[aero8991]

hey all, I'm going to be moving out West to the Seattle area this spring and am looking into getting into some mountaineering. I'd like to climb Mount Baker and Mount Rainier this summer. Would anyone be interested in joining me in the expeditions ? Thanks! Dan

[christensent]

If you haven't done glacier travel before, I'd suggest taking a course in it and ideally a guided climb of one of the mountains you listed (unless you have friends who are very experienced and willing to teach you). Get some crevasse training under your belt and people will be much more likely to take you on climbing trips. Although it's been known to happen, inexperienced people generally are not successful at finding others on internet forums to take them from the ground up in any area of climbing. Sorry, but that's just the truth of it.

[aero8991]

Hey Christen, Thanks for your input. I've been up on Rainer before and in its crevasses and am familiar with parts of the climb.

[williswall]

Finding climbing partners should not be an easy process; it is doubtful you will get any serious responses here with the information you have provided. I'm not sure what "I've been in its crevasses and am familiar with parts of the climb" mean. Have you taken any mountaineering courses? Do you have experience in roped travel? Are you familiar with rescue techniques? What is your experience? Personally I have never "been in a crevasse" but once, and that was purposeful; to practice high angle ice climbing where we could walk to the bottom of the cliff and belay from above. Finding out your climbing partner is incompatible, inexperienced, or inept should not come to light on a serious climb, so if you provide your background more with the intent of checking out persons or groups face to face and look to lesser objectives before committing to Rainier I believe you will have much more success in your search.

[steffenwolf]

Hey aero, Was wanting to climb Rainier myself this summer but wanted to avoid the high cost of the guide services, although I live in OK and don't know anyone out there and they don't allow solo climbing without experience, of which I have none. Plus all the guide services are booked up anyway and apparently they don't allow locals to guide independently for a lower cost. So basically I'm looking for ropemates with at least a little experience ideally, although I'm not too concerned about having any trouble. I would also consider doing Baker first and then hitting Rainier a day or two later to maximize my time out there. Another problem with booking concrete dates with a guide service and coming from OK is the weather. I don't want to be forced to climb in crappy weather or worse be shut out completely and out a grand or two, so I felt like getting with locals would be the way to go as I would fly out with dates in mind but be flexible with my return date so weather wouldn't be a concern, especially with not knowing the routes. My background is as follows: 49 yrs old, 6'1"-220 in very good shape with no medical concerns, married, two grown boys. Have been an avid advanced level resort skier for 20 years. Recently have taken an interest in mountaineering/alpine climbing as well as backpacking and hiking. Got Avi. I cert. last spring, along with mountaineering, climbing, and backcountry skiing classes. Will be attending crevasse and ice anchor classes this spring as well. Climbed 6 14ers in 5 days last summer, including Longs Peak and Pikes twice, once with heavy pack. Have logged a number of miles on multi day backpacking trips carrying 50 lbs or so up and down 600-700 ft. ridges on loose rocky steep trails in extreme heat with no issues. Also have never had any altitude problems. That includes about 50 CO and NM ski trips, many times driving all night (as in me driving the whole way every trip, not riding and sleeping unfortunately) from flatland OK and grabbing 1st chair (or at least close) and skiing all day. Had only 1 day to acclimatize on my 14ers trip last summer as well and no issues whatsoever. Looking to gain experience quickly and move on to Mexican volcanoes, Canada, McKinley, Aconcagua, Nepal (some of this might depend on whether or not I win the lottery:). Probably TMI but want to give a complete picture to whomever is considering teaming up with me. Let me know how this sounds and get back with me. (Also considering booking a Baker trip with a local guide service if things don't materialize soon. $885 for 3 day Emmons or Coleman trip with 2-1 client to guide ratio but can get down to $620 with a 4-1 ratio if I can find 2 more members)

[steffenwolf]

Correction: Easton not Emmons. Getting my glaciers and mountains mixed up.

[kdenn]

Just saw the request from a number of you wanting to climb Mt. Rainier this summer 2017. I'm looking for a small group myself. I climbed Rainier in 2009. My partner and I made it to Camp Muir, but the ranger suggested not to go further b/c of really bad weather and there were only two of us. I have plenty of climbing experience having climbed all 55 of Colorado's 14er's (many numerous times.) Have done several winter climbs using all required equipment. Member of CO Mountain Club. Climbed Mt. Hood, St. Helen's w/snow, six CA 14er's including 4x up Whitney in one day each (two on the mountaineer's route.) Did this group come together and can I possibly join it? Thanks, Kevin

[steffenwolf]

Hey kevin, havent heard back from aero but have another local guy that's interested and serious and has made it up before and has a little other glacier experience. Only problem for him is he has to do it on a weekend due to lack of vacation time which brings the weather factor into play for me coming from OK. He did mention possibly doing it in a long day which I would be ok with on a 14er in summer but having no glacier/winter travel experience I have no way to gauge what kind of speed I'll have in crampons with heavy boots on that surface with a somewhat heavy pack for possibly having to overnight or unexpected bad weather. Got an email from another fellow who is going twice with a group, once in early July and again in Aug who was looking for one more guy. My ideal situation would be to come out and hike up and down for a few days to acclimatize then climb it in 2 days with one night camping closer to top than muir. Leaving an open ended return date to stay flexible for the best weather as well as possibly climbing baker as well a few days later, with or without partners if possible. Let me know your thoughts. SM

[kdenn]

Steffenwolf, I'm interested, but would prefer to hike to Camp Muir part of the day, rest there for a few hours, then head to the summit the same night, if possible. Let's keep in touch on this and see how it goes. Thanks, Kevin

[steffenwolf]

Well like I said, the other guy I'm talking to about it wants to "one day it" and I'm game to try, just not sure how much slower I'll be in crampons. I hear on average it takes 4-5 hrs to Muir from Paradise then another 6-8 to top then 3 or 4 to get down. Add 2 hrs rest in and you're looking at 15-19. 3am start puts you back before dark best case and 10pm worst, although the few hrs in the dark would be on the easier/safer lower part obviously. The only comparison I have is Pikes last summer which took me 13:45 to complete with about an hour to eat/rest on top. The elev gain is similar and the distance is significantly shorter on Rainier by about 7 or 8 miles but walking in light hikers, shorts and tshirt, with a very light pack in ideal temps makes a big diff timewise I'm sure compared to the gear involved on Rainier, specifically the heavier packs in order to carry tent, pads, bags, stove, food, extra warm clothing, etc., in the event we had to overnight due to fatigue or bad weather, along with the huge difference in winter boots and crampons versus basically tennis shoes. I know from reading some posts, as I'm sure you know as well since you've been to Muir, that light hikers can be worn on first leg up to a certain point and extra gear can be stowed along the way for summit push if weather looks good and everyone is feeling strong. Getting my boots and crampons in a few weeks and will be testing them out in RMNP with a moderate pack to see how I move. I'll touch base or let me know any other thoughts or concerns you have. Steffen

[williswall]

This schedule has worked out in the past for me. I started from Paradise around 5 PM, took a quick break at Camp Muir then we headed to Ingraham Flats. We took a longer break there but we had no tent, no sleeping bags and no pads...I huddled in a bivy bag on top of my pack and boots. Then we got going before the guided troops came by, tagged the summit, and descended to Paradise in one shot. Took us 20 hours with the breaks. I've seen parties take upwards of 6 hours just to make Muir when carrying multi day loads, totally knackered by the time they got there. Going lighter without the overnight gear makes a big difference, especially above 12,000 feet. If you're in shape then you can just motor for hours on end and enjoy the sunrise on top.

[steffenwolf]

That's good info, willis. Wouldn't have thought about trying that schedule but I see how it makes sense. Considered a bivy bag but have no experience with them so was a little apprehensive simply due to a worst case scenario of bad weather firing up for an extended period and not being able to get out of the wind/snow to melt ice if water ran out or make a little hot food. Also was trying to avoid the most hazardous stretches in the dark. Did you have sun before you reached that point? Thanks, Steffen

[williswall]

[christensent]

[steffenwolf]

Thanks for the info. Appreciate any suggestions. It just seems with a 3pm start you'd be summiting in the middle of the night and if you went quick it wouldn't be getting light until nearing return to Paradise. Just basing it off the estimated times I mentioned that I saw on Alan Arnette's website. Are those estimates not accurate?