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raising3hikers
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PostMon Jun 27, 2016 10:43 pm 
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Recluse Pk 7080' P480 is about 1 mile East of Spider Mtn.  No info on it anywhere, not even a note in the CAG.  First known ascent? FKA

Stefan, Iron and I set out for it this past weekend as we have had an eye on it for a few years now.  On my trip to Spider Mtn last year, I looked to the East on the North side of Spider to see if there was a way to get past the steep slabs and sharp rib to access the narrow glacier waiting on the other side.  There looked to be one spot that might work and that became the plan.

We left Edmonds at 4am on Saturday and arrived at the recently opened Cascade Pass TH by 630am.  It was cold and cloudy from the start as we found a few down logs over the first few switchbacks along the trail.  We arrived at the pass to more views from inside the cloud.  As we headed up Mixup arm and towards the Cache glacier, some of the clouds started to lift.

iron and stefan with cascade pass below
iron and stefan with cascade pass below

We easily reached Cache col with one steep step at the top right side.  From there, it was another white out towards Kool Aid lake.  We grabbed some more water while talking to another climber heading for Formidable the next day.  With limited visibility, we finally got to the Hurry Up/Art's Knoll col.  It was originally a possible camp location but with our early start, we opted to get as close to our peak as we could.

As we crossed the col, the weather changed significantly.  We could actually see some exciting mountain scenery.  The North side of Spider mountain is jaw dropping as was a water fall dropping into a deep gorge.

waterfall
waterfall
Spider Mtn
Spider Mtn

From the col, we had to drop about 1500' before starting back up the snow and weaving around some polished slabs.  We were thinking of changing plans and climb the East glacier instead of the intimidating rock rib to the East.

Recluse Pk on the left, steep rock rib in front needed to get past
Recluse Pk on the left, steep rock rib in front needed to get past

We decided to check out the rib first as it should be an easier option if we can get to the other side.  A couple of dead ends and lots of wet rock had us wondering if we were wasting our time on it.  One last try down at 5350' had us getting access to the rib.  A dirty gully, steep snow and loose rock had us on the rib at 5600'!  Then we had a firm snow finger or steep ground to descend to get to the main small glacier.  We went different ways and knew the toughest part was now behind us.

Spider Mtn
Spider Mtn
iron admiring the W Flat creek valley
iron admiring the W Flat creek valley
Trappers Annex to Glory
Trappers Annex to Glory
Spider
Spider
Hurry Up Pk
Hurry Up Pk

We had another 1000' to gain to get to the saddle, the snow was great for kicking steps and we soon saw the other side.  Rimrock ridge was just across the valley as we looked for a good place to set camp.  We found a spot a few hundred feet below the saddle and took a well deserved break.

Recluse and our glacier ascent to the right
Recluse and our glacier ascent to the right
Trappers Pk
Trappers Pk

We decided to climb to the summit since we still had plenty of daylight left in the day.  The SW slope was mostly on snow with a small bit of crumbly rock to the top.  We found no evidence of anyone ever being there before.

Recluse Pk
Recluse Pk
Sinster and Dome
Sinster and Dome
Spider
Spider
Iron and Stefan at the summit
Iron and Stefan at the summit
summit shot
summit shot

We left a register and built a small cairn before dropping back down to camp.  It was a long day but we all were thankful that everything went better than planned.

Stefan multi tasking
Stefan multi tasking

The next morning, we went separate ways as Iron and Stefan were hoping to find a way through Spider's East side for a summit attempt.  I went back the way we came because climbing Spider last year was enough for me. 

I was able to get another look at that tall waterfall and enjoy the remote basin that I was in.

Spider
Spider
waterfalls
waterfalls
glacier
glacier
looking up to the HurryUp col
looking up to the HurryUp col

As I was traversing below the glacier, I heard and saw some snow splashing around above.  It was an ice fall heading in my direction.  As I could see it coming my way, I dropped my hiking poles and jumped over to some rocks as a bowling ball sized ice chunked whizzed by.  I kept my eyes up slope the rest of the way through the basin.

I reached the col with one more great view of Spider and noticed that Iron and Stefan were heading down the East glacier, I guessed they didn't like what they saw on the East side of Spider.

Spider
Spider
Iron and Stefan descending the glacier
Iron and Stefan descending the glacier
JBerg to Mixup
JBerg to Mixup

On the way back, I decided to climb Magic Mtn.  I reached the South saddle, found a climbers trail which ended at the ridge.  From there, it was soft snow, and a little scrambling to the summit.  It was a little spicier than I expected but it went.

flowers
flowers
Hurry Up Pk
Hurry Up Pk
Glory and Trappers Lake
Glory and Trappers Lake

On the way back down MixUp arm, I ran into TomS and Dicey going for a pretty nice 5 day trip.  It was good chatting with them before heading back down to the TH.

22 miles
11000' elevation gain
2 days

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Eric Eames
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Redwic
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PostMon Jun 27, 2016 10:58 pm 
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Nice going, you guys! I noticed this peak on maps a while back but then forgot about it. Whether it is a FA or not (and I hope it is, for you), this is surely not a peak that has seen or will ever see many ascents.
up.gif  up.gif  up.gif

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"Revolutions are not overnight. The heightist mindset has minimally a 100 year head start. Eventually the climbing community will embrace geocaching." -Paul Michelson
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awilsondc
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PostMon Jun 27, 2016 11:22 pm 
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Whoa!  Now that's some solid peak bagging!  Nice work, looks like an awesome time!  up.gif  up.gif
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Matt
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PostMon Jun 27, 2016 11:31 pm 
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I wasn't aware of that one.  Nice work getting there.  You guys still move awfully fast, to get there and back in two days.

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“As beacons mountains burned at evening.” J.R.R. Tolkien
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puzzlr
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PostTue Jun 28, 2016 1:22 am 
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raising3hikers wrote:
Spider Mtn
Spider Mtn

I may be getting old and conservative, but those big cornices up there would freak me out!  eek.gif

Did you find a register? Too much snow? I bet this peak has been climbed only a few times.

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Mid Fork Rocks • flickr
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Distel32
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PostTue Jun 28, 2016 5:37 am 
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up.gif  up.gif  up.gif
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b00
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PostTue Jun 28, 2016 7:24 am 
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wow!!!
so cool that you were able to find a way that worked to get there and make such good time to camp.  that route was a brilliant idea!
congrats!!!
:>)
ps - why was magic hard?  did you drop down and around on the easy gully and ramp system between the false summit and the true summit?
ps to iron - i thought you going to name this edith peak :>)
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iron
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getting old
PostTue Jun 28, 2016 10:08 am 
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puzzlr wrote:
I may be getting old and conservative, but those big cornices up there would freak me out!  eek.gif

those cornices are 3000ft above us. when walking through a basin like this, you can see where the typical fall/debris zones are. for the most part, we were walking only through areas with clean snow. the one exception was the part where r3h had the bowling ball sized ice chunk whiz by, and that was from icefall.


puzzlr wrote:
Did you find a register? Too much snow? I bet this peak has been climbed only a few times.

no register. we believe this to be a first ascent. summit was snow-free. no cairn.


Matt wrote:
You guys still move awfully fast, to get there and back in two days.

ironically, i think this peak could be daytripped with the right snow conditions. this past weekend, it would have been daytrippable. we had some awesome glissading opportunities that really helps save time. so, for future peakbaggers, i would suggest a late spring snowpack that is stable, followed by a recent dump of new snow to soften things up for glissading purposes. if this route doesn't have snow, it would surely be quite tedious.

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man, you go through life, you try to be nice to people, you struggle to resist the urge to punch 'em in the face, and for what?

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Stefan
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PostTue Jun 28, 2016 12:59 pm 
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Here are my pics.  I had a great time!


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Art is an adventure.
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RichP
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PostTue Jun 28, 2016 1:24 pm 
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Congratulations to all for making it first ascent or not.  up.gif  up.gif

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Without obsession, life is nothing. John Waters
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Gimpilator
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PostTue Jun 28, 2016 4:44 pm 
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Awesome trip!  Several years back a friend of mine alluded to an FA remaining,  somewhere along the Ptarmigan Traverse,  but he wouldn't tell me which peak.  Now I know.  Very cool.

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https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCw7tyvnbUagAxIxEuJE5Udw
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Keep climbing mountains and don't slip!
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wildernessed
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PostTue Jun 28, 2016 5:50 pm 
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up.gif Nice !

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Living in the Anthropocene
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Justus S.
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PostTue Jun 28, 2016 10:07 pm 
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Nice job getting out there. up.gif Looks like a peak better suited for the skiers.
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Matt
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PostTue Jun 28, 2016 10:33 pm 
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Good name for it also, catching both the rarely visited connotation and the connection to Spider.

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“As beacons mountains burned at evening.” J.R.R. Tolkien
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mbravenboer
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PostTue Jun 28, 2016 10:43 pm 
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up.gif Great photos
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