Forum Index > Trip Reports > Devil's Peak 6-28-16
Previous :: Next Topic  
Author Message
Fletcher
Member
Member


Joined: 29 Jul 2009
Posts: 1614 | TRs
Location: kirkland
Fletcher
  Top

Member
PostThu Jun 30, 2016 1:32 pm 
Reply to topic Reply with quote
Reed, John and I climbed Devil's on Tuesday; the worst bushwhack in living memory. So bad, in fact, that if we hadn't underestimated it, we probably would have chosen a different peak to climb.

Reed and I had to hike into McCallister Camp on Thunder Creek Tuesday evening, so we needed a "quick and easy" morning objective beforehand. Devil's seemed pretty easy, with a fun summit block, so we decided on that. John met up with us on the Mtn Loop Monday night, and we were hiking up the closed Coal Creek Road at 5:30.

We followed the road for a few miles until pink flagging lead us off the road and up the left side of the creek draining Devil's Lake. The route was fairly easy to follow and the forest was beautiful.
Big Four and Hall from Coal Creek Road
Big Four and Hall from Coal Creek Road
forest scrambling
forest scrambling
waterfall
waterfall

The route eventually comes out in the basin below Devil's Peak and Lake and abruptly ends. There is no route that we could find through the impenetrable brush wall that guards you from Devil's summit block 1600 feet above. We basically just dove in head first and began making our way (very, very slowly) upward. This was the worst and most sustained brush I have ever encountered, horrible. So thick you can't see anything more than a few feet above or below you. Small cliff bands everywhere to negotiate, places where you must make class 5 moves up shrubby trees. At one point a horse fly came along and bit me 3 times within about 20 seconds, causing me to panic and lose my cool briefly. We probably would have turned around, if we hadn't thought that continuing up would be easier. Eventually, around 4600 ft, we came out of it into more open terrain. All were relieved.
the summit block above, with impenetrable brush wall in the foreground
the summit block above, with impenetrable brush wall in the foreground
class 5 moves over shrubby trees, much worse than it looks
class 5 moves over shrubby trees, much worse than it looks
brush free with the summit ahead!
brush free with the summit ahead!

We worked our way up to the obvious col just south of the summit block and dropped some gear. As we were "exploring the route" we accidentally topped out on the very short crux and found ourselves at the exposed ledge. The ledge was really easy and we quickly found ourselves on the spacious summit. We had a little bit of pro with us, but it only served as weight training.
summit
summit
Reed and John on the crux, beginning of the ledge is just over Reed's head
Reed and John on the crux, beginning of the ledge is just over Reed's head
looking back across the ledge
looking back across the ledge

It was a beautiful day and the views were grand.
Three Fingers and Whitehorse
Three Fingers and Whitehorse
Jumbo and Baker
Jumbo and Baker
Glacier
Glacier
Monte Christos
Monte Christos

We spent 20 minutes on the summit, then began our descent. We rapped off of 2 30ms at the well established anchor halfway across the ledge. Reed's first alpine rappel!
Reed rapelling
Reed rapelling
John rapelling
John rapelling

Back at the col, we decided to work our way down the ridge toward Devil's Thumb to try to find an easier way down into the basin. We didn't quite make it to the low point between the two peaks before dropping down off the ridge. Lots of class 3 and a little class 4 down climbing on mossy rock, and just a little brush later, we were having a snack at Devil's Lake.
looking back
looking back
John descends with Devils Thumb
John descends with Devils Thumb
descending fun with poor focus
descending fun with poor focus
descending fun
descending fun
we came down that
we came down that
Devils Lake
Devils Lake

The hike out from the lake was trivial compared to what we had endured earlier in the day. We made it back to the car at 3:40, making it just over a 10 hour day. John drove back to Seattle and Reed and I headed into Darrington to restock on provisions and head into NCNP.
Back to top
View user's profile Search for posts by this user Send private message Reply to topic Reply with quote
puzzlr
Mid Fork Rocks



Joined: 13 Feb 2007
Posts: 6685 | TRs
Location: Stuck in the middle
puzzlr
  Top

Mid Fork Rocks
PostThu Jun 30, 2016 7:37 pm 
Reply to topic Reply with quote
The "Devil" part of the name might have been a clue. I've wanted to do this too, but it seems like ideal conditions (snow over brush, clear dry rock) are hard to get.

--------------
Mid Fork Rocks ē flickr
Back to top
View user's profile Search for posts by this user Send private message Send e-mail Reply to topic Reply with quote
Mike Collins
Member
Member


Joined: 18 Dec 2001
Posts: 2726 | TRs

Mike Collins
  Top

Member
PostThu Jun 30, 2016 8:09 pm 
Reply to topic Reply with quote
When I climbed Devils Peak it was mid-April and don't remember the brush being bad. In fact we added Devil's Thumb to the day making it a 2-fer. There must have been snowpack helping us during the early season outing as our car-to-car time was 12 hrs.
Back to top
View user's profile Search for posts by this user Send private message Send e-mail Reply to topic Reply with quote
Schroder
Member
Member


Joined: 26 Oct 2007
Posts: 5741 | TRs
Location: on the beach
Schroder
  Top

Member
PostFri Jul 01, 2016 10:17 am 
Reply to topic Reply with quote
This is a nice winter climb.  Back when I first did it in the 60's we could drive that road bed almost to the basin & it was about a 2 hour climb.
Back to top
View user's profile Search for posts by this user Send private message Send e-mail Reply to topic Reply with quote
olderthanIusedtobe
Member
Member


Joined: 05 Sep 2011
Posts: 6802 | TRs
Location: Shoreline
olderthanIusedtobe
  Top

Member
PostFri Jul 01, 2016 11:51 am 
Reply to topic Reply with quote
Yeah I did that one either late winter or early spring, route was snow covered, no brush to contend with.  Definitely the way to do it, sounds like.
Back to top
View user's profile Search for posts by this user Send private message Send e-mail Reply to topic Reply with quote
jcocci
Member
Member


Joined: 16 Jul 2009
Posts: 470 | TRs

jcocci
  Top

Member
PostFri Jul 01, 2016 2:58 pm 
Reply to topic Reply with quote
Yeah we definitely hit it too late. Oh well. Was definitely some Type 2 fun. Here's a few more photos.

Fletcher wondering WTF!
Fletcher wondering WTF!
Don't let the smiles fool you.
Don't let the smiles fool you.
Fletcher getting onto the ledge.
Fletcher getting onto the ledge.
The bushwhacking pay off.
The bushwhacking pay off.
Some of the decent.
Some of the decent.
Back to top
View user's profile Search for posts by this user Send private message Reply to topic Reply with quote
Chief Joseph
Member
Member


Joined: 10 Nov 2007
Posts: 5415 | TRs
Location: What Verlot Forgot.
Chief Joseph
  Top

Member
PostFri Jul 01, 2016 9:15 pm 
Reply to topic Reply with quote
Finally, a photo of Devils Lake!  up.gif  Most unimpressive I might add..

Devils Lake
Devils Lake

--------------
Go placidly amid the noise and waste, and remember what comfort there may be in owning a piece thereof.
Back to top
View user's profile Search for posts by this user Send private message Reply to topic Reply with quote
Notgood27
Member
Member


Joined: 30 May 2020
Posts: 9 | TRs
Location: Bothell
Notgood27
  Top

Member
PostThu Jun 11, 2020 8:23 pm 
Reply to topic Reply with quote
I am adding the devilís lake hike to my list. Let the bushwhacking begin. Though the lake doesnít look amazing, it looks like a fun challenge.
Back to top
View user's profile Search for posts by this user Send private message Send e-mail Reply to topic Reply with quote
Jeff
Ramen Elitist



Joined: 18 Aug 2008
Posts: 3006 | TRs
Location: Someone get me out of Everett, WA
Jeff
  Top

Ramen Elitist
PostFri Jun 12, 2020 2:41 am 
Reply to topic Reply with quote
The brush was kind of bad in April. I can't imagine what it's like in June.
Back to top
View user's profile Search for posts by this user Send private message Send e-mail Reply to topic Reply with quote
Notgood27
Member
Member


Joined: 30 May 2020
Posts: 9 | TRs
Location: Bothell
Notgood27
  Top

Member
PostFri Jun 12, 2020 9:10 am 
Reply to topic Reply with quote
It will be worse, considering I canít do it until July. Hello Devils Club protecting Devils Lake. Iíll make my kid lead the way.
Back to top
View user's profile Search for posts by this user Send private message Send e-mail Reply to topic Reply with quote
Chief Joseph
Member
Member


Joined: 10 Nov 2007
Posts: 5415 | TRs
Location: What Verlot Forgot.
Chief Joseph
  Top

Member
PostFri Jun 12, 2020 11:08 am 
Reply to topic Reply with quote
So they accessed it via coal lake road, I thought the ďnormalĒ approach was off Deer Creek road? I suppose either will work, not sure which is best.

--------------
Go placidly amid the noise and waste, and remember what comfort there may be in owning a piece thereof.
Back to top
View user's profile Search for posts by this user Send private message Reply to topic Reply with quote
Notgood27
Member
Member


Joined: 30 May 2020
Posts: 9 | TRs
Location: Bothell
Notgood27
  Top

Member
PostFri Jun 12, 2020 11:26 am 
Reply to topic Reply with quote
I have seen some GPS routes and guidebooks that show you follow the overgrown road, and when it ends you basically follow the creek to the waterfall and climb left. Weíll see how possible it is in a few weeks.
Back to top
View user's profile Search for posts by this user Send private message Send e-mail Reply to topic Reply with quote
Riverside Laker
Member
Member


Joined: 12 Jan 2004
Posts: 2601 | TRs

Riverside Laker
  Top

Member
PostFri Jun 12, 2020 12:16 pm 
Reply to topic Reply with quote
See if you can find the trail and the mine adit. If you get to the adit, back up a bit, go climbers left and it's not terrible up to the lake area.
Back to top
View user's profile Search for posts by this user Send private message Reply to topic Reply with quote
Chief Joseph
Member
Member


Joined: 10 Nov 2007
Posts: 5415 | TRs
Location: What Verlot Forgot.
Chief Joseph
  Top

Member
PostFri Jun 12, 2020 12:22 pm 
Reply to topic Reply with quote
You are speaking of coal lake road approach, at the Independence lake TH?

--------------
Go placidly amid the noise and waste, and remember what comfort there may be in owning a piece thereof.
Back to top
View user's profile Search for posts by this user Send private message Reply to topic Reply with quote
Notgood27
Member
Member


Joined: 30 May 2020
Posts: 9 | TRs
Location: Bothell
Notgood27
  Top

Member
PostFri Jun 12, 2020 1:00 pm 
Reply to topic Reply with quote
Digging through google earth to try to find the Adit, I think I have the general range based off a map Iím looking at. My assumption it is on the left of the creek a little past the first major bend in the creek.

For the trail, I believe it is deer creek road to double eagle road, to following coal creek up. (Joseph)
Back to top
View user's profile Search for posts by this user Send private message Send e-mail Reply to topic Reply with quote
  Display:     All times are GMT - 8 Hours
Forum Index > Trip Reports > Devil's Peak 6-28-16
Jump to:   
Search this topic:

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You cannot attach files in this forum
You can download files in this forum
   Use Disclaimer Powered by phpBB Privacy Policy