[Fletcher]

A consolation prize after high waters in the Methow turned us around from other peaks we had planned to climb, Kyle, Reed, and I climbed Big Kangaroo yesterday. Cool peak! We slept near Washington Pass on Saturday night. It was a chilly and beautiful night to sleep below Liberty Bell. We got up at 5 and were moving shortly after 6.

Big Kangaroo from the car

the best perspective on SEWS

We knew which gully we were supposed to climb, but misjudged our direction going through the forest and began climbing the totally wrong gully climbers left of the correct one. Reed and Kyle both voiced concerns, which I wrongly neglected. I also wrongly neglected to check the GPS which would have verified their concerns. We climbed the wrong gully with confidence and didnt fully realize it until we were nearing the crest of Kangaroo Ridge.

views

Reed in wrong gully

Reed kicking steps up wrong gully

Big Kangaroo 5-20-18

Big Kangaroo 5-20-18

We climbed snow and then a melted out loose gully to the crest of Kangaroo Ridge and realized that the summit was .2 miles to our South. Reed was confident that we could navigate the endless gendarmes and other numerous obstacles along the ridge crest to get ourselves back on track. I wasn't so sure, but was willing to give it a shot. Reed put the trip on his back at this point, we wouldnt have summited without him. First thing we had to do was down climb a steep 4th class gully into a notch just south of Pt 8183 (should have bagged it while we were so close but we didnt).

Kyle downclimbing 4th class gully

Reed then scouted a route around the east side of the ridge to get around some major blockages. He reported back that he thought it would go. Lots of chossy 3rd class with some 4th class moves but it was kinda fun.

Reed and Kyle working around the east side of the ridge

Silver Star and Snagtooth Ridge

didnt want to linger here

Reed leading the way

navigating the ridge

We eventually worked onto the west side of the ridge and had to climb 30 feet of 65 degree snow to get over another rib. From there, it looked like our route would probably go!

Kyle climbs some snow

Big Kangaroo summit getting close!

Big Kangaroo 5-20-18

Big Kangaroo 5-20-18

finally back on track

summit block dead center

We climbed ever-steepending snow and some sketchy 4/5 rock to a rappel station. We stashed our packs here and harnessed up. The summit block looked intimidating.

Reed approaching ridge crest

Kyle climbing

summitblock

We set up a belay at the rap station and I lead out towards the summit. There are a couple really airy moves working around a corner to the wide airy ledge. These moves were really well protected with a #2. Once on the ledge, I built a funky anchor (really limited pro) and brought Kyle and Reed over. The ledge is really exposed but wide and roomy. We felt ok being off belay here. I then lead up the 5.6 summit slab. I was relieved that there was a good spot for a .75 right before the crux moves that top you out. The old rusty bolt is still there. There is a sling girth-hitched to the bolt that might be 10 years old. I clipped in and straddled the super airy summit for a few minutes. What a rad place to be alive.

summit slab (5.6)

looking down to the ledge

summitshot

Sinister and Dome

Golden Horn and Tower never get old

Goode, Storm King, and Logan with Corteo up front

the rusty bolt

As other parties had done so before us, I felt the safest being put on top-rope belay and downclimbing the slab to avoid fully weighting the rusty bolt. Then Reed and Kyle took turns bagging the summit.

Reed tags it

Kyle belaying

We then got everyone safely around the airy corner and to the rap station. Then we all rappelled back down to the snow.

Reed's perch

Kyle on rappel

Plunge stepping down the gully took care. There were a lot of man-eating holes we could punch through. Once in the larger main gully skiers left, we felt ok glissading the remaining 1200 feet to the forest. 45 minutes of postholing later, we were back at the hairpin.

glissading

looking back at the summit

Reed swimming towards the car

Good times with two of my oldest friends!

[Gimpilator]

Very cool trip guys! I've wanted that peak since the first time I drove 20. Someday

[wildernessed]

[ozzy]

Hell yeah guys nice climb, looks like yall had some nice weather. Cheers!

[Matt]

That's a fun one, with that little fin of rock for the summit, though that old bolt on top isn't exactly confidence-inspiring.

[neek]

Love that last shot. Looks like a fun climb.

[Bryan K]

Right on buddy!!!

[NorthwestWanderer]

Those are some solid action shots. Drove through there around that time, more than likely saw your vehicle parked on the road!

[Midnight Slogger]

A few tardy photos for this excellent and fun trip:

Fletcher leading "the ledge"

Kyle "walking" along "the ledge"

Bomber butt glissades