[MG]

Hey guys! I purchased a few permits to climb Mt St Helens on May 13th. Unfortunately I procrastinated a bit and wasn't able to get permits later in the season before they sold out. I know the climb can be a bit trickier this early in the season, and I would love any insight or advice I can get! I have hiked quite a bit, but have never rock climbed and don't have much snow hiking experience. I am going to rent crampons and trekking poles for the climb. I have read information on the trail online quite a bit, but would love to hear from those of you who know about the trail or have hiked it before! Thanks in advance!

[Hiking_Husky]

Honestly, I much prefer climbing St. Helens when it's under snow! Much better than the ash and jagged rock that is prevalent in the later season. In good conditions, it is a great first snow climb for avid hikers looking to get some experience. First off, you are climbing on Mother's Day...there will be a ton of other hikers (500 on the mountain, plus probably more at the trailhead), and they'll mostly be hiking in dresses. It's a PNW tradition. That said, dispersed camping and parking at/near the parking lot will be at a premium, so get there early, and if you do sleep in a tent nearby, I recommend earplugs (kind of a party atmosphere that weekend). I usually sleep in the back of my car the night before a climb. Given the number of people (and many folks climbing that Saturday as well), the trail should be easy to follow. That said, you may look into getting a navigation app on your phone (Gaia, BackCountryNav), and practice with it beforehand. The Worm Flows route (winter) is a bit longer than Monitor Ridge (summer). First 3mi or so are gradual, then it gets much steeper for the rest of the climb. Crampons and poles should get you to the top on a nice day, but I may also recommend renting an ice ax, and familiarizing yourself with it beforehand. I have climbed St. H 3 times this winter, and two of those I have seen an unarrested slide near the summit. Luckily no major injuries as a result, but definitely some shaken nerves. Both were very lucky to not hit rocks. The snow is typically firm and sometimes icy in the morning, when most are making their ascent. There are some steeper slopes to climb (30-40-degrees max), but no rock climbing. Additionally, glissading can be a fun way down the mountain on a nice day with soft snow, as long as you know the proper ice ax braking technique. Again, very important to familiarize yourself with it, and plenty of youtube videos and the like to get you started. Ideally, get out somewhere to practice beforehand (Panorama Point at Paradise is a nice option). Good luck, and have fun! It's a beautiful place!

[MG]

Thanks so much! I guess I was off a day and am actually hiking on May 14th, the day after Mother's day. Still good to know about the tradition and the crowd level. Considering my lack of climbing experience I think I'll appreciate knowing there are people around. I've looked into both routes (Worm Flows and Monitor Ridge). Since this date is somewhat in between the two climbing seasons (end of winter, beginning of summer), I'm a little torn on which one to choose. Do you have a recommendation on which one may be a better beginner climb? Also good to know about the ice ax. I'll definitely get one and try to make it to panorama point to practice. Thank you, this is all great information!

[Hiking_Husky]

[Islander75]

I'm climbing on May 11th and driving from Yakima. Never been up before but really looking forward to it. I was hoping to do Monitor Ridge but I guess it'll be Worm Flows. Does anyone know if NF 25 from Randle to Cougar will be open by then?

[kvpair]

Done it every year for last 10 years in early May. Recommend crampons and poles. Crappy snow pants for glissading on the way down. Took about 40 mins down to the flattish plateau when glissading and another 1.5 hours on the way back out since the snow was pretty soft. And I agree on doing it in snow. Worm Flows in summer is hellish on the way down. Jagged rocks and pumice make for a no fun descent. Your gods are looking out for you, but you haven't realized it yet. Do glissade down. it is tremendous fun.