[Gimpilator]

Mayumi and Brent invited me to to join them for a climb of Russian Butte.  This peak raised my interest with a reputation for being long, challenging and not often climbed.  We were disappointed to discover that the Middle Fork road was blocked by construction just before the Granite Lakes trailhead despite online claims that it would be open.  This would make our hike 22 miles instead of the anticipated 18.  We started hiking at 4:30am and did not finish until 1:50am.

Russian Butte seen from Moolock, April 2014

Russian Butte seen from Preacher Mountain, April 2014

We made good time up to Thompson Point, just 4 hours.  After that, travel along the narrow brushy ridge to Revolution Peak was much slower.  We traversed around the peak rather than over it and then continued north toward Russian Butte.  Sometimes the crest is easier than either of the side slopes, but we alternated between all three options.  Occasional dense trees slowed our progress.  We could see that traversing slopes far below the crest would include more brush.  As Dreisbach suggests, this peak is probably better done in June when snow makes for easier travel.

Thompson Point "trail"

Si, Teneriffe, Green

Rainier, Kent, McClellan

Thompson Point cabin

"Little Comrade" and Russian Butte

Russian Butte

a closer view

we saw a lot of these

Gifford Lakes

along the ridge

Before you get to the peak, there are two main large rock formations along the ridge.  These are bypassed on the east side.  The Dreisbach guide indicates going to the last saddle before the peak and looking for an “easy ramp on the west face.  Hoping to find this ramp, I spent time scouting a notch and then a saddle just south of the peak but no ramp was to be found.  I concluded that the ramp in question was actually much higher on the peak between the main summit and a rock horn which is shows in the contours on the map.

traversing below the east face with Revolution in the background

trees at the top of the gully

almost out

steep heather and minor cliffs on the northeast face

To reach this upper saddle you would have to scramble up the steep southeast face.  Many parties ascend this way, however it didn’t look like a good option to us, so we went in search of rumored some steep heather slopes on the northeast face.  We were blocked by a cliff band.  We found a steep class 3 gully.  I climbed up it.  Near the top was steep dirt and slippery pine needles.  I was glad to have numerous tree branches to pull on.  I was also glad that we had a rope, because it would be nicer to rappel this gully.  Mayumi and Brent followed up.

summit visible

triumphant

stoked

summit

We traversed slightly on the northeast face and found the heather slopes.  They were very steep and minor wet mossy cliff bands ran through them.  We picked our way left and right and had to scramble up the far left side of the last cliff.  The final heather slope was the steepest and then we were on a northeast ridge right below the summit.  It was just a walk from there.  I found the register placed by Monty and we signed in, the first of 2016.

cliff band scramble

after rappelling

Brent scrambles the gully

these smell good

Garfield

watching us

Navigating the steep heather slopes above cliff bands on the descent was a bit exciting.  You wouldn’t want to slip there.  Back at the gully I belayed Mayumi past the steep dirt and pine needles and then I rappelled it.  Brent felt confident that he did not need protection, so he pulled my sling and scrambled down himself.

Revolution summit

a last look at Russian Butte

nice light

sunset

lights in the cities

Back at Revolution Peak we parted ways briefly so I could go up to the summit for a last look at Russian Butte.  The sun was low in the sky and the light on the mountains was beautiful all around.  We made it as far as Thompson Point before dark.  Then down along Granite Creek we startled a bear which had climbed a tree to get a better look at our headlamps.

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https://www.youtube.com/c/Zogador
https://www.summitpost.org/users/gimpilator/25744
http://www.peakbagger.com/climber/ClimbListC.aspx?cid=2650&sort=elevft&u=ft&j=-1&y=9999

Keep climbing mountains and don't slip!

[Mike Collins]

Strong work on one of the more challenging for routefinding Homecourt Peaks. The Dreisbach route has danger.  I ascended that very exposed route but descended to the Pratt River for my exit and then forded the Middle Fork. You guys took the scenic route. My total time for Russian Butte was under ten hours via Gifford Creek in the shortened October days. I took Gifford Creek until ~2,200 and exiting when a cairn appeared on the left.

[Fletcher]

Damn... And I thought our 18+ hour day last week was long..

[Yana]

That is a long one indeed. dicey and I did it in the spring some years ago - I think snow makes a lot of the terrain a lot more manageable/accessible, and the going faster.  But you don't ever have to go back now. 

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PLAY SAFE! SKI ONLY IN CLOCKWISE DIRECTION! LET'S ALL HAVE FUN TOGETHER!

[puzzlr]

22 hours . Perhaps your partners should sign an indemnity waiver at the trailhead (just kidding). Your experience and that of others doing this in one day confirms that for me it was the right choice to overnight at Thompson Point on the way in. It was still a really long day starting there.

When I went up last year I was really disappointed to not find the old register in a glass jar. I looked for it for almost 30 minutes before giving up. This peak is climbed so rarely that it's hard to believe someone who got all that way would destroy an original register, assuming someone did. Anyway, I'm glad to see the new one is being signed by such deserving climbers.

I must have found an easier way up through those cliff bands on the NE side because I only had one spot with a 6 foot step with never any thought that I'd need a rope. But it is a little complicated in there -- I gained the summit ridge well north of the high point.

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Mid Fork Rocks • flickr

[fernweh]

Excellent trip report as always.

Thank you for helping us find the way to the summit of Russian Butte!

It truly was a suffer fest, and I am still tired.
Here is the gps track of the day for now. Pictures to come later, sleep now.

gps track Russian Butte


In an attempted to add to this trip report.

Water, last water source is not long after the Thompson Lake trail junction. There are very few and small snow blocks left on the NE slopes of Revolution.

Bugs!    They are far worse in the area between Revolution and Russian Butte than about anyplace I have been to in the PNW. misquitoes, biting knats, horese flies.


https://goo.gl/photos/BdbfBafZqdkwPhcy7

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"try not, do or do not" Yoda

[awilsondc]

Wow, that is a looooooong day!  Nice work on such a rarely climbed summit! 

[Brushbuffalo]

Impressive work! An ultra day   

Thompson Point cabin

[/quote]
I'm curious about thus cool-looking old cabin. Any details about it, anyone?

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Passing rocks and trees like they were standing still

[Hikerdood]

The cabin was built in the 90's. Just recently sold to DNR. They are trying to figure out what to do with it. I have been there numerous times now.
It used to have a very nice roof on it, which half of it is now down the side of the mountain. With the roof like it is now, it can only be a matter of time before the environment destroys it...

[Hikerdood]

Actually I think Forterra bought it.
http://forterra.org/editorial/ridgetop-in-middle-fork-snoqualmie-valley-unmasked

[Brushbuffalo]

Thanks for the info, hikerdood.
( dumb question but I assume you mean the 1890s?)

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Passing rocks and trees like they were standing still

[puzzlr]

No, 1990s, fairly recent. Forterra bought it but plans to turn it over to the DNR. Many inholders have a troubled history with the DNR so won't sell to them directly. I really need to write up what I've learned about this cabin on my website. It keeps coming up over and over. I doubt it will be there for too many more years -- it doesn't make sense any more without road access -- maintenance is impossible.

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Mid Fork Rocks • flickr

[mayumi]

Thanks again Gimpilator. We enjoyed all that Type 2 fun. My muscles have recovered but I'm still covered in itchy bug bites.

After looking at the pictures one more time, it appears you entered the wrong date in the summit register - you entered August 24 instead of July 24. Did you do that intentionally so that we'd have a reason to go back, to correct it? Brent is already planning the next trip out there. I think I would sit that one out   

[RichP]

Congratulations on getting that one. Sometimes the little peaks are the ones that kick your butt. 
I like Monty's idea of camping on the ridge if I ever get out there.

[markhadland]

Super report and thanks for the detailed writeup and photos!  Amazing push for a single day.  Having just gone up Revolution Peak in snow, thoughts and any research or info on Russian Butte in Winter?  Some of the ALW and HC100 Peaks seem more manageable with good snow cover.

cheers,
Mark