[Jim Dockery]

Vesper Peak

Vesper Peak is one of my favorite local ski tours and I do it at least once a year. It's a great little mountain that has it all - graceful form, great views, reasonable approach, and good granitic rock. Last spring I finally spent the night on top and got some good sunset-rise pictures. Back in the day I soloed the standard route on the north face (not recommended), so when I read about a new route, The Ragged Edge, on the upper north face I figured I had to try it. Hats off to the first ascentionists who braved lichen crusted rock and sketchy pro to put up the route, but even more I'd like to thank Darin who returned to clean and retro-bolt it. It's still got a bit-o spice at the grade (I wouldn't want to be padding up the heather hummocks on the last pitch on a wet day) but it is a very reasonable 5.7 alpine romp for the mortal weekend warrior (or fat old climber getting off the couch).

Topo

I talked my friend Tom into accompanying me as a 60th birthday present. It was harder getting him to put on the red t-shirt I brought along for photos, but he reluctantly agreed. I thank him for making the day a total success - this climb is incredibly photogenic and I wouldn't have felt like I truly succeeded if I hadn't gotten some good shots. He also let me lead the whole thing so I had great views looking down on him with the broken glacier below.

Approach Trail

The TRs on CC didn't exactly explain how to get to the col where you traverse out onto the face. I've climbed directly up from the lake on chossy rubble before and didn't want to repeat that, so we kept following the climber's trail until ~5800 ft. where we traversed hard right with a bit a friction scrambling to the col. I changed out of my hiking boots into light approach shoes and left some food, water, and other items near the trail to lighten my load. We both climbed with packs to hold our shoes, water, and extra clothes.

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Upper Slopes of Vesper

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Approach to climb

The ledges out onto the face are exposed but easy. I was glad we'd given it another day to dry out after the recent rains though (the whole climb would be much tougher if damp).

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View from Col

Approach Ledge

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Approach Ledge from 1st belay

We decided to do the original first pitch start, which wasn't bad. There is a new two pitch alternative to the right, but by that point we realized we'd better get a move on and just finish the route.

The Ragged Edge

Stellar 3rd Pitch

I'd made a rough sketch as a guide, so had a bit of trouble finding the right way on the 4th pitch, but the cool ledge I ended up traversing at the start of the pitch reminded me of a mini Thank God Ledge on Half Dome.

Nearing The Edge

The 5th Pitch Traverse

Last pitch - easy but runout at the top

Last moves up heather

After a bite, drink, and repacking on top we were off for the long rocky descent which our poor old knees demanded we take slow and carefully. Tom says this is his new least favorite trail.

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Descent from summit

We passed some incredibly loud marmots screeching a protest at our trespass.

Angry marmot

We were both pretty sore by the time we got back to the car around 9, and we still are two days later! Hope you think it was worth it Tom, it sure was for me. I'd rate this the best moderate technical climb up The Mountain Loop

Sun sets behind Vesper

[olderthanIusedtobe]

Thanks for sharing some wonderful pictures from a side of the mountain most of us haven't seen. Sounds like a fun adventure.

[gneiss]

Nice! I did this last summer and led every pitch, it's an amazing climb in an awesome position!

[Shred]

Nice one! Looks like a fun climb. Did you have the face to yourselves?

[Jim Dockery]

Jeff, from the TRs on CC it sounds like the word is out on this climb, and of course this TR will pile on. We were lucky enough to have the whole mountain to ourselves on a mid week day. Met a couple hiking up who hung out at the lake, then 3 young guys passed us on the way down from the pass, but we only saw marmots and flying ants on the mountain. Here's a trip down memory lane for you that nicely shows the route.

[GeoTom]

Very nice, although I'd be even more impressed if you'd managed a ski descent.

[Kenji]

nice shot of your buddy; makes me want to get back into climbing...

[Jim Dockery]

Kenji, This climb makes it worth strapping on the harness again. I've always wanted to ski down the glacier to Copper Lake, but never have. I'm pretty sure Shred has. Next spring I'll have to get an early start one day and do it.

[Gimpilator]

That looks like a great climb. Thanks for putting together those route beta shots.

[gavastik]

Great TR, thank you! Did you need crampons and ice axe?

[Ringangleclaw]

[Backpacker Joe]

James, youre a Krazie Klimber, but you shoot great pics. Be careful out there.

[radka]

[Jim Dockery]

gavaskik, no snow on route at all. radka, it is definitely 5.7 (topo ratings are true) and pretty consistent mid 5th, but not too strenuous - most of the time it isn't very steep. There are good footholds if you look for them, pro is good too, but a bit runout at the top where it is easier, but not trivial. The exposure on the traverse above the overhangs is thrilling, but could get to you if you let it. I'd think if you've been doing alpine 5.6 and 5.8 or more in the gym, it should be a great climb.

[Matt]

Nice job, and great photos. I'm especially impressed that you got your partner to wear a red shirt just so he'd show up in the photos.