[Fletcher]

A group of 7 nwhikers summited Whitehorse today. This group consisted of Dave, Nick, Trace, Jake, Reed, Damon and I. We saw the window and thought this might be our chance for Whitehorse glory, we were right. After meeting at various locations very early this morning, we were hiking the old road toward the Neiderprum trail. It wasn't long until we hit snow-line, which was a pain in the ass down low.

down in the woods, predawn

The snow was really soft and punchy down low which created quite a struggle for a few hundred feet. No one could decide if snowshoes were a help or a hindrance. Some used them, some did not. It wasn't too long before it was light and we were traversing at 4000 ft before the steep climb up to Lone Tree Pass. Travel conditions had improved immensely and Dave was breaking trail like a goddamn madman!

Whitehorse 3/20/18

Whitehorse 3/20/18

Darrington fog

Whitechuck sunrise

alpenglow and Lone Tree Pass

Whitehorse 3/20/18

Nick nearing Lone Tree Pass

I don't remember what time we arrived at Lone Tree Pass. It was cold so we didnt linger long. We traversed and dropped several hundred feet to a small pond, then gained back some elevation and continued traversing towards the climb up to High Pass. Along the way, we crossed some big open slopes that had slid recently. Everything seemed stable, but we were slightly worried what afternoon sun may bring.

the crew near LTP

gainging elevation we were going to lose shortly thereafter

first (and only) look at Three Fingers

downclimbing

High Pass almost in sight

Jake broke trail up towards High Pass in an animalistic way. The snow was in great shape here and made for some fun climbing!

Jake breaking trail to High Pass

Dave and Co climbing towards High Pass

Everyone arrived at High Pass within a few minutes of each other and basked in the glorious sun. The summit of Whitehorse was close now, and seemed within reach.

Whitehorse

Whitehorse 3/20/18

Travel conditions were favorable on the So-Bahli-Ahli Glacier and we all made our way up towards the summit block.

team working towards the summit

Damon

Reed and Jake

Trace

Whitehorse 3/20/18

Whitehorse 3/20/18

Whitehorse 3/20/18

We regrouped on the hogsback, just before things steepened up below the summit and discussed how to tackle the summit. We considered setting up a belay and protecting the route with pickets, but decided to see what the snow was like up higher, maybe we could solo it and save time. Jake, Reed and I set out first with Damon, Dave, Nick and Trace not far behind. The snow was in wonderful climbing condition. Huge bucket steps were easy to kick and ice axe placement was easy and bomber. The final 20 feet or so really steepens up and is pretty exposed. I was up in front and decided to check it out. This final section was encrusted with rime, and I used two axes like ice tools. I couldn't believe how bomber each placement felt, so I decided to go for it. It was a little bit intense but also super fun! Reed soloed up right behind me.

Reed pulling Whitehorse Crux

Problem was... while Reed and I climbed the crux, we knocked away much of the useful rime, exposing rock and powdery snow below, making it much more treacherous for everyone else below. We didnt hesitate to set up a belay (everyone was cold) to get everyone up onto the summit as fast as possible. Since the belayed section was so short, we just belayed everyone up, one at a time, and then threw the rope back down to the next guy. This actually worked really well.

Whitehorse summitshot

Everyone was still cold, so we set up a dead man and prepared to rap the crux. This got everyone back down to the hogsback fairly quickly.

sacrificing a picket on Whitehorse

Dave on rappel

Damon with about the best view we got from the summit

heading back toward High Pass \

The descent to and down from High Pass was easy and really fast. Then we had to gain-lose-gain elevation back up to Lone Tree Pass.

High Pass

Whitehorse 3/20/18

Whitehorse 3/20/18

gaining elevation again

break time

We took a few short breaks here and there, but main good time back to LTP.

heading down from LTP

Whitehorse 3/20/18

looking back at the summit

We had some seriously horrible postholing on our way back down to the trail. At least it was sort of comical. I know that Dave and I sank down to above our waists a few times. Once back to the trail, we cruised down to the car, arriving before 7 and making Whitehorse less than a 15 hour day.

posthole city

relieved to be done with the postholing

Dave relieved to be getting out of the snow

Great day, great team, good times! Feels good to have Whitehorse in the bag

[Jake Robinson]

Fun day guys!

Reed on the glacier

Back to High Pass

Half of Three Fingers

Trace on the summit

Fletcher on the summit

Dave rappels

Nick rappels

Light and shadow

Entering posthole hell

Devil's Club veggie belay

Trace wrings the water out of his gloves

[EastKing]

Incredible!! Great job everyone!!!!

[awilsondc]

Nice get fellas! That's a long day!

[RichP]

Excellent!

[Gimpilator]

Nicely done gentlemen! When I got Whitehorse in Jan 2014, I felt like the whole year was already a success.

[neek]

Great team, great climb!

Heading up to High Pass

Fletcher

Looking back toward High Pass

Going up

Going up

Dave heading down

Fletcher coming down

[gb]

Fletcher, I expected you all to get swept away in a giant arvalanch. It really looked like a pretty good time to climb Whitehorse with the issue of the 6000' gully being the one question mark. But luckily, the clouds mitigated that issue. It looks like the upper mountain would have offered some pretty good skiing! My one winter ascent was years ago about a week earlier than your timing. I had great snow all the way down to 2500'. March can have quite good travel conditions in the mountains, often better than April when warming is more of an issue.

[ONELUV1]

Hell yeah! Kick ass!

[Mesahchie Mark]

Whitehorse is awesome. Well done!

[iron]

good stuff. whitehorse is a quintessential peak to tag. glad the snow worked out for you. lots of open slopes and with this year's sketch snow conditions, be thankful it worked out.

[raising3hikers]

looks good up there nice work and good pics

[wildernessed]

Great effort and photos.

[cartman]

Great report and pictures, mountain and snow look pristine. Whitehorse is a great peak to get this early. Curious (not judgmental) as to your discussions and decisions given the deep underlying layers in the snowpack NWAC keeps mentioning. I'd guess the low temps and the clouds mitigating sun effects played a major role in deciding to continue?

[ozzy]

Righteous endeavor dudes!! yall had bomber conditions for sure! Cheers guys!