[Midnight Slogger]

Riding the energy of others' incredible trip reports lately and with only two free days, I decided to aim ambitiously for Argonaut, Sherpa, and Stuart if there was time on the second day. Left Seattle ridiculously late at 11am and started up Beverly Turnpike TH at about 1:30pm, equipped with bivy/overnight gear, sport rope, climbing harness, etc. Snow started at Fourth Pass--firm but pleasant. Followed trail that was periodically melted out all the way down to Ingalls Creek, which was raging. Crotch-slided the standard log crossing ~20 yards upstream of trail, and started B-lining for the main south gully on Argonaut, minimal bush-whacking required as I had found some mix of game/climber's trail. Even bozos get lucky! The trail seemed to avoid slide-alder altogether by crossing over an undesignated creek but staying west of main drainage on Argonaut's south side.

Fourth Pass

Argonaut and Colchuck from Fourth Pass

Old faithful over Ingalls

Climber's trail up south side of Argonaut (it wasn't always this nice)

Smooth sailing up to about 6600' until getting on firm-firm snow, where I dropped most of my gear. It was late enough in the day that no crampons were required. It started snowing lightly at this point, around 6pm, stopping after less than 10 minutes. Upon arriving at the "Y" at the top of the main drainage gully, I went left and eventually popped just west of the small chockstone chimney that accesses the ridge.

Stayed left at this "Y", and stayed on snow for 97% of way to chimney

The chockstone chimney

Fun move at top of chimney

Scrambling to the summit!

Stuart and me

Quick but fun scrambling to the top! Deposited a pencil to the register as I heard one was missing. After downclimbing chimney and returning to my gear, I traversed to somewhere below Sherpa pass for an overnight bivy at about 6400'. Was awake and moving by 5:30am, quickly getting myself into some cliffy stuff. I stayed too high on my traverse west. For others attempting this, drop somewhere between 5900' and 6200' for a more pleasant experience. I had reviewed lots of information about Sherpa's summit block, but relatively little about getting there. Big mistake! From Cartman's, Puzzlr's, and Fletcher's helpful TRs, I knew there was a key access gully rising out of another major gully on the south face. Little surprise that, traversing from the east at about 6400', it was impossible to get a survey of the south face. Without a GPS track, I was relying heavily on the minimal approach beta I brought, my own GPS of the topography, and... alas! Footprints going up a gully. "This must be it!" I dropped my crap at about 6600' and started going up. About 3/4 of the way up I realized I was off route... But how far off route? There was some fun scrambling at the top of this gully--would it spit me out just east of where I needed to be?

Oh no! Going up the incorrect gully...

Negotiating my way to the ridge

Once on the ridge, I was definitely not "just east" of where I needed to be. There were several ridge features blocking any survey of the situation. In a joyful spirit I decided to push on and see what I could see. For the better part of an hour I ended up scrambling up, down, and around the east ridge on some chilly 4th/low 5th class until I could figure out exactly how far away I was. Ha! Eventually I spotted the top of the "key access gully" marked by the prominent black finger, which was still about 500 horizontal feet away and divided by two more gullies. Concerned about having to scramble all that way and then come back, I decided to return and drop down the incorrect gully and start over the right way.

Some of the fun but occasionally chilly scrambling on the ridge

Once back at my gear, I traversed another 10 minutes west or so and spotted what I believe to be the correct gully. I started ascending with crampons and saw that it was snowing lightly, then heavily. Mountain forecast Wednesday morning before I left said possible snow showers Thursday night, but nothing about this... I pushed on, seeing how long it would last, occasionally checking the rocks to see how wet they were getting. After about 30 minutes of snow-fall I began to have doubts about getting to the summit. Thinking of r3h's less-than-enthusiastic Sherpa TR under snow conditions, I reluctantly decided to bail. Indeed, the rocks were quite wet at this point. Sadly, if I had not gotten off-route then I might've at least seen the crux of this majestic and beautiful peak. What about Stuart? The skies were increasingly dark at this point and it did not seem like a good idea. The snow continued for over an hour and about half-way down to Ingalls Creek it began to thunder.

Correct gully on the right, no?

Really dumping snow

Sad wet rocks gathering more snow

With the exception of crotch-sliding back over Ingalls Creek on a wet log and then managing some hardcore chafing on the trek out, it was an uneventful exit. All-in-all, a fun trip and good excuse to get back there again, hopefully with a partner!

[Jake Robinson]

Excellent effort and entertaining TR! Great read. Keep 'em coming!

[ozzy]

Hell yeah man nice tr, i was staring at her from Bean pk last weekend. Its an intimidating peak from afar. I did it last year in mostly dry conditions, it looks tougher right now for sure! Hope u get Sherpa, i too desperately need that one! Cheers!

[Fletcher]

Excellent solo trip! Argonaut is a fun one.

[Gimpilator]

Nice going Reed! Great to see you smiling up there.