[Gimpilator]

Yesterday I joined James B, Greg S, and Andy D for an attempt on Spire Mountain 6213'. We were aware of the possibility of fresh snow on the route and I voiced concerns about this to Greg prior, but we decided to give it a shot anyhow. During the drive there I saw how much snow was on Baring and other peaks and figured we were probably hosed unless sun had melted the snow off the climbing portion at the end. The only way to know was go have a look. Ultimately, it was a fun day out despite having to make the call to turn around just 200 feet short of the summit.

Columbia

Del Campo

We followed the north ridge route as described by Kevin A on Summitpost. Thanks Kevin! The route was not as brushy as you might expect in this area. We ascended several mossy talus slopes and made our way around minor cliffs. At the first major cliff, we were supposed to go up through a gully, however a bees nest deterred us. In fact this was one of only 3 bees nests we encountered and everyone took heavy fire from the attackers. Andy, who is allergic to certain species, got about 10 stings by the end of the day.

Bear

central spire and chockstone

Since we couldn't go up the gully we worked left on mossy ledges in the cliff and found a class 4 moss step, which we pulled ourselves up using tree branches. One log I was standing on collapsed and for a moment I was free hanging, gripping tree branches, with my legs dangling. Snow started around 5000 feet and increased to 6 inches at 6000 feet.

north spire above saddle

Columbia, Monte Cristo, Kyes

After passing below a buttress we scrambled to the saddle at 6940 feet. We climbed up through snow covered krummholz. I was the first to turn around (zero pride). What lay ahead was very exposed climbing and scrambling with wet snow on top. I knew the guys still had a decent chance if they were willing to take a lot more risk than I am. We had a rope. I told them I would wait near the saddle. They climbed up a little higher, and at the first major rock step decided to call it.

video link Thanks for organizing this trip James! I had fun despite the stings.

[Jake Robinson]

Looks like a nice day, even without a summit. On Seven Fingered Jack and Maude yesterday, we didn't see a patch of snow until 7500', and it wasn't consistent until 8500'...

[puzzlr]

I'm out of the NW right now but this definitely shows how the seasons are changing. Time to adjust the objectives I guess. The movie really captures the conditions there -- good call to turn around.

[Mike Collins]