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cascadeclimber
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PostMon Apr 16, 2018 3:43 pm 
I had very limited first-hand experience with Fred and can't comment on his behavior toward women. What I did repeatedly hear from my climbing buddies was some variation of this: "Fred Beckey called me at (insert number from one to five) O'clock in the morning. He wanted to go climb (insert something between the Mexico border and the Arctic Circle). He was shouting and couldn't hear a thing I was saying and he wanted to leave today. I don't think he knew or cared what time it was." From my perspective he was a one-percenter in terms of his relentless pursuit of his singular (affection for women omitted) passion. The results speak for themselves and, I like to believe, a life lived largely free of the nonsense fears (primarily lacks of money, power, time, love, etc.) led to a long, fulfilling life. This is just what I like to believe, of course. He and his books inspired me unlike anyone or anything else relative to mountaineering.

If not now, when?
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AlpineRose
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PostMon Apr 16, 2018 3:53 pm 
Megan, if you are Beckey's biographer, may we look forward to a biography some day?

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Freesolo
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PostMon Apr 23, 2018 12:13 pm 
Quote:
His climbing pursuits and explorations are as legendary as his sexism and lack of respect for women. #itscomplicated
sexism noun sex·ism \ ˈsek-ˌsi-zəm \ prejudice, stereotyping, or discrimination, typically against women, on the basis of sex. Accusing Fred of sexism is simply inaccurate. To say that his sexism was legendary is pure slander. wom·an·iz·er ˈwo͝oməˌnīzər/Submit noun derogatory a man who engages in numerous casual sexual affairs with women. I'm thinking womanizer would be far more accurate, although it rings as though some amish elder in a church meeting just said it. You may as well have just accused Mick Jagger of being sexist and lacking respect for women. They were a great rock band but the hotel room and tour bus scene wasn't in line with amish elder church meeting standards. You're god damn right it wasn't!!! Fred started his own way of life because he's a god damn original. Thousands of people now embrace Fred's way of life. He never married, he took it on the run and that was part of his lifestyle and his total dedication to the sport that he helped create. I've been climbing in PNW for 30 years and I'm like the Ron Jeremy of NW climbing; I climb with a lot of young Women and I respect every one of them. When I'm out with my gf and I see these young Women in public them come give me a hug and ask when we can get out again. I see these same young Women at J Tree and Red Rocks running through the boys and girls at a pace that might surprise you. Do I judge these young Women, no. Do I call them sexist or say they lack respect for men, no. Do I call them Mananizers? NO. If i see them i give them a hug and ask when we can get out again. You'd have been far more accurate if you simply said Fred could be an ass####. Sometimes he could be a king kong of assholes. On one of our trips, when Fred was 89, i told a partner "if i went over and smothered him in his sleeping bag right now i seriously doubt there would be any questions asked." I just didn't want to carry him out of there or be the guy left climbing with Fred when the music stopped. All kidding aside, the truth is when i spent dozens of hours alone with Fred in the car driving he wanted to talk about the British philosopher Allen Watts, climate change, resource depletion, younger generations. For someone a few months from 90 he was aware, articulate and concerned on any number of current world issues. He didn't want to talk about him as much as i did. There was no bravado of the glory days or any talk of women or exploits. When Fred and I arrived in Sun Valley to a condo of one of my young climbing GF's. She was star struck with Fred, she sat next to him and kissed his cheek, glad handing him and running her fingers in his hair. I sat across the coffee table taking this in, she was a 24yo Swedish princess type stunning in every way. Fred quickly poured cold water on her enthusiasm and was like "all right, all right" as her waved her arms away. He was more like hanging out with a senior citizen professor than some climbing jock. (remember, he wrote 36 books) Although when the topic of climbing came up he knew everything and everyone. This is the guy that taught Yvon Chouinard how to climb, think about that. This is the guy who was dropped off by a barge, as a teenager, with his kid brother to second ascent a mountain that only Fritz Wiessner had seen the summit of. Fritz Wiessner knew who Fred Becky was, think about that. I've shared a rope with hundreds of other climbers and i've learned something from each of them. But to hear Fred speak on climbing was something else, his words evolved your understanding of the sport itself. I've met many great climbers over the years and most of them are A type assholes. Most dirt bags lives end poorly in squalor and quiet desperation. Megan Bond is nothing short of a saint for making the end of Fred's life better in many ways. If Fred had heard about this he would have been furious that anyone was down on Megan. If Megan is a part of Fred's life and story then she is forever intertwined in the fabric of NW climbing and should be respected by us all for taking care of Fred, his estate and his memory. Now, please let Fred speak for himself, below is the link to the dirt bag trailer, The first 16 seconds are Fred's response to this thread. Dirtbag, The Legend of Fred Becky

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MtnGoat
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PostMon Apr 23, 2018 5:48 pm 
Good words FS up.gif

Diplomacy is the art of saying 'Nice doggie' until you can find a rock. - Will Rogers
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cascadeclimber
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PostTue Apr 24, 2018 7:58 am 
Freesolo wrote:
Megan Bond is nothing short of a saint for making the end of Fred's life better in many ways. If Fred had heard about this he would have been furious that anyone was down on Megan. If Megan is a part of Fred's life and story then she is forever intertwined in the fabric of NW climbing and should be respected by us all for taking care of Fred, his estate and his memory.
+1 up.gif

If not now, when?
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Tom
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PostTue Apr 24, 2018 12:28 pm 
Who was down on Megan? I never personally met or had interactions with Fred. As far as womanizing, I recall hearing (10+ years ago) he would be invited to CC socials and he would ask they bring more young women for him. So yes, womanizer could be a more accurate depiction. Given the feedback that Fred could be an obsessive PITA in other regards I can imagine this could have occasionally applied to womanizing. Again, never personally met Fred or observed him interact with women. Just that I can see how he could have given a less than flattering impression in his interactions with women.

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Freesolo
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PostTue Apr 24, 2018 2:29 pm 
https://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/topic/101567-fred-beckey/ Tiger Members 1 1 post Posted Saturday at 06:13 PM
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WARNING regarding Beckey's biographer's request from Monday (see below). We do not believe it is safe to speak with Megan Bond. There is a risk she will destroy and discredit you. She has actively tried to silence critics of Fred Beckey, most recently publicly on Nov 8 - "Unless you knew Fred personally..... your comments are warrantless." There is a reason why his DOZENS of victims and eye witnesses do not speak up... all do not want to speak ill of the dead, many are in fear of the blow back, but most of all no one want to incur the wrath of Megan. DO NOT SPEAK WITH HER.
This popped up on Cascade Climbers, that's how I found about this thread. Megan Bond is "Puma" on CC. Whoever this is took the screen name "Tiger" on CC and thinks Megan is suppressing a narrative about Fred. My problem with that is in the current #metoo climate and the incredibly slippery slope it would, IMHO unfairly, put Fred's legacy on for starters and the fact that Fred's dead also taints this discussion. Am i saying Fred was a saint, no, neither was he saying that. In fact it was played up during Fred's life time by the climbing community that Fred chased Women. Two examples off the top of my head are the "two girl cigar shot" with the go go dancers at the Tahoe International Film Festival and the film where it discusses inviting Fred over for Thanksgiving dinner and Fred hits on your Mom. Fred didn't hire the go go girls or arrange that photo, Fred didn't write the line from the film about hitting on some climbers Mom, although he may have done it. To even begin to call Fred's life privileged is without merit, he worked his ass off and spent 7 decades on a suffer waffle to get it done. I'm not saying I doubt the Woman's words on this thread, i believe she did witness "inappropriate" behavior from Fred toward a Woman. I'm sure she may have been uncomfortable or upset. But if i'm going to believe something beyond that it needs to be said. I'm not going to jump to conclusions.

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RumiDude
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PostTue Apr 24, 2018 2:44 pm 
Geez, maybe all this hand wringing should have just been addressed on Cascade Climbers rather than resurrecting a months old thread here along with the controversy that attended it. Rumi

"This is my Indian summer ... I'm far more dangerous now, because I don't care at all."
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Tom
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PostTue Apr 24, 2018 2:58 pm 
Ah, I thought you were referring to this thread. In addition to the comment quoted, Megan also said she doubted within the last twenty years Fred made a comment to a woman (that was supposedly "witnessed") that was actually misogynistic. In context, that was posted in the heat of the moment. Now that things have cooled off Megan may be approaching this with more of an open mind, but I can understand why some could be hesitant to give the benefit of the doubt given the prior heated statements. Honestly I don't know what the big deal is. Sounds like Fred lived his life unapologetically and could care less what people thought about his interactions with women I'd venture to guess he'd want his biographer to tell it like it is.

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cascadetraverser
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PostTue Apr 24, 2018 3:33 pm 
Megan Bond will be writings Fred`s Biography and he wanted her to do so. She deeply cared for Fred and was instrumental in his best case scenario finish to his life. I cared for Fred several times as a Physician and found her kindness and helpfulness as his dear friend a blessing for Fred. Why wouldn`t she defend Fred right after his death? I mean really? It is very hard to be completely objective so soon after a loss. To her credit, she is reaching out to find out the details of his life including his womanizing. The CascadeClimber community seems misguided in my humble opinion.

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Freesolo
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PostTue Apr 24, 2018 3:52 pm 
Let me assure you Sir, The Cascade Climber Community supports Megan Bond 110% and then some. The person on CC who said don't talk to Megan is a mystery person who just joined CC and this is their first post there.

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cascadetraverser
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PostTue Apr 24, 2018 4:27 pm 
That is good to know. Thanks

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MtnGoat
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PostTue Apr 24, 2018 5:05 pm 
There's nothing at all wrong with months old threads if there's more to be said.

Diplomacy is the art of saying 'Nice doggie' until you can find a rock. - Will Rogers
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Ringangleclaw
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PostTue Apr 24, 2018 8:48 pm 
Tom wrote:
I never personally met or had interactions with Fred. As far as womanizing, I recall hearing (10+ years ago) he would be invited to CC socials and he would ask they bring more young women for him
As you point out, you never met Fred, and your info is second hand. Those pub club things were stupid sausage fests (except when Beck was throwing chairs). So what if he wanted more chicks there, who didn't.
Freesolo wrote:
Let me assure you Sir, The Cascade Climber Community supports Megan Bond 110% and then some.
I don't know how you could say that. Most probably don't really care if he is out'ed or the allegations are untrue. Some probably wonder if Megan is another Connie Self.

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markh752
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PostTue Apr 24, 2018 10:53 pm 
I'll grant that Beckey grew up in a different time. His "approach" might not be "modern". As a mid 40 year old... #metoo ... #timesup ... I don't flirt with anyone anymore. Single forever... since I can't flirt... It looks like flirting died just before Beckey did!

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