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Mesahchie Mark A Lerxst
Joined: 10 May 2005 Posts: 700 | TRs | Pics Location: In Wonderland |
Climbed Klawatti Peak on Wednesday. Missed opportunity for Dorado Needle. See pics here
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Here's the report - thank you for your patience!
I had been looking for the opportunity to climb something big. Finally, weather and conditions seemed favorable to visit the NCNP. The goal was to climb Dorado Needle and Klawatti Peak. I got Huron to join me on the errand.
We left the Seattle area Tuesday morning and headed north to the Marblemount Ranger Station to get overnight permits. It was cloudy and raining the whole way. The wet continued as we drove to the Eldorado Creek TH on Cascade River Road. We put our trust in the forecast that the weather would break our way and headed up into the mists.
This would be a "kitchen sink" trip. We needed hiking gear, camping gear, glacier gear, and rock gear. Good thing we had all of Tuesday for the approach. By the time we reached Eldorado camp in the early evening, the only change in the weather was that the wind had picked up. We had the place to ourselves - a rarity!
And then, the weather did start to turn, and things were look up...
Weather Break Day 1 Eldorado Camp Eldorado Camp and Forbidden Logan
Wednesday morning, we were up before sunrise and ready to getting moving. The next objective was to move camp from Eldorado to Tepeh Towers, which would put us in good position to climb the peaks. In the hour it took to get to Tepeh Camp, the weather deteriorated. Suddenly, we found ourselves in a white out with gusty winds.
Wednesday Morning View Forbidden with Flair A Promising Start
Sticking to the plan to climb Dorado first, we took our time establishing camp. The wind threatened to blow the tent away to Stehekin, so securing our shelter was priority one. Then, we started to build a wind break out of snow. As the hours rolled by, the wind block grew into a snow fort. If we didn't have other plans, we could have built an igloo!
Tepeh Towers Klawatti Tepeh Camp Snow Fort Tent, Alt View
Sometime in the late morning, Huron decided to take a nap. I kept working on the fort, trying not think about our plans falling apart. When Huron got up from his nap, it was early afternoon and decision time. The white out had not lifted. We could bail, we could wait some more, or we could try for Klawatti. On to Klawatti!
On to Klawatti!
To our surprise, the weather was much better on the east side of the Tepeh Towers ridge. Still windy, still cloudy, but much more visibility. We slogged over to Klawatti Col, then contoured eastward to gain the South Face. I had previous experience with the route, stopped by a large moat two years ago. This time, it looked like it would go.
Approaching South Face
The slope is continuously steep. We got up the first section, to where the moat develops. The true South Face route was to the left, through rotten snow bridges. To our right was an inviting gully, solid snow. We went right and into adventure. About two thirds up the gully, we exited left to rock and climbed a dirty gully that essentially lead us away from the South Face and put us on the SE Ridge route.
Rotten Snow/Moat to South Face Snow gully route (taken) Actual South Face Route (not taken)
We worked our way under the ridge, staying on the south side. I could sense the summit was close - clouds were flying by overhead unimpeded. Up to this point, the terrain was solid class 3 scrambling. Then, we encountered what would be the crux of the climb - a blocky class 4/low class 5 section. I took the rope and made it through the crux, placing one cam for pro. Huron, watching from below, decided he had gone far enough. He was nursing a right arm injury (from prior to the trip) and had low confidence that he could rely on it in challenging conditions. Over the years, I've watched my friend on numerous occasions take on pitches that made me think twice, so for him to stop now, so close to the summit, takes a lot of guts and self-knowledge.
Crux
I secured the rope and scrambled up to the summit to claim my first Bulger peak in two years. It was bittersweet, leaving my partner behind, but it was also personal confirmation that I was "back". The summit area had 3 or 4 high points over 50 yards, so I touched them all. I didn't find a register, but I also didn't look very hard. I snapped as many pics as I could. It was 4:30 PM.
Summit Pic 1 Summit Pic 2 Towers and Tracks SE Ridge Rocking the Summit Bling Dorado Peakaboo
With reluctance, I left the summit and made my way back to where I left the rope. I built a rap station on the ridge and had Huron lower me, ala top rope, back to his location. I found out the hard way that alpine bod harnesses are not comfortable on rappel! From there, it was a tedious down climb back to the base of the route. Exhausted, we trudged back to Tepeh camp and the snow fort. The white out was still on, and a frosty wind chilled us to the bone. I was grateful to be back in my sleeping bag well before 9 PM.
Prepping to Down Climb Eldorado
Thursday morning, we woke early, but after sunrise. It was cold - temps easily in the 20's. And clear. Beautiful, sunny and clear. Dorado Needle looked so close...but given Huron's injury, it really never was in play. So, we bid farewell to this incredible landscape and headed home. It was hard for me to stop taking pics. Back at Eldorado, we saw that several parties had arrived Wednesday and all were now climbing that peak. I counted 11 climbers at one point. And, despite being dog-tired, we made great time returning to the car, arriving just minutes before noon. Mondo burgers and beers capped off this excellent trip.
Dorado Needle - So Close! Local Tower Action Tepeh Camp and Towers Morning Views Total Ecclipse Views East Ciao, Klawatti Climbers on Eldorado Glacier with a hint of Rainier The descent begins Access to ridge Cascade Pass J'Burg Log Bridge Home
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raising3hikers Member
Joined: 21 Sep 2007 Posts: 2344 | TRs | Pics Location: Edmonds, Wa |
one of my favorite areas, nice trip by leaving dorado needle, you have another reason to go back and visit that beautiful place
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Fletcher Member
Joined: 29 Jul 2009 Posts: 1870 | TRs | Pics Location: kirkland |
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Fletcher
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Sun Jun 25, 2017 10:46 am
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That is a rad place. I have to go back for Dorado Needle as well.
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Distel32 Member
Joined: 03 Jun 2014 Posts: 961 | TRs | Pics Location: Edmonds, WA |
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Distel32
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Sun Jun 25, 2017 11:06 am
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Yet Member
Joined: 23 Apr 2005 Posts: 2634 | TRs | Pics Location: Happily Ever After |
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Yet
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Sun Jun 25, 2017 1:53 pm
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MangyMarmot Member
Joined: 06 Apr 2012 Posts: 474 | TRs | Pics
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Cool trip. Awesome place!
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gray matter Member
Joined: 28 Oct 2008 Posts: 312 | TRs | Pics Location: Anacortes |
Great work, Mark. You've got me jonesing to get up there!
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awilsondc Member
Joined: 03 Apr 2016 Posts: 1324 | TRs | Pics
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Awesome trip! I'm glad I checked back in now that the report and pics are in! Wow!
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iron Member
Joined: 10 Aug 2008 Posts: 6392 | TRs | Pics Location: southeast kootenays |
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iron
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Tue Jun 27, 2017 8:52 am
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looks like the standard route for DN is still in...
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Mesahchie Mark A Lerxst
Joined: 10 May 2005 Posts: 700 | TRs | Pics Location: In Wonderland |
raising3hikers wrote: | one of my favorite areas, nice trip by leaving dorado needle, you have another reason to go back and visit that beautiful place |
I like the sentiment! Yes, I will be back
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