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cartman Member
Joined: 20 Feb 2007 Posts: 2800 | TRs | Pics Location: Fremont |
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cartman
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Thu Jan 12, 2017 7:01 pm
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I can't recall any route up that mountain that doesn't cross avalanche slopes up high to get to the true summit.
There is currently a plan to do this peak tomorrow, so need some first hand info ASAP. Avalanche forecast is Considerable today in all regions of the Cascades; there has just been another avalanche fatality yesterday at Crystal due to a wind slab release.
EDIT: Apparently the fatality was from last week, and the caution warning on NWAC refers to that accident.
The USGS map erroneously shows trees going up almost to the summit of Lichtenberg on the west side of the true summit peak (per my memory, having been up the east side to the summit and via Yodelin to the false southern summit); I recall that being mostly open--and looking like a pretty good ski slope--when viewed from the south peak. Am I recalling that correctly?
The eastern approach I did in Nov snow via Lichtenwasser Lake a couple of years ago I know is not avalanche safe, requiring dropping off a ridge that did not appear to be climbable to the summit and booting across a quite steep open slope above a bowl; TR here.
Another variation on the Lichtenwasser Lake approach also appears to cross open slopes according to pics in these TRs here and here.
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Walkinaround Member
Joined: 11 Jun 2016 Posts: 66 | TRs | Pics
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cartman wrote: | I can't recall any route up that mountain that doesn't cross avalanche slopes up high to get to the true summit.
There is currently a plan to do this peak tomorrow, so need some first hand info ASAP. Avalanche forecast is Considerable today in all regions of the Cascades; there has just been another avalanche fatality yesterday at Crystal due to a wind slab release.
The USGS map erroneously shows trees going up almost to the summit of Lichtenberg on the west side of the true summit peak (per my memory, having been up the east side to the summit and via Yodelin to the false southern summit); I recall that being mostly open--and looking like a pretty good ski slope--when viewed from the south peak. Am I recalling that correctly?
The eastern approach I did in Nov snow via Lichtenwasser Lake a couple of years ago I know is not avalanche safe, requiring dropping off a ridge that did not appear to be climbable to the summit and booting across a quite steep open slope above a bowl; TR here.
Another variation on the Lichtenwasser Lake approach also appears to cross open slopes according to pics in these TRs here and here. |
Hey, I ski toured up there last weekend via the lake to ridge route and could possibly help you out with some beta. Drop me a line on here if you want to talk further. Can't tell from your post if your planning to hike or tour the mtn. Let me know.
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ale_capone Member
Joined: 22 Sep 2009 Posts: 717 | TRs | Pics
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Yes, you are correct on the west route.There are very few trees for the last several hundred feet. It's often way windier at that point. Open slopes Could be scoured or loaded.. often cross loaded. large terrain trap gulley below.
Ive been up there a ton of times, but not this year, and don't know the current forecast. But my friends set off some wind slabs nearby yesterday.. I wouldn't recommend it as a summit route if you have concerns. The exposure is up high, and the consequence pretty big..
Not sure of any other routes, that's the only way I've been up.
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hikersarenumber1 Member
Joined: 21 Apr 2015 Posts: 466 | TRs | Pics
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RichP Member
Joined: 13 Jul 2006 Posts: 5628 | TRs | Pics Location: here |
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RichP
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Thu Jan 12, 2017 10:55 pm
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AlpineRose Member
Joined: 08 May 2012 Posts: 1953 | TRs | Pics
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mbravenboer Member
Joined: 20 Oct 2013 Posts: 1422 | TRs | Pics Location: Seattle |
Jeff wrote: | Another death in addition to the one last week at crystal? |
I'm not sure, but I think this is a confusion about the NWAC statement from last week. It was still on the website, and was a bit ambiguous now it is Thursday again. I could not find reports of other fatalities anywhere.
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cartman Member
Joined: 20 Feb 2007 Posts: 2800 | TRs | Pics Location: Fremont |
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cartman
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Fri Jan 13, 2017 7:27 am
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RichP wrote: | The avy forecast has improved to moderate |
I saw that. It should make no difference whether to attempt that peak in the current conditions. I think it's highly unlikely that consolidation and stability have improved dramatically in the last 12 hours given the subfreezing temps. Add to that the multiple reports of a variable and reactive snowpack this week, and the choice of destination not far from a major pass where winds can be more unpredictable leading to potential wind-loading on any aspect.
But they went anyway.
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DIYSteve seeking hygge
Joined: 06 Mar 2007 Posts: 12655 | TRs | Pics Location: here now |
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DIYSteve
seeking hygge
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Fri Jan 13, 2017 8:14 am
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Consolidation during a cold spell in January? Of course not per the definition of "consolidation" usually used with reference to Cascade snowpack (sintering + settling resulting in a significant enhanced stabilization of snow pack). ETA: The term "consolidation" is often used to refer to the spring consolidation when the snowpack becomes isothermic.
Settling? Some.
Buried weak layer(s) somewhere on the route? Very likely.
Wind loading resulting in wind slab formation? Yes (ale capone is solid info source).
Would it be a reasonable calculated risk for a party with experience and avy assessment chops to head up there, make assessments (e.g., pits, block tests, etc.), take proper procedures and make the decision en route whether or not to proceed? Maybe.
Given recent snowfall and temperatures, is there a "safe" route up without the foregoing assessment and procedures by someone with avy assessment training, knowledge and skills. No.
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Stefan Member
Joined: 17 Dec 2001 Posts: 5085 | TRs | Pics
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Stefan
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Fri Jan 13, 2017 9:52 am
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I have done the NE Ridge in winter. The NE Ridge from Lichtenwasser Lake is avalanche free and wide enough to avoid cornices most of the time.
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Just_Some_Hiker Member
Joined: 02 Jan 2013 Posts: 691 | TRs | Pics Location: Snoqualmie, WA |
Stefan wrote: | I have done the NE Ridge in winter. The NE Ridge from Lichtenwasser Lake is avalanche free and wide enough to avoid cornices most of the time. |
Yeah...snowshoe/skin up the forested slope NE of Lichtenwasser Lake and then get on top of the ridge. Follow to summit. I've done this trip several times in the winter and did not feel there was any significant avalanche danger. Confused by some of the replies here.
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ale_capone Member
Joined: 22 Sep 2009 Posts: 717 | TRs | Pics
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^^
I was only speaking of approaching/climbing the west face route, via yodelin, answering this particular question.
"The USGS map erroneously shows trees going up almost to the summit of Lichtenberg on the west side of the true summit peak (per my memory, having been up the east side to the summit and via Yodelin to the false southern summit); I recall that being mostly open--and looking like a pretty good ski slope--when viewed from the south peak. Am I recalling that correctly? "
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