Forum Index > Trip Reports > Press Traverse (N. Fork Quinault to Elwha via Low Divide) - 6/12/17
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jdk610
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PostFri Jun 16, 2017 9:26 am 
Earlier this week (6/12/17) we traversed the Olympic Mountains south to north, from the North Fork trailhead on the Quinault, to the Whiskey Bend trailhead on the Elwha. Trail conditions are described below. You can find a very brief history of the trail and more details about our trip here. North Fork Quinault: The first few hours on the trail were relatively mellow. We said good morning to a couple of frogs, and watched a giant bull elk crash through the brush. We attempted to keep our feet dry for the first few creek crossings, which was adorably naive in hindsight. Your feet are going to get wet on this route. Just embrace it. We finally embraced it ourselves at Wild Rose Creek, which was moving fast, but only 1-2 feet deep and approx 4-5 ft across. Next up was Elip Creek, which was also moving quickly, plus a little bit deeper and wider than Wild Rose.
Lindsay crossing Elip Creek. After Elip came the big one, the Quinault. The park website reported that the Quinault crossing was 4 feet deep and swift, but we hoped that by getting to the ford early in the morning we might find better conditions. No such luck. However, we did have a bit of luck in that two wilderness guides were camped near the ford with a group of kids. They didn’t feel comfortable crossing the river themselves with the kids in tow, but they’d seen a couple other folks make it across the day before. They showed us where the others had successfully crossed, and also gave us some tips for staying upright in such a swift current (face upstream, plant your poles far in front of you, crab-walk across). Lindsay and I both attempted to cross where the trail met the river, but the water was moving so quickly that our poles were shaking in the current, which definitely gave us pause. I decided to scout upstream, where the river braided, while Lindsay headed downstream to check out a potential log crossing, as well as get a sense of the consequences if one of us went in. She reported that the log crossing was unstable and the consequences of an accidental swim would be ugly, with several waterfalls downstream. After bushwhacking my way along a steep and crumbling slope approx 200 ft upstream, I came to the spot where the river looked the most shallow and wide, and I went for it. Slowly, carefully, I picked my way across, maintaining three points of contact with the river bottom at all times. At the deepest part of the ford, the river was up to my belly button. I was grateful for my trekking poles. When I made it to the other side I let out a little yelp of happiness and then ran back downstream to where Lindsay was waiting on the other side of the river. My legs were scratched and bleeding from the bushwhack, but thanks to the icy water my entire lower body was numb and nothing hurt. Now it was Lindsay’s turn. We thought about having her bushwhack upstream to where I had crossed, but it was a nasty route that carried the additional risk of sliding downslope into the river. We decided that the place where I crossed didn’t look that much shallower than the main channel, and so she would just go for it where she was. It turns out, my crossing point was definitely shallower than hers. We initially reported the ford as “tits deep” but upon closer examination of the pics, it looks like the main reason she was soaked up to her chest is because she was leaning forward into the current to maintain balance. Whatever. It was a gnarly crossing. There was a moment or two when I wasn’t sure she was going to make it. But Lindsay is nothing if not tough. She grit her teeth, put on her “ford face,” and managed to stay upright despite the best efforts of the Quinault.
Quinault ford It was pretty damn exhilarating to have us both safely on the other side! If I remember correctly, we threw our hands in the air and let out a cheer, followed by an awkward high five. Next up after the Quinault crossing was the Low Divide. The park website said there was snow starting at 2200 ft on the south side of the divide, and since the website had been so accurate about the Quinault crossing, we figured we’d be postholing in snow starting at exactly 2200 ft. As it turned out, we didn’t hit any snow at all until 2900 ft, and even then it was patchy and inconsequential. However, by mile 17 and 3400 ft, the trail was completely covered in snow. The snow was anywhere from 1 – 4 ft deep, moderately consolidated in the trees and soft and mushy in the open areas. The next 1-2 miles across Low Divide required some route-finding skills. We were glad for our GPS, as well as the faint tracks of a party who had gone before us. The snow was completely gone just past Lake Mary.
Still plenty of snow at Low Divide After making it across the Low Divide, the only potentially tricky part left was crossing the Elwha at Chicago Camp. We’d heard that a tree had come down across the Elwha and created a makeshift bridge, but we weren’t sure how big or stable the tree was, so we were mentally preparing ourselves for another swift and sketchy ford. When we reached the banks of the Elwha, we were pleasantly surprised. Here’s how you cross the Elwha this year: Climb up on giant can’t-miss log that recently fell across the river. Walk across log, stopping mid-way to lie down, bask in the sun, and stare at the river. Reluctantly get up, finish crossing, and continue on your way.
Crossing the Elwha – the exact opposite of our Quinault ford The rest of the trail down the Elwha to Whiskey Bend is in pretty great shape. There are some blowdowns and mud patches but everything is passable. Overall, a great trip with great company!

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Distel32
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PostFri Jun 16, 2017 10:01 am 
up.gif

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flatsqwerl
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PostFri Jun 16, 2017 10:21 am 
wow that Quinalt ford looks pretty serious!!

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edeezy
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PostFri Jun 16, 2017 10:37 am 
jdk610 wrote:
Here’s how you cross the Elwha this year: Climb up on giant can’t-miss log that recently fell across the river. Walk across log, stopping mid-way to lie down, bask in the sun, and stare at the river. Reluctantly get up, finish crossing, and continue on your way.
Crossing the Elwha – the exact opposite of our Quinault ford
That'll do

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wildernessed
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PostFri Jun 16, 2017 11:10 am 
up.gif They don't build bridges like that anymore.

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Brushbuffalo
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PostSat Jun 17, 2017 8:20 am 
Fine adventure nicely written and photographed. Congratulations!
jdk610 wrote:
Your feet are going to get wet on this route. Just embrace
Exactly. In my first trail race ever, the now-defunct Headwaters 50 Miler in Oregon, at the first stream crossing I stopped and removed my shoes and socks and carefully padded across. As I sat replacing the s and s, a group of runners came along and splashed across without even breaking stride. I muttered to myself "So that's how it's done!" On your long day I bet your feet were wet for the duration except the first bit (oh wait, you said that). agree.gif

Passing rocks and trees like they were standing still
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mbravenboer
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PostSat Jun 17, 2017 11:01 am 
Great report! I enjoyed reading the full version on your website. Very impressive. That ford eek.gif Not sure if that meetings the definition in the dictionary: "A ford is a shallow place in a river or stream where it is possible to cross safely without using a boat." wink.gif .

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bobbi
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PostSun Jun 18, 2017 8:40 am 
congratulations, ladies! enjoyed reading your full trip report! did you carry a satellite phone? (didn't read you gear list) I'm missing the red line section between Lakes Mary/Margaret and Chicago Camp! someday tongue.gif

bobbi ૐ "Today is your day! Your mountain is waiting. So…get on your way!" - Oh, the Places You’ll Go! By Dr. Seuss
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meck
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PostSun Jun 18, 2017 1:59 pm 
Brrr that crossing looks cold!!! Thank you for posting your TR and the conditions!

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jask
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PostSun Jun 18, 2017 2:15 pm 
I enjoyed reading your report and am glad you made it through. Around 25 years ago there was a wire strung across the Quinault which made the ford pretty easy. The next time we were there expecting to use it it was gone, but the water level let us cross without problem. And the time after that we just jumped from rock to rock and didn't even get our feet wet!

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jdk610
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PostSun Jun 18, 2017 7:14 pm 
Thanks guys, I'm glad the TR was helpful! bobbi, I carry a satellite messenger (Inreach Explorer)

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olderthanIusedtobe
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PostMon Jun 19, 2017 8:56 am 
Your river crossing reminds me of when I crossed the Suiattle. Mid thigh is okay even with swift water, but when it gets waist deep it does not feel very secure! Looks like a great trip. You completed it a bit faster than the original Press Expedition! hockeygrin.gif

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Forum Index > Trip Reports > Press Traverse (N. Fork Quinault to Elwha via Low Divide) - 6/12/17
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