ridgeline to the summit. From the summit we had great views in every direction. We celebrated with multiple group photos and enjoying the surrounding mountain views. Before leaving the summit, we tried signing the summit register but the pen inside the canister was broken; several people took photos of the register, instead.
Summit group photo
Summit group photo
Adam chillin' at the summit
Adam chillin' at the summit
Summit Selfie
Summit Selfie
Great views from the summit!
Great views from the summit!
Dalton Dome in foreground
Dalton Dome in foreground
Atwell Peak and Dalton Dome
Atwell Peak and Dalton Dome
The ascent down the steep chute from the summit ridge was slow but steady; our two teams even used belays as extra security. Once down the steep upper sections of the mountain, the rest of the descent to high camp was uneventful. Perhaps our main hindrance was the heat of the sun radiating off the glaciers and snow. We were each happy to return to high camp, where we rested before preparing to tear-down our campsites and continue our descent down Brohm Ridge.
Four-man team on steep section
Four-man team on steep section
Four-man team heads down...
Four-man team heads down...
Sun halo over Garibaldi
Sun halo over Garibaldi
When we eventually neared the chalets several hours later, I spoke with two snowmobile enthusiasts. They offered to take a couple of people from our group with them up the road beyond the entrance gate but said it might take another 15-20 minutes before they would be ready to go. Adam and I continued walking down the road, with Adam stoppping to change his socks. While he was doing that, I continued walking a little further until finding a roadside log to sit on and wait for the group. Several minutes after waiting, I heard a lot of voices, cheering, and loud music coming from around a corner near where Adam had been taking his break. Soon afterwards, I watched the snowmobilers’ truck coming around the corner… with the rest of the team all seated in back and having a great time. The snowmobilers then stopped for me to also board the truck and we all rode back to our vehicles in style. This was a great way to rest our tired legs and probably the most fun I ever had to conclude a mountaineering trip.
Riding in style!
Riding in style!
Having fun on a bumpy road!
Having fun on a bumpy road!
Duane takes a turn!
Duane takes a turn!
For those who have never climbed Mount Garibaldi, I think I speak for our entire group when I say that it is a great peak and a fantastic mountaineering objective. This peak and trip was the most fun I have had this year, thus far. I express thanks to our entire group; every person contributed to the success of the trip.

60 pounds lighter but not 60 points brighter.
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Gimpilator
infinity/21M



Joined: 12 Oct 2006
Posts: 1684 | TRs | Pics
Location: Edmonds, WA
Gimpilator
infinity/21M
PostMon Jun 01, 2015 5:02 pm 
I had lots of fun. Thanks everyone who participated in this climb. And what a unique ride down the mountain! lol.gif
Tantalus
Tantalus
Black Tusk
Black Tusk
Josh super-stoked as always
Josh super-stoked as always
the gnarly northwest face
the gnarly northwest face
The Table
The Table
Redwic climbing the steep section
Redwic climbing the steep section
Atwell
Atwell
group on the summit
6 labels
group on the summit
downclimbing
downclimbing
my 4-season tents ::)
my 4-season tents smile.gif
a sign of bad weather coming in
a sign of bad weather coming in

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Anish
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Joined: 07 Sep 2014
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Anish
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PostMon Jun 01, 2015 5:28 pm 
Looks like a great trip, guys! I see a lot of awesome looking objectives in those summit views!

"Our way is not soft grass. It's a mountain path with lots of rocks. But it goes upwards, forward, toward the sun." -Ruth Westheimer
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Gimpilator
infinity/21M



Joined: 12 Oct 2006
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Location: Edmonds, WA
Gimpilator
infinity/21M
PostMon Jun 01, 2015 5:31 pm 
Anish wrote:
I see a lot of awesome looking objectives in those summit views!
That's right. I'm already planning several more trips in this area. This first peak in the coastal range was king of an eye-opener. The international border has been like a mental block for a long time, but I'd like to change that.

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Redwic
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Joined: 23 Feb 2009
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Location: Going to the Prom(inence)
Redwic
Unlisted Free Agent
PostMon Jun 01, 2015 5:35 pm 
Gimpilator wrote:
I'm already planning several more trips in this area.
ditto.gif I have done a summit climb in B.C. each of the past four years or so. I have enjoyed each of those trips and I plan to do many more outdoor adventures north of the border.

60 pounds lighter but not 60 points brighter.
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raising3hikers
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Joined: 21 Sep 2007
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Location: Edmonds, Wa
raising3hikers
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PostMon Jun 01, 2015 5:36 pm 
Gimpilator wrote:
Anish wrote:
I see a lot of awesome looking objectives in those summit views!
That's right. I'm already planning several more trips in this area. This first peak in the coastal range was king of an eye-opener. The international border has been like a mental block for a long time, but I'd like to change that.
i agree, i've heard good things about the coastal range. great looking peak and trip up.gif

Eric Eames
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dundeel
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Joined: 14 Jun 2010
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Location: I wish I knew.
dundeel
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PostMon Jun 01, 2015 5:39 pm 
Great looking trip! Too bad I'm afraid to travel in foreign countries. paranoid.gif Eh!

Courage is being scared to death, but saddling up and going anyway. - John Wayne
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smmslt
Prominencian



Joined: 14 Jan 2003
Posts: 89 | TRs | Pics
Location: Vancouver, WA
smmslt
Prominencian
PostMon Jun 01, 2015 6:02 pm 
Looks like a great trip guys. Love the photos -- what views!! Sorry I missed out, but glad I'm getting treated!

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smmslt
Prominencian



Joined: 14 Jan 2003
Posts: 89 | TRs | Pics
Location: Vancouver, WA
smmslt
Prominencian
PostMon Jun 01, 2015 6:10 pm 
Redwic wrote:
This peak and trip was the most fun I have had this year
You mean this was even better than that lovely, no-views, tick infested, wet brush fest called Dixon Mountain. Heresy, I say, heresy!

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RichP
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Joined: 13 Jul 2006
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Location: here
RichP
Member
PostMon Jun 01, 2015 7:39 pm 
Silly me. I thought Garibaldi was the only volcano in B.C. There are actually quite a few. http://www.sfu.ca/geog250spring03/index/250_brendan.pdf

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Magellan
Brutally Handsome



Joined: 26 Jul 2006
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Location: Inexorable descent
Magellan
Brutally Handsome
PostMon Jun 01, 2015 8:57 pm 
Nice work fellas. up.gif I have heard the Coast Range has some amazing climbing, and apparently, a lot less regulation than the US.

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Gwen
LO Girl-of-the-Month



Joined: 14 Feb 2010
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Gwen
LO Girl-of-the-Month
PostMon Jun 01, 2015 10:31 pm 
dundeel wrote:
Great looking trip! Too bad I'm afraid to travel in foreign countries. paranoid.gif Eh!
Canada's not a foreign country! LOL

Tomorrow's not promised to anyone, so be bold, scare yourself, attempt something with no guarantee of success. You'll be amazed at what you can achieve. -Olive McGloin
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mtn.climber
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mtn.climber
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PostMon Jun 01, 2015 10:48 pm 
Very, very nice! up.gif

Reach for the sky, cuz tomorrow may never come. Live the life of love. Love the life you live.
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puzzlr
Mid Fork Rocks



Joined: 13 Feb 2007
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puzzlr
Mid Fork Rocks
PostMon Jun 01, 2015 11:20 pm 
Nice work -- especially on the logistics to get that whole group up.

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seawallrunner
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Joined: 27 Apr 2005
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Location: Lotusland
seawallrunner
dilettante
PostTue Jun 02, 2015 12:20 pm 
Well done team !!

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