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Fletcher Member
Joined: 29 Jul 2009 Posts: 1870 | TRs | Pics Location: kirkland |
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Fletcher
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Mon May 28, 2018 9:24 am
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Sinister Peak was the most difficult peak that I had left to do on the Bulger T100 List. Naturally, I was eager to get in there this spring and get it before the bergschrund crossing onto the Chikamin Glacier became impassable. Jake and I climbed Sinister (+ Dome) in two long days this weekend. Best trip of the year so far!
Short Version
Day 1: Slog from the car to Dome Col, summit Dome and bivy at Dome Col. Grueling.
Day 2: Climb Sinister and slog out to the car. Grueling.
Long Version
We drove out to the trailhead late on Friday night. The Suiattle River Road is in bad shape right now and we didnt arrive until after 2:30am. After a few hours of lackluster sleep in the front seat of Jakes forerunner, we were hiking up Downey Creek just before 6. There were some blowdowns on the trail, but the hike was mostly pleasant.
blowdown
A couple hours later, we arrived at Bachelor Creek and took a break. The trail up Bachelor Creek was in decent shape as well. Patchy snow started around 3600 and was continuous by the time we hit 4k. The few sections of slide alder were no big deal at all. I think we used the same crossing log at 4500 ft that I used when I climbed Dome in 2015.
raging Bachelor Creek Purple Trillium Jake in Bachelor Creek Bachelor Creek Log Crossing The route ahead
A couple skiers heading in for the Ptarmigan caught up with us in upper Bachelor Creek. We leapfrogged with them all the way to Itswoot Ridge. Nice guys. As it was the first time I did this approach, it was a relief to break out in the sub-alpine in the headwaters of Bachelor Creek.
stoked nearing Cub Pass
We arrived at the pass above Cub Lake to a still mostly frozen lake below. The plunge stepping down to the lake was nice. Getting around the lake looked funky, so we put our snowshoes on and walked across. Immediately after the lake is a large area of spring avalanche debris. The snowshoes were helpful here.
first view of Glacier Cub Lake Jake snowshoeing across Cub Lake Spire Point above
We finally arrived at Itswoot Ridge at some point in the afternoon. Clouds were rolling in and most of the surrounding peaks were socked in. We took a lengthy break here on the only melted out patch of dry ground. While we were breaking, Matt and Dustin caught up with us. They were planning on doing Dome and Sinister the next day as well. They had planned to camp at Itswoot Ridge but Jake and I apparently hadn't done enough suffering, so we dropped a few hundred feet on the far side of the ridge and started traversing towards the Dome Glacier.
Dome Peak traversing towards the Dome Glacier a socked in Dome Glacier maybe not so socked in?? nope, socked in
We climbed toward Dome Col in a whiteout. I bonked hard on this section, it was the physical crux of the entire trip for me. Once we were on the flats of the Dome Glacier, snowshoes aided our travel, although we couldn't tell if we were hiking uphill or down. Just a couple hundred feet below the col, the clouds parted slightly and we could see where we were going, which boosted moral.
we can see! a sea of clouds from Dome Col
We had received some beta that the bivy spots at the col were dry. We got there around 6:30. The wind was blowing hard and it was frigid ( a theme that would continue through the night). I had to wear every article of clothing that I had brought in order to stay warm.
After eating some food and setting up camp, we began making our way the really short distance towards the summit of Dome. The wind was blowing so hard on the snow slope above camp that it felt like it could take us off our feet.
Jake above Dome Col Sinister Agnes nearing the summit
The summit of Dome was in perfect condition. An easy walk on snow until the final exposed scramble to the summit. This was much easier than when I was up here the first time.
Glacier Jake getting some Dome
The wind was a lot calmer on the summit and the scenery was amazing. We hung out for an hour, to avoid going back down to the wind tunnel that was Dome Col, if for nothing else.
Eldorado to Buckner Reynolds Spire Pt Glacier damn damn
We reluctantly began descending towards camp but the scene just continued to improve.
Jake heading down from Dome nice Agnes and Gunsight Fernow Group wow
Dinner was amazing on Saturday night. We hit the hay around 11. The wind blew hard all night making sleep really difficult. Jake and I both think we got maybe 2 hours each. We were up at 3:45 and roping up to cross the Chikamin at 4:45. It was cold.
morning Goode and Black the schrund crossing
The schrund crossing on the Chickamin Glacier was in perfect shape, trivial. Then we easily weaved our way down past numerous massive crevasses towards Sinister Peak. It was a beautirul morning to be alive in the Cascades.
Jake and a crevasse Sinister gcetting closer Chickamin Ice Gunsight our route up Sinister
Sinister was kind of sketchy for us. Instead of climbing the much longer north face snow route, we used some existing snow patches to attain the west ridge lower down. Highlights of our climb included a long traverse on rotten snow above a deep moat (no fall zone) and linking up rotten snow patches with islands of rock on exposed terrain (also a no fall zone). Getting off snow and onto the rock once we were gaining the ridge took some nimble moves in crampons. Once on the ridge, just a little more steep, but much more solid snow, and we were on the summit. It was 6:45am
almost there Jake and Dome summitshot register our entry view west Jake on the summit me on the summit Baker Bonanza Buckner and Jack
We didnt stay long, we were worried about snow softening in the sun, and the car was a long ways away. Our descent went really smoothly which was a relief.
Jake downclimbing Sinister Jake downclimbing Sinister Jake downclimbing Sinister a big schrund
The climb back up the Chickamin to Dome Col was athletic. It felt like we were in a furnace.
we had to go back up that looking back Jake nearing the schrund crossing current state of the schrund crossing, probably good for awhile
When we arrived back at the col, Matt and Dustin were roping up to head for Sinister. Matt was hoping to get his 90th and 91st Bulgers. To thank us for our trail we broke across the Chickamin, they told us to drink some wine they had in their tent when we passed by Itswoot Ridge. We told them we would oblige. We were packed up and descending the Dome Glacier at 11:00.
Glacier again Dome ice slog to Itswoot Jake getting ready to enjoy some god-sent boxed pinot noir last look back to Dome descent back to Cub Lake
The slog back up from Cub Lake was made easier by a skier that had kicked steps earlier that day. We arrived at Cub Pass before 3.
climb up from Cub Lake
Our descent down Bachelor Creek was less painful than Id imagined it would be, which was a relief. We arrived back at Downey Creek at 5:30 and took our last break.
descending into Bachelor Creek Wolverine? a raging Bachelor
After stuffing our faces one last time and chugging some cold Via instant coffee, we slogged out to the trailhead in less than 2 hours, arriving at 7:50pm. Feels damn good to have Sinister in the bag.
~35 miles
~11,600 ft of gain
~38 hours car to car
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Jake Robinson Member
Joined: 02 Aug 2016 Posts: 521 | TRs | Pics
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Tricky log crossing on the way in Starting into the brush of Bachelor Creek...wasn't bad Getting above the whiteout on the Dome Glacier Fletcher Au Cheval Eldorado to Forbidden in the clouds Three Fingers and Whitehorse Fletcher on the summit of Dome Bonanza Glacier Agnes and Gunsight Bonanza and Copper to Maude Sunset from camp at the Dome-Chickamin col Sunrise over the Chickamin Glacier Doesn't look very far but it feels like a long way... Final snow slopes to the top Fletcher's favorite We carried snowshoes to the top of Sinister Bannock Mountain and frozen Bannock Lakes Dome Glacier Sinister summit with Eldorado to Black This crossing didn't last very long (Eric G's tracks from last week) Looking back up what we climbed Slushy trail breaking on the way back to camp, very arduous Fletcher and Sinister Watching some skiers summit Dome One last look from Itswoot Ridge
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awilsondc Member
Joined: 03 Apr 2016 Posts: 1324 | TRs | Pics
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neek Member
Joined: 12 Sep 2011 Posts: 2338 | TRs | Pics Location: Seattle, WA |
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neek
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Mon May 28, 2018 10:11 am
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Wow, nice. Hopefully you're getting caught up on sleep now.
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xuanxier Member
Joined: 09 May 2017 Posts: 80 | TRs | Pics Location: Vancouver, BC |
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xuanxier
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Mon May 28, 2018 11:18 am
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Man that's a burly two-days. Congraz to get this beast done..
After reading it I'm not so sure if my knee would hold had I joined haha. Probably the first snowshoe-on-SInister shot you guys got!
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Gimpilator infinity/21M
Joined: 12 Oct 2006 Posts: 1684 | TRs | Pics Location: Edmonds, WA |
Very very impressive. You guys are pretty burly. Beautiful area.
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raising3hikers Member
Joined: 21 Sep 2007 Posts: 2344 | TRs | Pics Location: Edmonds, Wa |
way to cover lots of ground in 2 days. sinister is in such a great location. I especially like your pics of gunsight
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Magellan Brutally Handsome
Joined: 26 Jul 2006 Posts: 13116 | TRs | Pics Location: Inexorable descent |
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Magellan
Brutally Handsome
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Mon May 28, 2018 2:23 pm
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Frickin rugged! Nice work, and lovely photos gentlemen.
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iron Member
Joined: 10 Aug 2008 Posts: 6392 | TRs | Pics Location: southeast kootenays |
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iron
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Mon May 28, 2018 10:11 pm
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Midnight Slogger 'Schwack Job
Joined: 04 Aug 2017 Posts: 96 | TRs | Pics Location: Greater Cascadia |
What an inspiring slog--and some of the best pics of skies and summits I've ever seen. Best part of video: Jake's sh##-eating grin on the summit of Dome.
Well done comrades!
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Ski ><((((°>
Joined: 28 May 2005 Posts: 12832 | TRs | Pics Location: tacoma |
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Ski
><((((°>
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Tue May 29, 2018 1:27 pm
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very nice.
"I shall wear white flannel trousers, and walk upon the beach.
I have heard the mermaids singing, each to each."
"I shall wear white flannel trousers, and walk upon the beach.
I have heard the mermaids singing, each to each."
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Brushbuffalo Member
Joined: 17 Sep 2015 Posts: 1887 | TRs | Pics Location: there earlier, here now, somewhere later... Bellingham in between |
Fine achievement, and so fast!
Fletcher wrote: | Jake getting some Dome |
Jake is standing right where the summit block slid off a few years back....the top used to be a few feet higher.
Passing rocks and trees like they were standing still
Passing rocks and trees like they were standing still
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rbuzby Attention Surplus
Joined: 24 Feb 2009 Posts: 1011 | TRs | Pics
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rbuzby
Attention Surplus
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Wed May 30, 2018 12:58 pm
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Great trip. I'm sure you guys know that Dome is a very important mountain.
That steep snow slope coming down from Spire looks like a real fun one. Yikes.
The boulder on the summit of Dome that Beckey described as looking like it was placed by a playful deity, fell off sometime between around 1980, and 1993. There has been other erosion of the summit area also. Bob Bolton and I compared summit pics a few years back. It would be nice to try to narrow it down more. I wonder when it actually fell off.
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sound2summit Will choss for beer
Joined: 12 Sep 2016 Posts: 6 | TRs | Pics Location: PNW |
Great TR guys! It was fun talking with the two of you at Dome col. I'm really glad that we were able to contribute some wine to help with your death march out of there.
That doesn't look too bad...
That doesn't look too bad...
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ozzy The hard way
Joined: 30 Jul 2015 Posts: 476 | TRs | Pics Location: University place, wa |
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ozzy
The hard way
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Fri Jun 01, 2018 3:59 pm
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Hell, that is one ambitious trip! Awesome pics all around, thats crazy runnin into others way out there this time of year! Congrats dudes! Cheers!
“I don’t know what’s gonna happen, but I wanna have my kicks before the whole shithouse goes up in flames”-Mr Mojo Risin
“I don’t know what’s gonna happen, but I wanna have my kicks before the whole shithouse goes up in flames”-Mr Mojo Risin
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