[raising3hikers]

Mt Asa 7060' Agnes Mtn 8115' Gunsight Pk 8198' Paul K, Jayden(my 19 yr old son) and I headed out for a trip to climb some peaks. Paul was interested in Agnes and I brought Jayden along so he could give me a belay on Gunsight. We got boat reservations and took the fast boat to Stehekin, hopped on the shuttle, and started hiking in the heat by 12:30 from high bridge. The PCT was in great shape as we headed up the Agnes creek valley. About a mile past swamp creek, we found a log to cross just beyond the confluence of Agnes and Spruce creek. It was a little sketchy but it worked. Then we easily found another log to cross Spruce creek and we were in the forested slopes with nowhere to go but up.

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Jayden crossing Agnes creek

All of a sudden, everything got really humid and the mosquitos were waiting for us. Going uphill with heavy packs didn't give us the opportunity to out pace those bugs. We felt like a slowly moving blood bank. After a while, we realized we weren't going to make high camp and opted to traverse left towards a creek at ~5000'. We needed water and a place to set camp for the fast approaching night. No really good flats spots were found but at least we had water and many mosquitos to keep us company.

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Jayden and I at camp, swatting mosquitos. (Paul's pic)

Just as it was almost completely dark, we heard some loud noises across the creek. With headlamps out, we spotted a bear. I made sure to put my ursack far from camp that night. We woke to the bugs waiting for us and a few drops of rain. At least we only had another 500' of gain to get out of the forest to start the traverse over towards our high camp. We aimed for the saddle between Pt 7070 and Pt 7458. There were several nice spots to set camp with a little running water not too far away. Since we made it there fairly early, I thought about giving Gunsight a shot. So, Jayden and I got ready and began hiking up the slopes towards Pt 7070 to see if the weather was going to actually be good enough for us to make an attempt. Just as we were crossing a low spot, a jet flew only a couple hundred feet over us. It appeared about the same time that we could hear it, then a few seconds later, another one buzzed us. It was too quick for me to take my camera out but Paul got a picture of them down the valley from camp.

a couple of low flying jets (Paul's pic)

As Jayden and I reached Pt 7070, it was obvious that a storm was coming in and we retreated back to camp.

Jayden with Agnes behind

Jayden and I heading up to 7070 (Paul's pic)

Since the day was still young and the storm was still a couple hours away, I headed over to the historic summit of Mt Asa. There were a lot of ups and downs on chossy slopes but I made it over to the far ridge and found the 1908 register.

Mt Asa

Agnes Mtn

Asa register

I made it back to camp and we all watched as the storm clouds started to build around the surrounding peaks. It would be an early dinner as we were forced inside the tent and Paul had to go in his bivy way before dark.

camp view

clouds building around Gunsight

That night was a mess for sure! Loud thunder and lightning crashes were really close. The wind was blowing hard as it seemed that the tent was almost sideways at times during the night. Paul and I wanted to get an early start for Agnes in the morning but the weather had us delayed by over 4 hours. Paul and I eventually started hiking while there was still a little precip falling from the sky. Our planned route would involve a traverse from our ridge camp to beneath a gully just beyond Pt 7458 and gain that saddle. From there, we dropped about 1000' into the Yew creek basin. Then a traverse over to the narrow snow couloir along side the steep SE wall of Agnes.

Paul dropping down from the 7200' col

the narrow couloir

lots of rock fall on the snow

the steep and impressive side of Agnes

Me headed up (Paul's pic)

As we were a couple hundred feet below the col, Paul noticed a nice ledge that got us off the steepening snow. The ledge is at the last larch tree in the coulior. We found a couple nice ramps and made our way over to the top of the snow but still 20 below the col. Paul used a few nifty moves up a slick loose gully while I put crampons on for the hard dirt ascent. At the col, we dropped a bit before making a rising traverse over towards the partially filled snow gully. The lower half without snow were many moving rocks, so once I reached the snow, I took it while Paul stayed on the right side of it for easy travel in the moat. Both worked fine as we neared the technical pitch of our climb. I slowly lead up the 5.6 chimney placing a couple pieces of pro. After Paul cleaned the route, he let me know that my second cam was placed 6 inches below a piton. Oh well, I felt focused:) Paul leaped frogged and scrambled up the rock to another anchor where I followed and left the rope. We scrambled the semi steep and loose slope to the summit and found the 1968 register. We saw many familiar names and enjoyed the improving weather. We did 1 rappel that was just enough to get down below the technical pitch.

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heading down Agnes (Paul's pic)

Paul on rappel

We both used Paul's moat descent back to the snow field as the clouds were still swarming around Gunsight.

Gunsight with the Chikamin glacier and Dome behind

Paul and I discussed several possible descent ideas back to camp and we decided on going towards Pt 7760 and possibly rappelling a couple of times to save on time and energy. As I went up and slightly over the point to look for a way that didn't look very good, Paul saw a ledge that might go. So we backtracked and found somewhat exposed areas with good enough holds to get us down with out any raps. A key, black ledge saved us much time.

the ledge below Pt 7760 that avoids any technical gear

Paul and the steep side of Agnes

Paul traversing the exposed ledges

Agnes

Once into easier terrain, we went slightly different ways down the light grey buttress, both were class 3 at the most. We reached camp and found Jayden fully recharged with a well deserved rest day. I talked with him about the last possible chance to be able to climb Gunsight in the morning if the weather allowed and he was all in and excited.

Jayden and Gunsight

a lenticular to the East

still lots of clouds but improving weather to the West

day 4 The last day or 2, I had been thinking I might not be able to even give Gunsight a shot due to the weather and Jayden not used to these big off trail trips. I was ok with bailing but when I told Jayden at 4:30am that the weather looked great, he was eager and ready to go for it and I was surprised. We quickly got going and headed up and down the ridge lines towards Gunsight. At the low saddle above Blue Lake, we filled a couple bottles of water and headed up the firm slopes to what I thought was the proper col. My mistake as I went one too far South and we went to what should have been the more obvious one. I was still skeptical that Jayden would want to continue on steep firm snow over to the Chikamin but I wanted him to at least get a look at Sinister and Dome Pks. That view was absolutely amazing!

looking at Gunsight from the wrong col

Once he got that view, he said he was good and ready to go and the slopes didn't bother him. I was already feeling pretty proud of him for dealing with the miserable buggy approach, getting to high camp and then have a great attitude for the toughest summit. We descended a couple hundred feet and traversed over towards the West face of Middle Gunsight. I had a few crampon issues and Jayden reached the climbing route first.

Gunsight Pks

I got the rope and rock pro out and Jayden put me on belay. The first pitch is the crux (5.6+) and it was wet and very slick, probably due to the heavy rain the day before. It took me much time to figure out a way up the slimy slab but it went to my excitement. Jayden easily followed and wondered what took me so long. I think that was probably the hardest move that I've ever done in the mountains. Anyways, after that, we scrambled up nice grippy slabs to the col between the North and Middle Pks. I found and traversed a ledge until I was underneath a chimney I spotted from down below. It was some easy 5th class moves to another rap anchor on the summit ridge. I belayed Jayden up and we were now an exposed ridge scramble to the summit.

Jayden climbing up the chimney

With the rope still out, Jayden belayed me while I headed for the tiny summit and then I brought him in. It was such a proud moment for me as my son touched one of the toughest and remote summits in our wonderful and scenic state.

Jayden on the summit ridge

Agnes from the summit

our summit shot

view over towards Glacier Pk

Sinister and Dome

We rappped 3 times, even at where we gained the first ledge because the snow was still firm. I was happy with the quick climb and we had plenty of time to make it to camp and pack up and move.

Jayden rappelling

Jayden at the start of our climbing ledge

Jayden and Blizzards Pks above

the ice falls of the Chikamin glacier

Blue lake

We reached the col and had great snow on the other side for a quick descent. We packed up camp and were gone by noon. I told Jayden that we still had a chance to catch the last shuttle at high bridge by 6:15 if we hurried. His motivation was dinner at the resturant if we made it. We found a message in the dirt from Paul saying that he went to Asa Pk before heading down the valley. As we headed down the mosquito filled slopes, it was another tough time dealing with slick duff and sticks. We made the log crossings and hit the PCT. We found Paul soaking his feet in Pass creek as we stopped for a few minutes to talk about our plans. We all wanted to get to Stehekin that night for beer and food, so jayden kept up his great pace and we made it to High bridge with time to spare! We ate a good dinner and camped in the overflow campground. We had a good breakfast the next day while waiting for our boat ride down the lake. It was such a great trip despite the iffy weather. Thanks to Paul for climbing Agnes with me and I'm so thankful that Jayden was so pumped to climb Gunsight. 37.25 miles 14800' elevation gain 4 days of hiking, while the 5th was spent waiting for the boat

[puzzlr]

You're really living up to your handle! Congrats on all three peaks. That steep snow couloir on Agnes burned itself into my memory. I don't remember almost anything else about the climb except how steep that was, especially coming down. It's cool you found a way not to do that. Did you happen to get photos of either register? In 1995 we planned a similar trip but with an exit including Gunsight, Sinister, Dome and out Downey Creek. We only got Asa and Agnes before weather confined us to a tent for a full day and then we bagged it by exiting north.

[Bootpathguy]

[bobbi]

omg ... Jayden is 19 years? unbelievable and I can feel the elation you had having him with you on the summit of gunsight. awesome summit photo! congratulations! you raised a climber

[raising3hikers]

[Fletcher]

Excellent work! Been looking forward to this report. Glad you got back there!

[cartman]

Great report and congrats to both of you on Gunsight, especially to Jayden--and getting it before turning 20! Might be a record for youngest person to ascend that peak. Everyone should bivy on a random slope sometime in their climbing career. Builds character. And butt calluses. I would love to see some pics of the Asa register if you can get them from Paul.

[iron]

i don't think i've seen so much rock scattered on seasonal snow before. looks pretty uniform. wonder if it's like that every year. really awesome trip. i've been wondering what you've been up to. now i know. good work for jayden. he's looking more and more like your spitting image.

[Gimpilator]

Wow, Eric. How wonderful to see such a detailed report from this most remote part of WA. I've looked at those peaks from Dome and Bannock. You know most of us will never qualify to go climb them. It's really inspiring to see Jayden and you do Gunsight together. He's becoming quite the badass. Weather, bugs, bears, brush, full meal deal.

[Distel32]

[RichP]

That's great your son joined you. I wonder if his peers realize how cool it is to go climbing with your dad?

[raising3hikers]

[Brushbuffalo]

Fabulous trip, Eric! You have every right to be proud of your son. quote="raising3hikers"]We felt like a slowly moving blood bank[/quote] That is classic! After several years of relatively bug- free conditions, they are making up for it everywhere this summer.

[cascadetraverser]

Way to go Eric, Jayden and Paul!! Looks like you got yourself a real chip off the block there R3H!! (soon to be boulder...) How bout that storm?? Happily by a fire at Upper Bath Lake (report to follow...) during all that...Took a few looks up toward Agnes when it came into our view to look for any moving things on the summit but no such luck

[puzzlr]

r3h - thanks for those photos. Klenke sent me photos of the Agnes register too (before you got there)