[Gimpilator]

Andy Boos invited me to join his climb of Mount Jefferson in Oregon. Many count Jefferson as the hardest volcano to climb in the northwest, if not the hardest peak in Oregon. The steep snow traverse is famous. But even more exciting was the fact that Andy would be finishing the Top 100 most prominent peaks in the Lower 48. This is a difficult list which very few have completed (see names at the bottom). July 8 The day before our hike we got a hotel in Detroit Oregon. There were a few hours of daylight so I picked something random on the map and went off solo to hike Bachelor Mountain. There was a nice view of Jefferson.

Three Fingered Jack, Broken Top, Three Sisters

Jefferson looking sexy

July 9 We hiked past Pamelia Lake, where the water didn’t look great for filtering, and then to the PCT. Southbound on the PCT we talked to a lot of northbound folk, but very few were doing the whole thing in a single push. At Shale Lake we found much better water and we set up camp there.

Shale Lake

There was plenty of time left in the afternoon, so I looked at the map and picked out a peak 3 miles away called North Cinder Peak. Sue and Sharon both wanted to join me, but Andy wanted to stay and scout the route for the next day, since we might start it in the dark. The more I talked to Sue and Sharon, the more it dawned on me just how accomplished these ladies are in the mountaineering realm.

Hunts and Hanks

We went further south on the PCT and soon had an amazing overlook of Hunts Lake and Hanks Lake. Then more PCT northbound traffic, everyone we met was in a great mood with the excellent weather. After passing below Cathedral Rocks, we came to a tarn below the north side of the peak.

North Cinder

The northeast ridge looked best on the map, so we went up that way. No register or cairn on the summit so we built one. Fantastic views of Jefferson and all the other volcanoes to the south.

Mount Washington looking scary

North Cinder summit

tomorrow

July 10 We started at 5am in a whiteout. I was thankful that Andy had scouted the route and knew exactly where we should go. That was his experience showing. He has done over 3000 trips over the years. We made our way through several meadows and then into a big basin with snow patches and talus at the bottom. We contoured the side slopes in loose sand to the head of the basin.

The next 3000 vertical feet was loose sand and scree and volcanic rocks. Once we reached the crest of the south ridge, the grade increased gradually, but it was very loose all the way to near Red Saddle. Right before the saddle, there were some rock formations on the crest with steep exposed snow on either side. We worked around the right side on mushy snow and class 3 rock. Bad runout.

At Red Saddle we geared up, lightened the load, and then we were doing the traverse. Over the years I had envisioned being terrified at this point, because everyone says it’s a death run-out, but with Andy protecting and everyone in the group being super calm and collected, it was actually a lot of fun and not scary.

The butterflies were thick in the air and this is a phenomenon I have seen several times on the Oregon volcanoes. We came to a sort of rib and the snow continued around the corner. We had to scramble over some rocks and then the snow continued all the way to the final scramble, which was partially melted out, but a little wet in places from rime ice.

Andy led up the rock which was mostly class 3 with exposure and set a fixed line. He ran out of rope before the top, so I used a klemheist loop and brought him the second rope. Another 20 vertical and he was holding up the ammo box register. Finished!

As the rest of us made our way up to him, he must have had several minutes to consider the completion of this project, which began in 1986 with an ascent of Three Fingers. He has done that peak every year since.

Andy Boos!

The last 20 feet was the most exposed of the entire route and snow along the way made it more difficult. Of course, with a fixed line, it was trivial. We celebrated with him on the summit and it was a very happy time, one of those rare fleeting moments in life. I’m so privileged to be able to be a part of it.

Jefferson summit

After the ropes were cleaned, Sharon led all the way back to the final steep traverse and then Andy took us back across, placing the pickets for a second time. From Red Saddle the east side snow slopes had softened and were were able to make better time descending several hundred feet.

We were back in camp with enough daylight to cook dinner and after 15 hours at work, we were all ready for some rest.

July 11 Hike out. Drive Home. Post Report. The 100 Most Prominent Peaks, USA Lower 48 States 1) Bob Bolton 2) Edward Earl 3) Duane Gililand 4) Grant Meyers 5) Andy Boos 5 or 6) Martin?

[Jake Robinson]

Nice report on a mountain that has intimidated me for a long time. Glad you guys had such a good group, camaraderie is so important Congrats to Andy!

[awilsondc]

From xuanxier's Jefferson report:

[Gimpilator]

Thank you. Under the conditions Steven had, no way. But the later you go in the summer, it seems to get easier.

[xuanxier]

Great work on this hard peak. I think having softer summer snow is much easier than dealing with icy rimy kind of condition in spring. Working on my TRs soon. Gonna take a while.

[raising3hikers]

thanks for the TR on Jefferson, didn't know it was so tough. I may have to look into climbing it someday

[John Morrow]

Wow, congrats to you all and Andy in particular. This is the first TR I've come across of Jefferson that makes it seem reasonable if comfortable with steep snow. Would anyone solo it I wonder? I don't think I ever made the connection before, but does Andy tele? I think Big Steve introduced us on Navaho and Esmeralda years ago when spring skiing the north sides of those. John