[Earthbound]

This one was a long time coming. When I walked the Continental Divide Trail (CDT) in 2005, I was fairly disappointed in the route through the Wind River Range in Wyoming. The Winds run from SE to NW for approximately 100 miles, with the Continental Divide cresting the range for its entire length, forming what may be the most remote mountain range located in the most sparsely populated state in the lower 48. The southwest shoulder of the Winds is characterized by a massive, broad alpine plateau that stands at around 10,000 ft. and is dominated by meadows and lakes. The CDT runs mostly through this plateau as it makes its way through the Winds – very pretty country, but not the kind of rugged alpine terrain that one would expect for the CDT through these mountains. I remember walking the CDT through these parklands and looking north at the mountains, wishing the trail was routed there instead. I vowed to return some day and walk a route through the Winds that was more fitting for the CDT – a route that stayed closer to the divide, or at least in the mountains. In the 11 years since I walked through these mountains, many seem to have had the same idea as me. A number of people have published their own versions of the Wind River High Route – Alan Dixon, Dan McCoy, Andrew Shurka, etc. I’ve been refining my route off and on for the last year or so, looking at other people’s routes and combing through various guidebooks. I settled on a route that felt like it took in the best of the range: http://caltopo.com/m/7MF9 My friend Joel Podgorski, who I knew from my days living in Boulder, CO, flew in from Switzerland and we met in Lander, WY on August 3rd, 2016. The first thing we did was to set up the car shuttle, leaving one car at the Glacier Trailhead (AKA Trail Lake Ranch). We spent the night comfortably camping in the Lander City Park, where free camping is allowed. The following morning, we drove the second car up to Worthen Meadows Trailhead for the start of our hike on the Stough Creek Basin Trail. All in all, the trip was a great success. We completed 85% of my route, only being forced off the final high divide traverse due to bad weather. Day 1: We trudged up the trail out of Worthen Meadows burdened with 10 days worth of food on the Stough Creek Basin Trail. 10 days of food, we thought, would allow ample time to complete the route, while allowing for a few side trips and potential days spent in our tents due to bad weather. This all sounded good on paper, but the reality of a 10 day pack was a bit harsh once on our backs. Travel was slow. Day 1 was dominated by occasional views of Wind River Peak – the southernmost 13er in the range, and our objective as our first side trip.

First View of Wind River Peak

We followed the Stough Creek Basin Trail to the Middle Fork Trail. We walked the Middle Fork Trail west for 1.5 miles to the Ice Lakes Trail, which we followed to the short bushwhack up to our camp by a couple of small lakes at the base of Wind River Peak near the Deep Creek Lakes.

Ice Lakes Basin

Elk at a small Tarn on Ice Lakes Trail

Mosquitoes at our camp were fierce. The Winds are a granite range, known for bad mosquitoes. I personally do not venture into the Winds in July because of this. 2016 was a normal snow year in the Winds, but they had a really hot spring. Thus, I had calculated the mosquitoes would be past peak for our trip and brought a floorless tent without mosquito netting. I suffered this first night as a result of this choice. Fortunately, our camp at the end of day 1 was the only place on our whole route with bad mosquitoes. Day 2: We began day 2 with a climb of Wind River Peak. From its lofty summit, we could see north all the way to Gannet Peak (the highest peak in the range) some 80 miles north. A small glacier spilled into a glacial lake on its west slopes. The views of Temple Peak, Frozen Lakes, East out into the Wyoming desert, and NW along the spine of the range were stunning.

Wind River Peak Glacier

Temple Peak and Frozen Lakes

After a nice break on top, we descended to our camp and packed up to continue our journey. As a flatlander (home is Olympia, WA), I was reeling a bit from the altitude of these mountains. Although we had toyed with the idea of walking a high route along the divide proper to get into the Cirque of the Towers, I really had not yet had time to do sufficient acclimatization and was feeling the altitude, so we choose a lower elevation route on trail into the famous climbing mecca.

Cirque of the Towers

Day 3: As day 3 progressed, my body was showing clear signs of adjusting to the altitude, and travel started to become more enjoyable. Our first task was to exit Cirque of the Towers via Texas Pass. We did a pretty route that took us past Secluded Lake, and got to the top of the pass in a little over an hour, where we descended into the Shadow Creek drainage. The beauty of this drainage was invigorating, with our route descending a climbers trail past one beautiful alpine lake after the other.

Texas and Barren Lakes from Texas Pass

Billy's Lake

Shadow Lake

As we reached the trail to Pyramid Lake, we turned north and walked up this trail towards Midsummer Dome. Once we reached Pyramid Lake, we left the trail and turned west up towards the pass north of Midsummer Dome. We were now officially off trail and would stay that way pretty much for the rest of the trip, save for an occasional section of unmaintained trail, and the trail walk out on the last day.

Pyramid Lake

Joel at unnamed Lake in upper East Fork Drainage

From here, we contoured north to a unnamed small lake at the head of the East Fork drainage. Scenery here was amazing, and I so wanted to stay for a camp. My InReach device, however, showed weather coming in that night, and we did not want to go over the rocky pass north of Raid Peak when all the talus was wet, so we soldiered on over this pass to a camp in tundra on the other side just south of a small tarn.

Upper East Fork Drainage

Raid Peak Pass

Day 4: Joel woke me up at 2 AM to check out a line of thunderstorms that seem to be headed our way. I struggled to fall back to sleep, knowing this weather could force a zero day the next day if it manifested as the forecast predicted. I was also a little uncomfortable with the elevation of our camp. We were quite exposed, and I didn’t relish the idea of being stuck in my tent while lightning struck all around us. By 5 am, the storm was still not upon us, so we packed up quickly and scurried down the hill into the Bonneville Lakes drainage. By the time we got down to the lakes, it was beautiful sunny skies all around, and we thought we had been spared a weather day.

Ominous clouds from camp

Bonneville Lake

We went up and over the pass west of Sentry Peak above lake 10,828. An improbable route up a grassy ramp lead us through the cliffy lower sections and into the easier slabby sections above near the top. From the top of the pass, the beautiful drainage to the north containing Lee and Middle Form Lakes unfolded before us. Travel off the pass down into this drainage went reasonably well, after we traversed right off talus into easier tundra terrain. From here, we strolled down the tundra into the willows by the lakes, meeting a couple of other trekkers near the shores of Lee Lake. These would be the last humans we would see on our trip, save for one guy on a horse on our trail walk out on the last day.

Bonneville Lake Pass

Middle Fork Dranage

Shores of Lee Lake

Lee Lake Lunch Spot

We followed the outlet of Bewmark Lake straight up the hill to the lake, where we expected to connect onto the trail to Photographic Pass. We only found faint wisps of this trail – it has been mostly reclaimed by nature. Atop Photographic Pass, weather was upon us. Just as we began our descent, the rains came, along with copious amounts of hail and lightning. There was a rudimentary track through the steep talus down the back side of this pass, but it was not comfortable, especially in the rain. Recommended that you don’t plan to go over this pass in a rainstorm – doable, just not ideal.

Approaching Photographic Pass

As we crossed over onto the north side of Photographic Pass, the vibe of the landscape changed. It was clear that we had entered a very remote part of the range. Up until this time, we had been close enough to Big Sandy Trailhead to run into several people each day. On the north side of this pass, however, we had entered a place dominated by animal energy. The shift was palpable. As we got down off the steep part of the pass and onto the flats below, there were Elk scat and tracks everywhere. We didn’t see any Elk, but it was clear that this was their domain.

Photographic Pass from near our camp

By the time we got down off the pass and into the trees, we were cold and wet from the rains. It was still mid-afternoon, but we decided to quit early and set camp. We found a beautiful and sheltered spot underneath some big pine trees, and spent the rest of the afternoon napping to the sound of thunder booming down the valley walls – at least 3 more storms rolled though while we were napping comfortably in our tents. I slept remarkably well and deep that night. Day 5: The next morning dawned partly cloudy. We broke camp early and forged ahead. Today’s route took us up and over Europe Peak, and across the continental divide for several miles to the northwest to Hay Pass. It was a high and exposed route, and we were eager to get to Hay Pass before any weather hit. Although the map showed a couple of trails in this area, we found no such tracks, other than an occasional cairn. Navigation was via map and compass. We passed a number of beautiful lakes on our way up to the divide by Europe Peak.

Lake 10,563

Once on the divide, our first view of Europe Peak caused some anxiety – the NE face of the mountain, which was on our route, looked like a cliff. I had assumed that we could get from the pass at the head of Europe Canyon to the top of Europe Peak via the NE face, but this was based on a single sentence in a guidebook that implied that Europe Peak could be climbed this way. Undaunted, we forged ahead. As we got closer to the peak, the lighting changed and we noticed a narrow rib that descended along the NE face from the Europe Peak summit plateau down to the pass at the head of Europe Canyon. After traversing over to this pass, we started up this rib. It was basically a class 1-2 walk up, except for one short section of class 3 climbing. This exposed rib was actually a really fun climb, and we celebrated with a fist bump once we exited the rib onto the summit plateau.

Europe Peak

Europe Canyon

Looking SE from Europe Peak

After a brief side trip to the top of Europe Peak, our route took us across several miles of inspiring, Alaska-like terrain right on the continental divide.

Joel on the Divide

Alaska-like Continental Divide

We reached Hay Pass early afternoon, and started our descent north down the unmaintained Hay Pass trail. We found this trail relatively easy to follow, and walked it past the gorgeous, idyllic Golden Lakes up to Lake 10,787 by Douglas Peak.

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From here, we had a decision to make. Many other Wind River High Routes go over the pass west of Douglas Peak from here, and traverse on the west side of Alpine Lakes to Alpine Lakes Pass. On the map, this route certainly looks appealing, as it stays close to the divide and goes past a number of large lakes. The issue is that the travel is mostly on large, loose talus for the 4 miles to Alpine Lake Pass. One group we met relayed a story of a couple of trekkers taking 9 hours to cover this section, and saying that had they known what they were getting into, they would have chosen a different route. Well, I had a different route in mind. The real beauty of the Winds in my mind is the lakes. The best views in the range are not from the divide, but from the numerous alpine lakes looking back at the divide. In my mind, a route which stubbornly stays as close to the divide as possible through these mountains will miss much of their beauty. There is a place in the Winds called Shangra La that had called to me ever since I noticed it on the map – a collection of numerous alpine lakes south of the North Fork of Bull Creek. From the moment I had seen pictures of this place years ago, I had wanted to go. So, from lake 10,787, we diverted off the standard high route, and headed down the hill on an old unmaintained trail to a camp by Camp Lake on what we dubbed the trail to Shangra La. Day 6: If you decide to follow my route to Shangra La, route descriptions in Nancy Pallister’s excellent guidebook “Beyond Trails in the Wind River Mountains” may be of assistance. We followed an old abandoned trail for a couple of hours from our camp at Camp Lake this morning to “Talus Lake”. Note that it is not particularly easy to follow this trail. There were blazes on trees, but I didn’t see a single sawed log. It seems this old trail was never maintained – just built and then promptly abandoned. Successfully following this trail, however, is crucial to get to Shangra La. Somehow, it seems fitting that a cryptic, abandoned trail guards the route to Shangra La.

Morning at Camp Lake

A few routefinding tips of note: From Camp Lake, do not continue down the outlet drainage. Instead, cross the outlet just beyond the lake at an old dilapidated bridge and climb west up and over a ridge to get to a series of small lakes shown of the map NW of Camp Lake. Follow the drainage containing these lakes down until you connect with the stream coming down from Lake 10,895 above. Follow this stream down until it turns into a small pond. At the outlet of this pond, climb up and away from the stream to get into the valley formed by the outlet stream coming down from Snowbridge Lake. You’ll cross this stream on another dilapidated bridge if you are on route. From here, climb NE through wooded terrain to Talus Lake, at around 10,520 ft.

Talus Lake

Parklands at the head of Bull Lake Creek

From Talus Lake, look NE and you can spy a knobby ridge-like feature rising up out of the meadows in front of you. From here, you are cross-country, circling around that knob to the south, where you can gain a grassy slope leading up to unnamed Peak 12,431 (really just a high point on a ridge). This route is what Nancy calls the “Goat Friendly high Route”. Views from this high route were phenomenal, as were the views as we descended into the Shangra La lake basin. From the summit of peak 12,431, you can pick up a series of cairns that lead you down into Shangra La.

Goat Friendly High Route View

Goat Friendly High Route View

Descending into Shangra La

As we came down off this “peak” into the Shangra La lake basin, a beautiful spring greeted us as if to say, “Welcome to Shangra La.” Once down into this basin, we did not see a single sign of humans – no old fire rings, no old camps, no cairns, no human trails, no litter. Shangra La did not disappoint - it is well named. We walked past beautiful lakes on mostly rolling tundra. A glacial remnant was visible clinging to the cliffs SW of green glacial-fed Lake 10,790, while the Wind River high point Gannet Peak peeked out over the lakes above Backpacker Pass north of aptly-named Turret Peak. The wildness of this place felt like medicine for my Soul. If you go, you will most certainly have this beautiful area (some of the most remote and beautiful lakes in the Winds) all to yourself.

Shangra La Lakes

We descended west through Shangra La into the Knifepoint Creek drainage. This creek flows off the Knifepoint glacier, so don’t expect to cross it and keep your feet dry. We had to cross three separate branches of this creek, the middle one knee deep and fast moving. From here, we headed NW up and over a pass, past three tarns, and descended down to where we had a great view of the North Fork of Bull Lake Creek.

Crossing Knifepoint Creek

Knifepoint Creek and Glacier

Tarn above North Fork Bull Lake Creek

Upper Reaches of North Fork Bull Lake Creek

As I caught my first glance into the North Fork of Bull Lake Creek, my heart skipped a beat. The upper area of the North Fork of Bull Lake Creek is truly one of the most beautiful sights in the Winds. The creek here is massive, as it drains both the Helen and Sacagawea Glaciers. A milky, glacier fed stream flowing through colorful landscape with towering craggy peaks rising above is enough to soften the heart of even the most hardened traveler. The descent down into the North Fork of Bull Lake Creek was steep on large talus/boulders, and as we descended, we noticed a big bull elk trotting away from us up the valley. Shockingly, we found a pretty good trail through this boulder field which promptly ended as we got off the steep slope. The work required to build this trail must have been enormous. Who built the trail, and why? My guess is it was built by NOLS groups, as I bet they travel this way often. Once down into the valley, we began searching for an easy spot to cross the North Fork of Bull Lake Creek. This creek is substantial. We moved to the wide part of the stream where the crossing was maybe 100 feet wide and still knee deep if you took the best path. Needless to say, our camp that night on ledges above the Helen Glacier outflow was one of the most beautiful I have ever had. I feel blessed to have spent a night in this beautiful, remote place.

Crossing North Fork of Bull Lake Creek

Helen Glacier Outflow

Helen Glacier Outflow

Day 7: The next morning, we broke camp early and headed 2,000 ft. up and over talus and boulder strewn Blaurock Pass. This was not an easy pass - we took 3 solid hours to get over it and down to the Glacier Trail at the head of the Dinwoody drainage.

Sunrise from just above our camp

Morning Light as we begin climb to Blaurock Pass

Blaurock Boulder

From whence we had come, from near top of Blaurock Pass

Gannet Peak from Blaurock Pass

Gannet Peak on Descent from Blaurock Pass

Elk Lake

Once on the other side, we ran a weather forecast on my InReach device and the news was not good. Weather incoming this afternoon, and heavy rain again for the next two days. The route ahead was high and exposed, averaging 12,000 ft for miles right along the divide with no protection from electrical storms. We needed good weather for this section, and unfortunately, we were not getting it. Secondly, to access this high divide traverse, we needed to cross and descend the Gannet Glacier. From what we could see of the Dinwoody Glacier, the glaciers were not in good shape – much ice exposed and very broken up. All we had was trekking poles and Kahtoola Microspikes. Looking at the condition of the Dinwoody Glacier, we were a bit stressed with the thought of descending, and especially exiting, the Gannet Glacier on the route ahead. Had we had a good forecast, we would have certainly gone up and checked it out. But the idea of dealing with glacier stress and survival stress from inclement weather up high on the divide was a bit much. At this point in the trip, we were both feeling weary from all the challenging terrain we had traversed, and the thought of heading up into lightning storms was not at all appealing. The fun/suffering ratio for this final segment seemed to be setting up to be well under 1. As a result, we made the decision to walk out on the Glacier Trail.

Glacier Trail

Gannet Peak from Floyd Wilson Meadows

We were initially disappointed, but as the thunderstorms came that afternoon, and again in the morning the next day as we drove home, we knew we made the right decision. Unfortunately, the Glacier Trail is 25 miles long, and includes a 2,000 ft climb up and over Goat Flat. So we had to walk out 25 miles on trail to get to a trailhead that is 9 miles up a forest road that leads to a paved road that takes you into a tiny town (Dubois) in the middle of nowhere. This gives you a little idea how remote these mountains, and this high route, are. The 25 miles did not go fast, as my feet were quite sore by this point in the trip. After a big pass and 25 miles of trail, we stumbled by headlamp into the Trail Lake Ranch trailhead at 11 pm where our car was waiting. At the end, I was tired, and my feet and body were sore, but my spirit was soaring from the memories of the places we had traveled through. Truly, this mountain range is a blessing to those seeking to infuse a little wildness into their soul. May the Wind Rivers (and us human beings) remain forever free and wild!

Cresting out on Goat Flat on the trail out

[awilsondc]

Wow! What a trip! Awesome report, and thanks for posting that caltopo link. This will help anyone considering such a trip immensely. Nice photos too. I'm glad you had such a good time.

[RichP]

Bravo! Superb report on a special part of the world.

[Distel32]

currently our number one choice for our fall trip. Thanks for posting.

[MLHSN]

Thanks for the report! Always wanted to visit the Wind River Range.

[Cascade Dan]

Nice report, we have hiked all of those routes over the 20 years except for Stough Creek Drainage. You did quite well, some tough sections, esp Blaurock.

[cefire]

Awesome!!

[Jim Dockery]

Most excellent!

[Snowdog]

Really nice TR! I've been reading some blogs of other trips in the Winds- yours did not disappoint!

[Bedivere]

Thanks much for this thorough and most excellent report! I'm planning to head there for a week in '18 and this is great beta.

[Stefan]

I totally agree with you. The Winds are most fabulous at the lake level looking at the mountains!

[Anish]

Great report Doug! Makes me miss that area very much. Sounds like an incredibly scenic and challenging trip. Definitely on my list.

[Magellan]

Trip report of the year! Thanks for taking the time to write it up.

[Jaberwock]

WHoa!!! I'm headed there next week!

[Earthbound]

Thanks for the kind words everyone. It was an amazing trip. Needless to say, I'm going back next year to explore that northern section we missed, and climb Gannet.