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ivhokie12
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PostTue Feb 28, 2017 1:47 pm 
NW Hikers, Thanks for providing this great site. I am looking to come up to the Olympic Peninsula either in late July to early August. We should have a week, and unfortunately that just isn't enough time to do everything that we want to do. A little information about me, I am an east coaster who has significant backpacking experience on the Appalachian Trail, but nothing like the elevation changes that I am seeing out there, and I don't have experience hiking on glaciers/crampons/ice axes. That said I want to bite off as much as I can relatively safely. After a lot of research I thought that NF Quinault to Skyline Loop seems like the ticket. The NF Quinault seems very easy so that will likely be the first one and a half days or so out. I was also thinking about doing a side trip from Low Divide to Mt. Christie. Is that really doable for someone with my relative experience? Wednesday/Thursday/Friday would be Skyline Trail days. I hear that water can be a problem on that section. How much water do you typically take? I usually stick to 2 liters, but could bring as much as 4. I typically only drink from streams/springs, but I assume I'm going to have to get used to drinking out of some of the tarns. I'd appreciate any info you guys can provide!

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RumiDude
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PostTue Feb 28, 2017 2:06 pm 
ivhokie12 wrote:
I was also thinking about doing a side trip from Low Divide to Mt. Christie. Is that really doable for someone with my relative experience?
Well as many would say, that depends. hahaha It depends on your comfort level. A rule of thumb is to never climb something you can't climb down. So as you scramble up, you be looking down and asking yourself if you can get back down this same way. In other words it is easier to climb up than to climb down, so you have to self monitor your comfort level.
ivhokie12 wrote:
Wednesday/Thursday/Friday would be Skyline Trail days. I hear that water can be a problem on that section. How much water do you typically take? I usually stick to 2 liters, but could bring as much as 4. I typically only drink from streams/springs, but I assume I'm going to have to get used to drinking out of some of the tarns.
I am trying to remember what I carried with me on this section, but I am thinking two liters is plenty. Rumi

"This is my Indian summer ... I'm far more dangerous now, because I don't care at all."
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ivhokie12
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PostTue Feb 28, 2017 2:17 pm 
Thanks Rumi. I'm mostly concerned about route finding and mountaineering skills moreso than physical fitness being in my mid 20s although ability to get down is a concern too. My understanding is that there aren't really any marked trails going up and it is really up to you to find the best way to get there. I also don't know if I'm going to need ice axes + ropes or if it is just a strenuous hike. Also I should probably note that my backup if this is too difficult is Enchanted Valley to O'Neils/Anderson Pass. Come out the NF of the Skok and take 6 ridge back to Graves Creek. While that seems like a great trip, I'm not sure if it is enough high country to get my adrenaline going as much as I would like. As far as Mt. Christie goes, I'm really looking at that in particular thanks to its proximity to low divide. If anyone has a suggestion for another Summit from Low Divide I'd be interested. Out of curiosity, how often is there actually a Ranger at the Station? I'm assuming at least most of the summer.

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JonnyQuest
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PostTue Feb 28, 2017 2:57 pm 
I'll add my thoughts and opinions. First, water should be no problem. You should find plenty along the NF Q, at Low Divide, in Seattle Basin, at Lake Beauty, and even along the ridge from there to Kimta and beyond. Carrying two liters should be more than adequate - just fill when the opportunity presents itself. My preference is to do the Skyline in a clockwise direction, in that I find the NF Q trail somewhat underwhelming and I like to blitz it out in a long day. Don't get me wrong - it's still a nice (albeit a bit rocky) trail with big trees, moss, and a wilderness river adjacent. But since we here in the PNW wander river valleys all year 'round, in summer months I prefer to spend as much time in the high country as possible. On the Skyline, I'd recommend a couple of nights up on the ridge between Kimta and Seattle Creek basin. Lake Beauty is the "go-to" spot you'll see in guides. It's very nice, but you might not have it to yourself. I also like to spend the night up on the ridge SW of Lake Beauty. Some great views of the Valhalla's from there! I also prefer clockwise as it provides the experience of hiking "into the mountains" while in high country, "out of" the mountains in the valley. And the hike in clockwise to 3 Lakes Basin or just beyond to Elip basin isn't a bad first day. Again, just my preference. As for exploration from Low Divide, I can't comment. I usually arrive late, get some sleep, and then start my long day down the NF Q trail. After coming out of the high country of the Skyline or Bailey's, I usually don't feel inspired to linger at the Low Divide.

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ivhokie12
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PostTue Feb 28, 2017 3:34 pm 
Thanks for the info. The main reason I thought the opposite direction was the way to go is to slowly build up to the high country. Give it an illusion of being farther away than it really is. I do agree that I want to spend as much time up there as possible. I'll definitely think about going it the other direction though. At least we will be fresh during the hard part.

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RumiDude
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PostTue Feb 28, 2017 4:23 pm 
ivhokie12 wrote:
Out of curiosity, how often is there actually a Ranger at the Station? I'm assuming at least most of the summer.
Almost never! Seriously, I have only seen a ranger there once and I used to go up there a lot.
ivhokie12 wrote:
Also I should probably note that my backup if this is too difficult is Enchanted Valley to O'Neils/Anderson Pass. Come out the NF of the Skok and take 6 ridge back to Graves Creek. While that seems like a great trip, I'm not sure if it is enough high country to get my adrenaline going as much as I would like.
That would be a great trip, but be aware the Six Ridge is mostly dry and is a real steep trek up there from either end. It is amazingly beautiful and you will likely not see another soul up there. OTOH, Enchanted Valley will be crowded. This trip is challenging compared to the other trip because of the miles and that climb from Big Log on N Skok up to Six Ridge. But it is beautiful country all the same. Rumi

"This is my Indian summer ... I'm far more dangerous now, because I don't care at all."
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ivhokie12
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PostTue Feb 28, 2017 6:23 pm 
Yeah. I haven't heard fantastic things about six ridge, but I figure its either that, hitchhike, or road walk.

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RumiDude
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PostTue Feb 28, 2017 6:31 pm 
I love going up Six Ridge, but it is a tough haul going up. YMMV Because you would have it to yourself, it is kinda special, IMO. Rumi

"This is my Indian summer ... I'm far more dangerous now, because I don't care at all."
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ivhokie12
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PostTue Feb 28, 2017 6:35 pm 
That is true, and one thing I'm really looking forward to with this trip. There really isn't any true wilderness left in the southeast. The AT is great, but its pretty rare to have a campsite to yourself let alone a trail to yourself.

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ivhokie12
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PostTue Feb 28, 2017 6:43 pm 
If you had never been to ONP before and may not again for a long time, which trip would you do?

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bobbi
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PostTue Feb 28, 2017 6:43 pm 
the snowfall this winter is over the top. snowmelt along the skyline trail may take awhile, so in July the moonscape area may still be under snow. there's really no trail per se in this section (moonscape), mostly marked by cairns. be prepared to find your way by means of gps, compass, map. cross your fingers that there may be others to break trail! most hikers start along the quinault, mostly because of the fording of the river. best to cross early in the day when the water level is lower. we started at Big Creek. btw: i thought i read that the Big Creek bridge was down, so ... here's my trip report ... https://www.nwhikers.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8012428

bobbi ૐ "Today is your day! Your mountain is waiting. So…get on your way!" - Oh, the Places You’ll Go! By Dr. Seuss
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gb
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PostTue Feb 28, 2017 7:10 pm 
bobbi wrote:
he snowfall this winter is over the top. snowmelt along the skyline trail may take awhile, so in July the moonscape area may still be under snow. there's really no trail per se in this section (moonscape), mostly marked by cairns. be prepared to find your way by means of gps, compass, map. cross your fingers that there may be others to break trail! most hikers start along the quinault, mostly because of the fording of the river.
I'd re-iterate what Bobby said. My guess would be from how you described yourself that you don't have that much route finding experience. While the Skyline trail is not difficult and the route makes sense as to where it goes, it isn't exactly well marked in the Kimtah Peak area - at least it wasn't twenty years ago. And there is the one river ford - could be an issue for you if the snowpack is deep still in late July. Unless I'm reading your experience wrong, I'd suggest the Hoh to Glacier meadows and up to Hoh Lake and out the Soleduck or a hike to O'Neil Pass via either the Dosewallips (5 mi road walk) or via the Quinault and Enchanted Valley.

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meck
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PostTue Feb 28, 2017 7:20 pm 
I did that NF Quinalt-Skyline loop counterclockwise two summers ago (I think) in mid August during a super-dry year. I went pretty fast that year (was in better shape then), 4 days for the loop, one of which was exploring Martin Park/Ponds and heading down to the Elwha and back up to bag that section of trail. I think 5 or six days on the loop would be good. Here's my 2 cents (or maybe $2) and a few photos from my loop. 1. I concur with Johnny Quest and RumiDude (and bobbi and GB). Clockwise is probably better from the mtn views standpoint (my last two days were in the fog and forest fire smoke from the Queets Valley so I did not see much anyways going CCW) but CCW is OK too, and I picked that direction for the same reason you were considering it (faster travel in to LD). 2. Though I was able to power on up the NF Quinault trail to Low Divide in ~8.5 hours on a blistering hot day (it is well graded trail), I think its good that you're allowing yourself a day and a half to reach Low Divide (if you go CCW). One day would probably be more than fine if exiting via the NF Quinalt trail. Be aware, you will have to ford at least one, maybe two creeks and the river, I don't remember them being any problem, but it was also a dry year. The camps at Low Divide are AOk, but it'd be better to hit it in the daylight to make finding a spot easier. It could be semi-crowded depending on how many groups are crossing the LD at that time (lots of Boy Scout troops cross the Olys via Low Divide or Anderson Pass around that time of year). 3. I wanted to climb Mt. Christie (and by-golly I will do it some day!) but once I took a look at the planned route and glacier traversal up close, decided it would be better to climb it with a partner rather than solo. I highly recommend spending at least a couple of hours wandering around Martin's Park (it is also one of the approaches to Climb Christie). You can climb up on the lower reaches of the Christie glacier from there and get to check out some neat waterfalls & polished rock. If you climb the slopes to the highpoint east of the Martin Park "bowl", you get some good views of Delabarre and the Burke(?) range to the south and east. 4. The section of primitive trail from Low Divide and Kimta Peak has gobs of up and down, faces south (super hot in the sun), is a very thin trail, often almost goat path in several sections as I recall, ... and is also awesome. Allow lots of time to pick your way through this. Depending on the weather/temps I'd recommend having 3 liters of water on this section (as mentioned Seattle creek is a good spot to fill-up). The "moonscape" section is surreal, just don't try to navigate it in the dark, you will easily miss the cairns!!! 5. When I visited Lake Beauty (amidst forest fire smoke) it was really low, growing algae, and had several piles of human faeces and TP around the shore (obviously someone did not understand the concept of a cat-hole). I'm sure its nice when filled with fresh water, I just wouldn't drink anything from it without filtering/water treatment. 6. Three Lakes and Three Prune camp were nothing special in my opinion,but still ok to pass through. Based on the terrain, mosquito gear (headnet & repellant) would be a must if you plan to stay in these camp though!! 7. If you have time, a sidetrip out to Mt Zindorf might be fun offtrail (I wished I'd taken the time to do it), also a quick scramble up Mt. Kimta (the true summit, not the viewpoint just off trail). Some Gear Notes, ...and yeah, you probably already know this since its the 10 essentials and you already backpack, but hey it never hurts to remind folks :-): 1. Bring Mosquito gear!! Headnets are awesome! Large brimmed hats and thin long sleeved shirts with repellent sprayed on them, rather than your skin, work great! 2. Assume you will be rained on, and could see temps down to the low 40s. Pack gear accordingly. 3. Assume you will be in complete sun in hot temps while exploring Martin Park and along the Skyline. Bring sun protection and sunglasses! Snow reflects brutally bright and will burn the underside of your chin and nose. 4. You will be in black bear and raccoon country (I saw three bears on my loop). A bear canister, however heavy, is worth it in my opinion to know that your food will be safe no matter where you choose to camp. 5. Filter your water, 'cause why risk ruining your trip? (or ruining your day two weeks later) 6. Paper Maps, compass, Altimeter, GPS: lower the risk of getting lost in the dark (especially on the primitive portion of the Skyline trail) and you will be able to identify peaks in the distance as a bonus! 7. Watch the weather in the weeks leading up to the trip and look for recent TRs. Micro-Spikes or some other foot traction could possibly be needed on the Skyline trail if we get more snow that sticks around that late (even into mid-late July some high trails and traverses can require traction and or crampons depending on the snow that preceding winter).

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JonnyQuest
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PostTue Feb 28, 2017 7:22 pm 
bobbi wrote:
best to cross early in the day when the water level is lower.
True. Considering this ford is about 4 miles down from Low Divide (and about 12 miles up from the trailhead), in later July & August, there's a lag in levels here compared to the normal diurnal snowmelt timing in the headwaters. It takes a good couple plus hours for the water to get here from up in the snowfields. Considering lowest flow at point of melt coincides with the cool morning temps of dawn, fording at this location should be fine mid to even somewhat late morning. This times well with a morning start coming the 4 miles down the NFQ from Low Divide. Or skip camping at the LD when coming out from Lake Beauty and just camp at the crossing. Per your trip report, it sounds like you went clockwise and camped here. Which worked well. Starting up the NF Quinault, you'd have to start really early and be a much faster hiker than I am to get here for a morning ford! I suppose you could camp somewhere prior and cross in the AM, but that would make the NFQ portion of the trip a two-day venture. Personally, I find timing this for a morning ford much easier coming down the NFQ.

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ivhokie12
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PostTue Feb 28, 2017 8:15 pm 
Thanks for the updates! It does make it a more challenging decision about which direction to do that loop (views vs scheduling) Same with Martin's lakes. Take a daypack up there, and make a judgement call at the time. I'm not familiar with the term route finding, but I think I have (some) experience. I know how to use a compass, and have enough experience to know where the logical place to put a trail. The AT is usually well marked enough that it isn't an issue, but some of the side trails are not as accommodating. Thankfully in places like Olympic there aren't nearly as many trees in the way which should make reading the landscape quite a bit easier.

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