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Fletcher
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Joined: 29 Jul 2009
Posts: 1870 | TRs | Pics
Location: kirkland
Fletcher
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PostWed May 18, 2016 12:31 pm 
Dustin and I day hiked Deception in optimal conditions yesterday. Its a peak I have wanted for a long time. We got a late start and weren't hiking until 8:15. We cruised up the trail and made great time to the meadows below Royal Lake where we switched from trail runners to boots and gaiters.
first views of the Needles
first views of the Needles
Lower Royal Meadows
Lower Royal Meadows
Snow was pretty much continuous from about 4800 feet and up. We lost the trail and followed Royal Creek up toward Upper Royal Basin.
first view of Deception
first view of Deception
getting closer
getting closer
As we neared our objective, I was giddy with excitement. The direct route straight up the NE face looked incredibly steep with numerous runnels so we opted to kick steps up to the Deception/Martin Col. We swapped leads, but I must admit that Dustin kicked many more steps than I did.
Mount Deception 5-18-16
Mount Deception 5-18-16
Mount Deception 5-18-16
Mount Deception 5-18-16
Mount Deception 5-18-16
Mount Deception 5-18-16
Mount Deception 5-18-16
Mount Deception 5-18-16
Seems like it took us maybe an hour and we found ourselves on the ridge. The scrambling to where you can drop down to the Deception Glacier is loose but a lot of fun, just take care.
Mount Deception 5-18-16
Mount Deception 5-18-16
eyes on the prize
eyes on the prize
Gilhooley Tower
Gilhooley Tower
descending to the glacier
descending to the glacier
Deception Glacier
Deception Glacier
We made our way up the glacier and traversed around Gilhooley Tower to regain the north ridge. Just a short ways to the summit from here, we summited at 1:47, 5:33 after leaving the car. The summit of Deception is spacious and the views of the Olympics are some of the best I have ever seen.
loose junk
loose junk
scree to regain to ridge
scree to regain to ridge
summit is near
summit is near
Dustin and Gilhooley
Dustin and Gilhooley
Dustin on the summit
Dustin on the summit
summit flora
summit flora
Warrior, Constance, Mystery, and The Brothers
Warrior, Constance, Mystery, and The Brothers
Olympus and more
Olympus and more
The Needles and Grey Wolf Ridge
The Needles and Grey Wolf Ridge
Deception summitshot
Deception summitshot
We hung out on the summit for 40 minutes or so and then began our descent. We contemplated tagging Gilhooley Tower but the crux looked too gnarly to do in mountaineering boots.
Gilhooley again
Gilhooley again
I want to come back and bag some of the Needles
I want to come back and bag some of the Needles
back to the ridge
back to the ridge
Dustin and Martin
Dustin and Martin
scrambling
scrambling
steep descent ahead
steep descent ahead
The descent back to Royal Basin was easier than I feared it might be. Much of it we were able to plunge step, with only the steeper and more exposed sections did we face in.
downclimbing
downclimbing
plunging
plunging
Upper Royal Basin and Mount Fricaba
Upper Royal Basin and Mount Fricaba
looking back at our route
13 labels
looking back at our route
Deception, last look back
Deception, last look back
descending into Royal Creek
descending into Royal Creek
We made good time back down into the basin and found nice, dry break spot along upper Royal Creek to refill on water. We cruised the 7 miles out from there, and made it back to the car at about 6:45. Dustin brought some Grapefruit Sculpin IPAs that we left in the car, delicious!
Grapefruit Sculpins at the crash-wagon to finish the day!
Grapefruit Sculpins at the crash-wagon to finish the day!
~20 miles ~6450 in gain ~10:30 C2C

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Dustin Trails
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Joined: 23 Feb 2015
Posts: 116 | TRs | Pics
Location: Ashford, WA
Dustin Trails
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PostWed May 18, 2016 12:49 pm 
Great trip idea! I'm glad we did it as a spring climb.
Ascending steep snow to Martin/Deception saddle
Ascending steep snow to Martin/Deception saddle
Upper Royal Basin
Upper Royal Basin
Gilhooley Tower
Gilhooley Tower
Descending onto the glacier
Descending onto the glacier
Nearing the summit
Nearing the summit
Mystery and Little Mystery
Mystery and Little Mystery
Mount Constance
Mount Constance
The Needles and Gray Wolf Ridge
The Needles and Gray Wolf Ridge
Mount Baker, Petunia and North Petunia
Mount Baker, Petunia and North Petunia
Mount Mystery
Mount Mystery
Summit area looking SW
Summit area looking SW
The Needles
The Needles
Fletcher and The Needles
Fletcher and The Needles
Front-pointing downhill
Front-pointing downhill

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Gimpilator
infinity/21M



Joined: 12 Oct 2006
Posts: 1684 | TRs | Pics
Location: Edmonds, WA
Gimpilator
infinity/21M
PostWed May 18, 2016 12:54 pm 
Glad to see you guys got it. I can say from experience that the slope above upper Royal Basin is terrible without snow. That is what stymied me the first time. If all goes as planned, you'll have OCD after this summer, Olympus/Constance/Deception, the big 3.

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Matt
Tea, Earl Grey, Hot



Joined: 30 Jan 2007
Posts: 4307 | TRs | Pics
Location: Shoreline
Matt
Tea, Earl Grey, Hot
PostWed May 18, 2016 1:15 pm 
Looks like great conditions for it. That's a long way to go for a day trip.

“As beacons mountains burned at evening.” J.R.R. Tolkien
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puzzlr
Mid Fork Rocks



Joined: 13 Feb 2007
Posts: 7220 | TRs | Pics
Location: Stuck in the middle
puzzlr
Mid Fork Rocks
PostWed May 18, 2016 1:29 pm 
Gimpilator wrote:
the slope above upper Royal Basin is terrible without snow
Agree -- we came down that from Martin after traversing the ridge from Deception. Ball bearing gravel on steep hard packed dirt, I was so glad to get down without a skin scraping fall. I don't remember the NE side where we went up being very steep except for a couple spots, but we were there in August when it was mostly rock scrambling.

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meck
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Joined: 31 Dec 2010
Posts: 920 | TRs | Pics
meck
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PostWed May 18, 2016 5:11 pm 
Neat trip, and that was a fast time too!! Your pictures make that route look way better, more inviting, w/ snow than without. Thanks for posting the great pics.

*Just say NO to Rent-Seeking, don't give up the concept of "ownership"*
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HumpnoocheeGirl
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Joined: 03 Feb 2011
Posts: 335 | TRs | Pics
Location: Grays Harbor
HumpnoocheeGirl
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PostThu May 19, 2016 11:21 am 
Great journey! Love the summit flowers and the summit selfie😃 Ps: the drink sounds refreshing

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RodF
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Joined: 01 Sep 2007
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Location: Sequim WA
RodF
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PostFri May 20, 2016 7:30 pm 
up.gif Well done! Thanks for sharing the magnificent views!

"of all the paths you take in life, make sure a few of them are dirt" - John Muir "the wild is not the opposite of cultivated. It is the opposite of the captivated” - Vandana Shiva
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Geezer
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Geezer
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PostTue May 24, 2016 4:05 pm 
Congratulations on your successful climb, especially doing it in one day with all that snow. I was just up there two days ago and lost the trail just after leaving the lake and heading towards the ranger station. Too much snow for me. I have done that climb in Sept with no snow and it is hell, and takes me 3 days and two nights. I did ascend to the saddle and then stayed on the east side of the ridge until the main chute before ascending the top of the ridge on the west side. Does anyone know if this is an acceptable route or did I go where I should not have?

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Rinric
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Joined: 14 Apr 2016
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Location: Florida
Rinric
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PostThu May 26, 2016 3:05 pm 
Great photos - Thanks

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