[williswall]

A Glacier Peak circumnavigation was the cherry of my orbits of the 6 PNW volcanoes. My daughter and I attempted it last year, but for various reasons we decided to turn back on day 2 and return to the vehicle to preclude my wife having to do a difficult bail out if it came to that. With vacation and good weather, including no fires, in hand, I drove to the Grasshopper Meadows campground on Thursday night; the road is closed for the two miles up to White River campground, so everyone parks here. I bedded down in my truck in anticipation of setting out early the next morning. Link to my blog writeup on this trip, different for a different audience. Day 1: Grasshopper Meadows to Little Giant Pass: 19.5 miles After exchanging emails with Luke (Distel32) I decided to do a CCW orbit, using the Buck Creek Trail (#789) for the turn to the north (Luke and Ben used the Spider Meadow/Lyman lake version). Since my hiking legs were somewhat sketchy, I decided to get the hard parts done first, then cruise on the PCT before tackling the Indian Creek trail on the last day. I set off at 6 AM, walking the closed road to the end of 6400, then Trail 1562 to Boulder Pass as I turned east. The first day is always easy in that everything is fresh and the body is starting with a clean sheet. The climb to Boulder Pass was enjoyable and people free, and I enjoyed fine weather along with this solitude as I surveyed my next destination, the Napeequa Valley and river crossing. Even from the heights one can tell the Napeequa is a special place, a broad plain with a wandering yet consistent river that is green without being overgrown with brush and trees. Despite having 5 days of food in my pack, I barely noticed it on my back as my total weight (with food and water) was only 16 pounds. This light load is welcome, especially on this descent from 6300’ to 4400’. When I reached the valley floor and surveyed the ford point it was evident that no searching was required, the gentle but broad waterway was but knee deep and I simply made a beeline straight for the opposite bank where the trail continued. It’s a short trip down the valley to the ascent point but incredibly serene. The trail was easy to follow and the grasses were gently swaying in the wind as I followed the river downstream. I can see why many choose the route from High Pass down to the Napeequa in their orbit, but that shortens the trip considerably (total mileage for my iteration is 110 miles) and I was so looking forward to walking the Chiwawa River road to Trinity…..not. Up until this point I had experienced bouts of outdoor euphoria, but that hid in a corner once I was on the climb to Little Giant Pass. This “trail” can hardly be called such, it’s basically a guide for scrambling up the Chiwawa Ridge for 2000’. As I climbed I noticed two parties camping in the Napeequa Valley, and didn’t think much of it until I talked to a party of 3 the next day who camped below me at Little Giant. They said in 30 years of camping in the Napeequa prior to this year, they had only seen 4 other people. Counting the party of 3 that crossed paths with me descending, that would make about 9 just that day. I managed to finish that bit of scrambling up to Little Giant and, having no particular plan, I decided to set up camp for the evening at an open spot below the pass. For gear I was using an EE Recon bivy, an EE 30 degree quilt and a ZPacks Pocket Tarp, plus my Nunatak Skaha jacket; I did not want to be cold on this trip. I ate a bean burrito and settled in for the night.

D1.1

D1.2

D1.3 climb to Boulder Pass

D1.4 flowers are still bloomin'

D1.5 more flower fields

D1.6 pollen collectors

D1.7 entering alpine zone

D1.8 splendor of the hills

D1.9 Boulder Pass pano

D1.10

D1.11 trail down to the Napeequa

D1.12 descending to the Napeequa valley

D1.13 clean picking

D1.14 Napeequa river ford point

D1.15 Beautiful!

D1.16 Napeequa valley

D1.17 more splendor

D1.18 Napeequa valley climbing to Little Giant Pass

D1.19 looking towards High Pass

D1.20 parting is such......

D1.21 bivy site below Little Giant Pass

Day 2: Little Giant Pass to Buck Pass: 19.1 miles No alarms for me, when it was light enough I got up and had breakfast (no cooking gear), thinking if I could at least make it to Buck Pass I’d be OK. As I descended that’s when I had the conversation with the party camping below me. The legs were OK but I could tell I had worked them the prior day, but no particular problems beset me as I descended to the trail head on the Chiwawa River road. Had a quick conversation with a fellow NWhiker (Hi Teresa) then cleansed my feet on the shallow ford to the road. Now I really wasn’t looking forward to the like 5 miles of road walking so stuck my thumb out after a mile and a nice couple picked me up. I hadn’t really looked at the map closely and just took the ride up to Phelps Creek trail head. Oops, what I really needed was Trinity, 2.2 miles down the dusty road. I thanked them again as I passed them after they parked and fessed up to being a DA, then ran down the road to Trinity, basically negating mileage saved by the ride. Maybe I should have just gone the Spider Meadows/Lyman Lakes route but I hadn’t really looked at that so decided to stick with my plan of Buck Pass. Now the FS has posted warnings about the bridge over one of the creeks being destroyed, but a check online showed the bridge was still usable. I also noticed that fording the creek at that point was completely doable if one didn’t like using the bridge. It was hot in the burn area on the ascent, but I went slowly to preclude sweating too much and pretty much enjoyed the long climb to Buck Pass. As the day lengthened I concluded that stopping there for the night was in order, but when I got there the camp spots were taken. I climbed up to one where a couple of guys with two tents had set up, had a quick conversation explaining I was just looking for a place to bivy and would they mind if I set up just below them in the meadow? No problem they said, and as I walked away one said, “hey, do you have a blog?” Turns out, after he saw my pack, he recognized my voice….what are the chances? They came down and we had a nice chat, them two old friends who get together every year for outdoor excursions; they were doing the Spider Gap/Buck Pass loop. As they told me more it was obvious they have done some pretty cool stuff over the years, and this pleasant visit set the tone for the social hike it would become for me, an element that is mostly missing when I go out solo. In another unusual circumstance, I bedded down before dark….I had gone two days without using a lamp. I must be getting old.

D2.1 sunrise descending from Little Giant Pass

D2.2 morning skies

D2.3 shoe rinse after fording Chiwawa River

D2.4 not to be dissuaded

D2.5 "destroyed bridge" after crossing

D2.6 Buck Creek fire zone

D2.7 Buck Creek fire ash residue

D2.8 climbing to Buck Pass

D2.9 Glacier Peak near Buck Pass

D2.10 no room at the Inn- bivy site Buck Pass

Day 3: Buck Pass to Point 5900: 23.2 miles As I departed the next morning I was rather looking forward to hitting the PCT after the descent, as I wasn’t covering as much ground as I would have liked. It was a beautiful morning and I stopped for a bit and had some chow at Middle Ridge. Now my legs were sore, and I knew that that was from day 1. I was hoping that the gentleness of the PCT would help them through to the distance I had to cover over the next two days, setting up for the dreaded Indian Creek final leg. No people crossed paths with me until I hit the PCT, and shortly thereafter I saw my first thousand yard stare thru hiker…jammin’ like crazy and in no mood for small talk. Apparently most thru hikers had skipped the Sierra this year due to snow and were planning on going back to finish up. Despite the sore legs I was able to trot a good portion of the distance all the way to Miner’s Creek, where I took time to clean up, wash some socks and my top. Incredible amount of dust squirreled away in my clothing at that point, and my legs were brown, and not from having a great tan. That felt good. Now to endure the reroute all the way down to the Siuattle and back up again on the other side. As I climbed next to Vista Creek I took a break for some Chocolate Mousse, and a BC section hiker (Barbara) conversed with me for a while. We both were thinking of camping at point 5900’ as the next real place was Mica Lake, way too far at this point in the evening. Barbara left as I finished my dessert and I asked her to save a spot for me…actually I said, “don’t take my spot!” I continued my climb and was arriving just late enough to grab my headlamp, I wanted to check out a ridge that had a tent on one end. Push the button, get little blue light. WTF? Guys in tent saying, “hey, who is that (translation, f%$k, I hope that’s not a bear) what’s up?” Notabear answers, “sorry guys, just checking out the ridge for a bivy spot, sorry to disturb you.” They tell me there’s 3 guys bivying on a flat spot further up, so, having enough light left to discern the trail, I continue up with my worthless BD Spot. I get to the site and Barbara sticks her head out of the tent and offers me her headlamp to get set up after I tell her what’s up. I found a flattish spot under a tree above and dug into my kit for my emergency spare light, gave the headlamp back to Barbara and did a basic bivy, no tarp. I’d deal with my lamp in the morning….that BD Spot is known for getting turned on accidentally as it has no lockout, and tonight it bit me. I’d change batteries in daylight, so bedded down for another warm and starry evening.

D3.1 Glacier Peak leaving Buck Pass on day 3

D3.2 bench mark at a creek

D3.3 descending from Middle Ridge

D3.4 nice trail

D3.5 only one of these I saw

D3.6 stop and eat the berries

D3.7 Suiattle River bridge

D3.8 peekaboo shot climbing to point 5900

D3.9 more views on the climb

D3.10 alpenglow splendor

Day 4: Point 5900 to Baekos Creek: 23.2 miles (again) Eclipse Day! Meaning sleep in, dally and find a good place to try and time lapse it. I had carried a tripod for 4 days and hadn’t used it, plus I had a 3.0 ND filter. Worth a try. The 3 bivy guys were up early and outathere, so only Barbara and I were left. More pleasant conversation as we packed up and she was off before me, both of us with an eye on finding a good viewing spot. Another beautiful clear day, so I headed further upward to see what I could find. As I crested a hill the opposite bank looked to be in the perfect spot, so I contoured around this beautiful bowl and again caught up to Barbara and another female section hiker. They were doing water chores and eating breakfast so I prepped my cheese dip and strawberry cheesecake, then continued up the trail to my planned viewing spot. There were 3 others camped there, I said hi then climbed a knoll, but not before Barbara arrived. I told her she could share my spot and I’d give her some cheesecake. I set up on the knoll awaiting the specified time. Barbara came up and ate some cheesecake and spread, then joined the others off to the side because they had welder’s glasses. Gimme that cheesecake back! Bottom line, even if the eclipse was a bust (camera wise) the spot was incredible, looking eastward with the mountain on the right. I took my shots during the specified time but I could tell the filter wasn’t going to be enough, but the setting left no room for anything but soaking in the surroundings. During eclipse time there was a discernible waning of light and we could all feel how the air chilled. Amazing, but at 10:30 I packed up and headed down the trail, as leisure time was over and I had some miles to cover. As I went around a corner a thru hiker couple were chilling and offered me a look through the glasses…..she had carried those things since the beginning of her hike in anticipation. I was amazed to see that the event was far from over, with the lower left quadrant still covered. More pleasant conversation, including him telling me that there was a section of the PCT ahead (for SOBO) that he described as “the worst section of PCT in Washington State.” I’m thinking, the PCT is a hiker autobahn, how bad can it be? I put the thought aside, was again passed by Barbara, and headed up to Mica Lake. But not before the very hot descent to Milk Creek (not so great trail in some sections, hmmmm). Thankfully the 2200’ climb was out of the sun and cool, so in the middle of the afternoon I arrived at this oasis. Of course Barbara was there, telling me that the old guy in the tent was standing completely naked when she arrived; not so unusual I guess with all the thru hikers storming through. I had lunch in this Alpine Lakes-like setting, then decided to take a dip in those incredibly clear, blue waters. I huffed like a baby from the cold but emerged reborn, at least temporarily free of dust. Settings like this make one consider changing plans but I eventually left, leaving Barbara and creepy old nude dude behind and mentally geared for the upcoming hours. Eclipse leisure time was over, I needed to cover 20 more miles to position myself for day 5 because I did not want to chance being on the Indian Creek trail at night; I figured conservatively I should start it around noon. That meant I had to hike until midnight to cover the distance as my legs were still sore and I was not able to be speedy. I climbed over the beautiful setting of Fire Creek Pass and started the descent. During a water stop, guess who arrived? Barbara of course and she told me she was looking to camp at a spot 3 more miles down the trail. We started hiking at the same time but she was way too fast for me, so I hiked my own pace climbing to Kennedy Ridge. At one point I rounded a corner and audibly gasped at the vista of Glacier Peak transitioning to alpenglow. Such surprises are priceless. Hike, stop, photo, hike, stop, photo and so on. It finally got dark enough, around 8:30, to put on the headlamp, which I had sequestered in a pants pocket all day to make sure it didn’t accidentally get turned on; I had already allocated the spare batteries. I came upon a creek crossing to see a headlamp on the other side; Barbara of course. We exchanged more pleasantries, I wished her good luck in her SOBO section hike of WA and OR, and buckled down for some more mileage.

D4.1 sunrise on tree from bivy site

D4.2 no tarp required

D4.3 tree eclipse

D4.4 eclipse day (a few hours to go)

D4.5 spotting my viewing site

D4.6 even if the eclipse is a bust, the view isn't

D4.7 Barbara awaits

D4.8 my filter didn't cut it

D4.9 pano from the knoll

D4.10 onward to Milk Creek

D4.11 descending to Milk Creek

D4.12 can you find the trail?

D4.13 new signage

D4.14 after a dip in Mica Lake

D4.15 Mica Lake

D4.16 Mica Lake2

D4.17 climbing to Fire Creek Pass

D4.18 you get the schist of it

D4.19 trail selfie

D4.20 below Fire Creek Pass pano

D4.21 another popup

D4.22 descending from Fire Creek Pass

D4.23 looking back towards Fire Creek Pass

D4.24 water stop

D4.25 mountain shot1

D4.26 mountain shot2

D4.27 mountain shot3

D4.28 the final alpenglow

D4.29 my evening begins

D4.30 about sums it up

I had earlier mentioned that this was a rather social hike so I’d like to mention other conversations I’d had up to this point. I ran into perhaps 6 people who were doing the orbit, all CW and doing the High Pass route with the exception of one gentleman from Buckley who was going Spider Gap. It is obvious that this is a popular circumnavigation, but everyone seemed very experienced. Sometimes we’d talk for 15 minutes about route particulars or other sundry points, and I was impressed with what a great bunch of outdoors loving people they all were. There were also a handful of NOBOs who were more than happy to chat it up. I never begrudged the time spent in these conversations or the impact they had in my schedule. In short, a wonderful people experience. The thru hiker who complained about the trail? Well, I hit it all at night. Rocky, rooty, narrow, overgrown, and my favorite…two sections after crossing Sitkum Creek that were bogs, not just a creek in the trail, but 50 foot wide sections of muck hell that required detouring on firmer ground, if I could find it. But eventually I exited the “worst section of the PCT in Washington State” and continued on fairly level trail for a couple of miles until I got a text from my wife at 11:30 (InReach) saying “maybe you should take a break, do 6 days if you have enough food (which I did)”. As it approached midnight I started scanning left and right of the trail for a suitable spot, and finally found one within earshot of a creek just past midnight. On another tarpless warm night in the trees, I did a basic bivy with the thought of arising when it started getting light. This was a deep woods bivy but after adjusting to the light, some stars twinkled above through the canopy and reminded me of how great it is to be alive. After a time of enduring twitchy, squirmy legs of course, their way of getting back at me for punishing them. Day 5: Baekos Creek to Grasshopper Meadows: 25.4 miles I was on the trail at 5:30 AM, eyes on the prize. As I climbed into the White Chuck Basin I ran into another Orbiter. We looked like we had shopped at the same store, and in conversation we were like brothers in experience and equipment. He had some concerns about the High Pass route but when I told him it seemed plenty of people were preceding him and that the ford of the Napeequa was a non event, his background worry level dropped a notch. EXTRA SPECIAL KUDOS for doing the White River trail. He had a partner, but after battling that trail making 1 MPH, the partner finally tossed in the towel and turned around; of course, he also had the transportation. However, my brother had an InReach like mine, of course, and he was hoping to text his wife and convince her to pick him up; don’t think he’d told her that yet. One of the considerations Cassie and I had last year when we turned around was the thought of my wife having to bail us out, not only driving to Suiattle (if required) but all the way back to Grasshopper meadows on sketchy road in her nice Camry. I continued up to Red Pass, a quick break, then onward where I met a celebrity. I had heard from someone else about an 85 YO and his daughter section hiking the PCT; I stopped to chat with a woman relaxing on the trail and she said she was waiting on her dad to catch up, him being 85 (she was 50). She said he had been section hiking the PCT for 15 years and she was able to join him on a few trips, they were averaging 13 miles per day. THE DUDE IS 85! As he came around the corner I told him to get a move on, what was the holdup? Chuckle chuckle. He was trim and looked more like 70, I was totally impressed. I only hope I can still be doing this in another 23 years.

D5.1 crossing the White Chuck River

D5.2 orange delight

D5.3 trail to Red Pass

D5.4 White Chuck valley

D5.5 White Chuck Basin from Red Pass

D5.6 receding glaciers

D5.7 catching the sun

D5.8 let me think....not

D5.9 bye bye PCT, hello Hell

D5.10 clashing colors

D5.11 Indian Creek-bugs, brush, heat, what's not to like?

D5.12 Bridge to FSR 6400, only 2 miles to go

D5.13 White River....the end

Now it was boogie time, I need to tank water before Indian Creek and filled a 2 liter collapsible container (for this express purpose), drank a liter of water, and filled my bottle on the shoulder strap. At 12:30 PM I ate and started down the trail. Cassie and I had done Indian Creek twice last year, out and back on our failed orbit. It seemed much worse this year. More blow down. Taller brush. Just as hot. Just as buggy. To make matters worse, I lost the trail at least 4 times, usually after crossing a wash. I think a contributing factor is, seems like most people do the orbit CW, pushing through the brush and grasses in one direction. As I crashed around trying to discern, by logic or sight, where the trail was, the foliage gave no clue. One time I only found it by feel, with the sometimes over the head brush withholding visual evidence. I had sent my wife a position report at 12:30 when I started, but not one since. I was swearing standing in the middle of a washed out gully, already having searched in all logical directions for where the trail continued to no avail. TEXT FROM WIFE: “I haven’t heard from you for a while (almost 5 PM), everything going OK?” MY RESPONSE: “I’m trying to find the F%#king trail.” After that I just climbed up one side, with no visual evidence, and started bashing through the brush when my feet found it. GPS accuracy isn’t good enough for exactness, but good enough to be in the ball park. I was really questioning my decision to leave this trail for the end, going CCW, versus going CW and hitting it from the start. Occasional forest breaks allowed me to fill up my chest mounted bottle, as my wife texts back that “Looks like you’re right on the trail.” I told her I had reacquired and that I would position report when I was out of the mess. Except just when you think you’re through the worst of it you find yourself swimming in foot grabbing, face slapping, eye poking fauna that seems to have been bred for giantism. With flies. And mosquitos. Ahh, the trail has finally turned south for the final stretch to the bridge. Nice forest, unmaintained trail but easy enough. Oops, more head high brush. And again. And again. Oh wah, you signed up for this, just suck it up. But was I glad to come to the bridge that officially ended the trail with only 2 miles of road walking back to the truck. When I did turn on my headlamp to easily identify tripping rocks, I found my face engulfed with tiny flying insects. So I finished my hike with on again, off again lighting, finally arriving at my waiting vehicle, from whence I pulled out and guzzled a vitamin water, then a Starbucks chilled mocha, then a little later a coconut water after Pringles, Fig Newtons and Jalapeño popcorn. I stood on my tail gate naked (the only people that come here park for the orbit I think, or perhaps I was emulating the guy at Mica Lake) and turned a white washcloth black from the dust on my legs. I texted my wife that I was going to sleep there and come home in the morning, knowing that first I would lay in my truck enduring the muscle flagellation from my legs before being finally able to sleep. Conclusion. OK, this trip caps off my 6 volcano orbits as I previously mentioned. How would I order them? Although a little longer, I’d say the Mt. Hood Timberline was the gentlest, especially now that the Eliot Creek crossing has been repaired. Then Mt. St. Helens Loowit, shorter than the Timberline but rock hopping and gully crossings add a touch more difficulty. Then Mt. Baker, but only in the sense of difficulty….I had to bike 58 miles and this would turn off most people. Then the Wonderland….long but cushy in that you know exactly where to stay every night, with a toilet and bear pole, and you can resupply if needed. Adams isn’t that long but the rugged trailless east side begs a skill set beyond basic backpacking. And then Glacier Peak, because it’s the longest, has the most elevation (distel32’s 35 hour trip had them at 27,000’ elevation gain, which is a similar profile to mine), can entail off trail travel, and usually ends up on the White River trail (you’ve been warned) or Indian Creek, 11 miles of….see above. Cheers, everyone, and happy hiking.

[KekistaniProphet]

Why didn't ye go over high pass bruuhh?

[mbravenboer]

Nice trip. Appreciate the detailed write-up!

[Brushbuffalo]

Excellent! Fun read, too.

[JVesquire]

Great TR. That trip is a highlight of all of the trips I've ever done.

[mbravenboer]

On the headlamp issue, I always carry batteries and headlamp in a ziplock bag (batteries not in the headlamp). I guess it's kind of obvious, but maybe it helps.

[raising3hikers]

thanks for sharing your trip!

[RichP]

Fantastic.

[ChinookPass]

Nice volcano collection. I'm one sixth done. Hoping for the second next week. You saved the best for last, I think.

[Frodo Barefoot]

[NorDub]

How do you like that bivy?

[Opus]

Nice! I'm planning to do this same loop in the near future, though at a slightly slower pace. Any issues with bugs?

[williswall]

[Nancyann]

Congratulations on completing your sixth volcano orbit! Beautiful photos! We were up in the area shortly before you, and also had many enjoyable conversations with section hikers and orbiters, who were very knowledgeable about the area. We did not see any long distance hikers, except for perhaps one lady in a skirt and straw hat who had no idea where she was, other than "we're at point 00 and headed for point 03." Nice to hear about the 85 year old section hiker, so inspirational!

[braincloud]

Orbiting the volcanos!! I just completed summiting all of them. Now I have an idea of what to do next! (Your trip looks awesome).